Climbs 101
Rocktype Schist

Faces E

Dan soloing © Dan Richardson

Crag features

Update Sept 16.  Upper Boltsheugh now fully rebolted by Tim Rankin, with some bolts repositioned to improve safety and a couple of new lines added (left of Enemy Within and adjacent to Crossroads).

 

Both Laurel and Hardy are now rebolted. Tim Rankin has added 3 short new routes to the buttress of fine rock  between between Down Under and Morrison's Missed Adventure. From left to right the grades are 6c, 7a and 6b. It is worth noting that the routes lefty of Laurel and Hardy have not been rebolted but were much younger routes.



The original Aberdeen sport climbing crag has since had some trad routes added on walls to the north and south of the bolts.

The sports climbs tend to be short and vicious. The trad climbs tend to be on adventurous rock.

 

Approach notes

Mostly non-tidal, though the routes at the south end of the headland are affected

Looks like a crucial crimp from Deadheads has come off (small left hand crimp in crack on headwall) - Problem is now significantly harder
Hamfunk - 06/Sep/14
Climbed at Boltsheugh Lower last night. 1 bolt broke on me (Hardy) and there is another loose one (Laurel??) I have the evidence of the broken one!!
eddiealaszewski - 20/Jun/13
After the weekend storms, the boulder jumble at the right-side (north) of the Upper section has been re-jumbled. Some serious lumps of rocks here, all seem to be stable, but shows the incredible power in the waves, especially as it is quite high up. The approach path has also taken a beating, still quite safe but some parts are noticably undercut, "be careful out there".
GrahamJ - 19/Dec/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Boltsheugh Lower North
2 Bashful
-
VS 5a 2
3 Snow White
-
HVS 5c 1
4 Bloodthirsty
-
E2 6b *  
5 Anaemic Groove
-
S 2
6 Waiting for a Delivery
-
D 3
7 Appeal for Sanity
-
VS 4b 2
8 A Wafer Thin Croisant for Sez
-
VS 4c 1
9 Just Another Quaint Route
-
E1 5a 1
  Boltsheugh Upper - Right Side
11 Deadheads
-
7b * 21
12 Aches in Provence 6b+ * 47
13 Aches in Provence (sit start)
-
6c 42
14 Crossroads
-
6a+ 68
15 Little Creatures
-
6c 41
16 Traverse of the Cods
-
7a 24
17 The Enemy Within
-
HVS 5b ** 107
18 Traffic Light Arete S 4a 18
  Boltsheugh Upper - Left Side
20 The Dregs
-
6a 46
21 Automatic
-
6c+ 28
22 The Dark Side
-
6c+ * 52
23 Mo
-
6a+ 85
24 Welly Boot Crack
-
VS 4c 10
25 Eany
-
5c 111
26 Meaney
-
5c 117
  Boltsheugh Lower South
28 Much Ado About Nothing E3 5b 1
29 Green Puddle Corner
-
S 28
30 Blow Out
-
E1 5b 15
31 Three Roofs E3 5c * 1
32 Ramp On
-
VD 14
33 Trouble Monkey 7a+ * 15
34 Trouble Monkey variation 6b+ ** 27
35 Cheeky Madam
-
6b+ * 39
36 Snap, Crackle and Drop
-
HVS 4c 5
37 Five by Five
-
E2 5c 13
38 Drop Zone
-
HVS 4c 5
39 Runny Nose
-
HVS 5a 2
40 Wrist Slasher
-
S 9
41 Laurel
-
6a * 62
42 Hardy
-
6a+ * 39
43 The League of Whingers
-
6b+ * 32
44 Rankin's Rain Games
-
6b ** 33
45 Morrison's Missed Adventure
-
7a ** 18
46 Amateur Head Jamming
-
E1 5a 2
47 Bum Steer 6b 1
48 Dinnky-di 7a 1
49 Dunny Rat 6c 2
50 Out Back
-
6b 3
51 Down Under
-
6c ** 3
52 Go West
-
6b+ * 4
53 Gullywasher
-
D 3
54 Fight the Good Fight
-
VS 4b 8
55 Fear Itself
-
E1 5a 8
56 Nail in the Coffin
-
E3 5c 4
57 Lie To Me
-
E1 5c 2
  Peedie Inlet
59 Scraping the Barrel E3 6a * 1
60 Pedie Traverse
-
VS 4b * 1
61 Peerie Corner 5a * 1
62 Nert Wa 6a * 1
63 Muckle Span 6b+ ** 1
64 Slykees and Weet Feeties 6b * 1
65 Muckle Span/Slykees and Weet Feeties Link 7a ** 1
66 A Bit Nippit
-
6a  
  Bouldering - Upper
68 The Traverse
-
f7A ** 56
69 The Wall
-
f5 68
70 Sin Arete f6B 6
71 The Corner Crack
-
f6A 54
72 Arete
-
f6A * 85
73 Johnny's Dangler
-
f6C ** 80
74 Johnny's Extended Dangler f6B+ ** 5
75 Deadheads Direct
-
f7B *** 31
76 Deadheads Direct Direct f7B 3
77 Raise Your Harpoon f7A+ ** 5
78 The Overhang
-
f6A * 57
79 The Overhang Dyno f6A 12
80 Overhang Eliminate f6C+ ** 22
81 Two Cuts Above (Eliminate) f6C 4
82 The Enemy Within
-
f4 * 15
83 The Lip
-
f6B+ * 10
  Bouldering - Lower
  Floestone Wall
86 The Floestone Wall
-
f7A * 5
87 Slap The Bitch Up f6C 6
88 Flatties f6B+ 11
89 Slopey Slapper f6C+ 7
90 Porty man f7A+ 1
  Cave Wall
92 Top break f5 11
93 Break 2 f5+ 6a 8
94 Break 3 f6B 8
95 Low break f6C 6
96 The Cave Traverse
-
f5+ * 6
97 Ali's Eliminate
-
f7A+ ** 5
98 Pocket, Slopey Crimp f6C 12
99 The Knowledge f7C ** 1
100 Sidepull f6C+ 14
101 The Man from Ellon f7B ** 5
102 Crimp f6C 12
103 Crimp with sidepull f6B+ 6
104 The Shield f7A 5
105 The Throw f6B 19
106 The Lowdown f6B+ * 2
  Eliminate Wall
108 Easy Eliminate f6A+ 16
109 Crimps f6B+ 11
110 Two Peaches f7A * 27
111 Quartz Eliminate f7B+ ** 2

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