Climbs 234
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 185m a.s.l
Faces S

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Chateauvert © Neil Foster

Crag features

A lovely set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered, wooded valley with a tranquil river running through it and some great climbing, only minutes from the road. If that sounds like a French Stoney Middleton or Avon Gorge - it isn't!

The rock is a coarse textured and heavily pocketed limestone, and climbing on it is a real pleasure though hands can suffer from a prolonged visit here. The routes are well bolted almost without exception, and there is a huge range of climbs to choose from. Many of the pitches are very long, bring plenty of quick-draws and take note of the length of the route versus the length of your rope!

Much of the crag faces pretty much south, it is recessed and well sheltered, especially from northerlies. The crag is an ideal winter venue and is always popular especially at weekends. It can get very hot here at almost any time of the year, though the crags at the far eastern end of the valley and much of the Grande Face are tipped a bit to the east and go into the shade earlier than the rest of the cliff.

Approach notes

The cliffs at Châteauvert - or the Rochers de Bagaredes, to give the crag its correct name - run to the north of the Argens river, 10km due north of Brignoles. Exit the A8 at Brignols (junction 35) and turn north from the roundabout on the ring road due north of the town centre onto the D554 - signed towards Le Val and Barjols. Just north of Le Val turn left (still on the D554) towards Châteauvert. After 9km cross the narrow bridge, turn right and follow the valley for 2km until the crags appear on the left, just round a sharp bend - ogling time has arrived.

Access Advice

All the roadside parking is now blocked off. You can park at either end of the gorge 1k east or 1.5k west of the grand face. A path has been installed from the east car park to the climbing. 

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Guidebooks

This crag as some of the best rock I have ever seen. a lovely spot to climb.
brianrunner - 05/Apr/12
Lovely spot to climb. Not too many really good easier routes but we enjoyed several good routes (especially Desir de Velours) before the rain started.
Rog Wilko - 19/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Grand Face
2 Béréchit
-
6b  
3 Bonze a l'aise
-
6b 4
4 Neuromediation 6c *** 17
5 Les hirondelles sont de retour 6b+ *** 20
6 La Salamandre 6b+ ** 3
7 Un hiver sans fin 5a * 5
8 Arielle 6b *** 38
9 La poursuite du gri-gri 6b *** 27
10 L'esprit du rat 6b+ *** 38
11 Béatitube 7a *** 22
12 Sweet smoke 8b *  
13 Are you ready? 8b+ ***  
14 Les frontiers du néant 7a *** 55
15 Le moutouki
-
7c  
16 Le moutouki Direct
-
8a  
17 Les couleurs du charme 7b+ *** 15
18 Le magicien d'Oz 7a+ *** 48
19 Yellow shark 7a **  
20 Autism 7b **  
21 Entropie 7a+ **  
22 La femme fatale 8b **  
23 Jazzogène 7c ***  
24 Marabout 7c **  
25 Marabout Extension 7c+ **  
26 Les sœurs "trou-trou" 8a **  
27 Abolition des privilèges 7a+ *** 27
28 Abolition des privilèges Extension 7c *** 2
29 Abolition des privilèges droite 7b+ *** 2
30 La forteresse du vide 7c+ **  
31 Le Diktateur 7c+ *** 4
32 Toréador, prends gard! 7b *  
33 La signe de taureau 7b+ *** 15
34 Léna bouddha 7c *  
35 Léna bouddha Extension 7c+ *  
36 So What? 8a *  
37 Kanao 7b *  
38 Kanao Extension 7c+ *  
39 Le Grand Neurone 8a **  
40 La Soif du Mal 8a *  
41 Quinoa 7c+ *  
42 Tchernobyl 7c *  
43 Faux Mouvements
-
7b+  
44 Tiané mobylette 7c *** 6
45 Mercurius 7c *** 2
46 Corto balèse 7c+ *** 2
47 Le chmatex 7a *** 36
48 Fleur carnivore 7b ** 1
49 Turbulences 7a+ *** 5
50 La disparition 7c+ **  
51 Abécédaire 6c+ *** 1
52 Habitus 6b+ *** 7
53 Right of Habitus
-
6b 2
  Le Muret to Westpoint
55 Thérèse troïka 6a+ *** 46
56 Red Cross 6b *** 35
57 Serpelin 6b+ *** 36
58 Destination liberté 6c+ *** 17
59 Embraye 6b ** 20
60 Strawberry nose 7a+ *** 10
61 Figue molle 6c *** 9
62 Un quart d'heure de folie 6b *** 26
63 Nuage 6b *** 29
64 Australie 6c+ *  
65 Cabriole 6b *** 26
66 La liberté c'est pas la porte à côté! 6c *** 12
67 Patagonie 7b+ *  
68 Cap Horn 7a *** 24
69 Igloo 6c+ *** 5
70 Terre de feu 7a+ *  
71 Transmutation 7b *** 7
72 Borderline 6b+ *** 12
73 Norbert et les Ayatollahs
-
7a+  
74 La voix de son double maître
-
7c **  
75 Les fachos de la barre a mine
-
7a+  
76 La vie est ailleurs
-
6c *  
77 Ego mégalo
-
6c+  
78 Ce que parler veut dire
-
7b+ *  
79 La santé parfaite
-
7b *  
80 Champagne supernova
-
7c+ *  
81 Récidive
-
6c **  
Climb name Grade
82 Le colibri 5c *** 28
83 Le syndrome de saumon 5c ** 8
84 Papa, on joue au foot? 6a+ *** 42
85 T'as pas cent balles? 6b ** 14
86 La santé par les plantes 6b+ ** 6
87 Les plantes qui savent 5c ** 15
88 Eole 5c *** 26
89 Ça glisse au pays des merveilles 5c *** 25
90 Saute Meissuge 4a * 12
91 Looping 4c * 21
92 La fête à neuneu 5c * 11
93 L'odeur des pierres 5c * 9
94 Les 101 Bactratiens 5a ** 23
95 Le marchand de sable 5c ** 26
96 Douce transe 5c * 9
97 Le râteau de la méduse 5a 5
98 Bonboundan 5c * 1
99 Cabessa de mule 6a * 7
100 Chipie 5c * 12
101 Choupette 5c * 8
102 Liqueur de chêne 5c * 7
103 La galéjade 6b+ ** 5
104 Fidele Gastro 6a+ 8
105 Les enfants du roc 6a *** 30
106 Westpoint 6b *** 18
107 Pog, Pog, Poggers' 6a+ ** 18
108 La Pirouette *
-
6b+ ** 2
  Alex
110 By night 6a ** 22
111 Gross et caille 5b ** 37
112 No problèm 5c * 25
113 Désire de velours 5b *** 62
114 Alex 5a *** 62
115 Aladin 4c ** 41
116 Jasmine 5a * 29
117 Baja 6c+ *  
118 Bounie
-
7b+ *  
119 La cadoune
-
7c *  
120 Tristes tropiques 7b+ ** 2
121 Caduveo
-
7c *  
122 Boroboro 6b+ ** 15
123 Mambikwara 7a * 1
124 Yanomami
-
6c *  
  Technogène
126 Tintin
-
4a  
127 Professer Tournesol 4a 6
128 Dupond & Dupond
-
5c 2
129 Tchang 5c 5
130 Captaine Haddock 3a 6
131 La castafiore 3a 5
132 Milou
-
2a 2
133 Are you radin? 5a ** 16
134 Les frontières du néon 4c ** 16
135 Les odeurs du charme 5c *** 55
136 La flemme fatale 5c *** 48
137 Technogène 5c *** 53
138 Lycopodium 4c *** 50
139 Le Diktaton 4b *** 57
140 Le signe du blaireau 4c ** 19
141 Cadarache 4a * 21
142 La doctoresse du vide 4c ** 2
143 Terminator, prends garde! 4c ** 4
144 Parodie 6a *** 28
145 Canaquie 6b+ *** 40
146 Caldoquie 7a *** 26
147 Un juste retour des choses 6b ** 2
  Le Gaga
149 Bagarèdes 6a ** 11
150 Banlieue 6a *** 10
151 Comédie d'un jour 6a *** 28
152 Golot Fou 6a *** 45
153 Haltes passagères 5c *** 33
154 Tissus de corde 5c *** 20
155 Pipo solo 5a ** 27
156 La dulf du nain des falaises 6a+ ** 3
157 Verglas d'été 6c+ ** 6
158 Le fil d'Ariane 6a ** 33
159 Indiana Jones 6a+ ** 26
160 Et paf le chien! 6b+ ** 20
161 Le gaga 5c ** 12
162 Monsieur le Belge
-
7a+ *** 1
Climb name Grade
163 Le verin de l'archipel
-
7c+  
164 OK Bilboquet
-
6c+ *** 1
165 Le figolu
-
6c  
166 Petit brun
-
6b ** 2
  Roadside Buttresses
168 E'daski 6b ** 7
169 Alexandre du blocos 7c+ ** 1
170 Bill boulette 8a ** 1
171 My biautiful pioulette 7a+ *** 2
172 Hermine troutrou 7c *** 1
173 Coco bel œil 7a+ ** 3
174 Power 7b+ *** 7
175 Miss Tintinguette 7a *** 33
176 Fernando fait le rat
-
7c ** 1
177 Les eléments ne fond pas de cadeau 7b *** 9
178 Rage de dents 7a+ *** 9
179 Etranger aux vérités premières 6b+ ** 31
180 Ragondin 5c ** 17
181 Plume d'aigle 6a * 8
182 I had a dream 6c *** 19
183 Les quelles qui parlent
-
6b 6
184 Les assassins sont parmi nous 6a+ ** 6
185 Le sot périlleux 6b ** 25
186 Pleine lune 7a+ *** 12
187 Défi 7b+ ** 6
188 Moon Safari 8a+ ***  
189 Métèque et mat 6b+ ** 9
190 Croc range
-
6a 2
191 Luther King 6a ** 13
192 Retour de manivelle 5b * 11
193 Africa Queen 6a+ *** 10
194 Moksha * 6b * 2
  Grotte d'Atlantis
196 Ema 5c ** 4
197 L'iris 6a * 2
198 Kntz 6b *** 16
199 L'ange bafoué 6a ** 4
200 Keketols on the moon 6a+ *** 16
201 Casque bleu 6b * 7
202 Crève la dalle 6a *** 17
203 Fortitude 5c *** 9
204 Couleurs d'origine 6b *** 6
205 Réveil matin 6b *** 12
206 Quand les fusils se taisent... 6c ** 4
207 Quinze minutes 6b *** 2
208 Bouquet des nerfs 7b ** 1
209 L'essaim de nat 6b *** 20
210 Kricket 7c *** 8
211 Koksinel 6a *** 34
212 Kholéoptèr 5c *** 16
213 Kloport 5c *** 4
214 Uzeb 7c+ ** 1
215 Huit B'52 8a+ **  
216 Atlantis 8a ***  
217 Le tyran domestique 8a+ *  
218 Vigie pictrate 6c *** 7
219 Riquiki
-
6a **  
220 Maousse kosto
-
6c+ **  
221 Aqualung
-
6b ** 4
222 Sorglume
-
6a+ ** 1
  L'Hacienda
224 Play with toys
-
6a *  
225 Once in a lifetime
-
6a+ *  
226 Papa was a Rolling Stone
-
7a+ *  
227 Sunflower
-
8a *  
228 Psychokiller
-
7a+ ***  
229 The method to our madness
-
8b  
230 Zen arcade
-
7b+ **  
231 Nan'Cherry
-
6c+ **  
232 Blablabla
-
6c *** 1
233 Le conifère Jamaican
-
6c+ ***  
234 La ronde des helicos
-
6b+ **  
235 Restons Francais, soyons Gaulois
-
6a+ *** 1
236 La ballard de Jim
-
6a *** 3
237 Zig zag avec toi
-
6b+ *  
238 J'aime regarder les filles
-
6b ** 2
239 Traces de toi
-
6b **  
240 Casa Babylon
-
5c ** 1
241 P'tis pois/lardons
-
6a+ *  
  WHERE ARE THESE???
243 Louis *
-
6a+ *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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