Climbs 247
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Parabólica Spherique, 7a+ Gandia © Chris Froud

Crag features

Sitting above a broad orange-filled valley, the red and grey terraced walls of Gandía offer many fine climbs. The grade range is good and, although it isn't great for people leading below 6a, there are enough easier routes dotted around the crag to give a day's worth. In the sixes and sevens the crag excels, with many great routes on pocketed walls and knobbly tufas. The easier climbs are mostly on grey walls, featuring fingery climbing of a good quality. The harder routes are often superb.

The crag faces south, catches all the sun going and is sheltered, it can be hot here even in the middle of winter. The steeper areas suffer from seepage after rain when many of the tufa climbs become impossible. If things haven't started to seep you should find something dry, though it may be pretty tough. El Bovedón stays dry in the rain but the routes are hard.

Approach notes

Drive north on the toll AP-7 to junction 61 - Oliva. Exit here and turn left towards Gandía. Drive through Bellreguard (slow) to a roundabout and take the second exit signed to Valencia. Once on the bypass take the 'Barx' exit which is after the first tunnel and before the second. Turn left under the N332 and the motorway. When you can see the crag ahead on your right, branch right, signed 'Cami de Tomba', and park below the crag. For those with less time and more cash it is faster to drive to the next junction on the motorway then head back south to the roundabout on the ring road. The current access route crosses the dry river bed up-stream from the parking. 

El Bovedón - Drive to Gandía. Continue past the turning for the main crag for 900m then turn left (signed 'Bar Carril'). Drive on for another 900m and turn left again. Drive down here for about 450m to the second turning on the left (which is a surfaced road just past a large green gate). Take this and drive to the first bend and park (the rest of the road is in a very poor state). Walk to the end of the road and follow the path across a slope to the crag.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
most of the new climbs listed are at Bovedos. Approach instructions: If coming from Gandia crag drive past the last Bovedon junction that takes you to Bovedon parking in the villas. Continue on the Cami Meravelles Cova Negra to an obvious parking on left with space for around 10 cars. Park up. continue walking to a gated track on left, if gate closed climb wall. Walk up track, staying on left one until a dry valley to the right of a sign about cave paintings. Walk up valley to crag (20 min approach). Most route names are on the rock.
hms - 16/Mar/15
A point to note: El Bovedon faces south, not east as the guide suggests. This is clearly apparent as you can't see the sea from the cave! That means it's much hotter than the guide might leave you to believe, with only the Abracadabra wall receiving shade all day, and the majority of the crag recieving full sun. Great climbing to be had at both El Bovedon and the Gandia main crag!
Jon_Warner - 19/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Critic
2 Margarita, quan pixa 6a+ 4
3 Esperó groc 6b 4
4 Diagnosis superficial 6b * 6
5 Pasando de poli 7b  
6 Voldria morir 7a *  
7 Ja estic mort 7a+ *  
8 Gran Diedro 5c *** 91
9 Selectiva 6c * 2
10 Espolón "why" 6c * 9
11 Megaloceras 7a 1
12 Águilas 5a ** 12
13 Piccolissima 6a ** 79
14 Tierra Lliure 5c * 8
15 P.S.A.N. 6b 11
16 Beniarrés no em diu res 5a * 73
17 Tallà 5a ** 88
18 Placa Simond 4a * 39
  Sector Hidraulics
20 Me vuelo 3+ 85
21 Donde rapullo 4a * 112
22 Uber looking 4c * 129
23 What's Up? 4c 106
24 Fe Ra 3+ ** 141
25 Coral bajilla 5c * 197
26 Monsters of rock 7a 11
27 Pequeño saltamontes 5a * 270
28 Erupción 5a * 21
29 Pagaras amb costo 6a 4
30 S'estrena en la trena 5c 5
31 Assassí de vampiros 7a * 36
32 Negué Gorrak 7c+ * 2
33 Phythophthora cithrophthora 7b * 2
34 Quien Malonda 7a+ ** 33
35 Spherique voice 7a+ *** 36
36 Parabolic 7b 1
37 Parabolic Voice
-
7b  
38 Kortatu 7b 3
39 Viatge a Cuba 7b 5
40 Blaniulus gluttulatus 7a ** 55
41 Patatas a lo pobre 7b+ ** 15
42 Asamblea de Mojaras 7c+  
43 Ostia coqueta 7a+ ** 5
44 Zucaricida 6c ** 32
45 Leí del perrero 6c+ * 6
  Secto Vici
47 Fisura tal.. 6a+ ** 190
48 Pastor i porreta 6c 7
49 Niña de porcelana 6a+ ** 99
50 Gora 7a 5
51 Pa Roig 6b ** 61
52 Asquerosa coincidencia 6c ** 42
53 El sol 6b+ *** 227
54 Kin mal d'ous 7b  
55 Escorreguda precoç 6c * 6
56 Peiote de bote 6b *** 122
57 Valentet de València 6b *** 133
58 Placa de Ulaca 6b ** 36
59 Muricana 6b * 15
60 Nació 6b+ ** 29
61 Madarikatuak 6c+ * 6
62 Chiqui 6c+ * 6
63 Fes-te-ho 6a+ 9
64 En Falles no folles 6b * 6
65 Capitán Manchego 6a 9
66 Kaya 6b+ * 7
  Sector Fundicio
68 Sense opció 6b 2
69 Nupcias 6b+ ** 33
70 Milan Kundera 6a+ 70
71 Chitiri, chitiri 4c ** 170
72 La insoportable 6a * 99
73 La levedad 6a * 150
74 El ser 5a * 124
75 Bombero gorilero 6a ** 151
76 Tamborinaes 93 6a+ ** 169
77 Puntín d'Ernestín 7a 2
78 El Rigio 6b+ ** 54
79 Pepestroika 6b *** 267
80 Última Albertència 6c+ *** 69
81 Amarrada al pilló 6b+ *** 160
82 Pere 6c+ ** 34
83 Publicasion sin tradision 7b+ * 6
84 A mi no m'afecta 6c * 11
85 S'ambossa 6c 5
86 Espanya no m'apanya 7b * 8
87 En médium 7c * 1
88 Día de borratxera 7b  
89 Joc de manos 7a 8
90 La pera * 7a+ ** 1
  Sector Potent
92 Gandia Potent One 5c 7
93 Stephen Kaka 6b+ * 34
94 Cuartet de bany 5a ** 98
95 Novatillos 5c *** 149
96 P.R. 4c * 46
97 G.R. 6c+ 2
98 Maque, Popeye y la Sirla 6b+ ** 33
99 Dónde hostias putas 6b+ ** 33
100 Joputa 6b+ *** 42
101 Star fort 7b * 2
102 Tercer ull 7b * 2
103 Muluk el targuí 7a+ *** 26
104 Urbália Rurana 7b ** 14
105 Sugar glass 7b+ *** 13
106 El chico de mantenimiento
-
7a+ ** 2
107 Botoia sakatu 7c *** 10
108 Enya 7b *** 38
109 Baila al alba 7b+ ** 8
110 A la babilla 7a+ *** 81
111 L'os 7a *** 133
112 Dos super carrozas 7a+ *** 36
113 Don Diego 7a+ *** 75
114 Jaqo mata 7a+ ** 8
  Sector Final
116 Sopas del rei 7b *  
117 Solta el mos 7a ** 39
118 Galló de la Susanna Alba 7a ** 53
119 Otilia resiste 7a+ 1
120 Prou d'hipocresia 7a+  
121 Groceries 7a 1
122 Andreu i Papandreu 6b+ * 16
123 A mano 7a * 18
124 Bum bum ipaneme 5a * 68
125 Beato Andrés Hibernon 6a * 78
126 Lleones 5a * 71
127 Fetiche 6c 1
128 Abu Abd Allah Muhammad 6b+ * 13
129 Sense goma no conill 6a+ ** 62
130 3/4 d'hora 6a+ ** 60
131 Vergonya 5c 20
  Sector Topdeckio
133 Pep Camarera 5a 1
134 Golondrinas 5a 1
135 Eva Luna 6c * 4
136 Derribos Arias 6b+ * 6
137 Sand Bag 7a 1
138 Boca de grimpau 6b+ * 3
139 Guatleta 6c 5
140 Queferoset 6c 1
141 Rosarito 6b 4
142 Esfínter dilatat 5c * 20
143 Sarcófago? 7b+ *  
144 Anatema maranata 7b *  
145 Celtas Cortos 6a+ ** 18
146 Guirigay 6a+ * 12
147 Gandia Topdeckio 15 6c * 1
148 Tranquilizad 7a * 1
149 Gandia Topdeckio 17 6b+ * 3
150 Descara 6b+ ** 6
151 Gandia Topdeckio 19 7a * 2
152 Boltxevique 6c ** 10
153 Vulcano 6c+ *** 10
154 Gandia Topdeckio 22 6b+ *** 22
155 Lo que sigui 6a+ * 25
156 Mal del tord 5c ** 34
157 Kamari 6a ** 46
158 Cotó-en-pels 5c ** 44
159 Gandia Topdeckio 27 5c * 27
  El Bovedon
161 De-bolted Rib 4a 2
162 Diedrículo (Bovedón Short Bulge) 6b 2
163 Bovedón Short Groove (SN1) 6a  
164 Rib and Wall 7b * 1
165 Bovedón 6b Rib 6b * 6
166 Bovedón Wall Left 6a * 7
167 Bovedón Wall Right 6a * 6
168 Bovedón Broccoli Wall 7a+ * 1
169 Insomni 7b *  
170 Qu'est-ce que tu fais 7a * 2
171 Bovedón Bushes Route 1 7a+ ** 1
172 Bovedón Bushes Route 2 6c ** 4
173 Bovedón Bushes Route 3 6c * 3
174 Lobos 8a ** 2
175 Ave Roma
-
7b  
176 Ave Eva
-
7b  
177 Trasnochando 8b ***  
178 Farrear y corbardes 7b *** 9
179 Perpetúan mobile 7c *** 7
180 Larga, dura y caliente 8a+ ***  
181 Arcadia 7c *** 10
182 Carnicero de Castelnovo 8a+ *** 1
183 Abradacabra 7c+ *** 4
184 Gimnasi
-
6b+  
185 Armando 8a+ ***  
186 Malsoñando 8c ***  
187 La Negra
-
8c+ ***  
188 Mestizaje
-
8c+ ***  
189 Troglobio 8b **  
190 La Antorcha Humana
-
7b *  
191 Chocho Pocho
-
7a *  
192 Benito Camela 7b ** 2
193 Tulipunk 7b+ ** 2
194 Rica chona 6c * 7
195 Bovedóna 6b+ ** 22
196 Quin Tomas 6b ** 20
197 Hernia Fiscal 7a+ * 5
198 Tambors Llunyans 7a * 12
199 Escalada Lechunga 6a+ * 8
200 Quinto Pino 6a+ * 2
201 La de Javi
-
7c *  
202 Poquer-Mon
-
6b  
203 Setze Tacos
-
6b *  
  Other Routes (Location uncertain)
205 Ultima Broca part 1
-
6a+ 4
206 Ultima Broca (L1 & 2)
-
7a 1
207 Voyage pour un sourire
-
7a ** 5
208 Bob Natural Mystic
-
7b *** 2
209 El Puto Gabacho de los Cojones
-
7b+ * 3
210 Pecas Revoltosas
-
7c *** 3
211 Agujetas en las Tetas
-
7c+ *** 2
212 El Romprebragas
-
8a *** 2
213 Dedos 5b 1
214 Rincon y costilla
-
3 ** 1
215 Mikado
-
8a 1
216 Amparanoia Project  
217 La Rampa Calzoncillas Project  
218 Bob Natural Mystic (L1 & 2)
-
8b+  
219 Banzo Arribo Direct Project  
220 Banzo Arribo (RH start)
-
8b  
221 La Canera 8a+  
222 Venemo Negro
-
8b  
223 Clases de Frances
-
7c+ 2
224 Anjia Viva
-
7c+  
225 Viva el Anjia
-
7b+  
226 Hereje Project 1
227 Ironia
-
6c+  
228 La Rubia Leganosa 7a+  
229 Por Amor a Marte 7b+  
230 Perpetúan mobile L1 * 7a+ *** 2
231 ? In between Fe Ra & Coral bajilla * 5a * 1
232 No name 1 * 5b * 1
233 No Name 2 * 4c 2
234 Bovedin: Tira Menos *
-
6a+ 1
235 Bovedin: Mas Vale Mana Que Mano *
-
6b * 2
236 Bovedin: Nebulosa *
-
6c+ 1
237 Urano *
-
7a+ ** 1
238 Bovedin: Superdosis *
-
7b 1
239 SN 9 * 7a ** 2
240 Perpetuando * 8a *** 1
241 Rita * 6a *** 7
242 La Raspa * 6a 5
243 Susto * 6a+ *** 5
244 Cosme *
-
6b ** 1
245 Tallavarte *
-
6b ** 1
246 Tiramenos * 6b ** 1
247 Sacretitos *
-
4b 2
248 Saltamontes *
-
5b 3
249 Yin-Yan *
-
5c 1
250 Els Pinolets *
-
5b 1
251 Jovenes a los 70 *
-
6b 1
252 No name 3 - left of no name 2 *
-
4c ** 1
253 No name 4 left of Bum Bum Ipanema *
-
4b * 1
254 La Raja * 4c 2
255 Las chicas * 5c 2
256 Katana * 5b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Volunteer to moderate Gandia
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]