Climbs 68
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 204m a.s.l
Faces S

A 3* classic! © Sean Kelly

Crag features

A very good crag for the sub-E1 climber, plus some thuggy delights for those on E2 or above. The rock is mostly good but beware the organ-pipe shapes: these can be unstable.

Multi-pitch routes up to 200ft, including the very popular Wrinkle (VD), Crackstone Rib (S), Overlapping Wall (E1 5c), Erosion Groove Direct (E2 5c) and - for the thugs - Zangorilla (E4 6a).

Approach notes

Up the Pass between Clogwyn y Grochan and further down from the Cromlech, opposite the Climbers' Club hut on the south side of the Pass.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis (2009)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Rock climbing in Snowdonia (1990)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Carreg Wastad Fach
2 Question Mark
-
VS 4c 2
3 Dave's Route HS 3
  The Wrinkle
5 Skylon HS 4b ** 1159
6 The Wrinkle VD ** 1401
7 Sun Valley
-
HVS 5a 31
8 California Raisins
-
E2 5b 1
9 First Test
-
VS 4c * 53
10 Gryphon
-
HVS 5b * 23
11 Brute 33 E3 6a * 14
12 Unicorn Direct
-
HVS 5a * 36
13 Unicorn HVS 5b * 127
14 Elidor E1 5b * 68
15 Lion VS 4c ** 305
16 Overlapping Wall E1 5b ** 283
17 Overhanging Chimney Variation
-
VS 4c ** 146
18 Jayway
-
E3 5c 4
19 Overhanging Buttress
-
E4 5c 2
20 The Crevice
-
VS 4c 15
21 Rackstone Crib
-
VS 4b * 44
22 Slipstone Slab
-
VS 4c 4
23 Crackstone Rib S 4a *** 2479
24 Rottish Monk
-
HVS 5a 4
25 Zig Zone Zag VS 4c  
26 Ribstone Crack VS 4c ** 627
  Shadow Wall
28 Erosion Groove
-
HVS 5a 60
29 Erosion Groove Direct E2 5c ** 110
30 Twisted Sister E3 5c * 8
31 Shadow Wall VS 4c *** 978
32 Yellow Crack HVS 5b * 93
33 Zangorilla E4 6a ** 49
34 Trilon HVS 5b * 77
35 Goldcrest
-
E1 5b * 15
36 Quasimodo
-
E1 5b 5
37 Yew Link
-
HVS 5b 2
38 Old Holborn E1 5b ** 226
39 Bole Way
-
VS 4c * 71
40 Bole Way, Original Finish
-
VS 4b 8
41 Bole Way, Left-hand Finish
-
HVS 5b 1
42 Dead Entrance
-
VD 5
43 Main Scoop Route
-
HS 4b 11
44 Main Scoop Route, Koala Finish
-
HVS 5b 1
45 Peeping Tom
-
E3 5c 1
46 Cornix
-
HVS 4c 19
47 The Castle
-
VS 4c 5
48 Halan
-
HS 4b 7
49 Spekes Buttress VS 4c ** 4
50 The New Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 5
51 The Old Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4c 4
52 bryants gully 2 * 43
  Clogwyn Tyllau
54 Ampyx (Clogwyn Tyllau)
-
VS 5
  Bouldering
56 Wastad youth f6B 1
57 Energy failure. f6C * 1
58 Jerry's Wall V6 ** 37
59 Jerry's Wall SS V8 ** 32
60 Megasaur f6C+ * 1
61 50 Not Out f6C 1
62 Minorsaur f7A * 1
63 If carlsberg made finger jugs f6A+ 1
64 The dandy f6A+ 1
65 The hipster f6C 1
66 The fop f5 1
67 The groovster f6B 1
68 Handlebar moustache f6C 1
69 Flake blob square pants f6A+ * 1
70 Maladroit f6A+ 1
71 Maladroit direct f6A * 1
72 Tazer roof f6A+ 1
73 Bat f5 1

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