Climbs 22
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1022m a.s.l
Faces N

View Stats

Evening Glen Etive © johnhenderson

Crag features

A fine granite buttress high on Ben Cruachan with a magnificent outlook down Glen Etive towards Glencoe and Ben Nevis. The routes generally follow striking vertical cracklines and corners. They may be short (generally around 70 to 90m) although they still provide well protected, continuously sustained and technical routes. Most of the routes are snowed-up rock (a few of the harder lines require a build up of ice and neve), only requiring cold northerly winds and freezing levels down to 900m to come into condition making it an excellent early season winter venue. Must do routes include Toxic Brew IV,4, Tainted Elixir V,6 (made ever popular from Si Richardson's "Chasing the Ephemeral"), Dr.Noe VI,6 and Goldfinger VII,7.

Approach notes

Approximately 3 hours walk via the reservoir

Care needed traversing ridge from east to west. One path leads to sheer drop just before final ascent to summit of Cruachan. Keep south of rock slab to avoid this. Expect special care needed in snow as edge of drop could be corniced. (Drop is much more visible on west-east traverse.)
trafficfan - 13/Aug/12
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Ben Cruachan
2 Ben Cruachan summit
-
summit 270
3 North Ridge
-
I 1
  Coire Chat
5 East Gully I 11
6 Chatter Rib III 14
7 Toxic Brew IV 4 ** 23
8 Quickfire III 5
Climb name Grade
9 Tainted Elixir V 6 *** 32
10 Double Chaser V 6 * 7
11 Fat Lip Fandango VII 7 **  
12 In Cold Blood VII 7 **  
13 In the Knoe VI 6 ** 2
14 Goldfinger VII 7 *** 8
15 Dr Noe VI 6 ** 14
16 Pussy Galore VII 8 **  
Climb name Grade
17 Noe Gully II ** 6
18 Thunderbolt Chimney IV 5 * 5
19 Noe Buttress IV 4 * 5
20 Hats Off V 6  
21 Noe Buttress Direct VI 6 **  
22 Cooper Cleft IV 4 3
23 Yes Gully Left-hand IV 4  
24 Yes Gully Right-hand II  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer iainballantyne