UKC

Climbs 73
Rocktype Greywacke
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces E

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On The Souter after a day of rain dodging! © MightyStew

Crag features

The area around the Souter sea-stack gives some excellent sea-cliff climbing. A great venue for the mid extreme leader!

Tidal


Must Dos :

Skate Bush, E7, 6b, Squid Vicious E5 6a, Puffer Daddy, E3 6a, Fast Bleeder E3 6a, Take It To The Limpets E3 5c, Wallnut E3 5c, Plain sailing E1 5b, The Souter, Ordinary Route HVS 5a, Second Sight HVS 5a.

Contrary to the guide, The Wedge is non-tidal, Limpet Fin is very tidal, Crimpanzie Fin has flaky rock and getting from the half-height ledge to the peg anchor (now backed up) is quite tedious.

Approach notes

Park and approach from Dowlaw farm (55.924600, -2.233013). 

Park at the obvious large layby on the left before entering the farm. Best way to avoid upsetting the farmer is to take the signposted path that heads towards the sea from the layby (signposted Fast Castle). Walk through the trees and through the obvious gate. Follow the obvious path downhill and make sure to take the right hand fork that heads uphill and not the left one going downhill to Fast Castle. At the end of this path climb over the gate and then walk across the fields (keeping right and slightly uphill to avoid the steep bank). Keep going across a couple of fields until the Souter eventually comes in to view. Climb over the stile and the descend the rib down and left.

Alternatively take the well signposted St Abbs coastal path on the right hand side of the farm to a 3 way junction. The Souter is signed from here. Follow a vague path downhill through 2 gates. A final stile leads to a well worn path down steep grass to the inlet.

 

Access Advice

The SMC 1994 guide has a guideline April-July 1st bird ban. The farmer at Dowlaw farm is aware of this.
Take care during nesting season not to disturb any wild birds. It's an offence to do so.

For more info check the Scottish Mountaneering website for Birding Nest Updates 

Left a sling and screw gate on the souter original route. Edinburgh based if you find it.
itsThere - 22/Mar/24
called. Ain't done it before. Very good, but hard for the grade.
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Good man, thanks Stu. Climbed there yesterday and there were no birds nesting on routes that we did, although loads on the chossier unclimbed bits (Including on the walk-in. Be careful for plover nests). Did the E1 on the Stiff Bunnies I think it
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Thanks Danny, I too can't find any reference, so I'm guessing it's historical. I've changed the advice and copied in a link to the MCofS's guidance on the subject which is worth a read. Cheers
apollo18 - 05/Jul/14
Is the bird ban info here up to date? I can't see any mention of it currently on the MCofS page: http://www.mcofs.org.uk/nesting-bird-warning.asp
DannyC - 04/Jul/14
Seal of Approval is a great route and better than the ordinary route on the Souter.
Drexciyan - 12/Jun/13
We didn't fancy the simul abseil(my mate likes his pies) so there's a wee bit of fresh tat up there again and a small wire donated too.
graeme gatherer - 24/Sep/10
the top has been cleaned of tat. you need to abseil off both sides.
KeithAlexander - 13/Sep/10
lol dam right, its been cleaned up now as has my helmet
Rob - 11/Apr/06
If climbing Squid Vicious on the Souter, some system to keep the belayer away from under the leader would be highly recommended as life threatening blocks are readily and unpredictably pulled off the first of the two overlaps at about half height.
henwardian - 20/Sep/05
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