Climbs 68
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 204m a.s.l
Faces S

A 3* classic! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

A very good crag for the sub-E1 climber, plus some thuggy delights for those on E2 or above. The rock is mostly good but beware the organ-pipe shapes: these can be unstable.

Multi-pitch routes up to 200ft, including the very popular Wrinkle (VD), Crackstone Rib (S), Overlapping Wall (E1 5c), Erosion Groove Direct (E2 5c) and - for the thugs - Zangorilla (E4 6a).

Approach notes

Up the Pass between Clogwyn y Grochan and further down from the Cromlech, opposite the Climbers' Club hut on the south side of the Pass.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Rock climbing in Snowdonia (1990)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Carreg Wastad Fach 
2Question Mark
-
VS 4c 2
3Dave's RouteHS 3
 Carreg Wastad 
5Zig Zone Zag *VS 4c  
 The Wrinkle 
7SkylonHS 4b **1098
8The WrinkleVD **1341
9Sun Valley
-
HVS 5a 35
10California Raisins
-
E2 5b 1
11First Test
-
VS 4c *56
12Gryphon
-
HVS 5b *21
13Brute 33E3 6a *13
14Unicorn Direct
-
HVS 5a *32
15UnicornHVS 5b *117
16ElidorE1 5b *66
17LionVS 4c **284
18Overlapping WallE1 5b **270
19Overhanging Chimney Variation
-
VS 4c **142
20Jayway
-
E3 5c 5
21Overhanging Buttress
-
E4 5c 2
22The Crevice
-
VS 4c 16
23Rackstone Crib
-
VS 4b *44
24Slipstone Slab
-
VS 4c 4
25Crackstone RibS 4a ***2362
26Rottish Monk
-
HVS 5a 4
27Ribstone CrackVS 4c **607
 Shadow Wall 
29Erosion Groove
-
HVS 5a 58
30Erosion Groove DirectE2 5c **107
31Twisted SisterE3 5c *8
32Shadow WallVS 4c ***939
33Yellow CrackHVS 5b *89
34ZangorillaE4 6a **48
35TrilonHVS 5b *75
36Goldcrest
-
E1 5b *16
37Quasimodo
-
E1 5b 5
38Yew Link
-
HVS 5b 2
39Old HolbornE1 5b **220
40Bole Way
-
VS 4c *66
41Bole Way, Original Finish
-
VS 4b 7
42Bole Way, Left-hand Finish
-
HVS 5b 1
43Dead Entrance
-
VD 5
44Main Scoop Route
-
HS 4b 11
45Main Scoop Route, Koala Finish
-
HVS 5b 1
46Peeping Tom
-
E3 5c 1
47Cornix
-
HVS 4c 18
48The Castle
-
VS 4c 5
49Halan
-
HS 4b 7
50Spekes ButtressVS 4c **4
51The New Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 4
52The Old Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 4
53bryants gully2 *42
 Clogwyn Tyllau 
55Ampyx (Clogwyn Tyllau)
-
VS 5
 Bouldering 
57Wastad youthf6B 1
58Energy failure.f6C *1
59Jerry's WallV6 **32
60Jerry's Wall SSV8 **32
61Megasaurf6C+ *1
6250 Not Outf6C 1
63Minorsaurf7A *1
64If carlsberg made finger jugsf6A+ 1
65The dandyf6A+ 1
66The hipsterf6C 1
67The fopf5 1
68The groovsterf6B 1
69Handlebar moustachef6C 1
70Flake blob square pantsf6A+ *1
71Maladroitf6A+ 1
72Maladroit directf6A *1
73Tazer rooff6A+ 1
74Batf5 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Different Steve