Climbs 70
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 641m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

The climbing is upon large basalt columns (similar in appearance, not scale to the Giants Causeway) which offer climbing on aretes, and corners, with good pockets and edges. The climbing is mainly single pitch, however there are some mid - height belay stations for instructional use on the right hand wing. There are 3 sectors to the crag: sector 1 perhaps the tallest, sector 2 the most compact and clean rock, and sector 3 good length routes, although spoilt by the moss on the first 8 metres. At the far end of sector 3, there are the highest concentration of low grade routes, which are looking the worst for wear. The crag is equipped with large eco - bolts with double bolt lower offs.

Approach notes

Travel south east out of Langeac on the D585. Turn left at the village of Saint-Acrons-d'Allier and over the bridge on the D30. After about 300m turn right onto the D48 and follow this narrow tarmac road along the edge of the river Allier. After about 2 km, do not re-cross the bridge on the right, but continue straight down the narrow tarmac lane. After about 200 metres an impressive church will appear on the left, just after this there is a large layby. There is a notice showing the start of the footpath, 'Site de escalade'. Follow the white marked path steeply (!) uphill through the trees, for 15-20 minutes. The crag appears as you emerge from the trees. Part of the path at the foot of the crag has a narrow step, above a steep drop.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1La traverse du desert *
-
6a  
2Voie romaine *
-
6b  
3L'integrale *
-
6a+  
4Trop dur pour moi *
-
6b  
5J'ai plus 20 ans *
-
6b  
6Les variantes *
-
6c+  
7La colangette *
-
7a  
8Loir et chair *
-
6a+  
9L'hirondelle *
-
6a+  
10La source du chalet *
-
6a+  
11La cevenole *
-
6b  
12Tait toi et marche *
-
6a  
13La passoire *
-
5c  
14La petite verole *
-
5c  
15Opposition bancaire *
-
6a  
16La canicule *
-
2  
17Cinq colonnes a la une *
-
6b  
18Sucre d'orge *
-
6b+  
19Declaration sur l'horreur *
-
6b  
20La pallandre *
-
6b+  
21Retour des morts vivants *
-
6c  
22Aux amis disparus *
-
7a+  
23Folle Allier *7a **1
24Mogadi show *6b 1
25Illusions en perspective *
-
7b  
26Barbarie dans les orgues *
-
6c  
27Idefix *
-
6a  
28Chateau de cartes *
-
6c  
29Legitime demence *
-
7c  
30La vie du rail *
-
7a  
31Ca plane pour moi *
-
6a+  
32Orgues defuntes *
-
6c  
33Moi et toits *
-
6a+ * 
34La palanger - hot *
-
6a  
35Double jeu *
-
5c  
36Emile franc *
-
6a  
37Roger Langeac *5c  
38Fundy dead *
-
6a  
39Obelix et cie *
-
5c  
40Nous n'irons plus au bois *
-
6a  
41Si tu vas a Rio *
-
6a  
42Deblis tower *
-
5a  
43Premeditation *
-
5a  
44Sur bac a bac *
-
6a  
45Bloc en stock *
-
4c  
46Terre Yfic *
-
5a  
47L'age de la terre *
-
5a  
48Incognito *
-
6a  
49L'intrus *
-
6a  
50Guerre de marche *
-
5c  
51Le petit toit *
-
5c  
52La bretelle *5c  
53Orgue sculptee *
-
5a  
54Moulinette infernale *
-
4a  
55La vipere *
-
4c  
56L'ami cale *
-
5a  
57L'ami rale *
-
5a  
58Monte et verdi *
-
5a  
59L'inconnu *
-
5c  
60La petit arrete *
-
5c  
61L'etala *
-
5a  
62Lisse et haut *
-
6a  
63Echec et mat *
-
6a  
64La saumonette *
-
5a  
65L'eros gene *
-
5a  
66Zubulon *5a  
67La renfourgne *
-
5a  
68L'entonnoir *
-
4a  
69Systemme D TA *
-
4a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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