Climbs 102
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 163m a.s.l
Faces E

Another New Line Down On The Coast © Franco Cookson

Crag features

A series of buttresses crowning a large plateau below the village of Ravenscar. There are several buttresses currently undergoing development. There are many strong lines, especially in the low to mid E-grades. Much of the lower grade lines remain unclimbed, though when they are the crag will be one of the premier venues of the area. Get involved!

Much of the rock is clean, though cracklines and top outs are often vegetated on unclimbed lines. There is currently around 40 routes with that number set to double (mainly in the lower grades).

The crags take little drainage and are solid in the main. Overall it is quick drying and offers good conditions in the heat of summer and the cold and dry of winter - a true all round venue. However, the crag is brackenous in summer, though regular walking of the paths will keep them clear of bracken and in good order. NOTE: Ticks are common!

Approach the village of Ravenscar from the A171 and upon arrival in the village bear right past the Raven Hall Hotel to park at Station Square. Follow the Cleveland Way north-west back towards the hotel. When passing a second lone bush on the left of the path at a short downhill section, a yellow-topped marker post should be present on the right. A vague track leads to the crag through the trees.

Alternatively, a ‘fishermans line’ leads down from the Cleveland Way sign or cut straight down the hillside to the top of your buttress of choice.

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

To access Contraband from above, walk towards the Ravenscar Hotel from the village parking before cutting down to the right through bushes at red and white marker tape, around 40m before the lone house on the left. An old piece of sheet metal is found at the top of Contraband Buttress. Abseil in.

For Illusion Buttress and Evasion Buttress head 10m beyond the house then drop down the hillside when a blue marker is seen in the trees. Evasion drops straight down from this point, while Illusion is found walking left to a piece of plastic 'pointing the way'. Abseil in.

To access Fox Holes from above, walk to 60m before the lone house; inline with a rowan tree on the cliff edge. Below the rowan is a steep, tree-less ridge with a large belay stake.

All the approaches will be fine once the crag gets a few visits each month to keep them well trodden. All the unclimbed lines are fair game though generally very vegetated - get on it! However, obvious route cleaning would suggest someone else is 'on with it'.

Approach notes

See crag description. An affinity with the crag is extremely useful!

http://davidwarburton-climbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/smugglers-terrace-mini-guide.html

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

http://climbonline.co.uk/PDFs/NYM%20Mini%20Guides/Smugglers%20Terrace2014Oct.pdf
Simon Caldwell - 17/May/15
Amazing location, loads of stuff to keep you busy, climbing a offwidth crack starting a cave to the left of Easter island buttress, awesome climb but nightmare on the top out
1176gws - 13/Nov/13
Great crag, offering some fab routes. Loads more to go at.
Franco Cookson - 31/Oct/12
Now home to some excellent and varied climbing, with plenty left to do throughout the grades. This and Stoupe Brow offer good sandstone climbing on the coast!
Dave Warburton - 12/Aug/12
Be carefull when trying to put up new routes here. It is wise to abseil the routes before climbing them. Yesterday, Whilst trying to onsight a new route left of the contraband butress, I got caught it a wee rock fall! (be wary of the cracks with the debris below)
Sam Marks - 13/Feb/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Smith's Buttress
2 Machette * f5 1
3 Gondwanaland * f5 1
4 Pangea *
-
f6C  
5 Anterior Portion *
-
f6C *  
  Collision Wall
7 Africa Collides *
-
f7B *  
8 Strata Smith *
-
f5+ 1
9 Continental Drift * f6B+ * 2
  The Lookout
11 Tertiary Tension * f5+ 2
12 Fossil Hammer * f5+ 1
13 Ammonite *
-
f6A * 1
14 The Roar *
-
f6B+  
  The Grotto
16 Wolf Fish *
-
f5  
17 The Lookout *
-
f6B  
  The Fox Holes
19 Herring Aid HVS 5b * 1
20 The Hakey Cokey VS 4c * 1
21 Hard of Herring HVS 4c * 3
22 Mackerel Crack MVS 4a * 2
23 Dolphin In The Blowhole E1 5b 1
24 Corsair E3 5c 3
  Easter Island Buttress (AKA The Long-Faced Man)
26 Hake Expectations HVS 5a 1
27 Billet The Kid E5 6a ** 5
28 The Tormented Sole E7 6b *** 5
29 Squid Vicious E7 6c *** 1
30 The Colossus f7A+ ** 1
31 Life is Life f7B+ ***  
  Aurora Buttress
33 Dolphinately Maybe E5 6a 1
34 Sea King E1 5b * 6
35 Consolation Crack VS 4b  
36 Anniversary Climb HVS 5b *  
37 Olympia HVS 5b 1
38 Borealis E4 6a 1
39 Aurora Crack Variation VS 4c 1
40 Aurora Crack HS 4b * 4
41 East Parade HVD 2
42 Living the Bream E1 5b 3
  Contraband Buttress
44 Black Beard E1 5b 6
45 Long John Silver E2 5b * 3
46 Pie Arete E3 5c 4
47 Contraband Crack HVS 5a ** 10
48 Contraband Crack Arete Finish E1 5c 1
49 Psychosis E4 6a *** 7
50 Mr Fishbitz VS 4c * 1
  Counterfeit Buttress
52 Chiasso E1 5c * 2
  Evasion Buttress
54 Silence of the Clams f6C 2
55 Babel Fish HVS 5b * 3
56 Marbled in Stone E2 5b * 4
57 Ai No Barramundi E4 6a * 4
58 No Ifs No Halibuts E4 6a * 1
59 So Long, And Thanks For All The Fish HVS 5b ** 4
60 Krill Zone E7 6c ** 2
61 Kelp The Young f7A+ 1
62 License to Krill E5 6b 4
63 Clew Garnet MVS 4b * 4
64 Twiggy's Jukebox VS 4c * 4
65 Leviathan E5 6c *** 1
66 Emersion E4 5c ** 2
67 Hullabeluga VS 4c * 2
68 Hullabeluga (Finger Crack Finish) none 5b?  
69 Cards Against Humanatee E2 5c * 3
70 Mullet of Cocktail E2 5c * 2
71 I've Haddock With Fish Puns! VS 4b 1
72 No Plaice To Hang Around E4 5c 1
  Illusion Buttress
74 The Salmon of Doubt VS 4c 1
75 Turbot Charger E5 6b 2
76 The Basstard E6 6c ** 3
77 Illusion Wall Project E8 7a/b  
78 Halcyon Dace E2 5c 1
79 Six Of The Best S * 1
80 A Plaice Lost In Time E3 5c *** 7
81 Porpoise Economy E5 6a ** 4
82 Ravenscare E5 5c * 1
83 The Swordfish of a Thousand Truths E2 6a 2
84 The Hake Shake E2 5b 2
  Genoa
  Wang Point
  Projekts
88 Slabby Arete * E3 5b  
89 Sole Traverse * E4 5c  
90 Privateel Groove * MVS 4b  
91 Contraband Left Crack *
-
HVS 5a  
92 Smuggler's Wall Project E6 7a  
93 Natural Born Krillers E2 5c  
  Allosaurus Wall
95 Clever Girls
-
f6B+ * 1
96 Devil's Toenail
-
f4+  
97 Feathered Friends
-
f5 1
98 Biotic Crisis f6C+ ** 2
99 Chaos Theory f6C  
100 Toarcian Turnover f6C *  
  Plesiosaurus
102 Monkey Puzzle f6A 1
103 Monkey Puzzle (Standing)
-
f5+ 1
104 Supratemporal f6B * 1
  Megalosaurus
106 Sands of Time
-
f3 1
107 Beachcoma f6A * 1
108 Beachcoma (Standing)
-
f5 * 2
109 Amber f6B+ *  
110 Amber (Standing)
-
f5 1
111 DNA
-
f5+ * 1
112 Extinct
-
f5+ * 1
113 Whitby Jet
-
f4+ 2
114 Belemnite
-
f6A  
115 Belemnite Dreams
-
f6B+ * 1
116 Anticline
-
f6B 1
  T-Rex
118 Pale Rider f7C *  
  Brachiosaurus
120 Mad Dog f7C *  
  Stegosaurus
122 Coprolite f6A+ * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Dave Warburton