Climbs 304
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces S

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Parabólica Spherique, 7a+ Gandia © Chris Froud

Crag features

Sitting above a broad orange-filled valley, the red and grey terraced walls of Gandía offer many fine climbs. The grade range is good and, although it isn't great for people leading below 6a, there are enough easier routes dotted around the crag to give a day's worth. In the sixes and sevens the crag excels, with many great routes on pocketed walls and knobbly tufas. The easier climbs are mostly on grey walls, featuring fingery climbing of a good quality. The harder routes are often superb.

The crag faces south, catches all the sun going and is sheltered, it can be hot here even in the middle of winter. The steeper areas suffer from seepage after rain when many of the tufa climbs become impossible. If things haven't started to seep you should find something dry, though it may be pretty tough. El Bovedón stays dry in the rain but the routes are hard.

Approach notes

Drive north on the toll AP-7 to junction 61 - Oliva. Exit here and turn left towards Gandía. Drive through Bellreguard (slow) to a roundabout and take the second exit signed to Valencia. Once on the bypass take the 'Barx' exit which is after the first tunnel and before the second. Turn left under the N332 and the motorway. When you can see the crag ahead on your right, branch right, signed 'Cami de Tomba', and park below the crag. For those with less time and more cash it is faster to drive to the next junction on the motorway then head back south to the roundabout on the ring road. The current access route crosses the dry river bed up-stream from the parking. 

El Bovedón - Drive to Gandía. Continue past the turning for the main crag for 900m then turn left at the roundabout (not signed but once on the road you see signs for  'Bar Carril'). Drive on for another 900m and turn left again. Drive down here for about 450m to the second turning on the left (which is a surfaced road just past a large green gate with "Private" signs). Do not take this but park sensibly about 100-200m further on. Walk back to the private road, and follow it, past the chain across the road and continue to the end of the road and follow the path across a slope to the crag.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
most of the new climbs listed are at Bovedos. Approach instructions: If coming from Gandia crag drive past the last Bovedon junction that takes you to Bovedon parking in the villas. Continue on the Cami Meravelles Cova Negra to an obvious parking on left with space for around 10 cars. Park up. continue walking to a gated track on left, if gate closed climb wall. Walk up track, staying on left one until a dry valley to the right of a sign about cave paintings. Walk up valley to crag (20 min approach). Most route names are on the rock.
hms - 16/Mar/15
A point to note: El Bovedon faces south, not east as the guide suggests. This is clearly apparent as you can't see the sea from the cave! That means it's much hotter than the guide might leave you to believe, with only the Abracadabra wall receiving shade all day, and the majority of the crag recieving full sun. Great climbing to be had at both El Bovedon and the Gandia main crag!
Jon_Warner - 19/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Critic
2 Margarita, quan pixa 6a+ 4
3 Esperó groc 6b 5
4 Diagnosis superficial 6b * 7
5 Pasando de poli 7b  
6 Voldria morir 7a * 1
7 Ja estic mort 7a+ *  
8 Gran Diedro 5c *** 129
9 Selectiva 6c * 3
10 Espolón "why" 6c * 10
11 Megaloceras 7a 1
12 Águilas 5a ** 15
13 Piccolissima 6a ** 104
14 Tierra Lliure 5c * 9
15 P.S.A.N. 6b 14
16 Beniarrés no em diu res 5a * 90
17 Tallà 5a ** 121
18 Placa Simond 4a * 43
  Sector Hidraulics
20 Me vuelo 3c 108
21 Donde rapullo 4a * 143
22 Uber looking 4c * 170
23 What's Up? 4c 142
24 Secretitos
-
4b 7
25 Fe Ra 3c ** 178
26 Rincon y costilla
-
3a ** 9
27 Coral bajilla 5c * 247
28 Monsters of rock 7a 13
29 Pequeño saltamontes 5a * 338
30 Erupción 5a * 23
31 Pagaras amb costo 6a 5
32 S'estrena en la trena 5c 6
33 Assassí de vampiros 7a * 41
34 Negué Gorrak 7c+ * 1
35 Phythophthora cithrophthora 7b * 2
36 Quien Malonda 7a+ ** 42
37 Spherique voice 7a+ *** 42
38 Parabolic 7b 2
39 Parabolic Voice
-
7b  
40 Kortatu 7b 3
41 Viatge a Cuba 7b 5
42 Blaniulus gluttulatus 7a ** 69
43 Patatas a lo pobre 7b+ ** 18
44 Asamblea de Mojaras 7c+ 1
45 Ostia coqueta 7a+ ** 8
46 Zucaricida 6c ** 42
47 Leí del perrero 6c+ * 8
  Secto Vici
49 Fisura tal.. 6a+ ** 238
50 Pastor i porreta 6c 8
51 Niña de porcelana 6a+ ** 141
52 Gora 7a 9
53 Pa Roig 6b ** 73
54 Asquerosa coincidencia 6c ** 51
55 El sol 6b+ *** 294
56 Kin mal d'ous 7b  
57 Escorreguda precoç 6c * 10
58 Peiote de bote 6b *** 156
59 Valentet de València 6b *** 186
60 Placa de Ulaca 6b ** 47
61 Muricana 6b * 17
62 Nació 6b+ ** 41
63 Madarikatuak 6c+ * 8
64 Chiqui 6c+ * 6
65 Fes-te-ho 6a+ 18
66 En Falles no folles 6b * 8
67 Capitán Manchego 6a 15
68 Kaya 6b+ * 9
  Sector Fundicio
70 Sense opció 6b 4
71 Nupcias 6b+ ** 40
72 Milan Kundera 6a+ 92
73 Chitiri, chitiri 4c ** 217
74 La insoportable 6a * 136
75 La levedad 6a * 206
76 El ser 5a * 166
77 Bombero gorilero 6a ** 216
78 Tamborinaes 93 6a+ ** 210
79 Puntín d'Ernestín 7a 7
80 El Rigio 6b+ ** 87
81 Pepestroika 6b *** 403
82 Última Albertència 6c+ *** 102
83 Amarrada al pilló 6b+ *** 216
84 Pere 6c+ ** 41
85 Publicasion sin tradision 7b+ * 10
86 A mi no m'afecta 6c * 12
87 S'ambossa 6c 5
88 Espanya no m'apanya 7b * 9
89 En médium 7c * 2
90 Día de borratxera 7b 1
91 Joc de manos 7a 17
92 La pera 7a+ ** 8
93 Desde Abajo * 5c * 5
  Sector Potent
95 Gandia Potent One 5c 10
96 Stephen Kaka 6b+ * 48
97 Cuartet de bany 5a ** 129
98 Novatillos 5c *** 221
99 Pardillos 6a ** 17
100 P.R. 4c * 54
Climb name Grade
101 G.R. 6c+ 2
102 Maque, Popeye y la Sirla 6b+ ** 49
103 Dónde hostias putas 6b+ ** 47
104 Joputa 6b+ *** 68
105 Star fort 7b * 4
106 Tercer ull 7b * 2
107 Muluk el targuí 7a+ *** 38
108 Urbália Rurana 7b ** 23
109 Sugar glass 7b+ *** 15
110 El chico de mantenimiento
-
7a+ ** 3
111 Botoia sakatu 7c *** 15
112 Enya 7b *** 56
113 Baila al alba 7b+ ** 9
114 A la babilla 7a+ *** 113
115 L'os 7a *** 178
116 Dos super carrozas 7a+ *** 44
117 Don Diego 7a+ *** 92
118 Jaqo mata 7a+ ** 10
119 Puppi * 5c 1
120 SN 2 6b * 2
  Sector Final
122 Sopas del rei 7b * 1
123 Solta el mos 7a ** 50
124 Galló de la Susanna Alba 7a ** 62
125 Otilia resiste 7a+ 2
126 Prou d'hipocresia 7a+  
127 Groceries 7a 4
128 Andreu i Papandreu 6b+ * 19
129 A mano 7a * 20
130 Tu paquete mete
-
7b  
131 Entre cuixa i cuixa dos orelles
-
4b * 3
132 Bum bum ipaneme 5a * 90
133 Beato Andrés Hibernon 6a * 94
134 Lleones 5a * 95
135 Les putes ulleres se n'han anat a prende pel cul
-
4c * 6
136 Unnamed Route 4c 4
137 Fetiche 6c 1
138 Abu Abd Allah Muhammad 6b+ * 15
139 Sense goma no conill 6a+ ** 90
140 3/4 d'hora 6a+ ** 75
141 Vergonya 5c 25
  Sector Topdeckio
143 Pep Camarera 5a 1
144 Golondrinas 5a 1
145 Eva Luna 6c * 4
146 Derribos Arias 6b+ * 7
147 Sand Bag 7a 1
148 Boca de grimpau 6b+ * 3
149 Guatleta 6c 7
150 Queferoset 6c 1
151 Rosarito 6b 4
152 Esfínter dilatat 5c * 25
153 Sarcófago? 7b+ *  
154 Anatema maranata 7b *  
155 Celtas Cortos 6a+ ** 26
156 Guirigay 6a+ * 19
157 Gandia Topdeckio 15 6c * 3
158 Tranquilizad 7a * 1
159 Gandia Topdeckio 17 6b+ * 4
160 Descara 6b+ ** 10
161 Gandia Topdeckio 19 7a * 5
162 Boltxevique 6c ** 19
163 Vulcano 6c+ *** 16
164 Gandia Topdeckio 22 6b+ *** 38
165 Lo que sigui 6a+ * 35
166 Mal del tord 5c ** 50
167 Kamari 6a ** 61
168 Cotó-en-pels 5c ** 60
169 Gandia Topdeckio 27 5c * 43
  El Bovedon
171 De-bolted Rib 4a 2
172 Diedrículo (Bovedón Short Bulge) 6b 1
173 Bovedón Short Groove 6a  
174 Rib and Wall 7b * 3
175 Bovedón 6b Rib 6b * 8
176 Bovedón Wall Far Left
-
6a * 2
177 Bovedón Wall Left 6a * 10
178 Bovedón Wall Right 6a * 9
179 Bovedón Broccoli Wall 7a+ * 5
180 Insomni 7b * 5
181 Qu'est-ce que tu fais 7a * 2
182 Bovedón Bushes Route 1 7a+ ** 5
183 Bovedón Bushes Route 2 6c ** 7
184 Bovedón Bushes Route 3 6c * 6
185 SN 9 7a ** 9
186 Lobos 8a ** 4
187 Ave Roma
-
7b  
188 Ave Eva
-
7b  
189 Trasnochando 8b ***  
190 Farrear y corbardes 7b *** 18
191 Perpetuando 8a *** 2
192 Perpetúan mobile L1 7a+ *** 14
193 Perpetúan mobile 7c *** 12
194 Larga, dura y caliente 8a+ *** 1
195 Felicidad 8a+ ** 2
196 Arcadia 7c *** 14
197 Carnicero de Castelnovo 8a+ *** 1
198 Abradacabra 7c+ *** 7
199 Gimnasi
-
6b+  
200 Armando 8a+ *** 1
Climb name Grade
201 Malsoñando 8c ***  
202 La Negra
-
8c+ ***  
203 Mestizaje
-
8c+ ***  
204 Troglobio 8b **  
205 La Antorcha Humana
-
7b *  
206 Chocho Pocho
-
7a *  
207 Benito Camela 7b ** 2
208 Tulipunk 7b+ ** 5
209 Rica chona 6c * 10
210 Bovedóna 6b+ ** 29
211 Quin Tomas 6b ** 31
212 Hernia Fiscal 7a+ * 9
213 Tambors Llunyans 7a * 21
214 Escalada Lechunga 6a+ * 10
215 Quinto Pino 6a+ * 4
216 La de Javi
-
7c *  
217 Poquer-Mon
-
6b 1
218 Setze Tacos
-
6b *  
  Sector Bovedín
220 Muerde Almohadas
-
7a+ 3
221 Sopla Nucas
-
7b 1
222 Jabato
-
7b+ 5
223 Porcelanica
-
8a 1
224 Minidosis
-
7b+ 2
225 Cristalina
-
6c 7
226 Superdosis
-
7a+ 11
227 Saltando al vacío
-
7a 3
228 Talisman
-
7a+ 1
229 Condenados al fracaso
-
7b+ 2
230 Urano
-
7a 5
231 Nebulosa
-
6c 5
232 Por Gusto
-
6a 7
233 Por Placer
-
6b 6
234 Argonizante
-
7a 6
235 Sin descanso
-
6b+ 2
236 Antibloqueo
-
6c 1
237 Superzorra
-
6c 1
238 Kalumnias
-
7a 1
239 Polvorón crujiente
-
6b+ 1
240 Capita Moro
-
6a+ 1
241 Malaria
-
6b 3
242 Tifus
-
6b 3
243 Ébola
-
6b+ 2
244 Quirúrgika
-
7a 3
245 Cegados por el sol
-
7a+ 2
246 Más vale maña que maño
-
6b 5
247 Tirameños
-
6a 5
248 Talavarte
-
6a+ 5
249 Los bocazas
-
6b+ 1
250 Susto
-
6a 20
251 Rita
-
5c 18
252 La raspá
-
5c 13
253 Las xicas no cagan
-
5b 9
254 Unnamed Route
-
5c 2
255 Cosme
-
6a+ 11
256 Jóvenes a los 70
-
6b 11
257 La raja
-
4c 8
258 Katana
-
5b 8
259 Els piñolets
-
5b 5
260 Yin-Yan
-
5c 8
261 Contzal
-
6c 5
262 People from Alaska
-
6c 3
263 Epsilon
-
6c+ 2
264 Tocomoxo
-
7a 4
265 Lunchtime
-
7a+ 1
266 Samurai
-
7a+ 1
267 El filo
-
6c 2
268 El sendero
-
6b 1
269 Si lo sé no vengo
-
6a 2
270 Síndrome de verano
-
6a 2
271 Epi
-
5b 3
272 Blas
-
4c 2
273 Pensandoconelnabo
-
5b 2
274 Pelillos de plátano
-
5c 2
  Sector Bovedós
276 Ultima Broca
-
6b 12
277 Ultima Broca Extension
-
7a 1
278 Voyage pour un sourire
-
7a ** 16
279 Mikado 8a ** 5
280 Pecas Revoltosas
-
7c *** 10
281 Agujetas en las Tetas
-
7c+ *** 4
282 Amparonoia 8a **  
283 El Rompecalzoncillos
-
8c **  
284 El Romprebragas
-
8a *** 6
285 Bob Natural Mystic
-
7b *** 6
286 Bob Natural Mystic Extension
-
8b+ 1
287 Variante churri
-
Project 1
288 Panza arriba
-
8b  
289 La cañera
-
8a+ 1
290 Veneno Negro
-
8b  
291 El puto gabacho de los cojones
-
7b+ *** 8
292 Clases de Frances
-
7c ** 3
293 Ansia viva
-
7b+ 1
294 Viva ansia
-
7c+ ** 1
295 Hereje 6c 4
296 Ironía
-
7a  
297 La rubia legañosa
-
7b  
298 Por amor a Marte
-
7a  
299 Bob Natural - Arriba 7b+ *** 1
300 Homo Marxuquerensis * V+ vs 4b *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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