Climbs 14
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 407m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

Lying at the southwest end of Loch Duntelchaig, this large crag has been 'looked at to death!' Despite the development done over the years at the nearby and more amenable Ashie Fort nothing happened. The nature of the rock and the lack of available protection put off most people. The essence of this outstanding crag lies in its height and in the rock type which is a hard conglomerate. It has very few cracks and little scope for natural protection. Coupled with the risk of the occasional 'popping' pebble it all adds up to possibly the most suitable crag for sport climbing in the entire country.

Seepage is only occasional but run off from the top overhangs can sometimes be a problem. The crag does not get much sun and the gully can sometimes be a wind funnel but at least that helps keep the midges at bay! Not the worst crag for midges but worth having a hood handy in case the breeze drops. All the routes have been equipped to a high standard and have in-situ lower-offs.



Approach notes

By car, coming from the south, turn off the A9 onto the B851 Strathnairn road. Follow this for a few miles until the obvious crag of Brin Rock is passed to the right of the road. About a mile further on a small road turns off to the right signed to Loch Ruthven. Follow this for about 3 miles, leaving behind the excellent Loch Ruthven boulder, before the crag becomes obvious after rounding the shoulder of the hill below the lone windmill. Carry on downhill for a further mile until parking is reached at the roadside directly below the crag.


No guides found for this crag

Visited the crag today and noticed two birds circling the crag and the nest near the routes. I don't have great bird knowledge, but possibly Peregrine? I've sent an email to the mcofs so would be worth keeping an eye on their website to see if it affects access to the crag this summer.
RAB623 - 13/May/15
Bird nesting has been absent for at least the last three years.
sheppy - 14/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Creag nan Clag summit
summit 4
2 Inverarnie Schwarzenegger 7a ** 59
3 Stone of Destiny 6c+ *** 182
4 Paralysis by Analysis 7a+ *** 82
5 There's Sand in My Pants 6c+ * 28
Climb name Grade
6 The Final Straw 7a ** 33
7 Eyeballs Out 7b+ *** 10
8 Giza Break 7b+ * 35
9 Death is a Gift 8a *** 12
10 Gift Link 8a *** 10
Climb name Grade
11 The Weakest Link 7c * 15
12 Ubuntu 8a *** 37
13 Two Humps Are Better Than One 6b * 43
14 Over the Hills and Farr Away 7a+ * 12

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer sheppy