UKC

Climbs 256
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 564m a.s.l
Faces W

Scott Mckensie © DuncanR

Crag features

Rough, well-weathered buttresses in an amphitheatre containing the famous Downfall. Sandy, wet and green a good part of the year. Worth a visit in summer (particularly mid week - less Pennine Wayers!). Routes of all grades up to 25m high, in an easily accessible, but seemingly remote location. Classics are Zig Zag Climb (VD), The Mermaid's Ridge (30m! HS 4b,4c), The Great Chmney (HS 4b), Extinguisher Chimney (VS 4c), The Dark Side of the Moon (E3 5c) and The Gallows (E3 6a).

Approach notes

From Hayfield (SK 037868) follow the road towards Kinder Reservoir to parking (SK 048868). Continue along the road past the LHS of the reservoir and a well-used path leading up to the LHS of the amphitheatre (40min).

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Scrambles in the Dark Peak (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Walk in time is closer to 2 hours than 40 minutes. The climbs are generally steep and very traditional with an intimidating air about them. The rock is invariably green and lichenous even in a dry spell. Definitely not a climbing venue for the faint hearted. Nevertheless the setting is spectacular and very atmospheric and well worth a visit even if you don't get a lot of climbing done. Couple of half decent scrambles in the vicinity too.
Gerry_Doncaster - 09/Oct/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Mill Hill
2 Ultra Left
-
VD 2
3 Outside Left
-
S 4a 4
4 Right Winger HVS 5b  
5 Inside Left
-
VS 4c 3
6 Inside Right
-
VS 5a * 1
7 Mill Hill Corner Climb/Outside Right
-
VD  
8 Kilkenny Rib
-
HVS 5b *** 1
9 Mill Hill Crack/Pioneer's Crack VD 2
10 Pioneers' Slab
-
D 1
11 One Knows VS 4b  
12 Two Eyes
-
S 4b  
13 Give it Up E4 6b *  
14 Crescent ArĂȘte E1 5a  
15 Crescent Wall
-
HVS 5a  
16 Velleity
-
E3 5c  
17 Gregory's Flake
-
HS 4b  
18 Trifle
-
S 4a  
19 Yorick's Dilemma
-
HVS 5c  
  Square Buttress Area
21 Meander
-
VD  
22 Leander
-
D  
23 Via Left Hand Finish
-
VD *  
24 Timewatch
-
E2 5b *  
25 The Eliminate
-
E2 5c *  
26 Square Buttress Crack
-
HVS 5a **  
27 Sheep in Situ
-
E2 5c  
28 Central Wall
-
S 4a  
29 Long Buttress Arete
-
S 4a  
30 First Time
-
VS 4b  
31 Two Timer VD  
32 Twist
-
HVS 5a  
33 Poor Outlook
-
VD  
  Upper Western Buttresses
35 Wall and Rib
-
VD  
36 Snuff Buttress
-
VD  
37 Lower Chimney Route
-
S 4a, 4a * 4
38 Jolsen Finish VS 4b * 4
39 Pythagoras crack
-
S 4a 1
40 Pythagoras ArĂȘte
-
HVS 4c  
41 Memphis
-
VS 4b  
42 Spike Chimney D ** 14
43 A Sticht in Time
-
E2 5b  
44 Disgust
-
VS 4b  
45 One in the Eye
-
E2 5c  
46 Right Hand Route
-
S 4a 2
47 Central Gully
-
S 4a  
48 Brightside E5 6b ** 1
49 Once in a Blue Moon E3 6a **  
50 The Dark Side of the Moon E3 5c *** 7
51 Extinguisher Chimney VS 4c *** 7
52 Candle Buttress HVS 5a * 12
53 Leaf Shelf VS 4c 6
54 Intermediate Route HS 4b 8
55 South Wall VD ** 42
56 Pedestal Climb D * 15
57 45 Degrees HVS 5b 3
58 Curving Crack S 4b 12
59 Rock Reptile HVS 5b  
60 Singer Corner S 4b 6
61 M.G. Route HS 4a 7
62 Magic Monkey
-
E1 5c *  
63 Monkey Magic HVS 5b *  
64 Esgee Crack S 4b  
65 The Funnel HS 4b  
66 Eastern Promise HVS 5b  
67 Eastern Crack S 4a * 17
68 Eastern Arete HVS 5b  
69 End Wall VS 4c * 9
70 Yellow Brick Road E2 6a *  
71 The Atrocity Exhibition E1 5b *  
  Lower Western Buttresses
73 October Groove
-
VD 4
74 October Flakes
-
VD 3
75 October Front
-
VD 3
76 Miser
-
D 3
77 Cake
-
VD 2
78 The Niche
-
S 4a * 2
79 Big Vee
-
D 3
  Kinder Buttress
81 West Wall Climb
-
HVS 5a *  
82 Foreigner E3 5c *  
83 The Mermaid's Ridge VS 4c *** 45
84 Mermaids Ridge alt. start (Moron's Stunt)
-
S  
85 Glory Boys VS 4c  
86 Left Twin Chimney VS 4c ** 4
87 Pumping Irony E3 5c *  
88 Right Twin Chimney HVS 5a **  
89 Semi E5 6b **  
90 Final Judgement E3 5c *** 3
91 Blessed are the Interplanetary One
-
E5 6a *  
Climb name Grade
92 Boulevard Traverse HS 4a 1
93 Neptune
-
HVS 5a  
94 Atone E1 5b  
95 Jinny
-
VS 4b  
96 The Ring
-
HVS 5b  
97 Unnamed
-
HVS 5b *  
98 Siren's Wall
-
E1 5b  
99 Annexe Chimney
-
S 4a  
100 Annexe Crack
-
VS 4c *  
  Path Side Buttress
102 Finger in the Volcano
-
E1 5b ** 1
103 The Bud Samaritan E2 6a *  
104 AT Arete
-
E1 5c  
105 Front Face
-
VD 3
106 Cleft Route
-
D * 1
107 Shallow Crack
-
HS 4c  
108 Little Buttress Roof
-
E1 5b  
109 Little Buttress
-
M  
110 Little Buttress Route 3
-
VS 5a  
111 Little Buttress Route 4
-
VD  
112 Greater Than
-
S 4a  
113 The World in the Evening
-
E3 6a **  
114 The World was Silent When We Died
-
HVS 5b  
  ---------- The Amphitheatre Area ----------
  Two Tier Area
117 Time for an Epic
-
HVS 5b  
118 Hurry Crack
-
VS 5a  
119 Sign of the Times
-
E3 6b **  
120 Slanting Crack
-
VS 5a  
121 Loose Block Arete
-
HS  
122 Camel Ride
-
HVS 5a  
123 The Squeeze
-
VS 4c  
124 Classic
-
VD 3
125 Royal
-
HVD 3
126 Royal Tower
-
VS 5a  
127 Dubris
-
HS 4a  
128 Autumn Chimney
-
VD  
129 Mushroom Rib
-
HS 4a  
130 Niche Arete
-
VS 4b  
131 Incut Wall
-
HS 4a  
132 Suprise, Suprise
-
E1 5a * 2
133 Not So Suprising
-
VS 4c  
134 Friends Arete
-
E1 5b  
135 Heaven sent
-
E3 6a ** 2
136 Moac Crack
-
E1 5b *  
137 Block Buttress Chimney
-
VD  
138 Withering Arms
-
E3 6a *  
  The Amphitheatre
140 Belial
-
VS 4c * 1
141 Wild Horses
-
E1 5b  
142 Italian Stallion
-
E2 5b **  
143 Monkeys Only
-
E5 6a * 1
144 Oddity
-
HVS 5b  
145 Minstrel Crack
-
VS 4c  
146 Domino Wall E1 5b * 4
147 The Ledge Shufflers E6 6c **  
148 Raggald's Wall E1 5a ** 11
149 Great Chimney Left-hand VS 4c ** 1
150 The Great Chimney HS 4b ** 30
151 The Ensemble Exit HVS 5a ** 4
152 Loose Control E8 6c ***  
153 Sorry Lads
-
HVS 5a  
154 Professor' Chimney D * 18
155 Professor's Chimney Direct VD * 6
156 Pegasus Left-hand E1 5b *  
157 Pegasus Right-hand VS 4c * 2
158 Left Fork Chimney D * 23
159 Right Fork Chimney S 4a * 7
160 Embarkation Parade VS 4c * 2
161 Final Frontier E2 5b  
162 Crooked Overhang VS 4c 2
163 Crooked Arete HVS 5a * 4
164 Rodeo VS 4c * 5
165 Zigzag VD *** 118
166 Zigzag Crack S 4a * 10
167 Spin-up E1 5b * 2
168 Toss up HVS 5a 1
169 Chockstone Chimney VD * 28
170 The Last Fling E2 5b * 5
171 Amphitheatre Crack S 4b * 1
172 Amphitheatre Face Climb HS 4b * 6
173 Five Ten HS 4a 4
174 Playtime S 1
175 Square Chimney M 10
176 Dribble
-
VS 4c  
177 Drabble
-
VS 5a  
  Kinder Downfall
179 Germination
-
VS 4c  
180 Hibernation
-
E2 5c 1
181 Termination Rib
-
HVS 5b * 1
182 Terminal
-
E2 6a  
Climb name Grade
183 Wombat Wall VS 4c  
184 My Part in his Downfall E6 6c * 1
185 North Tier Climb VS 4c * 2
186 Grotter's Gully
-
VS 5a  
187 Stuck In A Groove E2 5c 2
188 Dud Chimney E1 5a  
189 Slip Sliding Away E3 5c  
190 The Glorious Twelfth E2 5b 1
191 The Hunter E3 5b * 1
192 The Beast E2 5b 1
193 The Bloody Thirteenth E1 5b * 4
194 Shotgun Grooves HVS 5b * 1
195 Poacher's Crack HVS 5a * 6
196 Downfall Groove HVS 5a *  
197 The Gamekeeper E5 6b * 2
198 Independence Crack E2 5c * 2
199 Hard Times E2 5c * 1
200 Downfall Climb M ** 59
  The South Tiers
202 Downfall South Corner VD ** 15
203 Harvest HVS 5a *  
204 Two Penny Tube
-
VD ** 1
  Great Buttress
206 Trbutary Crack
-
HS 4b  
207 Recess Route
-
VD  
208 Pezulu
-
VD  
209 Wall and Rib (Great Buttress)
-
HS  
210 Central Chimney D * 1
211 Central Chimney Direct VS 4c  
212 Pillar Route
-
HS  
213 Don't Look Back HVS 5a ** 1
214 In Anger Finish
-
E1 5b *  
215 Gomorrah VS 4c *  
216 The Go Between
-
E1 5b  
217 Sodom VD 1
218 Saint's Wall
-
HVS 4c *  
219 Trio Wall VS 4c * 2
220 Pigeon Corner VS 4c  
221 Pocket Wall VS 4c * 3
222 Flake Climb
-
HS 4b * 1
223 Bolster Chimney
-
S  
224 The Gallows
-
E3 6a *  
225 Crescendo Crack
-
HS 4b  
226 Great Slab S 4a 4
227 Arpeggio Arete
-
S 4a  
228 The Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c *  
  Grin and Bear It
230 Double Quick
-
VS 4c  
231 Treble Time
-
D 1
232 Charango
-
E1 5b *  
233 Room to Rome
-
HVS 5a  
234 Refuse to Lose
-
VS 4c  
235 Hamster Damaged
-
E1 6a *  
236 Grin and Bear It
-
VS 4c  
237 Entombed
-
HVD 1
238 Birch Vale 6a
-
E1 5b *  
239 Fragments of Freedom
-
VS 5a  
240 Silent Seasons
-
VS 4b  
241 Time Machine
-
VS 4b  
242 Disguise in Love
-
HVS 5b  
243 Asian Travellers
-
VS 4c  
244 Sir Plumb
-
HVS 5b  
245 Constrictor
-
VS 5a  
246 Robert the Bruce
-
HVS 5b  
247 Bob the Builder
-
S 4c * 1
  Near Red Brook
249 Last Fling
-
VS 4c  
250 Lost Without Trace
-
HVS 5a  
251 Ambulance Brigade
-
E1 5b  
252 Sunshine Cracks
-
VS 4c  
253 Lassewe
-
VS 4c  
254 Kinderman
-
E1 5c  
255 Respect My Authority
-
VS 5a  
256 Comic Relief
-
HVS 5b  
257 Wysecrack
-
HVS 5b  
258 The Long Arm of the Law
-
HVS 5a  
259 Justice is Served
-
D 4a 1
  Winter Routes
261 The Direct IV ** 44
262 Central Direct III * 53
263 Downfall Climb II/III ** 109
264 Mermaid Gully (Winter) I 1
265 Square Chimney Exit III * 3
266 Red Brook (winter) I ** 17
267 Arpeggio Gully (Winter) II/III ** 6
  Scrambles - Downfall Area
269 Mermaid Gully (Summer) 1 2
270 Square Chimney Exit 3 2
271 Arpeggio Gully (summer) 3 *** 21
272 Red Brook (summer) 1 ** 23
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