Climbs 65
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces W

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the broomstick © Tom V

Crag features

A landslip that feels more quarried than natural.

Great routes include: The Broomstick HVS 5a ** The Sprog E3 5c *** and The Wasteland E4 5C ***.

Approach notes

From Dovestones car park 30 min.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Chop Suey
-
S 2
2 Suet
-
VS 4b *  
3 Lancashire Hot Pot HVS 5a  
4 Dumpling
-
HS 4b  
5 Spare Ribs
-
HVS 4c  
6 Littler Gully
-
M 1
  The Terraces Area
8 School Run
-
VS 4b *  
9 Traffic Jam
-
E3 5c  
10 Rush Hour Slab
-
VS 4b  
11 The Terraces
-
S  
12 Dementor's Corner
-
HVS 5b,4c  
13 Escape From Azkaban
-
VS 4c,4b,  
  Temptation Slab Area
15 Dirty Groove
-
S 1
16 The Sorcerer's Apprentice E2 5c * 3
17 Temptation Crack VS 4b * 4
18 Mickey Mouse E5 6a *  
19 The Wasteland E4 5c ** 5
20 Sad, Tired and Old
-
E5 6b  
21 The Broomstick HVS 5a ** 8
22 The Witch's Hat HVS 5a ** 1
23 The Chew Valley Comeback Kid
-
E3 5c  
24 The Coffin
-
VS 4c  
Climb name Grade
25 Boulder Groove
-
VD * 1
26 Diagon Alley
-
VS 4b  
27 Paul's Perambulation S 4b * 1
28 Paul's Arete E4 6b *  
29 Charnel Knowledge
-
E5 6b  
30 Time Gentleman Please
-
HVD  
31 Little Gulley
-
M 1
  Tombstone Slab Area
33 Tombstone Groove
-
VS 4c  
34 The Sprog E2 5c ** 5
35 The Charnel House
-
E5 6a  
36 From The Cradle To The Grave
-
E4 6a  
37 The Tombstone VS 4c * 3
38 The Gratefull Dead
-
E1 5b  
39 Tombstone Crack
-
VS 4b  
40 Gunslinger's Corner
-
VD  
41 Sundance Slab
-
E1 5b  
42 Rider's Arete
-
S 4c 1
43 Problem Crack
-
S 4b  
44 Chockstone Crack
-
D 1
45 Easy Rider
-
HVS 5b  
46 Glory Chimney
-
M 1
47 Goof's Glory
-
D * 1
48 Glory Crack
-
D 1
Climb name Grade
  Holly Tree Crack Area
50 Victory Buttress
-
HVS 5a  
51 Victory Cracks
-
VS 4c  
52 Slim Welly Buttress
-
VD  
53 Fat's Cracks
-
S 4a  
54 Slim's Crack
-
VS 4b  
55 Seer's ArĂȘte
-
E3 5c *  
56 Keystone Crack
-
S 4a  
57 Holly Tree Crack
-
S 4a *  
58 Ground Glass Crack
-
HVS 5a  
59 Holly Tree Cleft
-
VD  
60 Holly Tree Pinnacle
-
VD 2
61 Route 2
-
VD  
62 Route 1
-
S  
63 The Girdle Traverse
-
S  
  Charnel Stones Skyline Area
65 The Venessa Hole
-
VS 4c * 7
66 Cunning Stunts
-
E3 6a 1
67 Blood, Sweat and Beers
-
E4 6a *  
68 Paperchase
-
HVS 4c  
  Scrambles and Winter climbs
70 Charnel Clough (summer) 1 * 22
71 Charnel Clough (Winter)
-
I * 1

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