UKC

Climbs 8
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 45m a.s.l
Faces NW

Soloing one of the VD's.....beware the loose upper section! © hereford-climber

Crag features

An area on the lower right hand wall offers a cluster of minimally protected routes not exceeding 12 metres. Mainly sound except loose finishes.

Approach notes

20140815 (Updater: brownp6672)- I found a faster means to reach the quarry. Go to the Old Down Cricket center (BS32 4PH), at the top of the Thornbury hill. The entry road to the cricket center (Football pitch on the right) leads to a small car park. Pass through the gate on left side of the car park (Has a Kissing Gate). Directly in front of you across a field (Has some horses) 80m away is a wooden gate (Has a Kissing Gate), this is the access route to the bottom left side of the quarry.

NOTE: The stone wall on the left of the second gate is the boundary of the top of quarry and has bardbed wire. Pass through the second gate and follow path slightly down slightly to the left, after about 100-150m it turns gently to the right. At the gentle turn, you will need to plough off left and the quarry is well hidden about 100-200m away and you will find the right end of the quarry! NOTE: Brambles will enjoy tripping you up! Top to bottom quarry is about 12m deep, but at least 800m across or more and moderately overgrown in places at the top.

Plenty of large trees could be belay points spread across the whole quarry top. Area below the crag is mostly nettles and moist earth, little rubble. A rough path exists along the bottom of the crag.

On the far right (The way I got access to the bottom of the quarry) at the bottom of the quarry, you can easily gain access the top of the quarry without much effort, avoiding the longer walk and barbed wire and wall. Happy climbing!

Park and enter fieldPark in Tockington and take the Old Down Hill road up the hill past the tall school wall on the right. After a quarter of a mile take an obvious gated footpath on the right then immediately follow the wooden fence on the left (safer than walking along the road), pass through another gate and down some wooden steps into the quarry.

Take the path and a clean area of rock will soon be visible on the right.

PLEASE NOTE: This crag is NOT suitable for organised groups. This is a nature reserve managed by the local parish council and attitudes to climbing here is unknown. The routes may be low grade, there are no convenient abseil points and plenty of loose rock at the top.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

Found the quarry no problem. See instructions. Did a bit of gardening but needs a lot more. Quite a bit of potential for esoteria. Used trees at top to put a rope down as the rock is great generally until the final 5 feet. Take care with the barbed wire fence at the top.
leland stamper - 24/Dec/13
Went looking for the quarry today in the sunshine, found a smaller outcrop in the woods with a great crack feature, but very loose rock. This was following your directions which were spot on, so i'm not sure if this where you were? Near an old storage container? Instead of turning of the road when you did after the school wall follow it past the 30mph sign and the entrance to the quarry is on the right. The rock here is acually pretty bomber and i soloed a couple of the VD's here....its just the exits that are friable!!
hereford-climber - 16/Apr/12
Although looking at the pictures again, maybe it wasn't in the right place I was at!
danwilliams99 - 26/Mar/12
Headed down there today seeing as it was so nice. The crag is very overgrown and there's quite a lot of loose rock about. I managed a bit of traversing but not much more. I'd still check it out though, just so you can get an idea. To get there I parked at the bottom of the road and walked back up past the wall of tockington manor school. Go through the gate and follow the footpath up to the field, keep right and follow the wall along to another gate. Once through the gate follow the left hand branch of the footpaths for about 2 minutes until there is another path branching off to the left, the crag is up behind the container you can see that's half covered in bushes.
danwilliams99 - 26/Mar/12
It rained unfortunately and decided it was not going to be a great crag to visit in the rain. Going to give it another try this Wednesday, don't need to be in work till 12, so I'll try and find it and let you know.
hereford-climber - 19/Mar/12
Did you make it down? Is it worth it for some bouldering practise or too green?
danwilliams99 - 19/Mar/12
Thinking of popping down before work tommorrow or Sat morning with my bouldering mat? Worth a try maybe??
hereford-climber - 08/Mar/12
does anyone else actually climb this crag? i use it for a bit of fun soloing as it's right by my house - but it's not anything more. slimy and with not much protection. maybe 5/6 routes between vdiff and severe.
beanfingers - 01/Apr/06
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Climbs at this crag

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