Climbs 39
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 799m a.s.l
Faces all

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Glen Rosa and Cìr Mhòr © G. Robertson

Crag features

The summit of Cir Mhor sports the Rosa Pinnacle. A beautiful pointy jumble of rocks which form a pyramid atop the peak. On the North Face of the mountain, overlooking Glen Sannox there are a number of broken slabs and terraces - this facet of the mountain gets little sunshine and the lines are of poorer quality than the Southern aspects. The Southerly aspect overlooks Glen Rosa. It is complex and divided into five areas separated by grassy gullies and The Terrace:

Sub Rosa Gully is the steep grassy gully that runs underneath Upper and Lower East Face. It can be descended to reach the climbs or ascended with care from the bottom. Not a reccommended descent route from Cir Mhor, hazardous when wet!

The Prow is the fin-like pinnacle of rock at the top of South Ridge. It casts a shadow over Upper East Face in the afternoon.

The Terrace is a wide grassy ledge that slopes down from the shoulder of Cir Mhor, across the top of the west face (underneath The Prow etc) to meet South Ridge. Routes on the west face either end here or on South Ridge where the going is VDiff. You can walk off/onto The Terrace from Cir Mhor.

Caliban's Buttress lies to the west of the main rock mass and joins it just below the terrace on the western flank of Cir Mhor. The Upper East Face faces SE and is bounded on the left by th obvious fault line of Old East (VDiff). To the right of Old East is a large monolithic wall. This face catches the sun for most of the morning but will be in shadow from about 1pm when the sun goes behind The Prow The Lower East Face faces SE and is bounded on the right by Old East. There are chossy, grassy slabs at the bottom as well as a well defined corner which give access to South Ridge. South Ridge is the ridge down the centre of the rock mass. It has some beautiful VS pitches at the bottom and is generally VDiff near the top. The West Face holds the cleanest, longest slab routes on Cir Mhor as well as some nice roofs/overhangs. There are prominent groove lines and the face captures the sun from about 11am until sunset.

Approach notes

Park considerately in the bay past the Glen Rosa campsite. Follow the track by the river until you cross a footbridge. At this point, walk straight on, following the track toward the head of the valley. Where the path forks, take the left-hand track uphill toward the foot of the butress. 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Cir Mhor summit
-
summit 119
  Northeast Face
3 B1 Gully III 1
4 B2C Rib
-
VD 4
5 B2C Direct HS 1
6 Pans Pipe III 3 1
7 Naismith and Hakett-Smiths Route II *** 1
8 Bells Groove III 2
9 Once in a Lifetime IV ***  
10 Pinnacle Ridge III 3  
11 Bypass Route II * 1
12 Western Stoneshoot
-
II * 1
  South Face
14 Caliban's Creep VD ** 81
Climb name Grade
15 Fourth Wall
-
S 20
16 Artic Way
-
VS 4c ** 20
17 Sou'wester Slabs VD ** 456
18 South Sou'wester Slabs
-
S 4b * 21
19 Sickle
-
HVS 5a ** 10
20 Vanishing Point
-
E4 6a ** 3
21 West Flank Route
-
E1 5b *** 93
22 Hammer
-
VS 4c * 28
23 Anvil HVS 5a ** 3
24 Insertion
-
E4 5c ** 7
25 Anvil (Recess Start)
-
HVS 5a *** 30
26 South Ridge Direct VS 5a *** 490
27 South Ridge Original VS ** 5
28 Fraser's Variation VS 4c * 3
Climb name Grade
29 Ariel's ArĂȘte (a.k.a. Squids and Elephants) E1 5b *** 12
30 Hardland E4 6a *** 5
31 Bluff E2 5c *  
32 Skydiver E3 6a *** 17
33 Minotaur
-
E1 5a 2
34 The Sleeping Crack
-
E6 6b ***  
35 Labyrinth VD ** 81
36 The Rosetta Stone VS 5a ** 54
37 Labyrinth Direct Finish VS 4b ** 28
38 Stone rosa HVS 5b 1
39 Prospero's Prelude M * 46
40 Prosperos Peril S 4b * 12
41 Easter Route
-
HVS 5a ** 4

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