Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
The classic Bluebell Traverse © craig h
The obvious feature to aim for is the Granny rock, an isolated pinnacle with an easy front and somewhat harder back side. Grades vary from VB to V10. Some excellent traverses and eliminates, the steeper side is decorated with graffiti some of which is more erudite than others but beware of "Big Prawn". There is, occasionally, broken glass at the bottom of the routes and this is periodically swept away by locals, however.
Opposite the Granny is the Blubell wall; this is the principal bouldering area. Although the wall seeps in places the climbing is superbly technical, extremely fingery, and not forgiving. Non-eliminates range from V0 to V7, whilst the Bluebell traverse is a must-do incredibly recalcitrant English 5C/6A though there may be a couple of 6B moves.
Facing Bluebell wall and going right through the trees, an easier square shaped slabby wall emerges. This is the Who wall (aka Eagle Rock). Here, slabbier problems/routes are the order of the day, and are juggy in comparison to the rest.
Down and right is the overhanging wall. This has old bolts set at the top for toproping; the problems/routes here are excellent and well worth the trouble, being of an extremely hard nature. The grades from english 5C to english 7A, which probably just warrants French bouldering 8A.
Regular use will give you steel fingers and make you as strong as an ox.
If it was good enough for Al Rouse.......
(There are some new drilled/chipped pockets on grannys rock. They are numerous, obvious and deep. Please avoid.)
Come off the M53 at the dock exit Turn left at the roundabout then left at the lights onto Breck road. Past the school on the left and park up near the Ship Inn Public house. The quarry is accessed by a concrete staircase sloping right at the side of the pub RH as you face it.