Climbs 84
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces S

The classic Bluebell Traverse © craig h

Crag features

The obvious feature to aim for is the Granny rock, an isolated pinnacle with an easy front and somewhat harder back side. Grades vary from VB to V10. Some excellent traverses and eliminates, the steeper side is decorated with graffiti some of which is more erudite than others but beware of "Big Prawn". There is, occasionally, broken glass at the bottom of the routes and this is periodically swept away by locals, however.
Opposite the Granny is the Blubell wall; this is the principal bouldering area. Although the wall seeps in places the climbing is superbly technical, extremely fingery, and not forgiving. Non-eliminates range from V0 to V7, whilst the Bluebell traverse is a must-do incredibly recalcitrant English 5C/6A though there may be a couple of 6B moves.
Facing Bluebell wall and going right through the trees, an easier square shaped slabby wall emerges. This is the Who wall (aka Eagle Rock). Here, slabbier problems/routes are the order of the day, and are juggy in comparison to the rest.
Down and right is the overhanging wall. This has old bolts set at the top for toproping; the problems/routes here are excellent and well worth the trouble, being of an extremely hard nature. The grades from english 5C to english 7A, which probably just warrants French bouldering 8A.

Regular use will give you steel fingers and make you as strong as an ox.
If it was good enough for Al Rouse.......

(There are some new drilled/chipped pockets on grannys rock. They are numerous, obvious and deep. Please avoid.)

Approach notes

Come off the M53 at the dock exit Turn left at the roundabout then left at the lights onto Breck road. Past the school on the left and park up near the Ship Inn Public house. The quarry is accessed by a concrete staircase sloping right at the side of the pub RH as you face it.

Eagle Rock (The Who Wall to anyone that actually goes the breck..) has been covered in silver spraypaint at some point over the past couple weeks. Not sure how it will effect the climbing but a great deal of the holds have been hit by this.
ex0 - 15/Jul/13
Actually fell in love with this place thismornin, wish i had started goin along time ago
phil_freeman - 06/Mar/10
There is now a Facebook group for those who use it. http://www.facebook.com/#!/group.php?gid=20733733642&ref=ts
gary.barr - 01/Mar/10
is there any online topos of the venue or any guide books with it in..
phil_freeman - 24/Feb/10
Would it be at all possible for anyone who wishes to make comments about the urbanity of this (or any other venue) to read the comments below, and realise that, yes, we know! Thank you! We've done that. Now, perhaps we can talk about the climbing...
Dnmn - 10/May/09
Iím climbing there very frequently now. My fingertips were going red going on purple after my last session! Great place and great for finger workouts. Just take a mat as itís mainly highballing.
gary.barr - 28/May/08
i have been meaning to get over here and check it out, seeing as i live in Eastham, but then there is irby aswell so save the gear gettin robbed and a wee hospital trip and head over to irby. if it was more closer like in bromborough or somet, then i would make the most off it!
phil_freeman - 14/Dec/07
this is where i spent my miss guided childhood bunking off from mosslands school just down the roads. after 4 years of going every dinner time and weekends, when i left and joined the navy i ended up getting into the portsmouth climbing team and was very well regarded. for me, this is such a great place to get to the roots of climbing. stamina and technique learnt the old fashion way without gadgets, just some old fashion finger bashin'! i have been out of it for a few years now(the beer demon came and took me) and i am starting at the roots again now im out of the forces. like the guide book say, its a fiver in a pile of crap....
rudeymike - 19/Jul/07
Because, Gregm, it's a great place to go in the evening, can be part of an overall training program with Frodsham and Pex, doesn't involve miles of unnecessary driving if you're local, is free, and is outside. But of course, if you're scared of a few kids...
duncanmartin - 25/May/07
Dive, why bother?
Craigm411 - 26/Mar/07
I learnt to climb here in the 60's along with a lad who lived down the road from me, went by the name of Al Rouse, he showed a bit of potential even tho he was a couple of years younger than me. We used to wear pumps that we wore for gym at school. Very happy days, it's sad to hear of the grafitti and glass, will go back and have a look next time I am in Wallasey seeing my Mum.
Scally - 28/Nov/06
my local crag, it turns out- just stuck a sodding great piece of glass in my finger when i grabbed a hold- toothbrush reccommended...
greggle - 01/Aug/06
i couldnt agree more with the comment about glass and dog muck also i wouldnt reccomend being there in the dark unless u take a bat as there is loads of gangs hanging around who frighten the life outta most people.
dominic heaney - 31/Dec/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Granny Rock (south/easy face)
2 Granny Easy Way VB 3a 22
3 Granny Left Arête (south) V0- 3c 23
4 The Crack V0- 3b 19
5 Central Route
-
V0- 3a 19
6 Egg Scoop V0- 3b 19
7 Right Wall VB 3b 21
  Granny Rock (west face)
9 Left Arête (west) V1 4c * 17
10 Al V1 5a * 12
11 The Granny's Chair V0 4c * 24
12 Antimacassar V0- 4b * 22
  Granny Rock (north/hard face)
14 Left Arete (north face) V0- 3b * 57
15 Inside Left V0- 4c * 55
16 Five A or C V1 5a 37
17 Sledge Climb V1 5c 29
18 Ledge Climb V1 5b ** 38
19 Slot Pocket V3 5c * 31
20 Twin Pocket V2 5c * 16
21 Route 66 V6 6b * 4
22 Phil's Route V5 6a ** 4
23 Old Shep V5 6b ** 6
24 The Brundlefly V8+ ** 2
25 The Positron Traverse V3 6a *** 26
26 Granny Rock High Traverse V1 5b ** 23
27 Granny Rock Ground Level Traverse V6 6b * 2
28 Greg's Traverse V8 7a * 2
  Bluebell Wall
30 Pond Life V0 5a 2
31 Crack and Scoop V0 4c 1
32 Rampage V0 5a 1
33 Fremantel V0 5a * 1
34 Chickens Scoop V2 5c  
35 Tony's Wall V4 6b * 1
36 Bluebell Wall Descent V0- 3c 13
37 Hairy Irene V0 5a 1
38 Hairy Mary V1 5a * 7
39 Bluebell Crack V0 5a * 23
40 Knuckle Suck V2 5c * 7
41 Fagan V0 5a * 7
42 Melancholy V2 5c * 11
43 The Vibrato V3 6a * 7
44 No Rebate V2 5c * 10
45 Flake Route V3 6a * 1
46 Flying V V5 6b 1
47 Lightning Crack V3 6a ** 4
48 Half Nelson V3 6a * 2
49 Armlock Crack V3 5c * 11
50 Concrete Wall V2 5c ** 9
51 Postie V3 6a * 2
52 The Eyes V4 6a * 5
53 The Star Route V2 5c 2
54 Ant Crack V3 6a ** 7
55 Quercus's Corner V1 5b 5
56 Green Arete V1 5b 6
57 Scotch Corner
-
V0- 4c 5
58 Bluebell Wall Top Break Traverse V3 5c 1
59 The Bluebell Traverse V7 6b *** 3
60 Bluebell Wall Super Lower Traverse V2 5c 1
  Who Wall / Eagle Rock
62 Left Arete VB 4b 45
63 Serendipity V0 5a * 47
64 The Overlap V0 4c * 42
65 Central Wall V3 6a * 30
66 Artful Dodger VB 4b 41
67 Anfield Corner VB 4b 28
68 Mossy Wall V4 6b ** 11
69 Wet Leg Arete V1 5b * 31
70 Between the Green V3 5c * 10
71 Boiler Plate Slab V2 5c * 7
72 Boiler Plate Slab High Traverse V2 5b 6
73 Boiler Plate Slab Mid Traverse V1 5b * 9
74 Who Wall Eliminate Low Traverse V6 6b ** 2
75 Mammoth Traverse V3 5c 4
76 Main Wall * V0- 4c * 1
  Overhanging Wall
78 Tom's Route V3 6b  
79 Fighting Tans
-
V4 6b  
80 Woman's Weekly
-
V4 6b  
81 In The Jungle V5 6b * 1
82 Overhanging Wall Direct V7 6c  
83 Pilli Winks V9 7a  
84 Haston Dyno V10 7a  
85 In The Jungle Direct V7 6c ** 1
86 Greasy Cobweb Crack V3 5c  
87 Flash In The Pan V4 6b  
88 Innominata V3 5c  
89 The Breakfast Line V10 7a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ex0