Climbs 247
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Parabólica Spherique, 7a+ Gandia © Chris Froud

Crag features

Sitting above a broad orange-filled valley, the red and grey terraced walls of Gandía offer many fine climbs. The grade range is good and, although it isn't great for people leading below 6a, there are enough easier routes dotted around the crag to give a day's worth. In the sixes and sevens the crag excels, with many great routes on pocketed walls and knobbly tufas. The easier climbs are mostly on grey walls, featuring fingery climbing of a good quality. The harder routes are often superb.

The crag faces south, catches all the sun going and is sheltered, it can be hot here even in the middle of winter. The steeper areas suffer from seepage after rain when many of the tufa climbs become impossible. If things haven't started to seep you should find something dry, though it may be pretty tough. El Bovedón stays dry in the rain but the routes are hard.

Approach notes

Drive north on the toll AP-7 to junction 61 - Oliva. Exit here and turn left towards Gandía. Drive through Bellreguard (slow) to a roundabout and take the second exit signed to Valencia. Once on the bypass take the 'Barx' exit which is after the first tunnel and before the second. Turn left under the N332 and the motorway. When you can see the crag ahead on your right, branch right, signed 'Cami de Tomba', and park below the crag. For those with less time and more cash it is faster to drive to the next junction on the motorway then head back south to the roundabout on the ring road. The current access route crosses the dry river bed up-stream from the parking. 

El Bovedón - Drive to Gandía. Continue past the turning for the main crag for 900m then turn left (signed 'Bar Carril'). Drive on for another 900m and turn left again. Drive down here for about 450m to the second turning on the left (which is a surfaced road just past a large green gate). Take this and drive to the first bend and park (the rest of the road is in a very poor state). Walk to the end of the road and follow the path across a slope to the crag.

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
most of the new climbs listed are at Bovedos. Approach instructions: If coming from Gandia crag drive past the last Bovedon junction that takes you to Bovedon parking in the villas. Continue on the Cami Meravelles Cova Negra to an obvious parking on left with space for around 10 cars. Park up. continue walking to a gated track on left, if gate closed climb wall. Walk up track, staying on left one until a dry valley to the right of a sign about cave paintings. Walk up valley to crag (20 min approach). Most route names are on the rock.
hms - 16/Mar/15
A point to note: El Bovedon faces south, not east as the guide suggests. This is clearly apparent as you can't see the sea from the cave! That means it's much hotter than the guide might leave you to believe, with only the Abracadabra wall receiving shade all day, and the majority of the crag recieving full sun. Great climbing to be had at both El Bovedon and the Gandia main crag!
Jon_Warner - 19/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sector Critic 
2Margarita, quan pixa6a+ 4
3Esperó groc6b 4
4Diagnosis superficial6b *6
5Pasando de poli7b  
6Voldria morir7a * 
7Ja estic mort7a+ * 
8Gran Diedro5c ***95
9Selectiva6c *2
10Espolón "why"6c *9
11Megaloceras7a 1
12Águilas5a **12
13Piccolissima6a **80
14Tierra Lliure5c *8
15P.S.A.N.6b 11
16Beniarrés no em diu res5a *73
17Tallà5a **88
18Placa Simond4a *38
 Sector Hidraulics 
20Me vuelo3+ 80
21Donde rapullo4a *108
22Uber looking4c *125
23What's Up?4c 102
24Fe Ra3+ **138
25Coral bajilla5c *195
26Monsters of rock7a 11
27Pequeño saltamontes5a *267
28Erupción5a *22
29Pagaras amb costo6a 4
30S'estrena en la trena5c 5
31Assassí de vampiros7a *37
32Negué Gorrak7c+ *2
33Phythophthora cithrophthora7b *2
34Quien Malonda7a+ **33
35Spherique voice7a+ ***37
36Parabolic7b 1
37Parabolic Voice
-
7b  
38Kortatu7b 3
39Viatge a Cuba7b 5
40Blaniulus gluttulatus7a **55
41Patatas a lo pobre7b+ **15
42Asamblea de Mojaras7c+  
43Ostia coqueta7a+ **5
44Zucaricida6c **32
45Leí del perrero6c+ *6
 Secto Vici 
47Fisura tal..6a+ **189
48Pastor i porreta6c 7
49Niña de porcelana6a+ **100
50Gora7a 5
51Pa Roig6b **61
52Asquerosa coincidencia6c **43
53El sol6b+ ***225
54Kin mal d'ous7b  
55Escorreguda precoç6c *6
56Peiote de bote6b ***127
57Valentet de València6b ***135
58Placa de Ulaca6b **36
59Muricana6b *15
60Nació6b+ **29
61Madarikatuak6c+ *6
62Chiqui6c+ *6
63Fes-te-ho6a+ 9
64En Falles no folles6b *5
65Capitán Manchego6a 9
66Kaya6b+ *6
 Sector Fundicio 
68Sense opció6b 2
69Nupcias6b+ **32
70Milan Kundera6a+ 70
71Chitiri, chitiri4c **167
72La insoportable6a *98
73La levedad6a *148
74El ser5a *124
75Bombero gorilero6a **153
76Tamborinaes 936a+ **168
77Puntín d'Ernestín7a 2
78El Rigio6b+ **54
79Pepestroika6b ***272
80Última Albertència6c+ ***73
81Amarrada al pilló6b+ ***166
82Pere6c+ **34
83Publicasion sin tradision7b+ *6
84A mi no m'afecta6c *11
85S'ambossa6c 5
86Espanya no m'apanya7b *8
87En médium7c *1
88Día de borratxera7b  
89Joc de manos7a 8
90La pera *7a+ **1
 Sector Potent 
92Gandia Potent One5c 7
93Stephen Kaka6b+ *33
94Cuartet de bany5a **96
95Novatillos5c ***149
96P.R.4c *47
97G.R.6c+ 2
98Maque, Popeye y la Sirla6b+ **33
99Dónde hostias putas6b+ **32
100Joputa6b+ ***42
101Star fort7b *1
102Tercer ull7b *2
103Muluk el targuí7a+ ***26
104Urbália Rurana7b **15
105Sugar glass7b+ ***12
106El chico de mantenimiento
-
7a+ **2
107Botoia sakatu7c ***10
108Enya7b ***39
109Baila al alba7b+ **8
110A la babilla7a+ ***84
111L'os7a ***142
112Dos super carrozas7a+ ***39
113Don Diego7a+ ***78
114Jaqo mata7a+ **8
 Sector Final 
116Sopas del rei7b * 
117Solta el mos7a **40
118Galló de la Susanna Alba7a **53
119Otilia resiste7a+ 1
120Prou d'hipocresia7a+  
121Groceries7a 1
122Andreu i Papandreu6b+ *16
123A mano7a *18
124Bum bum ipaneme5a *67
125Beato Andrés Hibernon6a *77
126Lleones5a *72
127Fetiche6c 1
128Abu Abd Allah Muhammad6b+ *14
129Sense goma no conill6a+ **65
1303/4 d'hora6a+ **62
131Vergonya5c 19
 Sector Topdeckio 
133Pep Camarera5a 1
134Golondrinas5a 1
135Eva Luna6c *4
136Derribos Arias6b+ *6
137Sand Bag7a 1
138Boca de grimpau6b+ *3
139Guatleta6c 5
140Queferoset6c 1
141Rosarito6b 4
142Esfínter dilatat5c *20
143Sarcófago?7b+ * 
144Anatema maranata7b * 
145Celtas Cortos6a+ **19
146Guirigay6a+ *12
147Gandia Topdeckio 156c *1
148Tranquilizad7a *1
149Gandia Topdeckio 176b+ *3
150Descara6b+ **7
151Gandia Topdeckio 197a *2
152Boltxevique6c **10
153Vulcano6c+ ***10
154Gandia Topdeckio 226b+ ***24
155Lo que sigui6a+ *25
156Mal del tord5c **35
157Kamari6a **47
158Cotó-en-pels5c **45
159Gandia Topdeckio 275c *27
 El Bovedon 
161De-bolted Rib4a 2
162Diedrículo (Bovedón Short Bulge)6b 2
163Bovedón Short Groove (SN1)6a  
164Rib and Wall7b *1
165Bovedón 6b Rib6b *6
166Bovedón Wall Left6a *7
167Bovedón Wall Right6a *6
168Bovedón Broccoli Wall7a+ *1
169Insomni7b * 
170Qu'est-ce que tu fais7a *2
171Bovedón Bushes Route 17a+ **1
172Bovedón Bushes Route 26c **4
173Bovedón Bushes Route 36c *3
174Lobos8a **2
175Ave Roma
-
7b  
176Ave Eva
-
7b  
177Trasnochando8b *** 
178Farrear y corbardes7b ***9
179Perpetúan mobile7c ***8
180Larga, dura y caliente8a+ *** 
181Arcadia7c ***10
182Carnicero de Castelnovo8a+ ***1
183Abradacabra7c+ ***4
184Gimnasi
-
6b+  
185Armando8a+ *** 
186Malsoñando8c *** 
187La Negra
-
8c+ *** 
188Mestizaje
-
8c+ *** 
189Troglobio8b ** 
190La Antorcha Humana
-
7b * 
191Chocho Pocho
-
7a * 
192Benito Camela7b **2
193Tulipunk7b+ **2
194Rica chona6c *7
195Bovedóna6b+ **22
196Quin Tomas6b **20
197Hernia Fiscal7a+ *5
198Tambors Llunyans7a *12
199Escalada Lechunga6a+ *8
200Quinto Pino6a+ *2
201La de Javi
-
7c * 
202Poquer-Mon
-
6b  
203Setze Tacos
-
6b * 
 Other Routes (Location uncertain) 
205Ultima Broca part 1
-
6a+ 4
206Ultima Broca (L1 & 2)
-
7a 1
207Voyage pour un sourire
-
7a **5
208Bob Natural Mystic
-
7b ***2
209El Puto Gabacho de los Cojones
-
7b+ *3
210Pecas Revoltosas
-
7c ***3
211Agujetas en las Tetas
-
7c+ ***2
212El Romprebragas
-
8a ***2
213Dedos5b 1
214Rincon y costilla
-
3 **1
215Mikado
-
8a 1
216AmparanoiaProject  
217La Rampa CalzoncillasProject  
218Bob Natural Mystic (L1 & 2)
-
8b+  
219Banzo Arribo DirectProject  
220Banzo Arribo (RH start)
-
8b  
221La Canera8a+  
222Venemo Negro
-
8b  
223Clases de Frances
-
7c+ 2
224Anjia Viva
-
7c+  
225Viva el Anjia
-
7b+  
226HerejeProject 1
227Ironia
-
6c+  
228La Rubia Leganosa7a+  
229Por Amor a Marte7b+  
230Perpetúan mobile L1 *7a+ ***2
231? In between Fe Ra & Coral bajilla *5a *1
232No name 1 *5b *1
233No Name 2 *4c 2
234Bovedin: Tira Menos *
-
6a+ 1
235Bovedin: Mas Vale Mana Que Mano *
-
6b *2
236Bovedin: Nebulosa *
-
6c+ 1
237Urano *
-
7a+ **1
238Bovedin: Superdosis *
-
7b 1
239SN 9 *7a **2
240Perpetuando *8a ***1
241Rita *6a ***7
242La Raspa *6a 5
243Susto *6a+ ***5
244Cosme *
-
6b **1
245Tallavarte *
-
6b **1
246Tiramenos *6b **1
247Sacretitos *
-
4b 1
248Saltamontes *
-
5b 2
249Yin-Yan *
-
5c 1
250Els Pinolets *
-
5b 1
251Jovenes a los 70 *
-
6b 1
252No name 3 - left of no name 2 *
-
4c **1
253No name 4 left of Bum Bum Ipanema *
-
4b *1
254La Raja *4c 2
255Las chicas *5c 2
256Katana *5b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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