UKC

Climbs 304
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 129m a.s.l
Faces S

Parabólica Spherique, 7a+ Gandia © Chris Froud

Crag features

Sitting above a broad orange-filled valley, the red and grey terraced walls of Gandía offer many fine climbs. The grade range is good and, although it isn't great for people leading below 6a, there are enough easier routes dotted around the crag to give a day's worth. In the sixes and sevens the crag excels, with many great routes on pocketed walls and knobbly tufas. The easier climbs are mostly on grey walls, featuring fingery climbing of a good quality. The harder routes are often superb.

The crag faces south, catches all the sun going and is sheltered, it can be hot here even in the middle of winter. The steeper areas suffer from seepage after rain when many of the tufa climbs become impossible. If things haven't started to seep you should find something dry, though it may be pretty tough. El Bovedón stays dry in the rain but the routes are hard.

Approach notes

Drive north on the toll AP-7 to junction 61 - Oliva. Exit here and turn left towards Gandía. Drive through Bellreguard (slow) to a roundabout and take the second exit signed to Valencia. Once on the bypass take the 'Barx' exit which is after the first tunnel and before the second. Turn left under the N332 and the motorway. When you can see the crag ahead on your right, branch right, signed 'Cami de Tomba', and park below the crag. For those with less time and more cash it is faster to drive to the next junction on the motorway then head back south to the roundabout on the ring road. The current access route crosses the dry river bed up-stream from the parking. 

El Bovedón - Drive to Gandía. Continue past the turning for the main crag for 900m then turn left (signed 'Bar Carril'). Drive on for another 900m and turn left again. Drive down here for about 450m to the second turning on the left (which is a surfaced road just past a large green gate). Take this and drive to the first bend and park (the rest of the road is in a very poor state). Walk to the end of the road and follow the path across a slope to the crag.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
most of the new climbs listed are at Bovedos. Approach instructions: If coming from Gandia crag drive past the last Bovedon junction that takes you to Bovedon parking in the villas. Continue on the Cami Meravelles Cova Negra to an obvious parking on left with space for around 10 cars. Park up. continue walking to a gated track on left, if gate closed climb wall. Walk up track, staying on left one until a dry valley to the right of a sign about cave paintings. Walk up valley to crag (20 min approach). Most route names are on the rock.
hms - 16/Mar/15
A point to note: El Bovedon faces south, not east as the guide suggests. This is clearly apparent as you can't see the sea from the cave! That means it's much hotter than the guide might leave you to believe, with only the Abracadabra wall receiving shade all day, and the majority of the crag recieving full sun. Great climbing to be had at both El Bovedon and the Gandia main crag!
Jon_Warner - 19/Oct/14
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Critic
2 Margarita, quan pixa 6a+ 4
3 Esperó groc 6b 4
4 Diagnosis superficial 6b * 6
5 Pasando de poli 7b  
6 Voldria morir 7a *  
7 Ja estic mort 7a+ *  
8 Gran Diedro 5c *** 109
9 Selectiva 6c * 3
10 Espolón "why" 6c * 9
11 Megaloceras 7a 1
12 Águilas 5a ** 13
13 Piccolissima 6a ** 89
14 Tierra Lliure 5c * 8
15 P.S.A.N. 6b 11
16 Beniarrés no em diu res 5a * 79
17 Tallà 5a ** 98
18 Placa Simond 4a * 42
  Sector Hidraulics
20 Me vuelo 3c 111
21 Donde rapullo 4a * 142
22 Uber looking 4c * 161
23 What's Up? 4c 129
24 Fe Ra 3c ** 155
25 Coral bajilla 5c * 228
26 Monsters of rock 7a 12
27 Pequeño saltamontes 5a * 303
28 Erupción 5a * 21
29 Pagaras amb costo 6a 4
30 S'estrena en la trena 5c 5
31 Assassí de vampiros 7a * 38
32 Negué Gorrak 7c+ * 2
33 Phythophthora cithrophthora 7b * 2
34 Quien Malonda 7a+ ** 38
35 Spherique voice 7a+ *** 41
36 Parabolic 7b 1
37 Parabolic Voice
-
7b  
38 Kortatu 7b 3
39 Viatge a Cuba 7b 5
40 Blaniulus gluttulatus 7a ** 61
41 Patatas a lo pobre 7b+ ** 15
42 Asamblea de Mojaras 7c+  
43 Ostia coqueta 7a+ ** 5
44 Zucaricida 6c ** 36
45 Leí del perrero 6c+ * 6
  Secto Vici
47 Fisura tal.. 6a+ ** 210
48 Pastor i porreta 6c 8
49 Niña de porcelana 6a+ ** 113
50 Gora 7a 7
51 Pa Roig 6b ** 64
52 Asquerosa coincidencia 6c ** 46
53 El sol 6b+ *** 246
54 Kin mal d'ous 7b  
55 Escorreguda precoç 6c * 7
56 Peiote de bote 6b *** 136
57 Valentet de València 6b *** 156
58 Placa de Ulaca 6b ** 41
59 Muricana 6b * 18
60 Nació 6b+ ** 34
61 Madarikatuak 6c+ * 7
62 Chiqui 6c+ * 6
63 Fes-te-ho 6a+ 11
64 En Falles no folles 6b * 8
65 Capitán Manchego 6a 11
66 Kaya 6b+ * 8
  Sector Fundicio
68 Sense opció 6b 3
69 Nupcias 6b+ ** 37
70 Milan Kundera 6a+ 78
71 Chitiri, chitiri 4c ** 188
72 La insoportable 6a * 106
73 La levedad 6a * 168
74 El ser 5a * 137
75 Bombero gorilero 6a ** 172
76 Tamborinaes 93 6a+ ** 185
77 Puntín d'Ernestín 7a 3
78 El Rigio 6b+ ** 70
79 Pepestroika 6b *** 325
80 Última Albertència 6c+ *** 83
81 Amarrada al pilló 6b+ *** 192
82 Pere 6c+ ** 37
83 Publicasion sin tradision 7b+ * 7
84 A mi no m'afecta 6c * 11
85 S'ambossa 6c 5
86 Espanya no m'apanya 7b * 8
87 En médium 7c * 1
88 Día de borratxera 7b 1
89 Joc de manos 7a 11
90 La pera 7a+ ** 4
  Sector Potent
92 Gandia Potent One 5c 7
93 Stephen Kaka 6b+ * 40
94 Cuartet de bany 5a ** 111
95 Novatillos 5c *** 175
96 P.R. 4c * 49
97 G.R. 6c+ 2
98 Maque, Popeye y la Sirla 6b+ ** 40
99 Dónde hostias putas 6b+ ** 38
100 Joputa 6b+ *** 51
101 Star fort 7b * 2
102 Tercer ull 7b * 2
103 Muluk el targuí 7a+ *** 30
104 Urbália Rurana 7b ** 15
105 Sugar glass 7b+ *** 13
Climb name Grade
106 El chico de mantenimiento
-
7a+ ** 3
107 Botoia sakatu 7c *** 12
108 Enya 7b *** 43
109 Baila al alba 7b+ ** 8
110 A la babilla 7a+ *** 93
111 L'os 7a *** 153
112 Dos super carrozas 7a+ *** 40
113 Don Diego 7a+ *** 83
114 Jaqo mata 7a+ ** 8
115 Rib right of Novatilos * 6a ** 2
  Sector Final
117 Sopas del rei 7b *  
118 Solta el mos 7a ** 40
119 Galló de la Susanna Alba 7a ** 55
120 Otilia resiste 7a+ 1
121 Prou d'hipocresia 7a+  
122 Groceries 7a 4
123 Andreu i Papandreu 6b+ * 18
124 A mano 7a * 19
125 Bum bum ipaneme 5a * 74
126 Beato Andrés Hibernon 6a * 85
127 Lleones 5a * 79
128 Fetiche 6c 1
129 Abu Abd Allah Muhammad 6b+ * 14
130 Sense goma no conill 6a+ ** 74
131 3/4 d'hora 6a+ ** 66
132 Vergonya 5c 22
  Sector Topdeckio
134 Pep Camarera 5a 1
135 Golondrinas 5a 1
136 Eva Luna 6c * 4
137 Derribos Arias 6b+ * 6
138 Sand Bag 7a 1
139 Boca de grimpau 6b+ * 3
140 Guatleta 6c 5
141 Queferoset 6c 1
142 Rosarito 6b 4
143 Esfínter dilatat 5c * 23
144 Sarcófago? 7b+ *  
145 Anatema maranata 7b *  
146 Celtas Cortos 6a+ ** 19
147 Guirigay 6a+ * 16
148 Gandia Topdeckio 15 6c * 2
149 Tranquilizad 7a * 1
150 Gandia Topdeckio 17 6b+ * 4
151 Descara 6b+ ** 7
152 Gandia Topdeckio 19 7a * 3
153 Boltxevique 6c ** 15
154 Vulcano 6c+ *** 11
155 Gandia Topdeckio 22 6b+ *** 29
156 Lo que sigui 6a+ * 27
157 Mal del tord 5c ** 41
158 Kamari 6a ** 52
159 Cotó-en-pels 5c ** 53
160 Gandia Topdeckio 27 5c * 36
  El Bovedon
162 De-bolted Rib 4a 2
163 Diedrículo (Bovedón Short Bulge) 6b 2
164 Bovedón Short Groove (SN1) 6a  
165 Rib and Wall 7b * 2
166 Bovedón 6b Rib 6b * 8
167 Bovedón Wall Left 6a * 9
168 Bovedón Wall Right 6a * 7
169 Bovedón Broccoli Wall 7a+ * 3
170 Insomni 7b * 2
171 Qu'est-ce que tu fais 7a * 2
172 Bovedón Bushes Route 1 7a+ ** 2
173 Bovedón Bushes Route 2 6c ** 6
174 Bovedón Bushes Route 3 6c * 3
175 Lobos 8a ** 3
176 Ave Roma
-
7b  
177 Ave Eva
-
7b  
178 Trasnochando 8b ***  
179 Farrear y corbardes 7b *** 10
180 Perpetuando 8a *** 2
181 Perpetúan mobile L1 7a+ *** 5
182 Perpetúan mobile 7c *** 9
183 Larga, dura y caliente 8a+ *** 1
184 Arcadia 7c *** 12
185 Carnicero de Castelnovo 8a+ *** 1
186 Abradacabra 7c+ *** 5
187 Gimnasi
-
6b+  
188 Armando 8a+ ***  
189 Malsoñando 8c ***  
190 La Negra
-
8c+ ***  
191 Mestizaje
-
8c+ ***  
192 Troglobio 8b **  
193 La Antorcha Humana
-
7b *  
194 Chocho Pocho
-
7a *  
195 Benito Camela 7b ** 2
196 Tulipunk 7b+ ** 2
197 Rica chona 6c * 9
198 Bovedóna 6b+ ** 26
199 Quin Tomas 6b ** 25
200 Hernia Fiscal 7a+ * 7
201 Tambors Llunyans 7a * 17
202 Escalada Lechunga 6a+ * 10
203 Quinto Pino 6a+ * 4
204 La de Javi
-
7c *  
205 Poquer-Mon
-
6b  
206 Setze Tacos
-
6b *  
207 Felicidad * 8a+ ** 1
  Other Routes (Location uncertain)
209 Ultima Broca part 1
-
6b ** 7
210 Ultima Broca (L1 & 2)
-
7a 1
Climb name Grade
211 Voyage pour un sourire
-
7a ** 8
212 Mikado
-
8a ** 3
213 Pecas Revoltosas
-
7c *** 6
214 Agujetas en las Tetas
-
7c+ *** 4
215 Amparonoia 8a **  
216 La Rompa Calzoncillas
-
8c **  
217 El Romprebragas
-
8a *** 3
218 Bob Natural Mystic
-
7b *** 3
219 Bob Natural Mystic (L1 & 2)
-
8b+  
220 Banzo Arribo Direct Project  
221 Banzo Arribo (RH start)
-
8b  
222 La Canera 8a+  
223 Venemo Negro
-
8b  
224 El Puto Gabacho de los Cojones
-
7b+ *** 5
225 Clases de Frances
-
7c+ ** 3
226 Anjia Viva
-
7c+ ** 1
227 Viva el Anjia
-
7b+  
228 Hereje Project 1
229 Ironia
-
6c+  
230 La Rubia Leganosa 7a+  
231 Por Amor a Marte 7b+  
232 ? In between Fe Ra & Coral bajilla 5a * 4
233 No name 1 5b * 1
234 No Name 2 4c 2
235 Bovedin: Tira Menos
-
6a+ 1
236 Bovedin: Mas Vale Mana Que Mano
-
6b * 2
237 Bovedin: Nebulosa
-
6c+ 1
238 Bovedin: Superdosis
-
7b 1
239 SN 9 7a ** 4
240 Rita 6a *** 10
241 La Raspa 6a 7
242 Susto 6a+ *** 10
243 Cosme
-
6b ** 2
244 Tallavarte
-
6b ** 1
245 Tiramenos 6b ** 2
246 Sacretitos
-
4b 2
247 Saltamontes
-
5b 3
248 Yin-Yan
-
5c 2
249 Els Pinolets
-
5b 1
250 Jovenes a los 70
-
6b 4
251 No name 3 - left of no name 2
-
4c ** 2
252 No name 4 left of Bum Bum Ipanema
-
4b * 2
253 La Raja 4c 5
254 Las chicas 5c 3
255 Katana 5b 5
256 Bovedon slightly further left wall * 6a * 1
  Bovedin Left
  Bovedin Right
259 Soplanucas *
-
7b  
260 Jabato *
-
7c 1
261 Porcelania *
-
8a  
262 Minidosis *
-
7a+  
263 Cristalina *
-
6b+ 1
264 Superdosis *
-
7a+ 6
265 Saltando al vagio *
-
7a  
266 Talisman *
-
7a  
267 El contenado al Fracaso *
-
7b  
268 Nebulosa *
-
6c+  
269 Por Gusto *
-
6a 2
270 Por Placer *
-
6b 3
271 Argonizante *
-
7a 2
272 Sin descanso *
-
6b+  
273 Antibloqueo *
-
6c  
274 Superzorra *
-
6c+  
275 Kalumnias *
-
7a  
276 Polvoron crujiente *
-
6c  
277 Capita Moro *
-
6a+  
278 Malaria *
-
6b 1
279 Tifus *
-
6b+ 1
280 Ebola *
-
6c 1
281 Quirurgika *
-
7a+  
282 Cegados por el sol *
-
7b 1
283 Mas vale mana que mano *
-
6a+ 1
284 Tiramenos *
-
6a 1
285 Talaverte *
-
6a+ 1
286 Los Bouzas *
-
6b+  
287 Susto *
-
6a+ 1
288 Rita *
-
6a 1
289 La Raspa *
-
6a 1
290 Las xicas no cagan *
-
5c  
291 unnamed route *
-
5c  
292 Cosme *
-
6b 1
293 Jovenes a los 70 *
-
6b 1
294 La raga *
-
5a  
295 Katana *
-
5b  
296 Els pinyolet *
-
5b  
297 Yin yan *
-
5c  
298 Gontzal *
-
6c  
299 Urano 7a+ ** 1
300 People from Alaska *
-
6c+ 2
301 Epsilon *
-
7a 1
302 Toromotxo *
-
7a+  
303 Lunchtime *
-
7a+  
304 Samurai *
-
7a  
305 El filo *
-
6c  
306 El sendero *
-
6b  
307 Silo seno vengo *
-
6a  
308 Sindrome de vegano *
-
6a  
309 Epi *
-
5b  
310 Blas *
-
5a  
311 Pellilos de platano *
-
5c  
312 Pensandoconelnavo *
-
6a+  
313 Rincon y costilla
-
3a ** 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Rich Kirby