Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone

Leading old school reunion © Rich153

Approach notes

See BMC site

Access Advice

Access to this site remains a contentious issue - despite repeated requests to the landowner for an access aggrement for climbers. Following a non-climbing fatality in 2003, the landowner remains concerned with insurance and liability issues and occasionally patrols the site - be prepared for being asked to leave.

Guidebooks

was asked to leave by security guard today
Didymus - 08/May/17
Got a few routes in today before a security guard told us climbing's no longer allowed :( and he says cars are being wheel clamped.
Ruki - 30/Jul/16
Was politely refused access to climb today, looks like those building works have started.
nuclearferret - 03/Oct/15
Climbed here this evening and lead second time around, longtime coming, and does size matter. This is a superb place for my first few lead climbs.
Shakey79 - 19/Jun/12
The two new routes in Bector Wood Quarry are,"Second Time Around",F4 12m, left of "Long Time Coming"and to the right is the superb expidition "Does Size Matter"F5+ 20m.Both climbs had first ascents by Gordon A Jenkins and Yvonne Jones.
deepstar - 29/May/10
Two new climbs have appeared in the area around 'Long Time Coming' recently. Does anyone know the grade of these climbs, especially the one to the right which follows the large crack line? Thanks for the info TommityP, will steer clear for a while.
Mendip Marty - 14/Apr/10
Climbed here on 6th April 2010, and the owner very politely asked us to finish our evenings climbing but never come back, and make others aware not to climb on this venue. On talking to some local climbers who know the owner and have never had issues before, this is due to the planning permission the owner of the land (that is Bector wood and Cooks wood) has invested money in and is trying to obtain. He is worried a climbing injury could put this situation in jeporady. Please deal with this issue sensitively as it would be a shame to lose another climbing venue. If the planning permission does not go ahead it is possible the owner may review the situation, or at least turn a blind eye to considerate climbers.
TommityP - 14/Apr/10
Some good routes once you get in past the big fences and nasty signs. Bolting is a little funny in places and ccational sections of loose stuff but worth a visit especially in the summer when it gets the sun.
Matt Tranter - 24/May/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Professor Smith's Warning E4 6a  
2 Barefoot in the Quarry (at Night) 4c 107
3 Crocker Free Zone
-
5c 73
4 Retroactive
-
5c 82
5 A Taste for Disorder
-
6a+ 14
6 Outside, It's America 6a 20
7 Take the Bull By Its Horns 6c 25
8 Old Codger 7a * 17
9 Killer Instinct 6c+ * 6
10 Confetti Train 6c * 4
11 Closed Conspiracy
-
7b+ * 1
12 Execution
-
7b+  
13 Not Flocking 6b 11
14 Easy and Slow
-
6a 52
15 Koto Globo 6a 24
16 Powder Monkey 6a+ 32
17 Hard and Fast 5c 53
18 Mistress of Measurement 6a+ 42
19 Vicious Eyes 5a * 62
20 On a Mission 6c 26
21 Peck Deck 6c+ * 21
22 Its Got to Be Funky 6c * 33
23 Minstrel in the Gallery 7a+ * 29
24 The Jester 7b+ 1
25 Head Intrinsica (The Awakening) 7b+ ** 15
26 Fistful of Steel 7b+ * 3
27 Never Mind the Width 6a 57
28 Rustic Flux 6c+ * 8
29 Esotrinsica 6a 16
30 Moderately Green 4a 55
31 A Family Affair
-
E4 5c 1
32 Long Time Coming
-
4a 77
33 Vicious Eyes Direct
-
6b+ 2
34 Often Overlooked HVS 5a * 3
35 Does Size Matter
-
5c 20
36 Second Time Around
-
4a 40
37 Between the Lines * HVS 5b ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Paul Robertson