UKC

Climbs 68
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 983m a.s.l
Faces E

Turning his back on the spindrift © graeme gatherer

Crag features

This small east-facing winter crag was first developed in the 2010/11 season. The cliff has a short approach (less than one hour from Coire na Ciste car park) and short routes allowing you to climb many routes in a single day. A mini PDF guidebook realeased November 2018 has over 60 recorded routes in it and can be found here: https://www.smc.org.uk/publications/downloads/creaganchano (£2.99).

Whilst it's still nowhere near as popular as lochain/t'sneachda. Cha-no is no longer as secretive as it once was. As such it's very likely that you'll bump into other people. However, if you turn up with a mindset to climb anything (including unclimbed routes) as opposed to just the small number of popular routes, you shouldn't be queueing!

Approach notes

As of July 2018 the ciste carpark (along with all other cairngorm carparks) now has a parking charge: £2 per vehicle per day, £8 for caravans/campervans per day and the option of a £25 season ticket (which I think is only open to non caravans/campervans) more info here: link.

Once the crag itself is reached, access is usually done either by downclimbing recovery gully or by abseiling anvil gully or recovery gully.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left-Hand Buttresses
2 Cha-Cha-Cha V 4  
3 Whaleback Rib III 4 2
4 Edge of Profanity V 7  
  International Rib
6 International Rib II 1
7 Cosmopolitan Chimney IV 6  
  Blood Buttress
9 Plasma Gully I 1
10 Plasma Gully, Asthma Finish III 4 1
11 Blue Blood III 1
12 Blood Thirsty III 4 7
13 Giant Steps IV 6  
14 True Blood III 3
15 True Blood Direct III 4  
16 Half Blood III 1
17 The Blood is Strong III 4 6
18 Captain Fairweather III 4 1
19 Flood Warning III 1
  Mainmast Area
21 Wide Gully I  
22 Short Ridge IV 4 1
23 Ziggy Groove III 1
24 Cutty Ranks IV 6 2
25 Mainmast IV 5 16
26 Cutty Sark IV 5 17
27 Auld Reekie IV 4  
Climb name Grade
28 Auld Reekie, Direct Start V 6  
  Chimney Rib
30 Quiet Corner V 7 4
31 Chimney Rib III 4 88
32 Chimney Rib, Alternative Start IV 6 1
33 Now Winter Bouldering IV 6  
34 Recovery Gully I 66
  Anvil Buttress
36 Frozen Planet IV 6 10
37 Flaked Out VI 7 5
38 Anvil Chorus IV 7 2
39 Anvil Gully IV 4 151
40 Anvil Gully, Right-Hand Finish IV 5 2
41 Anvil Corner VI 6 32
  Duke's Wall
43 Wile-E-Coyote IV 4 16
44 Fast and Furry-ous IV 6  
45 Road Runner IV 5 1
46 Kerplunk III 4
47 Reconnaissance Rib III 1
48 Downtime II 2
49 Hobnailers' Gully II 1
50 Dukes Rib II 43
51 Grandee Grooves III 5  
  Arch Wall
53 Jenga Buttress III 4 131
54 Jenga Buttress Direct IV 5 4
Climb name Grade
55 Daylight Robbery V 6 31
56 Smooth as Silk VII 7 8
57 Max Encouragement VI 7  
58 Arch Rival V 5 2
59 Arch Wall VII 7 1
60 Arch Enemy V 5 22
61 Gallows Groove VI 7 2
62 Fingers and Thumbs IV 5 22
63 One Finger, One Thumb IV 5 1
  Tower Buttress
65 Ptarmigan Rib IV 5 1
66 Mac's Crack VI 7 2
67 Punching Numbers VI 7  
68 Swedish Meatballs V 5 1
69 Tower Chimney V 5 1
  Right-Hand Ribs
71 Dive In II 5
72 Big Boy Made Me II  
73 Once Were Alpinists III 6 3
74 Once we're Alpinists left hand finish V 6 ** 1
75 Turf Factory II 1
76 Flying Rib IV 5  
  Boundary Ridge Area
78 Boundary Ridge III 4 2
79 Beths escape III 3

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