Climbs 348
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 516m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Scott Mckensie © DuncanR

Crag features

The cliffs around the famous cascade of the Kinder Downfall are amongst the most dramatic on the moor, mainly because of the superb setting but also because it is the location of a fine set of routes, across a spread of grades, with many good offerings across the lower end of the grade spectrum.

The outcrops here tend to face between south and west and so get plenty of afternoon and evening sunshine. The shape of the valley tends to funnel westerly winds up towards the rim of the moor making climbing here a wild experience under these conditions and also turning the Kinder Downfall into the Kinder Upfall and showering unsuspecting passers-by on the moor behind.

Approach notes

Kinder Road leads from the village of Hayfield towards Kinder reservoir. A car park on the left at Bowden Bridge marks the furthest point at which cars are allowed to go. A 15 minute walk along the road allows a path to be taken around the left-hand side of the reservoir. This leads, after a further 15 minutes to the base of William Clough, from which a path can be seen heading straight up the hill on the other side of the stream.

On reaching the plateau, turn left for Mill Hill buttresses. Upper Western Buttress is obvious immediately to the right. Kinder Buttress is a further 10 minute walk: just past Upper Western Buttress at an old stone wall veer off the path and head downhill in the direction of a pile of boulders, the crag will eventually appear. Kinder Downfall is reached by continuing along the footpath eastwards.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Scrambles in the Dark Peak (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Walk in time is closer to 2 hours than 40 minutes. The climbs are generally steep and very traditional with an intimidating air about them. The rock is invariably green and lichenous even in a dry spell. Definitely not a climbing venue for the faint hearted. Nevertheless the setting is spectacular and very atmospheric and well worth a visit even if you don't get a lot of climbing done. Couple of half decent scrambles in the vicinity too.
Rylstone_Cowboy - 09/Oct/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Mill Hill Buttress
2 Ultra Left
-
VD 2
3 Outside Left
-
S 4a 6
4 Right Winger HVS 5b  
5 Inside Left
-
VS 4c 4
6 Inside Right
-
VS 5a * 1
7 Mill Hill Corner Climb/Outside Right
-
VD 2
8 Kilkenny Rib
-
HVS 5b *** 1
9 Mill Hill Crack/Pioneer's Crack VD 4
10 Pioneers' Slab
-
D 1
11 One Knows VS 4b  
12 Two Eyes
-
S 4b 1
13 Crescent Arête E1 5a  
14 Give it Up E4 6b *  
15 Crescent Wall
-
HVS 5a 1
16 Velleity
-
E3 5c  
17 Gregory's Flake
-
HS 4b 1
18 Trifle
-
S 4a 1
19 Yorick's Dilemma
-
HVS 5c  
  Square Buttress Area
21 Meander
-
VD  
22 Leander
-
D  
23 Word Gets Around
-
VS 4b  
24 Via Left-hand Finish
-
VD *  
25 Time Watch
-
E2 5b *  
26 The Eliminate
-
E2 5c *  
27 Square Buttress Crack
-
HVS 5a **  
28 Sheep in Situ
-
E2 5c  
29 Central Wall
-
S 4a  
30 Long Buttress Arête
-
S 4a 1
31 The Breathing Zone
-
VS 4b  
32 First Time
-
VS 4b  
33 Two Timer VD  
34 Kinder Climbing and the Sunshine's Banned
-
E5 6a *  
35 Twist
-
HVS 5a  
36 Poor Outlook
-
VD  
  Mill Hill Edge
38 Little Pixie
-
VS 5a  
39 Rapscallion
-
VS 5a  
40 Stepped Arête
-
VS 5a  
41 Monomania
-
HVS 5b  
42 Kinder Men Don't Eat Quiche
-
HVD  
43 Kronk Kronk Kronk
-
VS 4c  
44 Write on the Table
-
HVS 5b  
45 Left on the Shelf
-
HVS 5a  
46 Stuck in the Middle
-
HVS 5a  
  Chode Buttress
48 The Long and Winding Chode
-
D  
49 Chode Crack
-
HS 4b *  
50 Chode to Joy
-
E2 6a *  
51 Chode of Chode Hall
-
HS 4c  
52 Chodey Marsh
-
VS 5b  
  Wrinkly Buttress
54 Wrinkly Roof and Crack
-
HVS 5b *  
55 Wrinkly Buttress
-
VS 4c  
56 Chimney Reckons
-
D  
57 Hog Board
-
HS 4b  
58 Small Wrinkly Arête
-
VS 5a  
  Upper Western Buttresses
60 What Drugs've You Got?
-
VD  
61 Unravelling the Perfect Knot
-
E1 5c  
62 Geschichte
-
V3  
63 Klassenwusstein
-
V1  
64 Grundrisse
-
V2  
65 Wall and Rib
-
VD  
66 Snuff Buttress
-
VD  
67 Yellow Brick Road E2 6a *  
68 Minaret
-
E3 6a  
69 Lower Chimney Route
-
S 4a * 6
70 The Jolsen Finish VS 4b * 6
71 Pythagoras Crack
-
S 4a 1
72 Pythagoras Arête
-
HVS 4c  
73 Memphis
-
VS 4b  
74 Spike Chimney D ** 18
75 A Sticht in Time
-
E2 5b  
76 Disgust
-
VS 4b  
77 One in the Eye
-
E2 5c  
78 Right Hand Route
-
S 4a 2
79 Central Gully
-
S 4a  
80 Once in a Blue Moon E3 6a **  
81 Brightside E5 6b ** 2
82 The Dark Side of the Moon E3 5c *** 7
83 Extinguisher Chimney VS 4c *** 11
84 Candle Buttress HVS 5a * 14
85 The Atrocity Exhibition E1 5b *  
86 Leaf Shelf VS 4c 9
87 Intermediate Route HS 4b 10
88 South Wall VD ** 54
89 Dirty Reptile
-
HVS 4c  
90 Pedestal Climb D * 18
91 45 Degrees HVS 5b 3
92 Curving Crack S 4b 15
93 Rock Reptile HVS 5b  
94 Singer Corner S 4b 8
95 M.G. Route HS 4a 12
96 Magic Monkey
-
E1 5c *  
97 Monkey Magic HVS 5b * 1
98 Esgee Crack S 4b 3
99 The Funnel HS 4b 2
100 Eastern Promise HVS 5b  
101 Eastern Crack S 4a * 21
102 Eastern Arête HVS 5b  
103 End Wall VS 4c * 11
104 Far End Flakes VD 1
  Lower Western Buttresses
106 October Groove
-
VD 4
107 October Flakes
-
VD 3
108 October Front
-
D 3
109 Miser
-
D 3
110 Cake
-
VD 2
111 The Niche
-
S 4a * 2
112 Big Vee
-
D 3
  Kinder Buttress
114 Skittle Crack
-
VS 5a  
115 Skittle Rock
-
VS 4c  
116 Never Work
-
V3  
117 The Butcher Bird
-
S 4b  
118 Ringed Feet
-
E1 5c  
119 West Wall Climb
-
HVS 5a *  
120 Foreigner E3 5c *  
121 Moron's Stunt
-
S  
122 The Mermaid's Ridge VS 4c *** 60
123 Glory Boys VS 4c  
Climb name Grade
124 Left Twin Chimney VS 4c ** 4
125 Pumping Irony E3 5c *  
126 Right Twin Chimney HVS 5a ** 1
127 Semi
-
E5 6b **  
128 Final Judgement E3 5c *** 3
129 Blessed are the Interplanetary One
-
E5 6a *  
130 Boulevard Traverse HS 4a 1
131 Neptune
-
HVS 5a  
132 Atone E1 5b  
133 Jinny
-
VS 4b  
134 The Ring
-
HVS 5b  
135 Unnamed
-
HVS 5b *  
136 Siren's Wall
-
E1 5b * 1
137 Annexe Chimney
-
S 4a  
138 Annexe Crack
-
VS 4c *  
  Mermaid Gully
140 Mermaid Gully (Summer) 1 3
141 Mermaid Gully (Winter) I 1
  Path Side Buttresses
143 Left-hand Crack D 2
144 Right-hand Crack VD 1
145 Finger in the Volcano
-
E1 5b ** 2
146 The Bud Samaritan E2 6a *  
147 AT Arête
-
E1 5c  
148 Front Face
-
VD 3
149 Cleft Route
-
D * 2
150 Shallow Crack
-
HS 4c  
151 Little Buttress Roof
-
E1 5b  
152 Little Buttress
-
HVS 5a  
153 Little Buttress Route 3
-
VS 5a  
154 Little Buttress Route 4
-
VD  
155 Greater Than
-
S 4a  
156 The World in the Evening
-
E3 6a **  
157 The World was Silent When We Died
-
HVS 5b  
  Two Tier Area
159 Irrational Fear
-
HVS 5b  
160 Time for an Epic
-
HVS 5b  
161 Hurry Crack
-
HVS 5a  
162 A Sign of the Times
-
E3 6b **  
163 Slanting Crack
-
VS 5a  
164 Magnetic Moments
-
E5 6b *  
165 Loose Block Arête
-
HS  
166 Camel Ride
-
HVS 5a  
167 The Squeeze
-
VS 4b  
168 Classic
-
VD * 4
169 Royal
-
HVD 3
170 Royal Tower
-
HVS 5b *  
171 Summer Fruits
-
E2 5b  
172 Dubris
-
HS 4a *  
173 Autumn Chimney
-
VD  
174 Fungi To Be With
-
HVS 5c  
175 Mushroom Rib
-
HS 4b  
176 Metaphysical Subtleties
-
VD  
177 Theological Niceties
-
HS 4b  
178 Dinosaur's Head
-
VD  
179 Niche Arête
-
S 4b  
180 Incut Wall
-
VS 4c  
181 Don't Rush Me
-
HS 4b  
182 Old Peculiar
-
VS 4c  
183 Tea Boy
-
VS 4c  
184 Eyeball Wall
-
HVS 5b  
185 Suprise, Suprise
-
E1 5a * 2
186 Cilla Black
-
E1 5b  
187 Not So Suprising
-
VS 4c  
188 Friend's Arête
-
E1 5b  
189 Heaven Sent
-
E3 6a ** 2
190 Moac Crack
-
E1 5b *  
191 Block Buttress Chimney
-
VD 1
192 Squeeky Bottom
-
E1 5c  
193 Withering Arms
-
E4 6b *  
194 Arthritic Ankles
-
S 4a  
195 Evil Crack
-
VS 4c  
196 Writer's Block
-
E2 5c *  
197 Chant of a Poor Man
-
HVS 5a  
  The Amphitheatre
199 The Owl of Minerva
-
S 4b  
200 Yellow Roses
-
HVS 5b  
201 Belial
-
VS 4c * 1
202 The Buxworth Vulture
-
E1 6a  
203 Wild Horses
-
E1 5b  
204 Italian Stallion
-
E2 5b **  
205 Monkeys Only
-
E5 6a * 1
206 Oddity
-
HVS 5b  
207 The Glossop Gelding
-
E4 5c  
208 Minstrel Crack
-
HVS 5a  
209 Double Six
-
E1 5b *  
210 Domino Wall E1 5b * 4
211 Daredevil
-
E3 5c  
212 The Ledge Shufflers E6 6c **  
213 Raggald's Wall E1 5a ** 11
214 Great Chimney Left-hand VS 4c ** 4
215 The Great Chimney HS 4b ** 42
216 Sorry Lads
-
HVS 5a  
217 The Ensemble Exit HVS 5a ** 4
218 Loose Control E8 6c ***  
219 Professor' Chimney D * 21
220 Professor's Chimney Direct VD * 8
221 Aerobics in Bondage
-
E3 6a *  
222 Pegasus Left-hand E1 5b *  
223 Pegasus Right-hand VS 4c * 2
224 Left Fork Chimney D * 31
225 Nerther Nor
-
HVS 5b  
226 Right Fork Chimney S 4a * 12
227 Embarkation Parade VS 4c * 2
228 Final Frontier E2 5b  
229 Crooked Overhang VS 4c 2
230 Crooked Arête HVS 5a * 4
231 Rodeo VS 4c * 9
232 Zig-zag VD *** 150
233 Zig-zag Crack S 4a * 10
234 Spin-up E1 5b * 2
235 Toss Up HVS 5a 1
236 Chockstone Chimney VD * 38
237 The Last Fling E2 5b * 5
238 Amphitheatre Crack S 4b * 3
239 Amphitheatre Face Climb HS 4b * 13
240 Five Ten HS 4a 4
241 Playtime
-
S 2
242 Square Chimney M 13
243 Square Chimney (Summer) 3 10
244 Square Chimney (Winter) III * 4
245 A Little Bit Mooreish
-
E1 5c *  
246 When the Wind Blows
-
HVS 5b *  
Climb name Grade
247 No Surprises, Please
-
E1 5b  
248 Seclusion
-
HS 4b  
249 Dribble
-
VS 4c  
250 Drabble
-
VS 4c  
  Kinder Downfall
252 Germination
-
VS 5a  
253 Damnation
-
HVS 5a  
254 Hibernation
-
E2 5b * 1
255 Termination Rib
-
HVS 5b * 1
256 Extermination
-
HVS 5b  
257 Terminal
-
E2 6a  
258 Wombat Wall
-
VS 4c  
259 My Part in his Downfall E6 6c * 1
260 North Tier Climb VS 4c * 2
261 Grotter's Gully
-
VS 5a  
262 Stuck in a Groove E2 5c * 2
263 Dud Chimney E1 5a  
264 Slip Sliding Away E3 5c  
265 The Glorious Twelfth E2 5b 1
266 The Hunter E3 5b * 1
267 The Beast E2 5b 1
268 The Bloody Thirteenth E1 5b * 4
269 Shotgun Grooves HVS 5b * 2
270 The Gamekeeper E5 6b * 2
271 Poacher's Crack HVS 5a * 10
272 Downfall Groove HVS 5a *  
273 Independence Crack E2 5c * 2
274 Hard Times E2 5c * 1
275 Downfall Climb M ** 80
  Winter Routes
277 The Direct IV ** 50
278 Central Direct III * 72
279 Downfall Climb II/III ** 196
280 Right Corner IV 4 1
281 Right Wall Route VI 6 1
  The South Tiers
283 Downfall South Corner VD ** 23
284 Handbag not Sandbag
-
HVS 5a  
285 Harvest HVS 5a *  
286 Pisces
-
HVS 5a  
287 East Buttress
-
VS 4b  
288 Eastern Chimney
-
S 4a  
289 Loop de Loop
-
VS 4c  
290 Loop the Loop Direct Finish
-
HVS 5a  
291 Quando
-
VS 4b  
292 The Slab
-
VS 4c *  
293 The Slab Direct
-
HVS 5a  
294 Poker
-
S 4a  
295 The Shelf
-
HVS 5a  
296 Whist
-
VS 4c *  
297 One for the Road
-
E4 5c  
298 Pathfinders Destination
-
E1 5b *  
299 Rummy
-
S  
300 Twopenny Tube Buttress
-
S 4a  
301 Two Penny Tube
-
VD ** 1
302 Dollar Buttress
-
HVS 5a  
  Great Buttress
304 Tributary Crack
-
HS 4b  
305 Recess Route
-
VD  
306 Pezulu
-
VD  
307 Wall and Rib
-
HS  
308 Central Chimney D * 3
309 Central Chimney Direct VS 4c  
310 Pillar Route
-
HS 1
311 Don't Look Back HVS 5a ** 1
312 In Anger Finish
-
E1 5b *  
313 Gomorrah VS 4c *  
314 The Go Between
-
E1 5b  
315 Sodom VD 1
316 Saint's Wall
-
HVS 4c *  
317 Trio Wall VS 4c * 2
318 Pigeon Corner VS 4c  
319 Pocket Wall VS 4c * 5
320 Flake Climb
-
HS 4b * 1
321 Bolster Chimney
-
S  
322 The Gallows
-
E3 6a *  
323 Crescendo Crack
-
HS 4b  
324 Great Slab S 4a 8
325 Arpeggio Arête
-
S 4a  
326 The Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c *  
327 Arpeggio Gully (Summer)
-
3 *** 31
328 Arpeggio Gully (Winter)
-
II/III ** 8
329 Gehenna
-
D  
330 Hair of the Dog
-
HVS 5b  
331 Hangover Corner
-
HS 4b  
332 Duncan Disorderly
-
VS 4c  
  Grin and Bear It
334 Double Quick
-
VS 4c  
335 Treble Time
-
D 1
336 Charango
-
E1 5b *  
337 Room to Rome
-
HVS 5a  
338 Refuse to Lose
-
VS 4c  
339 Hamster Damaged
-
E1 6a *  
340 Grin and Bear It
-
VS 4c  
341 Entombed
-
HVD 1
342 Birch Vale 6a
-
E1 5b *  
343 Fragments of Freedom
-
VS 5a  
344 Silent Seasons
-
VS 4b  
345 Time Machine
-
VS 4b  
346 Disguise in Love
-
HVS 5b  
347 Sir Plumb
-
HVS 5b  
348 Asian Travellers
-
VS 4c  
349 Constrictor
-
VS 5a  
350 Robert the Bruce
-
HVS 5b  
351 Bob the Builder
-
S 4c * 2
  Near Red Brook
353 Last Fling
-
VS 4c  
354 Lost Without Trace
-
HVS 5a  
355 Ambulance Brigade
-
E1 5b  
356 Sunshine Cracks
-
VS 4c  
357 Lassewe
-
VS 4c  
358 Kinderman
-
E1 5c  
359 Respect My Authority
-
VS 5a  
360 Comic Relief
-
HVS 5b  
361 Wysecrack
-
HVS 5b  
362 The Long Arm of the Law
-
HVS 5a  
363 Justice is Served
-
D 4a 1
  Red Brook
365 Red Brook (Summer) 1 ** 40
366 Red Brook (Winter) I ** 24
367 Red Brook Arête
-
E3 6a *  

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