Climbs 126
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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A last good day in September. Walk in from Great Tor towards Three Cliffs Bay, Gower. © terragait

Crag features

Very popular with beginners and clubs. Easy-angled slabs up to 25m high including two great ***VS routes, Scavenger (4b) and Arch Slab (4c). There is an E4 6a too, but it stands alone among easier routes. (There's nothing in the grades between the lone HVS - which is very short and easy at HVS 4c - and that E4.) Some routes polished at start.

Approach notes

Tidal. The sea comes in very fast: don't get caught at the bottom. Approach from the campsite down across the bay. Miscalculating the tide will mean wet trousers, at best.

Went today. Glorious in the sunshine. Met the basset hound. Sat on my shoes, said hello to everyone then dug a hole and barked at it.
Manicstreetmini - 14/Aug/14
The wobbly flake on the far right line has now fallen off. Open to suggestions for grade amendments!
partz - 09/May/14
The basset hound is still at large. He came a dug a massive trench next to us and barked at it randomly. I've not attempted any of the climbs here but plan too this weekend.
jobiehoar - 05/Aug/13
Oops, how did that happen? Although to be fair it's so crumbly it may as well be sand :)
Steve Hill - 19/Nov/12
Steve, this crag is Limestone - not sandstone.
Skyhook - 18/Nov/12
Don't bother not a good crag waste of bolts in my opinion
Mattdixclimb - 01/Nov/12
I have added Third Buttress, Second Buttress, Cracked Arete and First Buttress (in order from the west). They are all on East Wall of Pobbles East and listed in the Gower & SE Wales guidebook (routes 14-17). I think Fictitious Monkeys and Diagonal are probably actually at the east end of Pobbles West (a large cave is mentioned in the description of FM) and I reconnoitered this cave today. Hope this is all useful. This venue is enjoyable for soloing and probably doesn't get much use. Cheers, Martin
Martin Lilley - 25/Jul/10
To find Pobbles East: After entering the beach from the Southgate path turn left. After a series of low slabby sections a narrow gully opens out with pools in the 'cave' at the back. This is NOT Pobbles East. Follow the beach further round past the sub-headland, walk to the end wall and go left. This gully has the cave of The Poseidon Enigma (E3 6b) in the back left with a large hole in the roof. Routes from The Groove to Blue Lights Crack are to the the left as you look into the gully, and routes from Fourth Buttress onwards to the right. Good potential for quiet soloing.
Martin Lilley - 25/Jul/10
Went there with the kids, approach from Southgate made it hard to work out what is what from the book! There is a large obvious cave that doesnt appear to be mentioned! However, there are some good child friendly routes in the coves to the left of the cave, and something like an S 4b up the left flank by the cave. If it hasn't got a name it is now 'Ficticious Monkeys' Avoid anything to the right of the acve as it is incredibley difficult to set up a belay at the top, and the rock is very loose. Despite the walk from the road, this beach is popular with the bucket & Spade brigade.
glass90land - 31/May/08
Last few times we went there a little Basset hound that must live near the beach and roams around all day following people around. Name's Bettsy and seems a bit scavengerish, TIP: put your bags etc about 10 meters out from the face. when the tide gets close get down and out this'll give you time another is don't leave food open at the bottom or it won't be there when you get down courtesy of Bettsy... peace out
Obvian - 08/Mar/07
we climbed and abseiled all three. they go in stages of hardness. i've never done hvs before but i shot up it, it was great but quite hard. TIP: use your toes and don't rely on your hands to much its your feet you use more. TIP: be careful like you always should be TIP: concentrate
terri-louise - 24/Oct/03
I have some great memories of this wonerfull place, scavanger was my first lead climb, shame I never manage to the hardest route inside the cave. maybe one day!?
becci - 27/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Three Cliffs
2 Left Crack M 91
3 Right Crack I M 100
4 Wall Climb I D 198
5 Cleft I D 275
6 Wall Climb II D 227
7 Cleft II VD 476
8 Wall Climb D 234
9 Left Corner I M 346
10 Initiation Flake S * 717
11 Right Corner I D 185
12 Meander D 139
13 Bulge VD 118
14 Left Corner II D 208
15 Piton Route HS 33
16 Inverted V HVS 4c * 327
17 Spouse Crack S 287
18 Right Crack II S 4a 58
19 Quartz Corner HS 4b 223
20 Joggled Wall - Left Side Variation VD * 72
21 Joggled Wall VD * 587
22 Joggled Wall Direct HS 4a * 684
23 Left Edge HS 4b 221
24 Perseverance HS 4b * 719
25 Right Corner II M 128
26 Arch Slab - Left Variation * HS 4a 8
27 Arch Slab VS 4c ** 638
28 Under Milk Wood VS 4a * 255
29 The Steal E4 6a * 5
30 Scavenger VS 4c *** 919
31 Scavenger Variations VS 4c * 15
32 Hangel VS 4c 24
33 Maze Bulge HVS 5a 1
34 October S 21
35 Plumb Line D 185
36 Disappointment D * 88
37 Circumvention M 13
38 Consolation VD 44
39 Traverse of the Three Pinnacles M * 95
40 The Battle of Midway VS 5b 9
41 Back Beat E3 5c * 1
  Moved climbs from Pobbles Bay
  Pobbles West
44 Main Wall
-
S 65
45 Center of Slab E1 6a * 4
Climb name Grade
46 Gwyn's Route
-
VS 5a 93
47 Central Slab S 66
48 Left Corner
-
VD 153
49 Left Pillar VD 140
50 Pillar Route
-
D 113
51 Right Edge 1
-
M 90
52 Brant Minor
-
VS 22
53 Brant Direct Minor
-
VS 4c 30
54 Barry Slapper
-
E2 6a 9
55 East Fissure Wall
-
VD 28
56 Shy Slab
-
S 48
57 Square Cut
-
D 65
58 Right Edge II
-
D 45
59 Two Tier Slab
-
D 52
60 Little Corner
-
VD 30
61 Fissure Direct
-
VD 31
62 Fissure Route
-
D 27
63 Soap Gut
-
VD 33
64 Scoop D 32
65 Girdle
-
VD 25
66 Blind Crack
-
D 18
67 First Slab
-
M 22
68 Recessed Wall
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VD 22
  Pobbles East
70 The Groove
-
M 36
71 Slab Route
-
S 79
72 Limpet Route
-
HVS 5b * 54
73 Barnacle Bulge
-
VS 4c * 39
74 Insanity
-
HVS 9
75 Smalt
-
VS 4c ** 65
76 Blue Glass
-
VS 4c ** 37
77 Corner Groove
-
D * 48
78 Twin Crack Slab
-
M 36
79 Jagged Edge
-
HVD 48
80 Blue Lights Crack
-
VS 5a 7
  East Wall
82 Fourth Butress
-
VS 4c 6
83 Fictitious Monkeys VD  
84 Diagonal
-
VD 3
85 Third Buttress D * 10
86 Second Buttress VD 7
87 Cracked Arete M 9
88 First Buttress M 7
89 Quergang
-
HS 4b 3
Climb name Grade
  Scoop Corner
91 Corners Edge (Scoop Corner)
-
VD 4
92 Lower Corner
-
D 2
93 Upper Corner
-
VD 3
94 The Poseidon Enigma E3 6b 1
95 Pimp it Route VS 4c 1
  Moved climbs from Pobbles Quarries
97 Wind Her Up S  
98 Winder Down HVD 4
99 Pigeon
-
S 2
100 Roy Rogered HS 5
101 Lady-flavoured Slug Trail
-
5a 16
102 Octo-Scolanoo
-
4a 16
  Moved climbs from Shire Combe
104 Anemone Wall
-
VS 4c 25
105 Pickpocket
-
HVS 5b 6
106 Alternate
-
S 21
107 The Jackal
-
HVS 5a 1
108 Painter's Paradise
-
VS 4b 2
109 Il Bel Camino
-
MVS 5a ** 3
110 Great Slab VS 2
111 Respite
-
S 7
112 Eastern Promise
-
E2 5c 1
113 East Face
-
D 1
114 Wide crack
-
D 3
115 Honesty
-
HVS 2
116 East Corner D 1
117 Cleft Direct VS 1
118 Cleft left arete. * VD  
  Moved climbs from Equal Opportunities
120 Far Left Line f7A * 6
121 Equal Opportunites Low Traverse f7A+ 3
122 Left Hand Line f7C+ ** 6
123 Far Right Line f6A+ * 6
124 N.F.O. f6A ** 19
125 N.S.A. Left exit f6A+ * 9
126 N.S.A. Direct f6C 2
127 Half Board f6B+ * 1
128 Full Board f7B+ ** 1
129 Revival Ops f7C+ ** 2
130 Nfo Lh Sit f7A+ ** 3
131 Left Hand Line Sans Pocket f7C 1
132 Left Wing f7C 4
133 In Between Ops f7C+ 4
134 Tough Order f8A * 1
135 Right Wingin' It * f7A * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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