Climbs 165
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 437m a.s.l
Faces S

A classic 4+ at Baudouvin © Rog Wilko

Crag features

Coudon is the highest and most northerly of the mini-mountains that surround Toulon. The southern flank of the mountain (and lot of the northern side too) is a long ribbon of high quality limestone in a superb setting. It offers a broad selection of routes with a good spread of grades and a variety of styles here - most teams should find plenty to do here.

Mount Coudon is south facing and catches the sun all day. It makes a good winter venue when the Mistral isn't blowing. It is high enough to catch a bit of a breeze in hot weather although you may also bake. It will dry very quickly after rain and suffers from no seepage.

Approach notes

The cliffs are all reached from above from parking spaces along the narrow Route du Fort Coudon which runs up to the Telecommunications centre in the old fort at the mountain's highest point. The narrow road branches east off the Route de Tourris, 1.3km north from its junction with the D62/D46, the road that loops round to the north of Mount Faron linking the A50 and A57 motorways. This neatly avoids the need to get involved with Toulon city centre.

The cliffs are all approached from above (easy in, harder out!) from one of three parking places.

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Guidebooks

France : C?te d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
Totally agree with the other comments, went here after a disappointing time at Citerne and was blown away by the quality. Went to Citerne saw 4 people, came here and the crag was rammed, trust the locals they know their stuff!
Zoomer - 28/Oct/11
This must be one of the best crags in France for quality easier routes. The stars here are justified and more. Rock quality excellent especially at right-hand end, bolting normally generous. But be warned - in hot dry and windy weather the road up to the crag may well be closed on account of fire hazard.
Rog Wilko - 22/Oct/11
For the modest climber, this must be one of France's best kept secrets. Had a great session here, 7 routes all worth three stars!
Rog Wilko - 16/Oct/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Baudouvin
2 J'y pense et j'oublie 5a *** 15
3 L'as de club qui spade ton heart, diamond line 5c ** 4
4 Je pense qu'à ça 6b ** 3
5 Grégari 5c ** 3
6 Petite Mélanie 4c *** 15
7 Azertyuiop 4a *** 18
8 Quadriceps 5a ** 3
9 Que Dalle 5b *** 16
10 Mélissa 6a ** 3
11 Pourquoi pas? 5b *** 10
12 Trazybulle 4a *** 7
13 La tâche 3+ *** 8
14 Baibelino 3 ** 4
15 French kiss 5c *** 1
16 Pim pam poum 3 ** 9
17 No comment 6a *** 4
18 L'initiateur dormeur 3 *** 3
19 Impôt direct 6b *** 1
20 Impôt variante 6b+ * 1
21 T'occupes pas des signaux, mets du charbon 5a *** 9
22 Jackpot 5a *** 4
23 Caprice des vieux 4c *** 5
24 Olabaf 5a *** 10
25 Le matin des magiciens 4c *** 5
26 Sakapof dissident 4c *** 9
27 Hamma bia 5c *** 3
28 L'âge de glace
-
5c ** 1
29 A la recherche du gland perdu
-
4a 1
  Rose Marie
31 Jardin des libellules 5a *** 4
32 Nid des cailles 5a *** 4
33 Finochia 6a+ *  
34 Paradisiac 6a+ *** 2
35 La "x" 5c **  
36 Noctambule 6a *** 1
37 Noctambule Extension 6b ***  
38 Microcosmos 6b+ *** 1
39 Shiva 5c *** 3
40 Parvati 5c **  
41 Mort subite 6b+ *  
42 L'obscure 6c **  
43 Rose Marie 6a *** 3
44 Despérados 7a ***  
45 Désiré 6b+ ***  
46 L'insoumise 6a+ *** 1
47 Petit bide 6b+ **  
48 Les kaï kaï 6b+ **  
49 La coquine 6b+ *  
  Grandes Voies
51 Kéops 6a+ **  
52 Les trois gouttes d'H2O 5c *** 1
53 La salle de bains 5c *** 1
54 La gélule 5c ** 1
55 Layenda 6a ** 1
56 Colle qui peut 5c ***  
57 La saint maclou 5c ***  
58 Touche pas à mon pof 6b+ ***  
59 Le chêne direct 4c ***  
60 Le chêne 4c ***  
61 Mélodie aérienne 6a *** 2
62 Rock autopsie 6b **  
63 Cacophonie 6a *  
64 La seule escalade 5c **  
  Sector La Boély
66 La boély 5a **  
67 Le grand toit 5c *** 1
  Sector Bal à Bougival
69 Bal à bougival 6a+ ***  
70 Armaguédon 6a **  
71 Le voleur de Bagdad 5a ***  
  Le Petit Surplomb
73 Ballade pour Agnès 4c * 7
74 Les bidasses en folie 4c * 6
75 Banana way 4a * 7
76 Le petit surplomb 5a ** 8
77 Carbone 14 5a  
  Les Dés
79 Cacahuète a roulettes
-
2 3
80 D0 3+ 4
81 Mongolita 3 ** 5
82 D1 3+ * 10
83 D2 4a * 9
84 D3 4a * 7
85 D4 5a * 6
86 D5 5a ** 5
87 D6 5a ** 3
88 D7 5c ** 4
89 D8 6a+ ** 1
90 D9 6b ** 1
91 Pollux 6a ** 2
92 Colargol 6a *** 1
93 La fée railleuse 6a *** 2
94 La belle aux bras daubants 6c ***  
  Pepsi Max and Mythe Erra
96 Marjorade 6a+ *** 1
97 Moustrouille 6b+ ***  
98 Pepsi max 5c ***  
99 Pitchounette 5a ** 2
100 XS 5c **  
101 Pipsou-Mimsou 4a **  
102 Lauratounette 6b ** 1
103 Billy lou Bébéou 6c ***  
104 Souffre douceur 7a+ ** 1
105 Mythe errant 7a ***  
106 Sanctuaire galactique 7b ***  
107 Mécanique céleste 7b+ ***  
  Canicule and Chronastro
109 Voie ricard 7a+ ***  
110 A l'aube de l'irréel 7b+ ***  
111 Canicule 7a+ *** 2
112 L'élan de main qui chante 7b ***  
113 37.2º le matin 7a *** 2
114 Zen attitude 7a+ ***  
115 Coucher de soleil 6c+ *** 1
116 On se calme 6c *** 1
117 Patience dans l'Azur 6b+ *** 3
118 Vocalise 5c *  
119 Parcours sante 5c **  
120 A bout de soufflé 6a *** 3
121 Les yeux du désir 6c ***  
122 Chlorodose 7a ***  
123 Peur de rien 6c ***  
124 Les flirts du mâle 6b **  
125 Calimero 5a *  
126 Grisoulite 6b ** 1
127 La doumé 6a *** 3
128 Dominette 6a *** 4
129 Feeling 6c+ ***  
130 Chronastro 5c *** 1
131 Le dalmasso migrateur 5c ***  
  Gwendolin and Astérix
133 Le vent t'emportera 6b+ *  
134 Voie clément 5c *** 2
135 Les bonheurs d'emilie 5c *** 2
136 Chipie bulle (P1) 6a *** 2
137 Chipie Bulle 6c *** 2
138 Gwendoline 7a ***  
139 Tonton tron 7a ***  
140 Voie sans nom 7a+ *** 1
141 La dernière tentation 7c ***  
142 Oxygéne 7b ***  
143 Lueur d'un soir 7a ***  
144 La luciole 6b ***  
145 Misandre 6c ***  
146 Astérix et périls 6b ***  
147 Accroche toi au balai 7a+ ***  
148 Coup de balai 7c+ ***  
149 Maléfice 7c+ ***  
150 Les traces du temps 7b+ ***  
151 Imagine 6c+ ***  
152 Milagro 6a+ *  
153 Kata marrant 6b+ **  
154 Désespérados 6a ***  
  Train d'Enfer
156 Ventura highway 6b *  
157 L'aziza 7a **  
158 Anais 6a+ ***  
159 A toit de jourer 6c *  
160 Bagdad café 6c+ **  
161 Les hauts ferrés 6c *  
162 Les enfants du paradis 6b *  
163 Vendredi 13 6a *  
164 Train d'enfer 5c ** 1
165 Come back 6a+ **  
166 Sur mesure 6c *  
  Gobovol
168 Malibu 7b+ *  
169 Arc en ciel 6c *  
170 Tangente 6b+ **  
171 Tambu 7c *  
172 Pyracantha 7c **  
173 Gobovol 7b **  
174 Peau d'ange 8a *  
175 Doux frisson 7a *  
176 La Jean-Marie 5a *  
177 Violon dingue 6a *  

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