Climbs 70
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 641m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

The climbing is upon large basalt columns (similar in appearance, not scale to the Giants Causeway) which offer climbing on aretes, and corners, with good pockets and edges. The climbing is mainly single pitch, however there are some mid - height belay stations for instructional use on the right hand wing. There are 3 sectors to the crag: sector 1 perhaps the tallest, sector 2 the most compact and clean rock, and sector 3 good length routes, although spoilt by the moss on the first 8 metres. At the far end of sector 3, there are the highest concentration of low grade routes, which are looking the worst for wear. The crag is equipped with large eco - bolts with double bolt lower offs.

Approach notes

Travel south east out of Langeac on the D585. Turn left at the village of Saint-Acrons-d'Allier and over the bridge on the D30. After about 300m turn right onto the D48 and follow this narrow tarmac road along the edge of the river Allier. After about 2 km, do not re-cross the bridge on the right, but continue straight down the narrow tarmac lane. After about 200 metres an impressive church will appear on the left, just after this there is a large layby. There is a notice showing the start of the footpath, 'Site de escalade'. Follow the white marked path steeply (!) uphill through the trees, for 15-20 minutes. The crag appears as you emerge from the trees. Part of the path at the foot of the crag has a narrow step, above a steep drop.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 La traverse du desert *
-
6a  
2 Voie romaine *
-
6b  
3 L'integrale *
-
6a+  
4 Trop dur pour moi *
-
6b  
5 J'ai plus 20 ans *
-
6b  
6 Les variantes *
-
6c+  
7 La colangette *
-
7a  
8 Loir et chair *
-
6a+  
9 L'hirondelle *
-
6a+  
10 La source du chalet *
-
6a+  
11 La cevenole *
-
6b  
12 Tait toi et marche *
-
6a  
13 La passoire *
-
5c  
14 La petite verole *
-
5c  
15 Opposition bancaire *
-
6a  
16 La canicule *
-
2  
17 Cinq colonnes a la une *
-
6b  
18 Sucre d'orge *
-
6b+  
19 Declaration sur l'horreur *
-
6b  
20 La pallandre *
-
6b+  
21 Retour des morts vivants *
-
6c  
22 Aux amis disparus *
-
7a+  
23 Folle Allier * 7a ** 1
24 Mogadi show * 6b 1
25 Illusions en perspective *
-
7b  
26 Barbarie dans les orgues *
-
6c  
27 Idefix *
-
6a  
28 Chateau de cartes *
-
6c  
29 Legitime demence *
-
7c  
30 La vie du rail *
-
7a  
31 Ca plane pour moi *
-
6a+  
32 Orgues defuntes *
-
6c  
33 Moi et toits *
-
6a+ *  
34 La palanger - hot *
-
6a  
35 Double jeu *
-
5c  
36 Emile franc *
-
6a  
37 Roger Langeac * 5c  
38 Fundy dead *
-
6a  
39 Obelix et cie *
-
5c  
40 Nous n'irons plus au bois *
-
6a  
41 Si tu vas a Rio *
-
6a  
42 Deblis tower *
-
5a  
43 Premeditation *
-
5a  
44 Sur bac a bac *
-
6a  
45 Bloc en stock *
-
4c  
46 Terre Yfic *
-
5a  
47 L'age de la terre *
-
5a  
48 Incognito *
-
6a  
49 L'intrus *
-
6a  
50 Guerre de marche *
-
5c  
51 Le petit toit *
-
5c  
52 La bretelle * 5c  
53 Orgue sculptee *
-
5a  
54 Moulinette infernale *
-
4a  
55 La vipere *
-
4c  
56 L'ami cale *
-
5a  
57 L'ami rale *
-
5a  
58 Monte et verdi *
-
5a  
59 L'inconnu *
-
5c  
60 La petit arrete *
-
5c  
61 L'etala *
-
5a  
62 Lisse et haut *
-
6a  
63 Echec et mat *
-
6a  
64 La saumonette *
-
5a  
65 L'eros gene *
-
5a  
66 Zubulon * 5a  
67 La renfourgne *
-
5a  
68 L'entonnoir *
-
4a  
69 Systemme D TA *
-
4a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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