Climbs 167
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 437m a.s.l
Faces S

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A classic 4+ at Baudouvin © Rog Wilko

Crag features

Coudon is the highest and most northerly of the mini-mountains that surround Toulon. The southern flank of the mountain (and lot of the northern side too) is a long ribbon of high quality limestone in a superb setting. It offers a broad selection of routes with a good spread of grades and a variety of styles here - most teams should find plenty to do here.

Mount Coudon is south facing and catches the sun all day. It makes a good winter venue when the Mistral isn't blowing. It is high enough to catch a bit of a breeze in hot weather although you may also bake. It will dry very quickly after rain and suffers from no seepage.

Approach notes

The cliffs are all reached from above from parking spaces along the narrow Route du Fort Coudon which runs up to the Telecommunications centre in the old fort at the mountain's highest point. The narrow road branches east off the Route de Tourris, 1.3km north from its junction with the D62/D46, the road that loops round to the north of Mount Faron linking the A50 and A57 motorways. This neatly avoids the need to get involved with Toulon city centre.

The cliffs are all approached from above (easy in, harder out!) from one of three parking places.

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Guidebooks

Totally agree with the other comments, went here after a disappointing time at Citerne and was blown away by the quality. Went to Citerne saw 4 people, came here and the crag was rammed, trust the locals they know their stuff!
Zoomer - 28/Oct/11
This must be one of the best crags in France for quality easier routes. The stars here are justified and more. Rock quality excellent especially at right-hand end, bolting normally generous. But be warned - in hot dry and windy weather the road up to the crag may well be closed on account of fire hazard.
Rog Wilko - 22/Oct/11
For the modest climber, this must be one of France's best kept secrets. Had a great session here, 7 routes all worth three stars!
Rog Wilko - 16/Oct/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Baudouvin
2 J'y pense et j'oublie 5a *** 20
3 L'as de club qui spade ton heart, diamond line 5c ** 8
4 Je pense qu'à ça 6b ** 4
5 Grégari 5c ** 3
6 Petite Mélanie 4c *** 18
7 Azertyuiop 4a *** 21
8 Quadriceps 5a ** 6
9 Que Dalle 5b *** 18
10 Mélissa 6a ** 4
11 Pourquoi pas? 5b *** 13
12 Trazybulle 4a *** 9
13 La tâche 3c *** 9
14 Baibelino 3a ** 5
15 French kiss 5c *** 2
16 Pim pam poum 3a ** 10
17 No comment 6a *** 6
18 L'initiateur dormeur 3a *** 4
19 Impôt direct 6b *** 3
20 Impôt variante 6b+ * 1
21 T'occupes pas des signaux, mets du charbon 5a *** 10
22 Jackpot 5a *** 5
23 Caprice des vieux 4c *** 6
24 Olabaf 5a *** 11
25 Le matin des magiciens 4c *** 5
26 Sakapof dissident 4c *** 9
27 Hamma bia 5c *** 4
28 L'âge de glace
-
5c ** 1
29 A la recherche du gland perdu
-
4a 1
  Rose Marie
31 Jardin des libellules 5a *** 4
32 Nid des cailles 5a *** 4
33 Finochia 6a+ *  
34 Paradisiac 6a+ *** 2
35 La "x" 5c **  
36 Noctambule 6a *** 1
37 Noctambule Extension 6b ***  
38 Microcosmos 6b+ *** 1
39 Shiva 5c *** 3
40 Parvati 5c **  
41 Mort subite 6b+ *  
42 L'obscure 6c **  
43 Rose Marie 6a *** 4
44 Despérados 7a ***  
45 Désiré 6b+ ***  
46 L'insoumise 6a+ *** 1
47 Petit bide 6b+ **  
48 Les kaï kaï 6b+ **  
49 La coquine 6b+ *  
  Grandes Voies
51 Kéops 6a+ **  
52 Les trois gouttes d'H2O 5c *** 1
53 La salle de bains 5c *** 1
54 La gélule 5c ** 1
55 Layenda 6a ** 1
56 Colle qui peut 5c ***  
57 La saint maclou 5c ***  
58 Touche pas à mon pof 6b+ ***  
59 Le chêne direct 4c ***  
60 Le chêne 4c *** 4
Climb name Grade
61 Mélodie aérienne 6a *** 3
62 Rock autopsie 6b ** 1
63 Cacophonie 6a * 1
64 La seule escalade 5c ** 1
  Sector La Boély
66 La boély 5a **  
67 Le grand toit 5c *** 3
  Sector Bal à Bougival
69 Bal à bougival 6a+ ***  
70 Armaguédon 6a **  
71 Le voleur de Bagdad 5a *** 2
  Le Petit Surplomb
73 Ballade pour Agnès 4c * 9
74 Les bidasses en folie 4c * 8
75 Banana way 4a * 8
76 Mini Surplomb 5a *  
77 Banana Split 5b ** 1
78 Le petit surplomb 5a ** 11
79 Carbone 14 5a 1
  Les Dés
81 Cacahuète a roulettes
-
2a 3
82 D0 3c 4
83 Mongolita 3a ** 5
84 D1 3c * 10
85 D2 4a * 9
86 D3 4a * 7
87 D4 5a * 7
88 D5 5a ** 6
89 D6 5a ** 4
90 D7 5c ** 4
91 D8 6a+ ** 1
92 D9 6b ** 1
93 Pollux 6a ** 2
94 Colargol 6a *** 2
95 La fée railleuse 6a *** 3
96 La belle aux bras daubants 6c *** 1
  Pepsi Max and Mythe Erra
98 Marjorade 6a+ *** 1
99 Moustrouille 6b+ ***  
100 Pepsi max 5c ***  
101 Pitchounette 5a ** 2
102 XS 5c **  
103 Pipsou-Mimsou 4a **  
104 Lauratounette 6b ** 1
105 Billy lou Bébéou 6c ***  
106 Souffre douceur 7a+ ** 1
107 Mythe errant 7a ***  
108 Sanctuaire galactique 7b ***  
109 Mécanique céleste 7b+ ***  
  Canicule and Chronastro
111 Voie ricard 7a+ ***  
112 A l'aube de l'irréel 7b+ ***  
113 Canicule 7a+ *** 2
114 L'élan de main qui chante 7b ***  
115 37.2º le matin 7a *** 2
116 Zen attitude 7a+ ***  
117 Coucher de soleil 6c+ *** 1
118 On se calme 6c *** 1
119 Patience dans l'Azur 6b+ *** 3
120 Vocalise 5c *  
Climb name Grade
121 Parcours sante 5c **  
122 A bout de soufflé 6a *** 4
123 Les yeux du désir 6c ***  
124 Chlorodose 7a ***  
125 Peur de rien 6c *** 1
126 Les flirts du mâle 6b ** 1
127 Calimero 5a *  
128 Grisoulite 6b ** 1
129 La doumé 6a *** 3
130 Dominette 6a *** 4
131 Feeling 6c+ *** 1
132 Chronastro 5c *** 2
133 Le dalmasso migrateur 5c ***  
  Gwendolin and Astérix
135 Le vent t'emportera 6b+ *  
136 Voie clément 5c *** 3
137 Les bonheurs d'emilie 5c *** 2
138 Chipie bulle (P1) 6a *** 2
139 Chipie Bulle 6c *** 2
140 Gwendoline 7a ***  
141 Tonton tron 7a ***  
142 Voie sans nom 7a+ *** 1
143 La dernière tentation 7c ***  
144 Oxygéne 7b ***  
145 Lueur d'un soir 7a ***  
146 La luciole 6b *** 1
147 Misandre 6c ***  
148 Astérix et périls 6b *** 1
149 Accroche toi au balai 7a+ ***  
150 Coup de balai 7c+ ***  
151 Maléfice 7c+ ***  
152 Les traces du temps 7b+ ***  
153 Imagine 6c+ ***  
154 Milagro 6a+ *  
155 Kata marrant 6b+ **  
156 Désespérados 6a ***  
  Train d'Enfer
158 Ventura highway 6b *  
159 L'aziza 7a **  
160 Anais 6a+ *** 1
161 A toit de jourer 6c * 1
162 Bagdad café 6c+ **  
163 Les hauts ferrés 6c *  
164 Les enfants du paradis 6b * 1
165 Vendredi 13 6a *  
166 Train d'enfer 5c ** 1
167 Come back 6a+ **  
168 Sur mesure 6c *  
  Gobovol
170 Malibu 7b+ *  
171 Arc en ciel 6c *  
172 Tangente 6b+ **  
173 Tambu 7c *  
174 Pyracantha 7c **  
175 Gobovol 7b **  
176 Peau d'ange 8a *  
177 Doux frisson 7a *  
178 La Jean-Marie 5a *  
179 Violon dingue 6a *  

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