Climbs 17
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

 

Bolt Tail offers schist climbing in a location which is particularly beautiful on a sunny day. Big seas should be avoided and a visit must be carefully timed to the tide. Protecting schist takes skill and perseverance but most of the routes can be made reasonably safe. Tricams, hexes and skinny slings are useful additions to a standard rack. The rock can be snappy but with sensible hold selection this shouldn't be a problem.

 

Approach notes

From Malborough follow signs to Hope Cove. Either follow the coast path W, or coasteer in the same direction (Grade III with a singulary taxing patch of V) to a semi-island/reef called "The Bury Stone". The descent lies down a gully just S of some large boulders between the stone and the cliff.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Bury Stone Cliff
2 Crystalline VS 4c 2
3 Crankey E2 5c ** 2
4 Piranha E2 5b * 3
5 Triple Blade E1 5b 2
6 Fluffy HS 4b ** 2
7 Butch E2 5c * 2
8 Slim E2 5b * 3
9 Hoolie VS 4c * 1
10 Groovy HS 4b 1
11 Straight E1 5a * 2
12 Flaked Out
-
VS 4c * 3
13 Helter
-
VD 1
14 The Great Escape S 4a 1
15 Nasty E1 4c 1
  Drakes Cliff
17 Privateer E4 5c ** 2
18 El Draco E5 6a *** 1
  China Buttress
20 Old Dogs
-
VS 4c  

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