Climbs 142
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 101m a.s.l
Faces S

Pleasley Vale, the perfect training venue! © sfletch

Crag features

Sheltered by trees therefore shaded in summer, and can be warmer in winter.

Approach notes

Drive into Mansfield and follow signs for Mansfield Woodhouse. After a narrow bridge go left (Station Rd). Turn left into Vale Road (not well signposted). Straight on under the bridge, continue until you see a row of stone houses and then branch off to the right (signposted St. Chad's church) continue until the end of the road where you will find the church and a muddy area (in front of a gate) where you can park cars. Go over the bridge, go right following the boundary of the garden through the gate, continue on the footpath for a minute or two and through the trees you will see the first crag on the left hand side (with easier climbs) and then a minute or two later another (bigger) crag.

Strictly speaking this crag's in Derbyshire- the River Meden, crossed on the approach, is the county boundary.
cheque - 07/Jul/15
I wrote the guide to Pleasley Vale and had the topo's drawn which I still have, if any one is interested.
David Dicks - 26/Dec/14
Can anyone share a route/topo guide for Pleasley Vale? I've tried to get a old copy of peak climbs off fleaBay but no joy so far.
Knot-Paul - 18/Jun/13
For anyone who is interested? A Video including Frogger 7b+ish. A fairly obvious eliminate slap on Frog Buttress and The Pinch Super Direct 7c. Can be found here https://vimeo.com/62161252
Dolph - 19/Mar/13
Just come across this site.I think that J.Bradley ,P.Baker and I were probably the first to produce a guide to climbs at Pleasley Vale in summer 1948.We had to remove (perhaps illegally) lots of ivy.Our guide has 20 named climbs in it.
Eric Richardson - 13/Feb/13
the path that leads to the crag. is up for closure as been climbing there today. we need to phone the number on the post were the concrete arched block is.far end.we must keep the path open.no more climbing what a shame that would be. robert oakton.
robert oakton - 11/Jul/12
The boulder problems don't seem to be listed here, but you can find a guide with pictures here: http://issuu.com/niallgrimes/docs/boulder_britain_issuu/search?q=pleasely+vale
chriskourpas - 26/May/12
Pleasant location and worthwhile for some undisturbed soloing and bouldering. Some of the rock feels pretty polished - probably more by nature than by human as this ain't a place that sees much traffic. Some of the blocks feel pretty wobbly, especially on Sewer Turn!
samuel_w - 04/Apr/11
Glad to see DerwentDiluted has sorted out the order of the climbs and the new ones, great work!
Rhythm24 - 10/Dec/09
underated! great for training, unlimited variations of routes at all grades.
BJQ - 29/Nov/07
But dont quote me on that.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I think the stone is Magnesium Rich limestone.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I remember climbing there in the late '60's - amazed to see it has become so famous!
Howard Cobb - 26/Jul/06
If 'Pleasley Vale Activity Centre' have the barriers down just say your going there if its open, or say your going to/picking someone up from the crag these both normally work.
Eddie1234 - 20/Jul/06
This is not a crag to travel to from any great distance as its not worth it. However if you live close to Mansfield its worth an evening. There is an overhang area, the rock under which can be used for traversing and training and one or two easier climbs for beginners.The rock is quite unusual and I think is known locally as Mansfield Stone ( Southwell Minster is made out of it). There is quite a good and strenuous VS in the middle of the crag, but the rock is slightly suspect so its quite a necky lead at the grade. Worth a visit with a couple of beginners which is what I have used the crag for on a summers afternoon. But Birchens is only 25 minutes away from Pleasley Vale. You may have to access the crag from the Mansfield Woodhouse end of the vale as the security guy at Pleasly Vale Mills may not let you through as the road is private.
Marcus Tierney - 13/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Girdle Traverse
2 Girdle Traverse none 1
  Frog Buttress
4 Cub Climb
-
M 34
5 Scout Crack
-
S 4a 23
6 Scout Wall
-
E2 6a ** 1
7 Fear Of Flying
-
HVS 5c 5
8 V.T.O
-
HVS 5c 5
9 V.T.O Start V1 36
10 Frog Pop, Frog Buttress. f6A * 1
11 Frogger f7B 4
12 Grounded
-
E2 6a 10
13 Grounded Start V2 5c * 44
14 Scrambled
-
E1 5c ** 10
15 Scrambled Start V2 5c 39
16 Ceiling Zero
-
E3 6a ** 4
17 Ceiling Zero Start V3 6a * 31
18 Ceiling Zero Direct / Ground Zero f5+ 12
19 D.T.s
-
E2 5c 1
20 The Flue E1 5c 11
21 Frog Buttress Traverse V1 5b 38
22 Sewer Turn VS 4c ** 46
23 Down the Pan
-
S 4a 8
24 Frog's Back Direct
-
VD 19
25 Frog's Back
-
D 14
26 Frog
-
HD 18
27 Croaked
-
VS 4c 9
28 Toad Wall
-
HVD 25
29 Toadpole HS 4a 12
30 Make It Snappy
-
VS 4c 19
31 Crocodile Corner HVD ** 49
32 Merlin's Arete VD 13
33 Merlin's Crack
-
D 29
34 Merlin's Wall
-
M * 38
35 Forever Amber HS 4b 16
36 Amber Block HS 4b 14
37 Giant's Steps
-
VD 19
38 Giant's Arete
-
HS 4b 9
39 Peg Wall HVD 7
40 Root Route
-
M 16
41 Flakey Pastry
-
none 007 4
42 Black Wall
-
HVS 5a 3
43 Panther
-
M 4
44 Tiny's Tower
-
S 4a 2
45 Apples and Pears
-
M 2
  Jungle Area
47 Tree Corner
-
VD 1
48 Jungle Route
-
VD 1
49 Bower Corner
-
HD 1
50 Bower Crack
-
HD 1
51 Green Groove
-
HD 2
52 Green Corner
-
D 4
  White Wall
54 Hang About HS 5a 9
55 Banana Crack
-
S 4a 8
56 Pea-pod
-
HVD 6
57 Bat Wall
-
HVS 5b ** 3
58 The Belfry
-
VS 5a 6
59 Monty
-
HD 9
60 Python
-
S 4a 7
61 White wall HS 4a 9
62 Nick's Nick
-
S 4a 3
63 Bobbin
-
HS 4a 1
64 Ivy route D 1
65 Nettle Corner HD 2
  Avalanche Buttress
67 Avalanche Crack VD 1
68 Avalanche Wall VD  
  Giants Staircase Area
70 Giant's Staircase
-
M 7
71 Willies Wall
-
HD 2
72 Overhang Wall HS 4a 2
73 Ivanhoe Crack
-
HVD 7
74 Santa's Chimney VD 12
  The Turret
76 Flax Wall VS 4c ** 13
77 Turret Buttress Overhang HVS 5c ** 11
78 Turret Buttress Overhang Direct E4 5c ** 6
79 Buttress Wall
-
E2 5c 4
80 Tensing Stretch HVD 22
81 Hunt's Chimney VD 21
82 HillaryTraverse
-
HD 8
83 Thermal
-
VS 5a 4
84 Flying Crack
-
VS 4c 7
85 Flying Corner
-
VS 4b 5
86 Fallen Angel
-
VS 4b 1
87 Fluted VS 4c * 5
88 Funnel
-
HVD 5
89 Sinter
-
HS 4b 2
90 Filter Corner
-
E2 5c  
  Monks Wall
92 Rasputin E2 5c * 6
93 Monk's Crack
-
VS 4c 5
94 Abbot's Crack HVS 5a 5
95 Monk's Wall
-
HVS 5a 2
96 Dirty habbit wall HVS 4c/5a ** 1
97 Dirty Habit Corner HVS 5b ** 13
98 Nun's Nasty VS 4c 5
99 Nun's Crack
-
HVD 21
100 Convent Wall
-
E1 5c 3
101 Convent Arete
-
VS 5a  
102 Monks Wall Traverse V2 68
103 Crack Left f4 20
104 Flake f6A 26
105 Pillar Crack f5 * 21
106 Crack Right f4+ 21
107 Seam f6A 28
108 Yew Monk V8 1
109 Monks Crack Left-Hand * VS 5c * 1
  Yew Tree Wall
111 Yew Tree Traverse
-
f7A+ *** 35
112 Yew Two 7b+ ** 10
113 Problem 8 f6A 19
114 Holly Tree Wall f6A+ 22
115 Statement of Yewf f6B+ 19
116 Yew Tree Wall f6C 26
117 Yew Tree Corner (Start) f6C 27
118 Yew Tree Corner
-
E1 5c ** 3
119 Yew Tree Corner (Variation 2) f7B * 13
120 Prob 13 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree Wall V5 41
121 The Pinch f7A 42
122 The pinch eliminate - no pinch f7B * 7
123 The Pinch Superdirect f7C ** 1
124 The Pinch Superdirect Extension V10 1
125 Left Side Story V9 1
126 Left Side Story Extention * V10 1
127 Prob 17 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree Wall V2 36
128 P18 Up To Jug Ledge V3 * 49
129 Demented
-
HVS 5a 4
130 Bulge (YTW) f6A+ * 33
131 Yew What? f6B+ 20
132 Problem 19 PB 98 f7A 26
133 The Arete (Cringing Arete Start) V0 55
134 Cringing Arete
-
VS 4c 9
135 Right On V3 6a 4
136 Yew Tree Reverse into Yew Tree Wall
-
V7 1
137 Yew Tree Reverse into Yew Tree Corner
-
V6 1
138 Yew Tree Reverse into The Pinch
-
V8 1
139 Yew Tree Reverse into Right On
-
V5 1
140 Yew Tree Reverse into Statement of Yewf
-
V7 1
  Green Wall
142 Cringing Crows VS 4c 4
143 Crow's Mantle
-
VS 4c 4
144 Green Wall S 6
145 Snowdrop
-
M 5
146 Toothless S 2
147 Rose Scoop VD 2
148 Rose Arete
-
HS 4a 1
  Lower Tier
150 Bluto VD  
151 Popeye's Crack HS 4b  
152 Olive Oil's Wall S  
153 Sweet Pea S  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DerwentDiluted