Climbs 232
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 185m a.s.l
Faces S

Chateauvert © Neil Foster

Crag features

A lovely set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered, wooded valley with a tranquil river running through it and some great climbing, only minutes from the road. If that sounds like a French Stoney Middleton or Avon Gorge - it isn't!

The rock is a coarse textured and heavily pocketed limestone, and climbing on it is a real pleasure though hands can suffer from a prolonged visit here. The routes are well bolted almost without exception, and there is a huge range of climbs to choose from. Many of the pitches are very long, bring plenty of quick-draws and take note of the length of the route versus the length of your rope!

Much of the crag faces pretty much south, it is recessed and well sheltered, especially from northerlies. The crag is an ideal winter venue and is always popular especially at weekends. It can get very hot here at almost any time of the year, though the crags at the far eastern end of the valley and much of the Grande Face are tipped a bit to the east and go into the shade earlier than the rest of the cliff.

Approach notes

The cliffs at Châteauvert - or the Rochers de Bagaredes, to give the crag its correct name - run to the north of the Argens river, 10km due north of Brignoles. Exit the A8 at Brignols (junction 35) and turn north from the roundabout on the ring road due north of the town centre onto the D554 - signed towards Le Val and Barjols. Just north of Le Val turn left (still on the D554) towards Châteauvert. After 9km cross the narrow bridge, turn right and follow the valley for 2km until the crags appear on the left, just round a sharp bend - ogling time has arrived.

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Guidebooks

France : C?te d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
This crag as some of the best rock I have ever seen. a lovely spot to climb.
brianrunner - 05/Apr/12
Lovely spot to climb. Not too many really good easier routes but we enjoyed several good routes (especially Desir de Velours) before the rain started.
Rog Wilko - 19/May/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Grand Face
2 Béréchit
-
6b  
3 Bonze a l'aise
-
6b 3
4 Neuromediation 6c *** 10
5 Les hirondelles sont de retour 6b+ *** 13
6 La Salamandre 6b+ ** 1
7 Un hiver sans fin 5a * 3
8 Arielle 6b *** 23
9 La poursuite du gri-gri 6b *** 15
10 L'esprit du rat 6b+ *** 18
11 Béatitube 7a *** 11
12 Sweet smoke 8b *  
13 Are you ready? 8b+ ***  
14 Les frontiers du néant 7a *** 28
15 Le moutouki
-
7c  
16 Le moutouki Direct
-
8a  
17 Les couleurs du charme 7b+ *** 9
18 Le magicien d'Oz 7a+ *** 25
19 Yellow shark 7a **  
20 Autism 7b **  
21 Entropie 7a+ **  
22 La femme fatale 8b **  
23 Jazzogène 7c ***  
24 Marabout 7c **  
25 Marabout Extension 7c+ **  
26 Les sœurs "trou-trou" 8a **  
27 Abolition des privilèges 7a+ *** 14
28 Abolition des privilèges Extension 7c ***  
29 Abolition des privilèges droite 7b+ ***  
30 La forteresse du vide 7c+ **  
31 Le Diktateur 7c+ *** 2
32 Toréador, prends gard! 7b *  
33 La signe de taureau 7b+ *** 9
34 Léna bouddha 7c *  
35 Léna bouddha Extension 7c+ *  
36 So What? 8a *  
37 Kanao 7b *  
38 Kanao Extension 7c+ *  
39 Le Grand Neurone 8a **  
40 La Soif du Mal 8a *  
41 Quinoa 7c+ *  
42 Tchernobyl 7c *  
43 Faux Mouvements
-
7b+  
44 Tiané mobylette 7c *** 3
45 Mercurius 7c *** 1
46 Corto balèse 7c+ *** 2
47 Le chmatex 7a *** 23
48 Fleur carnivore 7b ** 1
49 Turbulences 7a+ *** 4
50 La disparition 7c+ **  
51 Abécédaire 6c+ ***  
52 Habitus 6b+ *** 4
53 Right of Habitus
-
6b 1
  Le Muret to Westpoint
55 Thérèse troïka 6a+ *** 28
56 Red Cross 6b *** 20
57 Serpelin 6b+ *** 23
58 Destination liberté 6c+ *** 12
59 Embraye 6b ** 16
60 Strawberry nose 7a+ *** 8
61 Figue molle 6c *** 6
62 Un quart d'heure de folie 6b *** 17
63 Nuage 6b *** 21
64 Australie 6c+ *  
65 Cabriole 6b *** 17
66 La liberté c'est pas la porte à côté! 6c *** 6
67 Patagonie 7b+ *  
68 Cap Horn 7a *** 10
69 Igloo 6c+ *** 2
70 Terre de feu 7a+ *  
71 Transmutation 7b *** 3
72 Borderline 6b+ *** 8
73 Norbert et les Ayatollahs
-
7a+  
74 La voix de son double maître
-
7c **  
75 Les fachos de la barre a mine
-
7a+  
76 La vie est ailleurs
-
6c *  
77 Ego mégalo
-
6c+  
78 Ce que parler veut dire
-
7b+ *  
79 La santé parfaite
-
7b *  
80 Champagne supernova
-
7c+ *  
81 Récidive
-
6c **  
82 Le colibri 5c *** 22
83 Le syndrome de saumon 5c ** 6
84 Papa, on joue au foot? 6a+ *** 29
85 T'as pas cent balles? 6b ** 11
86 La santé par les plantes 6b+ ** 6
87 Les plantes qui savent 5c ** 13
88 Eole 5c *** 21
89 Ça glisse au pays des merveilles 5c *** 21
90 Saute Meissuge 4a * 9
91 Looping 4c * 16
92 La fête à neuneu 5c * 8
93 L'odeur des pierres 5c * 7
94 Les 101 Bactratiens 5a ** 19
95 Le marchand de sable 5c ** 17
96 Douce transe 5c * 8
97 Le râteau de la méduse 5a 3
98 Bonboundan 5c * 1
99 Cabessa de mule 6a * 5
100 Chipie 5c * 5
101 Choupette 5c * 6
102 Liqueur de chêne 5c * 7
103 La galéjade 6b+ ** 2
104 Les enfants du roc 6a *** 21
105 Westpoint 6b *** 11
106 Pog, Pog, Poggers' 6a+ ** 15
  Alex
108 By night 6a ** 18
109 Gross et caille 5b ** 29
110 No problèm 5c * 20
111 Désire de velours 5b *** 51
112 Alex 5a *** 50
113 Aladin 4c ** 39
114 Jasmine 5a * 28
115 Baja 6c+ *  
116 Bounie
-
7b+ *  
117 La cadoune
-
7c *  
118 Tristes tropiques 7b+ ** 1
119 Caduveo
-
7c *  
120 Boroboro 6b+ ** 13
121 Mambikwara 7a *  
122 Yanomami
-
6c *  
  Technogène
124 Tintin
-
4a  
125 Professer Tournesol 4a 6
126 Dupond & Dupond
-
5c 2
127 Tchang 5c 5
128 Captaine Haddock 3 6
129 La castafiore 3 5
130 Milou
-
2 2
131 Are you radin? 5a ** 16
132 Les frontières du néon 4c ** 15
133 Les odeurs du charme 5c *** 47
134 La flemme fatale 5c *** 39
135 Technogène 5c *** 43
136 Lycopodium 4c *** 40
137 Le Diktaton 4b *** 44
138 Le signe du blaireau 4c ** 16
139 Cadarache 4a * 17
140 La doctoresse du vide 4c ** 2
141 Terminator, prends garde! 4c ** 4
142 Parodie 6a *** 21
143 Canaquie 6b+ *** 28
144 Caldoquie 7a *** 16
145 Un juste retour des choses 6b ** 1
  Le Gaga
147 Bagarèdes 6a ** 10
148 Banlieue 6a *** 8
149 Comédie d'un jour 6a *** 21
150 Golot Fou 6a *** 31
151 Haltes passagères 5c *** 20
152 Tissus de corde 5c *** 16
153 Pipo solo 5a ** 22
154 La dulf du nain des falaises 6a+ ** 2
155 Verglas d'été 6c+ ** 6
156 Le fil d'Ariane 6a ** 28
157 Indiana Jones 6a+ ** 21
158 Et paf le chien! 6b+ ** 16
159 Le gaga 5c ** 9
160 Monsieur le Belge
-
7a+ *** 1
161 Le verin de l'archipel
-
7c+  
162 OK Bilboquet
-
6c+ *** 1
163 Le figolu
-
6c  
164 Petit brun
-
6b ** 2
  Roadside Buttresses
166 E'daski 6b ** 6
167 Alexandre du blocos 7c+ **  
168 Bill boulette 8a **  
169 My biautiful pioulette 7a+ *** 1
170 Hermine troutrou 7c ***  
171 Coco bel œil 7a+ ** 2
172 Power 7b+ *** 6
173 Miss Tintinguette 7a *** 15
174 Fernando fait le rat
-
7c ** 1
175 Les eléments ne fond pas de cadeau 7b *** 4
176 Rage de dents 7a+ *** 4
177 Etranger aux vérités premières 6b+ ** 21
178 Ragondin 5c ** 13
179 Plume d'aigle 6a * 4
180 I had a dream 6c *** 16
181 Les quelles qui parlent
-
6b 4
182 Les assassins sont parmi nous 6a+ ** 6
183 Le sot périlleux 6b ** 23
184 Pleine lune 7a+ *** 10
185 Défi 7b+ ** 5
186 Moon Safari 8a+ ***  
187 Métèque et mat 6b+ ** 7
188 Croc range
-
6a 1
189 Luther King 6a ** 10
190 Retour de manivelle 5b * 10
191 Africa Queen 6a+ *** 7
  Grotte d'Atlantis
193 Ema 5c ** 2
194 L'iris 6a * 1
195 Kntz 6b *** 11
196 L'ange bafoué 6a ** 3
197 Keketols on the moon 6a+ *** 15
198 Casque bleu 6b * 4
199 Crève la dalle 6a *** 10
200 Fortitude 5c *** 7
201 Couleurs d'origine 6b *** 4
202 Réveil matin 6b *** 11
203 Quand les fusils se taisent... 6c ** 4
204 Quinze minutes 6b *** 2
205 Bouquet des nerfs 7b **  
206 L'essaim de nat 6b *** 15
207 Kricket 7c *** 5
208 Koksinel 6a *** 23
209 Kholéoptèr 5c *** 13
210 Kloport 5c *** 4
211 Uzeb 7c+ ** 1
212 Huit B'52 8a+ **  
213 Atlantis 8a ***  
214 Le tyran domestique 8a+ *  
215 Vigie pictrate 6c *** 6
216 Riquiki
-
6a **  
217 Maousse kosto
-
6c+ **  
218 Aqualung
-
6b ** 4
219 Sorglume
-
6a+ ** 1
  L'Hacienda
221 Play with toys
-
6a *  
222 Once in a lifetime
-
6a+ *  
223 Papa was a Rolling Stone
-
7a+ *  
224 Sunflower
-
8a *  
225 Psychokiller
-
7a+ ***  
226 The method to our madness
-
8b  
227 Zen arcade
-
7b+ **  
228 Nan'Cherry
-
6c+ **  
229 Blablabla
-
6c ***  
230 Le conifère Jamaican
-
6c+ ***  
231 La ronde des helicos
-
6b+ **  
232 Restons Francais, soyons Gaulois
-
6a+ ***  
233 La ballard de Jim
-
6a *** 2
234 Zig zag avec toi
-
6b+ *  
235 J'aime regarder les filles
-
6b ** 2
236 Traces de toi
-
6b **  
237 Casa Babylon
-
5c **  
238 P'tis pois/lardons
-
6a+ *  
  WHERE ARE THESE???
240 Louis
-
6a+ *** 1
241 Fidele Gastro
-
6a+ 5

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