UKC

Climbs 123
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 514m a.s.l
Faces S

Topping out on The Tooth © harrier_hunt

Crag features

Set high up above the treeline and commanding a beautiful view, the Escalera Arabe is one of El Chorro's most peaceful locations. The quality of the climbing matches the view with the majority of the routes being single-pitch wall climbs on brilliant rock. The best climbs are in the lower-to-mid grade range and there are plenty of them, although there are a number of good harder pitches dotted across the various sectors. In the past it was possible to drive up the track to the base of the cliff, however the track has now been closed by the National Park and as a result the approach is considerably longer on foot although it is a lovely walk and not at all strenuous. There is occasional stone fall from the large areas of broken crags above the climbs and a helmet is advised. The area is named after the Mozarabic stairway built pre-1500, sections of which are still in amazing condition.

Approach notes

From the station in El Chorro drive up the road towards Valle de Abdalajis and, just before the crag of Las Encantadas, park at a building next to a water tank. Take the upper of two dirt tracks on the left and walk along this for around 10 minutes until the track meets the hillside at a large quarry. Continue up the track that follows the base of the slope below the cliffs for a further 10 minutes until just past the point where a power line crosses over the track and look for paths that head up the slope to the base of the crag itself. For El Navegador Pillar continue up the road to a small hairpin bend and walk up a steep but short path on the left to the cliff. For those without a car it is nicer to walk from the station in the direction of the Albercones parking and just after leaving the built-up area, walk up a track on the right that eventually meets up with the approach track to the quarry.

Guidebooks

El Chorro

A full colour guidebook dedicated the area around El Chorro in Andalusia in Spain. Covering the famous Gorge and all the fine crags near the village, plus many superb outlying areas. The book is in the modern Rockfax style with full colour photo topos, descriptions, symbols and maps, plus loads of excellent action shots.
More info
Was here on the 7th october 2013 and there is a very obvious fence around the routes in sector suiza from routes 22 to 26 on page 93 of the rockfax guide. My spanish is not great but the notices on the fence suggest it is closed for the protection of the local flora and fauna.
SGD - 16/Oct/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Upper Crag
2 Magigi 5c 15
3 El Potrero Chico 6b 12
4 Chatarra 6a+ * 7
5 Resala 6a+ * 7
6 Las cosas de Lucas 5a 117
7 Las cosas de Mateo 6a+ 92
8 El pilarito 3a 61
9 Sopo con ondas 6c ** 74
10 El beso de la flaca 5c ** 191
11 Lucky no com pan 5c ** 210
12 Danos colaterales 6c+ * 12
13 Lucas grijander 7a+ * 10
14 Producto nacional 7a+ ** 13
15 Filou 6a ** 211
16 Forjado en frio 7b+ * 6
17 Nunca mais 6c 15
18 Blanca 6a 44
19 El canalillo de la mari 6b+ *** 218
20 Escalopendra guajani 6c 87
21 Zona cero 7a+ *** 32
22 Amor sandunguero 6c *** 113
23 Colaboracion ciudadana 7a+ ** 17
24 Alta traicion 7a+ * 8
25 Engendro caneri 6a+ ** 160
26 Canadian Ice Hockey Night 7a * 5
27 Brava bambina
-
7a+ 2
28 Madonna cicciona
-
7b 2
29 Mi abuela chochea
-
7a+ 1
  The Tooth
31 Karius
-
6b 2
32 Baktus
-
6b+ 2
33 Dr Teeth
-
6a 5
  Sector Arabesque
35 Placuneo sin fronteras 7b ** 7
36 El arabe perdido 7a * 88
37 Bladerunner
-
6a * 347
38 Face of Flake 6b * 144
39 Aventur El Chorro 7b * 2
40 Lococolo 7a+ 1
41 Diedre torpedol 6c *** 178
42 Arabesque 7a *** 137
  Steps Buttress
44 Sheik tu dinero 6c+ * 76
Climb name Grade
45 Birdy 7b+ ** 11
46 Calvo potrun 7c * 35
47 Coming on Strong 7a+ ** 34
48 Rock the Kashbah 7b ** 76
  Sector Sergio
50 Solo afeitar 6a * 178
51 The Left Way 4c * 175
52 The Middle Way 4c * 142
53 La raya a la izquierda 4a * 158
54 Smooth 6b+ * 134
55 Left of Sergio 6a 33
56 Sergio y Antonio 6a *** 391
57 Yo y mi resaca 5c *** 298
58 Blobby Left 6a+ 188
59 Blobby Right 6a 127
60 Chocolate Orange 6a+ 109
61 Schlemmer Reise
-
3c 8
62 Swiss Michael
-
4c 13
63 Gaumenschmaus
-
4c 12
64 Peñita Malaguita 7a * 4
65 La Ley Innata 6c ** 18
66 For Fite 6b+ ** 106
67 Double Edge 6b+ ** 117
68 Una Vida Vívela * 6a+ 2
69 Heidi y los 7 cabras * 4a 1
  Sector Suiza
71 Lea 5c ** 34
72 Rogelio 4c *** 230
73 Los Arcángeles 5c ** 29
74 Chilona 6a+ ** 107
75 Tapa de Isabella 5a 73
76 O sole mio 4a * 162
77 Spaguetti Napoletana 4c * 171
78 Merle-Perle
-
4a 16
79 Los timbales 4a *** 377
80 Un helado para Leo 4a * 100
81 King Line
-
3a * 103
82 Go on 4a * 130
83 El artista 4a 170
84 Dos tetas tiran 6b ** 209
85 Servus Chorro 6b * 60
86 Que Dos Carretas 6a+ ** 44
87 Mas que un carreta 6a * 236
88 Three Dishes Menu 5a * 124
Climb name Grade
89 Café 5c * 116
90 Con leche 5c * 83
91 Highway to Africa 6b ** 52
92 Marlen Suzuky 6c ** 17
93 Los ultimos del ano 6c+ * 21
94 Yogu con mititilla 6a 38
95 No hoy trequa 6a+ * 34
96 Fallilo 6b+ * 62
97 Michelle 6c+ * 21
98 Grounded 4c 13
99 Unknown * 6a+ 5
100 Kiwi 5a * 222
101 Sorbet de limón 4c * 175
102 La Gaita 4c * 194
103 Tira-mi-su 4c * 261
104 Flan de caramelo 5a * 218
105 Fear and loathing in El Chorro * 6a+ 1
  El Navegador Pillar
107 Pecho lobo 6b * 76
108 Steady Away 6b+ ** 38
109 Pecho lata 7a ** 39
110 El Navegador 7a+ ** 29
111 El Navegador (Pitch 1) 6b+ ** 21
112 Los genelos 6c ** 55
113 Los genelos Right 7a ** 64
114 La sonrisa vertical 6c *** 93
115 Longarone 6c *** 20
  Unkonwn
117 Makaimusky * 7a *** 1
118 Insahla *
-
7c *  
119 The Final After *
-
7b *  
120 Ramadan *
-
7c **  
121 Salamalekum *
-
8a 2
122 Alma mala *
-
7b+ **  
123 Kamar *
-
6c+  
124 Tafuit *
-
6c+ *  
125 Die schöne Unbekannte * 5b * 6
126 (Unknown - new line between Tapa de Isabella and O Sole Mio) * 4c * 2
127 Zeig mir deine Muskeln * 6a 4
128 Left of Zeig mir deine Muskeln * 6a 2
129 V+ R of Double Edge * 5c 1
130 Rogelio (extended) * 6a 12
131 Sznurek * 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Emilio Bachini