UKC

Climbs 234
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 185m a.s.l
Faces S

Chateauvert © Neil Foster

Crag features

A lovely set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered, wooded valley with a tranquil river running through it and some great climbing, only minutes from the road. If that sounds like a French Stoney Middleton or Avon Gorge - it isn't!

The rock is a coarse textured and heavily pocketed limestone, and climbing on it is a real pleasure though hands can suffer from a prolonged visit here. The routes are well bolted almost without exception, and there is a huge range of climbs to choose from. Many of the pitches are very long, bring plenty of quick-draws and take note of the length of the route versus the length of your rope!

Much of the crag faces pretty much south, it is recessed and well sheltered, especially from northerlies. The crag is an ideal winter venue and is always popular especially at weekends. It can get very hot here at almost any time of the year, though the crags at the far eastern end of the valley and much of the Grande Face are tipped a bit to the east and go into the shade earlier than the rest of the cliff.

Approach notes

The cliffs at Châteauvert - or the Rochers de Bagaredes, to give the crag its correct name - run to the north of the Argens river, 10km due north of Brignoles. Exit the A8 at Brignols (junction 35) and turn north from the roundabout on the ring road due north of the town centre onto the D554 - signed towards Le Val and Barjols. Just north of Le Val turn left (still on the D554) towards Châteauvert. After 9km cross the narrow bridge, turn right and follow the valley for 2km until the crags appear on the left, just round a sharp bend - ogling time has arrived.

Access Advice

All the roadside parking is now blocked off. You can park at either end of the gorge 1k east or 1.5k west of the grand face. A path has been installed from the east car park to the climbing. 

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Guidebooks

France : C?te d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
This crag as some of the best rock I have ever seen. a lovely spot to climb.
brianrunner - 05/Apr/12
Lovely spot to climb. Not too many really good easier routes but we enjoyed several good routes (especially Desir de Velours) before the rain started.
Rog Wilko - 19/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Grand Face
2 Béréchit
-
6b  
3 Bonze a l'aise
-
6b 3
4 Neuromediation 6c *** 12
5 Les hirondelles sont de retour 6b+ *** 15
6 La Salamandre 6b+ ** 3
7 Un hiver sans fin 5a * 4
8 Arielle 6b *** 28
9 La poursuite du gri-gri 6b *** 21
10 L'esprit du rat 6b+ *** 24
11 Béatitube 7a *** 14
12 Sweet smoke 8b *  
13 Are you ready? 8b+ ***  
14 Les frontiers du néant 7a *** 39
15 Le moutouki
-
7c  
16 Le moutouki Direct
-
8a  
17 Les couleurs du charme 7b+ *** 11
18 Le magicien d'Oz 7a+ *** 31
19 Yellow shark 7a **  
20 Autism 7b **  
21 Entropie 7a+ **  
22 La femme fatale 8b **  
23 Jazzogène 7c ***  
24 Marabout 7c **  
25 Marabout Extension 7c+ **  
26 Les sœurs "trou-trou" 8a **  
27 Abolition des privilèges 7a+ *** 17
28 Abolition des privilèges Extension 7c *** 1
29 Abolition des privilèges droite 7b+ *** 1
30 La forteresse du vide 7c+ **  
31 Le Diktateur 7c+ *** 3
32 Toréador, prends gard! 7b *  
33 La signe de taureau 7b+ *** 10
34 Léna bouddha 7c *  
35 Léna bouddha Extension 7c+ *  
36 So What? 8a *  
37 Kanao 7b *  
38 Kanao Extension 7c+ *  
39 Le Grand Neurone 8a **  
40 La Soif du Mal 8a *  
41 Quinoa 7c+ *  
42 Tchernobyl 7c *  
43 Faux Mouvements
-
7b+  
44 Tiané mobylette 7c *** 4
45 Mercurius 7c *** 2
46 Corto balèse 7c+ *** 2
47 Le chmatex 7a *** 30
48 Fleur carnivore 7b ** 1
49 Turbulences 7a+ *** 5
50 La disparition 7c+ **  
51 Abécédaire 6c+ *** 1
52 Habitus 6b+ *** 6
53 Right of Habitus
-
6b 2
  Le Muret to Westpoint
55 Thérèse troïka 6a+ *** 34
56 Red Cross 6b *** 27
57 Serpelin 6b+ *** 28
58 Destination liberté 6c+ *** 15
59 Embraye 6b ** 19
60 Strawberry nose 7a+ *** 8
61 Figue molle 6c *** 9
62 Un quart d'heure de folie 6b *** 20
63 Nuage 6b *** 28
64 Australie 6c+ *  
65 Cabriole 6b *** 25
66 La liberté c'est pas la porte à côté! 6c *** 9
67 Patagonie 7b+ *  
68 Cap Horn 7a *** 15
69 Igloo 6c+ *** 4
70 Terre de feu 7a+ *  
71 Transmutation 7b *** 5
72 Borderline 6b+ *** 10
73 Norbert et les Ayatollahs
-
7a+  
74 La voix de son double maître
-
7c **  
75 Les fachos de la barre a mine
-
7a+  
76 La vie est ailleurs
-
6c *  
77 Ego mégalo
-
6c+  
78 Ce que parler veut dire
-
7b+ *  
79 La santé parfaite
-
7b *  
80 Champagne supernova
-
7c+ *  
81 Récidive
-
6c **  
Climb name Grade
82 Le colibri 5c *** 26
83 Le syndrome de saumon 5c ** 8
84 Papa, on joue au foot? 6a+ *** 39
85 T'as pas cent balles? 6b ** 14
86 La santé par les plantes 6b+ ** 6
87 Les plantes qui savent 5c ** 14
88 Eole 5c *** 23
89 Ça glisse au pays des merveilles 5c *** 24
90 Saute Meissuge 4a * 11
91 Looping 4c * 19
92 La fête à neuneu 5c * 10
93 L'odeur des pierres 5c * 8
94 Les 101 Bactratiens 5a ** 21
95 Le marchand de sable 5c ** 21
96 Douce transe 5c * 8
97 Le râteau de la méduse 5a 4
98 Bonboundan 5c * 1
99 Cabessa de mule 6a * 7
100 Chipie 5c * 9
101 Choupette 5c * 7
102 Liqueur de chêne 5c * 8
103 La galéjade 6b+ ** 3
104 Les enfants du roc 6a *** 26
105 Westpoint 6b *** 15
106 Pog, Pog, Poggers' 6a+ ** 18
107 La Pirouette *
-
6b+ ** 1
  Alex
109 By night 6a ** 20
110 Gross et caille 5b ** 33
111 No problèm 5c * 22
112 Désire de velours 5b *** 57
113 Alex 5a *** 59
114 Aladin 4c ** 40
115 Jasmine 5a * 28
116 Baja 6c+ *  
117 Bounie
-
7b+ *  
118 La cadoune
-
7c *  
119 Tristes tropiques 7b+ ** 2
120 Caduveo
-
7c *  
121 Boroboro 6b+ ** 13
122 Mambikwara 7a *  
123 Yanomami
-
6c *  
  Technogène
125 Tintin
-
4a  
126 Professer Tournesol 4a 6
127 Dupond & Dupond
-
5c 2
128 Tchang 5c 5
129 Captaine Haddock 3a 6
130 La castafiore 3a 5
131 Milou
-
2a 2
132 Are you radin? 5a ** 16
133 Les frontières du néon 4c ** 16
134 Les odeurs du charme 5c *** 49
135 La flemme fatale 5c *** 41
136 Technogène 5c *** 47
137 Lycopodium 4c *** 47
138 Le Diktaton 4b *** 49
139 Le signe du blaireau 4c ** 18
140 Cadarache 4a * 17
141 La doctoresse du vide 4c ** 2
142 Terminator, prends garde! 4c ** 4
143 Parodie 6a *** 24
144 Canaquie 6b+ *** 34
145 Caldoquie 7a *** 20
146 Un juste retour des choses 6b ** 2
  Le Gaga
148 Bagarèdes 6a ** 10
149 Banlieue 6a *** 9
150 Comédie d'un jour 6a *** 25
151 Golot Fou 6a *** 34
152 Haltes passagères 5c *** 26
153 Tissus de corde 5c *** 18
154 Pipo solo 5a ** 25
155 La dulf du nain des falaises 6a+ ** 2
156 Verglas d'été 6c+ ** 6
157 Le fil d'Ariane 6a ** 30
158 Indiana Jones 6a+ ** 23
159 Et paf le chien! 6b+ ** 18
160 Le gaga 5c ** 10
161 Monsieur le Belge
-
7a+ *** 1
162 Le verin de l'archipel
-
7c+  
Climb name Grade
163 OK Bilboquet
-
6c+ *** 1
164 Le figolu
-
6c  
165 Petit brun
-
6b ** 2
  Roadside Buttresses
167 E'daski 6b ** 6
168 Alexandre du blocos 7c+ ** 1
169 Bill boulette 8a ** 1
170 My biautiful pioulette 7a+ *** 1
171 Hermine troutrou 7c *** 1
172 Coco bel œil 7a+ ** 3
173 Power 7b+ *** 7
174 Miss Tintinguette 7a *** 22
175 Fernando fait le rat
-
7c ** 1
176 Les eléments ne fond pas de cadeau 7b *** 6
177 Rage de dents 7a+ *** 6
178 Etranger aux vérités premières 6b+ ** 25
179 Ragondin 5c ** 15
180 Plume d'aigle 6a * 8
181 I had a dream 6c *** 16
182 Les quelles qui parlent
-
6b 6
183 Les assassins sont parmi nous 6a+ ** 6
184 Le sot périlleux 6b ** 24
185 Pleine lune 7a+ *** 11
186 Défi 7b+ ** 6
187 Moon Safari 8a+ ***  
188 Métèque et mat 6b+ ** 8
189 Croc range
-
6a 2
190 Luther King 6a ** 11
191 Retour de manivelle 5b * 11
192 Africa Queen 6a+ *** 10
193 Moksha * 6b * 2
  Grotte d'Atlantis
195 Ema 5c ** 2
196 L'iris 6a * 1
197 Kntz 6b *** 12
198 L'ange bafoué 6a ** 4
199 Keketols on the moon 6a+ *** 15
200 Casque bleu 6b * 5
201 Crève la dalle 6a *** 12
202 Fortitude 5c *** 9
203 Couleurs d'origine 6b *** 4
204 Réveil matin 6b *** 11
205 Quand les fusils se taisent... 6c ** 4
206 Quinze minutes 6b *** 2
207 Bouquet des nerfs 7b **  
208 L'essaim de nat 6b *** 16
209 Kricket 7c *** 6
210 Koksinel 6a *** 26
211 Kholéoptèr 5c *** 15
212 Kloport 5c *** 4
213 Uzeb 7c+ ** 1
214 Huit B'52 8a+ **  
215 Atlantis 8a ***  
216 Le tyran domestique 8a+ *  
217 Vigie pictrate 6c *** 6
218 Riquiki
-
6a **  
219 Maousse kosto
-
6c+ **  
220 Aqualung
-
6b ** 4
221 Sorglume
-
6a+ ** 1
  L'Hacienda
223 Play with toys
-
6a *  
224 Once in a lifetime
-
6a+ *  
225 Papa was a Rolling Stone
-
7a+ *  
226 Sunflower
-
8a *  
227 Psychokiller
-
7a+ ***  
228 The method to our madness
-
8b  
229 Zen arcade
-
7b+ **  
230 Nan'Cherry
-
6c+ **  
231 Blablabla
-
6c *** 1
232 Le conifère Jamaican
-
6c+ ***  
233 La ronde des helicos
-
6b+ **  
234 Restons Francais, soyons Gaulois
-
6a+ *** 1
235 La ballard de Jim
-
6a *** 3
236 Zig zag avec toi
-
6b+ *  
237 J'aime regarder les filles
-
6b ** 2
238 Traces de toi
-
6b **  
239 Casa Babylon
-
5c ** 1
240 P'tis pois/lardons
-
6a+ *  
  WHERE ARE THESE???
242 Louis
-
6a+ *** 1
243 Fidele Gastro
-
6a+ 8
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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