UKC

Climbs 304
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces S

Parabólica Spherique, 7a+ Gandia © Chris Froud

Crag features

Sitting above a broad orange-filled valley, the red and grey terraced walls of Gandía offer many fine climbs. The grade range is good and, although it isn't great for people leading below 6a, there are enough easier routes dotted around the crag to give a day's worth. In the sixes and sevens the crag excels, with many great routes on pocketed walls and knobbly tufas. The easier climbs are mostly on grey walls, featuring fingery climbing of a good quality. The harder routes are often superb.

The crag faces south, catches all the sun going and is sheltered, it can be hot here even in the middle of winter. The steeper areas suffer from seepage after rain when many of the tufa climbs become impossible. If things haven't started to seep you should find something dry, though it may be pretty tough. El Bovedón stays dry in the rain but the routes are hard.

Approach notes

Drive north on the toll AP-7 to junction 61 - Oliva. Exit here and turn left towards Gandía. Drive through Bellreguard (slow) to a roundabout and take the second exit signed to Valencia. Once on the bypass take the 'Barx' exit which is after the first tunnel and before the second. Turn left under the N332 and the motorway. When you can see the crag ahead on your right, branch right, signed 'Cami de Tomba', and park below the crag. For those with less time and more cash it is faster to drive to the next junction on the motorway then head back south to the roundabout on the ring road. The current access route crosses the dry river bed up-stream from the parking. 

El Bovedón - Drive to Gandía. Continue past the turning for the main crag for 900m then turn left (signed 'Bar Carril'). Drive on for another 900m and turn left again. Drive down here for about 450m to the second turning on the left (which is a surfaced road just past a large green gate). Take this and drive to the first bend and park (the rest of the road is in a very poor state). Walk to the end of the road and follow the path across a slope to the crag.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
most of the new climbs listed are at Bovedos. Approach instructions: If coming from Gandia crag drive past the last Bovedon junction that takes you to Bovedon parking in the villas. Continue on the Cami Meravelles Cova Negra to an obvious parking on left with space for around 10 cars. Park up. continue walking to a gated track on left, if gate closed climb wall. Walk up track, staying on left one until a dry valley to the right of a sign about cave paintings. Walk up valley to crag (20 min approach). Most route names are on the rock.
hms - 16/Mar/15
A point to note: El Bovedon faces south, not east as the guide suggests. This is clearly apparent as you can't see the sea from the cave! That means it's much hotter than the guide might leave you to believe, with only the Abracadabra wall receiving shade all day, and the majority of the crag recieving full sun. Great climbing to be had at both El Bovedon and the Gandia main crag!
Jon_Warner - 19/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Critic
2 Margarita, quan pixa 6a+ 4
3 Esperó groc 6b 5
4 Diagnosis superficial 6b * 7
5 Pasando de poli 7b  
6 Voldria morir 7a *  
7 Ja estic mort 7a+ *  
8 Gran Diedro 5c *** 117
9 Selectiva 6c * 3
10 Espolón "why" 6c * 10
11 Megaloceras 7a 1
12 Águilas 5a ** 14
13 Piccolissima 6a ** 91
14 Tierra Lliure 5c * 9
15 P.S.A.N. 6b 12
16 Beniarrés no em diu res 5a * 82
17 Tallà 5a ** 102
18 Placa Simond 4a * 42
  Sector Hidraulics
20 Me vuelo 3c 114
21 Donde rapullo 4a * 146
22 Uber looking 4c * 166
23 What's Up? 4c 135
24 Secretitos
-
4b 3
25 Fe Ra 3c ** 161
26 Rincon y costilla
-
3a ** 8
27 Coral bajilla 5c * 233
28 Monsters of rock 7a 12
29 Pequeño saltamontes 5a * 312
30 Erupción 5a * 21
31 Pagaras amb costo 6a 4
32 S'estrena en la trena 5c 5
33 Assassí de vampiros 7a * 39
34 Negué Gorrak 7c+ * 1
35 Phythophthora cithrophthora 7b * 2
36 Quien Malonda 7a+ ** 41
37 Spherique voice 7a+ *** 41
38 Parabolic 7b 1
39 Parabolic Voice
-
7b  
40 Kortatu 7b 3
41 Viatge a Cuba 7b 5
42 Blaniulus gluttulatus 7a ** 62
43 Patatas a lo pobre 7b+ ** 16
44 Asamblea de Mojaras 7c+ 1
45 Ostia coqueta 7a+ ** 6
46 Zucaricida 6c ** 37
47 Leí del perrero 6c+ * 6
  Secto Vici
49 Fisura tal.. 6a+ ** 217
50 Pastor i porreta 6c 8
51 Niña de porcelana 6a+ ** 116
52 Gora 7a 7
53 Pa Roig 6b ** 67
54 Asquerosa coincidencia 6c ** 48
55 El sol 6b+ *** 264
56 Kin mal d'ous 7b  
57 Escorreguda precoç 6c * 9
58 Peiote de bote 6b *** 142
59 Valentet de València 6b *** 159
60 Placa de Ulaca 6b ** 41
61 Muricana 6b * 18
62 Nació 6b+ ** 37
63 Madarikatuak 6c+ * 7
64 Chiqui 6c+ * 6
65 Fes-te-ho 6a+ 12
66 En Falles no folles 6b * 8
67 Capitán Manchego 6a 12
68 Kaya 6b+ * 9
  Sector Fundicio
70 Sense opció 6b 3
71 Nupcias 6b+ ** 38
72 Milan Kundera 6a+ 80
73 Chitiri, chitiri 4c ** 194
74 La insoportable 6a * 113
75 La levedad 6a * 175
76 El ser 5a * 146
77 Bombero gorilero 6a ** 182
78 Tamborinaes 93 6a+ ** 193
79 Puntín d'Ernestín 7a 3
80 El Rigio 6b+ ** 73
81 Pepestroika 6b *** 337
82 Última Albertència 6c+ *** 86
83 Amarrada al pilló 6b+ *** 196
84 Pere 6c+ ** 38
85 Publicasion sin tradision 7b+ * 7
86 A mi no m'afecta 6c * 11
87 S'ambossa 6c 5
88 Espanya no m'apanya 7b * 8
89 En médium 7c * 1
90 Día de borratxera 7b 1
91 Joc de manos 7a 12
92 La pera 7a+ ** 6
  Sector Potent
94 Gandia Potent One 5c 7
95 Stephen Kaka 6b+ * 40
96 Cuartet de bany 5a ** 113
97 Novatillos 5c *** 180
98 Pardillos 6a ** 3
99 P.R. 4c * 49
Climb name Grade
100 G.R. 6c+ 2
101 Maque, Popeye y la Sirla 6b+ ** 40
102 Dónde hostias putas 6b+ ** 38
103 Joputa 6b+ *** 57
104 Star fort 7b * 2
105 Tercer ull 7b * 2
106 Muluk el targuí 7a+ *** 31
107 Urbália Rurana 7b ** 16
108 Sugar glass 7b+ *** 13
109 El chico de mantenimiento
-
7a+ ** 3
110 Botoia sakatu 7c *** 13
111 Enya 7b *** 47
112 Baila al alba 7b+ ** 8
113 A la babilla 7a+ *** 94
114 L'os 7a *** 156
115 Dos super carrozas 7a+ *** 41
116 Don Diego 7a+ *** 84
117 Jaqo mata 7a+ ** 9
118 SN 2 * 6b * 1
  Sector Final
120 Sopas del rei 7b * 1
121 Solta el mos 7a ** 40
122 Galló de la Susanna Alba 7a ** 56
123 Otilia resiste 7a+ 1
124 Prou d'hipocresia 7a+  
125 Groceries 7a 4
126 Andreu i Papandreu 6b+ * 19
127 A mano 7a * 20
128 Tu paquete mete
-
7b  
129 Entre cuixa i cuixa dos orelles
-
4b * 3
130 Bum bum ipaneme 5a * 77
131 Beato Andrés Hibernon 6a * 86
132 Lleones 5a * 80
133 Les putes ulleres se n'han anat a prende pel cul
-
4c * 3
134 Unnamed Route 4c 2
135 Fetiche 6c 1
136 Abu Abd Allah Muhammad 6b+ * 14
137 Sense goma no conill 6a+ ** 78
138 3/4 d'hora 6a+ ** 68
139 Vergonya 5c 23
  Sector Topdeckio
141 Pep Camarera 5a 1
142 Golondrinas 5a 1
143 Eva Luna 6c * 4
144 Derribos Arias 6b+ * 7
145 Sand Bag 7a 1
146 Boca de grimpau 6b+ * 3
147 Guatleta 6c 7
148 Queferoset 6c 1
149 Rosarito 6b 4
150 Esfínter dilatat 5c * 24
151 Sarcófago? 7b+ *  
152 Anatema maranata 7b *  
153 Celtas Cortos 6a+ ** 22
154 Guirigay 6a+ * 18
155 Gandia Topdeckio 15 6c * 3
156 Tranquilizad 7a * 1
157 Gandia Topdeckio 17 6b+ * 4
158 Descara 6b+ ** 9
159 Gandia Topdeckio 19 7a * 5
160 Boltxevique 6c ** 17
161 Vulcano 6c+ *** 14
162 Gandia Topdeckio 22 6b+ *** 34
163 Lo que sigui 6a+ * 32
164 Mal del tord 5c ** 44
165 Kamari 6a ** 57
166 Cotó-en-pels 5c ** 56
167 Gandia Topdeckio 27 5c * 39
  El Bovedon
169 De-bolted Rib 4a 2
170 Diedrículo (Bovedón Short Bulge) 6b 2
171 Bovedón Short Groove 6a  
172 Rib and Wall 7b * 2
173 Bovedón 6b Rib 6b * 8
174 Bovedón Wall Far Left
-
6a * 1
175 Bovedón Wall Left 6a * 9
176 Bovedón Wall Right 6a * 7
177 Bovedón Broccoli Wall 7a+ * 3
178 Insomni 7b * 2
179 Qu'est-ce que tu fais 7a * 2
180 Bovedón Bushes Route 1 7a+ ** 2
181 Bovedón Bushes Route 2 6c ** 6
182 Bovedón Bushes Route 3 6c * 3
183 SN 9 7a ** 4
184 Lobos 8a ** 4
185 Ave Roma
-
7b  
186 Ave Eva
-
7b  
187 Trasnochando 8b ***  
188 Farrear y corbardes 7b *** 11
189 Perpetuando 8a *** 2
190 Perpetúan mobile L1 7a+ *** 6
191 Perpetúan mobile 7c *** 9
192 Larga, dura y caliente 8a+ *** 1
193 Felicidad 8a+ ** 2
194 Arcadia 7c *** 12
195 Carnicero de Castelnovo 8a+ *** 1
196 Abradacabra 7c+ *** 5
197 Gimnasi
-
6b+  
198 Armando 8a+ ***  
Climb name Grade
199 Malsoñando 8c ***  
200 La Negra
-
8c+ ***  
201 Mestizaje
-
8c+ ***  
202 Troglobio 8b **  
203 La Antorcha Humana
-
7b *  
204 Chocho Pocho
-
7a *  
205 Benito Camela 7b ** 2
206 Tulipunk 7b+ ** 4
207 Rica chona 6c * 9
208 Bovedóna 6b+ ** 26
209 Quin Tomas 6b ** 25
210 Hernia Fiscal 7a+ * 8
211 Tambors Llunyans 7a * 18
212 Escalada Lechunga 6a+ * 10
213 Quinto Pino 6a+ * 4
214 La de Javi
-
7c *  
215 Poquer-Mon
-
6b  
216 Setze Tacos
-
6b *  
  Sector Bovedín
218 Muerde Almohadas
-
7a+  
219 Sopla Nucas
-
7b  
220 Jabato
-
7b+ 1
221 Porcelanica
-
8a  
222 Minidosis
-
7b+  
223 Cristalina
-
6c 1
224 Superdosis
-
7a+ 7
225 Saltando al vacío
-
7a  
226 Talisman
-
7a+  
227 Condenados al fracaso
-
7b+  
228 Urano
-
7a 1
229 Nebulosa
-
6c 1
230 Por Gusto
-
6a 2
231 Por Placer
-
6b 3
232 Argonizante
-
7a 2
233 Sin descanso
-
6b+  
234 Antibloqueo
-
6c  
235 Superzorra
-
6c  
236 Kalumnias
-
7a  
237 Polvorón crujiente
-
6b+  
238 Capita Moro
-
6a+  
239 Malaria
-
6b 1
240 Tifus
-
6b 1
241 Ébola
-
6b+ 1
242 Quirúrgika
-
7a  
243 Cegados por el sol
-
7a+ 1
244 Más vale maña que maño
-
6b 3
245 Tirameños
-
6a 4
246 Talavarte
-
6a+ 2
247 Los bocazas
-
6b+  
248 Susto
-
6a 11
249 Rita
-
5c 11
250 La raspá
-
5c 8
251 Las xicas no cagan
-
5b 3
252 Unnamed Route
-
5c  
253 Cosme
-
6a+ 3
254 Jóvenes a los 70
-
6b 5
255 La raja
-
4c 5
256 Katana
-
5b 5
257 Els piñolets
-
5b 1
258 Yin-Yan
-
5c 2
259 Contzal
-
6c  
260 People from Alaska
-
6c 2
261 Epsilon
-
6c+ 1
262 Tocomoxo
-
7a  
263 Lunchtime
-
7a+  
264 Samurai
-
7a+  
265 El filo
-
6c  
266 El sendero
-
6b  
267 Si lo sé no vengo
-
6a  
268 Síndrome de verano
-
6a  
269 Epi
-
5b  
270 Blas
-
4c  
271 Pensandoconelnabo
-
5b  
272 Pelillos de plátano
-
5c  
  Sector Bovedós
274 Ultima Broca
-
6b 7
275 Ultima Broca Extension
-
7a 1
276 Voyage pour un sourire
-
7a 8
277 Mikado
-
8a 3
278 Pecas Revoltosas
-
7c+ 6
279 Agujetas en las Tetas
-
7c+ 4
280 Amparonoia 8a **  
281 El Rompecalzoncillos
-
8c **  
282 El Romprebragas
-
8a *** 3
283 Bob Natural Mystic
-
7b *** 3
284 Bob Natural Mystic Extension
-
8b+  
285 Variante churri
-
Project  
286 Panza arriba
-
8b  
287 La cañera
-
8a+  
288 Veneno Negro
-
8b  
289 El puto gabacho de los cojones
-
7b+ *** 5
290 Clases de Frances
-
7c ** 3
291 Ansia viva
-
7b+  
292 Viva ansia
-
7c+ ** 1
293 Hereje 6c 1
294 Ironía
-
7a  
295 La rubia legañosa
-
7b  
296 Por amor a Marte
-
7a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rich Kirby