Climbs 49
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 210m a.s.l
Faces S

The classic shot of The Thorn (HVS), Beeston Tor © TonyM

Crag features

A real gem! Compact, highly pocketed limestone in a beautiful location. A sheltered sun trap make the Tor an all year round venue. Home of some of the best face routes on lime up to 70m long, but litle below HVS. Central Wall (VS 4b), Beeston Eliminate (HVS 4c,5a,5a) and Pocket Symphony (E1 5b) are all fine examples but the most outstanding routes are The Beest, Black Grub and Majolica (all E3).

Approach notes

From the A515 Buxton Ashbourne road head west through Alstonefield to Wetton (SK 108533). Continue along the Manifold Valley/Grindon road to Weag's Bridge and parking (SK 100543). The Tor is 10 min walk south along the river.

 

Restricted access for birds bans - see BMC page

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
On Peak Rock (2003)

Out of print:
Bird restriction sign gone up. Something nesting in ivy gash apparently so most of the crag is out. Couldn't find anything on BMC site though.
Chriswallis2 - 25/Mar/17
path leading right from the base of the thorn is well and truly overgrown (06/2015) and in-situ rope has rotted through and is not of any use making the narrow footpath which can not be seen a rather scary proposition. well worth taking a machete to the path and putting in a new fixed rope as we had to reverse as getting across was not possible. Also path/ledge below the main pocket symphony slab has overgrown so access to central wall and routes to the right of the pocket symphony belay is not possible without bush wacking attire. nothing a machete wouldnt fix but heading across ivy gash and abbing in seems the only way at present.
jmills94 - 23/Jun/15
Peregrines nesting at the stance of patience this year. Best avoid the far left of the crag til they've gone
sgl0jd - 20/Jul/11
Lovely location - very picturesque and only a 10 minutes or less approach. Rock very solid. The farm below is a bit of a dump and we had the silence ruined for a couple of hours by farmer palmers generator. Still - highly recommended if only to avoid the crowds.
Jules Lane - 26/Apr/10
If river is dry and from before the farm, rather than fully crossing the river, the best approach is to walk down the river bed and join path striking up to crag. Not mentioned in the description, The Thorn is obviously one of the crag classics. A 50m ab from the holly tree gets you to 'base camp'. Grading is on the friendly side - makes a change! Pocket Symphony doesn't stand out as being higher quality than the rest of the trio starting and finishing from the same spot - they're all good. Agree that the approach to the RHS is heinous, even with the fixed ropes - am told there have been fatalities. Possible to avoid by moving R-wards from Pock. Symph belay to gain Black Grub start - scary horiz traverse (roped), or safe pendule.
TonyM - 21/Sep/05
Right hand side is marred by the scramble to get to it - don't take the Rockfax warning lightly. E1 4a business. Put me off going anywhere near there to do the routes.
Fiend - 19/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 West Wall Climb VS 4c ** 110
2 Beeston Eliminate HVS 5a *** 95
3 Enough Time HVS 5b 3
4 Patience HVS 5b * 43
5 The Beest E3 6a *** 136
6 Principle of Moments E3 5c * 2
7 Flying Doctor E5 6b * 1
8 The Thorn HVS 5a *** 497
9 Double Top E4 6a * 3
10 Ivy Gash HVS 5b * 38
11 Stagnation VS 4c * 44
12 Nocturne VS 4c * 119
13 Pocket Symphony E1 5b ** 368
14 Deaf Dove E2 5c * 151
15 Evensong E1 5a ** 205
16 Midnight Mass E3 5c 4
17 Central Wall VS 4b ** 137
18 Catharsis E3 5c * 17
19 Black Grub E3 5c *** 155
20 Cleo's Mood E5 6a * 4
21 The Fly E3 6a ** 15
22 The Web HVS 5a 4
23 The Spider HVS 5a * 7
24 Solution Pollution E1 5b 13
25 Majolica E3 5c ** 86
26 Faience E4 6a * 10
27 Go Budgie Go
-
E5 6a * 4
28 Budgie E4 6a ** 5
29 Bertram's Chimney VD * 14
30 Gary Gobstoper HVS 5a 3
31 Little Crow
-
HVS  
32 Honorary Buoux 7c ** 4
33 666 7c+ ** 2
34 Beast It! 7b 1
35 The Beesting 8a ** 3
36 Pat-trick E4 6b * 2
37 The Beeston Bomber 8a+ ** 1
38 Lynx Wall * S 5
39 Throwley Ridge Grooves *
-
S 4
40 Skylight Groove HS 5
41 White Room * HVS 4c ** 4
42 Trill *
-
E4 6a 1
43 Jerry Hat-trick *
-
E3 5c 2
44 Patience Direct - Beauty *
-
E2 5c 5
45 The Beasty Boys *
-
E3 6a * 3
46 Skylight Flake * HS 2
47 Buzz *
-
HS 2
48 Lord of the Dance * E3 6a ** 1
49 Perforation HVS 5a *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Misha