UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 226m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

Minor collection of small limestone buttresses situated in a quiet and secluded location in the woods immediately above the southern end of Shorncliff. Of interest to those seeking an escape from the polished rock of the climbing rat-race and intrepid enough to venture off the beaten track. Climbs vary in quality.

Approach notes

Access for parking as per Tintern quarry, pass the forest barrier at the right end of the car park and head for Shorncliff taking the main forestry track for half a mile until the recently diverted Offa's Dyke footpath departs right signed Devil's Pulpit. Follow this to a T junction where the old path is closed off on the right, turn left and head downhill for five minutes until a fork and take the right fork up hill for just 25 metres before leaving the path to the left to find the crag.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Greengage VS 4c 3
2 Corax VS 4c * 1
3 Sign o' the times HVS 5a ** 1
  Seventh Buttress
5 Plum Slab *
-
VS 5a  
6 Plum Crack *
-
D  
7 Plum Prow *
-
VS 4c  
8 Plum Corner *
-
HS 4a  
9 Plum Face *
-
VS 4b  
10 Weir Arete *
-
VS 4c  
11 Weir Corner *
-
VD  
12 Weir Eliminate *
-
HVS 6a  
13 Weir Wall *
-
VS 5a  
14 Weir Scoop *
-
VS 4c  
15 Weir Rib *
-
VD  
16 Weir Face *
-
VS 4b  
Climb name Grade
  Sixth Buttress
18 Sense of Being Small *
-
E1 5b  
19 Shard of Solstice *
-
E1 5b *  
20 Silver Moon Wood *
-
E1 5b *  
21 Dangerous Games *
-
E2 5b  
22 Belated Birthday Climb *
-
S 4a *  
23 Shere Khan *
-
VS 4c  
  Fifth Buttress
25 Wedged Block Route *
-
HS 4b  
26 Pentateuch *
-
E5 6b  
27 Damson *
-
VS 4c  
28 Mirabelle *
-
HVS 5a *  
29 Stocking and Suspender *
-
E1 5b  
30 Escape the System *
-
VS 4c  
31 Yule Cometh *
-
VS 4c  
Climb name Grade
  Fourth Butress
33 Burning Bright *
-
S 4a  
34 Tiger Tiger *
-
E1 5b  
35 Thee Faction *
-
HVS 5a  
36 Baader Meinhof *
-
VS 4c  
  Third Buttress
38 Lost Wedding Ring *
-
VS 4b  
39 Seth's Fourth Birthday *
-
S 4a  
40 Shortest Day of the Year *
-
VD  
  Second Buttress
42 Eye of the Tiger *
-
E5 6a *  
43 Corvus *
-
VS 4c  
  First Buttress
45 Plums on Offa *
-
HVS 5b  
46 Dick Van Dyke *
-
S 4a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mick Riley