UKC

Climbs 51
Rocktype Ice
Altitude 741m a.s.l
Faces N

Jon shaking out on a WI4 variant on Bullen © Mr. K

Crag features

If you like ice cragging, this is the place to head for. Here you will find the hardest moves at Rjukan and this is the place where the famous rock (ice?) stars establish their test-pieces. The area has an easy approach and some of the routes are bolted, allowing you to climb at your limit in relative safety. Don't get complacent though as there are always lots of things to consider when you are ice climbing. The area also has quite a few gentler waterfalls to even things up a little bit including a few amenable free-hanging icicles and some wide and slabby waterfalls. None of the routes are more than one pitch long (usually around 10-30m) and it is possible to tick quite a few in a day - although the area can get crowded, especially at weekends.

There are a number of possibilities beyond those described in the Rockfax guide.

Note that the bolted routes in the Fission Bowl, to the left of 'Fission' were bolted as sport routes (by Rein Leindal), not as drytooling routes.

Approach notes

The crag is a short walk from the large car parks just beyond the tunnel.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Arne
2 Reven Rasker Over Isen M7 ** 4
3 What's the Problem? M9 *** 1
4 Go On M7 ***  
5 Arne M9 ***  
6 Heavy Water M10 ***  
7 Starten WI-4 * 4
  Left End
9 Unknown (1) WI-3 * 68
10 Unknown (2) WI-3 ** 61
11 Unknown (3) WI-3 ** 45
12 Baktus M7 5
13 Baktus WI-5  
14 Karius M7 10
15 Karius WI-5  
16 Zendium
-
M7  
17 Unknown (4) WI-5 19
18 Unknown (5) WI-5 * 28
19 Unknown (6) WI-5 ** 80
20 Unknown (7) WI-5 * 67
Climb name Grade
21 Unknown (8) WI-2 * 266
  Sector Kjøkkentrappa
23 Unknown (9) WI-3 * 50
24 Bored to the Extreme M7 * 3
25 Kjøkkentrappa WI-4 * 308
26 Kjøkkentrappa Right WI-5 *  
  Fisson Bowl
28 Kaptein Krok M5 12
29 Dick in a Toaster M6 1
30 Sport route 1
-
7c+  
31 Sport route 2
-
8b+  
32 Fission M10 *** 5
33 Two Assholes and Five Nice bolts - left hand start M5+ 4
34 Two Assholes and Five Nice Bolts M6 * 58
35 Climb out or swim out 6b 1
  Tipp and Topp Area
37 Tannpirkeren WI-5 ** 11
38 Unnamed (10)
-
WI-5  
39 Ergonomisk Krigsførelse
-
M7+  
40 Topp WI-5 *** 89
Climb name Grade
41 De kaller meg fjård M7 *** 39
42 Unknown M6  
43 Tipp WI-5 *** 61
44 Gaustaspøkelse WI-4 *** 279
  Bullen Area
46 Bullen WI-3 * 593
47 Super Mario M6  
48 Energizer M7  
  Lucky Lisa Area
50 Jomfrua Left WI-4+ ** 1
51 Jomfrua WI-4 ** 277
52 I Just Love a Nice Stein Pull! M6+  
53 Fyrstikka WI-5 *** 146
54 Five Knuckle Shuffle WI-5 *** 7
55 Not only a (N)ice Guy M8 ** 5
56 Lucky Lisa M8 ** 6
57 Lucky Lisa (Pillar Direct) WI-5 ** 20
58 Elk Tested M8 *  

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