Climbs 82
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 711m a.s.l
Faces all

Rik on Mata-Hari © Charlie M

Crag features

Salinas is a pleasant crag in a peaceful situation. The routes are well-equipped and have a good spread of grades. It is worth noting that many of the harder routes are a bit hacked about and there is a seasonal bird-ban which can interfere with your plans if you are here in the spring. Despite this, the routes are mostly sustained and superb, following steep pockets and thin vertical walls. It shouldn't just be considered a crag for the hard climber as there is a decent selection of fine easier climbs on Sector Picara Viborita and on the edges of the higher sectors. The locals know the cliff as Alto Don Pedro after the hill behind it.

The crag is basically a ridge with routes on both faces. The crag faces east making it a good morning venue in the winter and a useful shady afternoon retreat in the summer. It is not too exposed and can be considered an all year round crag except perhaps on the coldest of days, or when it is windy.

Approach notes

The crag is situated near the town of the same name which is 8km west of Sax and is best approached from there. Drive from Alicante towards Madrid on the A31 (a free dual carriageway). Turn off at Sax and drive into the town. At the first roundabout turn left, signed 'Salinas'. Follow this for about 8km to the small village of Salinas and drive straight through it. After a roundabout leave the town towards 'Monovar' and continue for 1.5km and turn right (signed 'Finca Castillejos'). At this point the ridge of the crag can be seen ahead on the left. Ignore the first dirt track on the left and on the next right-hand bend continue straight onto a wide dirt track. Turn left off this onto another dirt track and follow it towards the crag past two sets of buildings. Keep left at the first branch and right at the second. Park at a clearing on the right or press on to a higher parking area - steep and often hard going. Continue walking up the track to find a path on a bend. This leads straight to Sector Picara Viborita. It is also possible to park just past the second building and be faced with a slightly longer walk.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)

Out of print:
Beware of the approach description given in Rockfax - it appears to be out of date. There is a roundabout as you leave the town - bear leftish. The turn off from the main road is signposted 'Los Fontaros'. Follow the description past the houses, but at the fork (100yds past the houses bear right - not left. Or leave you car there - the oil trail on the track indicates that someone did some damage to their undercarriage !
Chris the Tall - 07/Feb/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Final
2 Manzanita verde 6b+ ** 5
3 Terranova 6c * 3
4 Serrano - Magui I 6b+ *  
5 Crucifixión 7c **  
6 Ahí va la liebre 7c **  
7 Danza interrumpida 7c ** 2
8 Mata-Hari 7a+ *** 23
9 Metamorfosis 7c **  
10 Línea maestra 7b+ ** 1
11 U.C.A. ?  
12 Donde dices que vas 6a+ ** 10
13 La silla de la Reina 6b ** 12
  Sector La Higuera
15 Serrano 6a 3
16 Lloviendo sale corriendo 6a 3
17 Pequeña y juguetona 6c+ * 2
18 Babieca 7b *** 11
19 El gran cañón 7b+ ** 1
20 Reina de corazones 8a *  
21 Africa 7c  
22 Puerco espín 7b+ **  
23 Papá ven en tren 7a+ * 4
24 Hay canto 7b+ * 2
25 Directisima 6b+ ** 8
26 Roca loca 6a * 2
27 Saltimbanqui 6a * 4
28 Pepito conejo 5a * 3
Climb name Grade
  Sector Espolón Mágico
30 Fisura mágico 6a+ 1
31 Placa mágico 6b+ 1
32 Espolón mágico 6b *  
33 Los dedos del mono 7a+ * 2
34 Marca pasos 7a+ *** 8
35 Agárrate donde puedas 7b *  
36 Bozal de esparadrapo 7c *  
37 7b el plumero 7a * 2
38 Cangrena 6c+  
39 Paprika 6b  
40 Avoriaz en pelotas me verás 5c 1
  Sector Picara Viborita
42 Dartacán 6c 1
43 Atos 5a 16
44 Portos 5a 20
45 Aramis 5a 22
46 No te lo pongas 4c * 22
47 Pónselo 6a ** 28
48 Póntelo 5c * 14
49 Jarpichuela 6a * 24
50 Pero yeyo 5a ** 47
51 Amonite 5c * 25
52 Sancho Panza 6a * 30
53 Ali Baba y los 40 6b ** 16
54 El canto de la abubilla 6b+ * 3
55 Lolitus 7a * 1
56 Me estoy multiplicando 6b * 13
Climb name Grade
57 Tatanka 6c * 3
58 Así habelo Pepetrusta 5c * 31
59 Andrea 6b+ * 3
60 Flash Bea 6b+ * 3
61 Bocadillos de micros 6b * 13
62 Lenin 6c *** 43
63 Cernicalus 7a 4
64 Cefalimpadus 6b *** 59
65 El abominable 6b * 9
66 Machu que pichu 6b+ * 10
67 Le puerta de Anubis 6a+ ** 51
68 Sube golondrina 6a * 16
69 Monoharpo 7c *  
70 Chirimoya 7b+ *** 4
71 Alicantorroca 7c+ *  
72 Destroyer 6c+ * 9
  Sector Continuidad
74 Cho-oyu '93 6b+ 1
75 Por Pelos 8a  
76 Totem 7c+ *  
77 La primera y la ultima 6b+  
78 Selva vertical 6a+  
79 Atácale 6b *  
80 Licor armago 7a+  
81 Tortura Contínua 8a *  
82 Roca de Pandora 7b+  
83 Impone el desplome 7b *  

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