A real gem! Compact, highly pocketed limestone in a beautiful location. A sheltered sun trap make the Tor an all year round venue. Home of some of the best face routes on lime up to 70m long, but litle below HVS. Central Wall (VS 4b), Beeston Eliminate (HVS 4c,5a,5a) and Pocket Symphony (E1 5b) are all fine examples but the most outstanding routes are The Beest, Black Grub and Majolica (all E3).
From the A515 Buxton Ashbourne road head west through Alstonefield to Wetton (SK 108533). Continue along the Manifold Valley/Grindon road to Weag's Bridge and parking (SK 100543). The Tor is 10 min walk south along the river.
The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Dates: 16 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction applies from Flying Doctor to Central Wall inclusive to protect nesting birds.
Last update: 16/04/2019
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Peregrines nesting in the Ivy Gash. Don't climb in spring! Anne Fairbank - 14/Apr/19
Bird restriction sign gone up. Something nesting in ivy gash apparently so most of the crag is out. Couldn't find anything on BMC site though. Chriswallis2 - 25/Mar/17
path leading right from the base of the thorn is well and truly overgrown (06/2015) and in-situ rope has rotted through and is not of any use making the narrow footpath which can not be seen a rather scary proposition. well worth taking a machete to the path and putting in a new fixed rope as we had to reverse as getting across was not possible. Also path/ledge below the main pocket symphony slab has overgrown so access to central wall and routes to the right of the pocket symphony belay is not possible without bush wacking attire. nothing a machete wouldnt fix but heading across ivy gash and abbing in seems the only way at present. jmills94 - 23/Jun/15
Peregrines nesting at the stance of patience this year. Best avoid the far left of the crag til they've gone sgl0jd - 20/Jul/11
Lovely location - very picturesque and only a 10 minutes or less approach. Rock very solid. The farm below is a bit of a dump and we had the silence ruined for a couple of hours by farmer palmers generator. Still - highly recommended if only to avoid the crowds. Jules Lane - 26/Apr/10
If river is dry and from before the farm, rather than fully crossing the river, the best approach is to walk down the river bed and join path striking up to crag.
Not mentioned in the description, The Thorn is obviously one of the crag classics.
A 50m ab from the holly tree gets you to 'base camp'. Grading is on the friendly side - makes a change! Pocket Symphony doesn't stand out as being higher quality than the rest of the trio starting and finishing from the same spot - they're all good. Agree that the approach to the RHS is heinous, even with the fixed ropes - am told there have been fatalities. Possible to avoid by moving R-wards from Pock. Symph belay to gain Black Grub start - scary horiz traverse (roped), or safe pendule. TonyM - 21/Sep/05
Right hand side is marred by the scramble to get to it - don't take the Rockfax warning lightly. E1 4a business. Put me off going anywhere near there to do the routes. Fiend - 19/Aug/04