Climbs 150
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 2238m a.s.l
Faces SE

Cinque Torri panorama © James Rushforth

Crag features

Cinque Torri, meaning "Five Towers", is a group of actually more than 5 towers that lies on the south slopes of Falzarego Pass above Cortina d'Ampezzo. It is part of the larger Averau-Nuvolau group in the Cortina Dolomites. The climbs are short - no more than 220 m and usually more like 50 to 150 m - and the peak elevations are low (around 2700m). They are therefore ideal when time is short, for training, for beginners or when the weather is poor in the higher peaks. Every difficulty from UIAA III (5.2) on up can be found. Much protection, almost all belay stances and rappel anchors are fixed.

The five main towers are:

# Torre Grande, split into three blocks known as Cima Sud, Cima Nord and Cima Ovest.

# Seconda Torre , made of Torre Lusy, Torre del Barancio and Torre Romana.

# Terza Torre is also known as Torre Latina.

# Quarta Torre made of Alta and Bassa.

# Quinta Torre also known as Torre Inglese.

# One small tower, Torre Trephor, NE of the main group, fell a few years ago. It serves to remind us, how we must enjoy life and climbing while it is there!

Approach notes

The towers can be approached from Cortina in the east, or the Alta Badia to the west. From Cortina take the SS48 following signs for the 'Falzarego Pass'. Follow the road for just under 15km until you reach the large and well signed 'Cinque Torri chairlift' and 'Rifugio Bai de Dones' car park on your left. The chairlift runs from early June to late September and leads to Rifugio Scoiattoli which overlooks the towers. It is also possible to walk up under the chairlift, which takes about an hour.

Alternatively, before reaching the chairlift car park, there is an access track which can be used to drive to the towers. Turn off at a 112km milestone following signs for 'Rifugio Cinque Torri'. Follow this track steeply for 3km and park just before the rifugio. The towers are clearly visible from the parking area. This access road is a steep single-lane road with infrequent passing places and limited parking at the top, so an early start is essential. Additionally, this track is closed between 9:30 and 15:30 during August (and at other periods during the season) and a shuttle bus service runs (most of the time) during these hours.

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Guidebooks

The Dolomites : Rock Climbs and Via Ferrata

A big book to the magnificent Dolomites in northern Italy. This guide covers everything you need for a climbing trip regardless of ability, whether it be sport, trad, via ferrata or a combination of all three. It features all the major areas and is the only guidebook available to have such comprehensive coverage.
More info
The descriptions and grading for via normale on torre inglese and torre Latina north face are mixed up.
afshapes - 12/Sep/15
Much like "strange little creature" this was our first route on our first visit in June 2005. I debated about big boots / rock boots and went for the big ones which I regretted. The sparcity of bolts was a bit of a shock. My experience on the early crux was much as "strange's". An early shock but boldness saw through. I had a small christmas cracker compass on my rucsac which was very useful (invaluable) for locating descents.
nocker - 30/Sep/06
This was my 1st climb in the Dolomites. The Crux move on the west face is on the 1st pitch (facing the refuge with everyone!! watching you thru binoculars) is the hardest with a bold overhanging crux move just below the 1st belay. you'll know when you get to it as you are bent over backwards and will be looking up thru a gap between two halves of a slight roof. Move confidently right for about 1 metre and there you will see a bolt above you. Get your hands high lock in, get your left foot as high as it will go and PULL!! up and left. There will be half a second of "this dos'nt feel very nice!" and then your up. Theres not much for the feet on the move but the hand holds are good and once you are over you get lots to put your feet on. Very subtly the locals will stop and watch you do this move. The descent is by bolted rappel, there are three and the start is visible over the other side of the flat summit. Dont ab too fast or you'll miss the bolts. So read the guide book.
Strange little creature - 21/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Torre Grande - Cima Ovest
2 Sinfonia da Hilti 6b ** 3
3 Alta marea 6b+ *** 4
4 Pompa pompa 6c *** 3
5 Mimosa 5c ** 8
6 Armida VI ** 16
7 Fulmini e saette 6a+ *** 10
8 Onorevole Cicciolina 6b+ *** 6
9 Onorevole Cicciolina (P1) 6a ** 12
10 Chiaro di luna 6a+ ** 14
11 Sir. Biss VI- ** 3
12 Via Olga V+ *** 25
13 Via delle guide IV+ ** 148
14 Slabs Left 5a * 20
15 Slabs Right 5c ** 20
16 Fra fra 6a *** 22
17 Zebra Zabra 6a+ ** 15
18 Rosamunda 5b *** 34
19 Thomas 6a+ ** 4
  Torre Grande - Cima Sud
21 Far Left 6a+ ** 9
22 Agrodolce 6b ** 8
23 Equipe 84 6b *** 5
24 Ramba Balu 7b *** 4
25 Ci vuole un fisico bestiale 6b+ ** 3
26 Fandango 6c ** 4
27 Tommy Tom 6c ** 6
28 Variante Tommy Tom 7b *** 2
29 Morfologica 7b **  
30 Calippo 8a+ **  
31 Variante Franceschi 7b+ **  
32 Franceschi VI+ *** 19
33 Footuk 7b * 2
34 Via col vento VII+ * 2
35 Variante via col vento 7b+ *  
36 Direttissima Scoiattoli VIII- *** 11
37 Variante direttissima 7a * 3
38 Spit express 6c+ ** 2
39 Pazzia rock 7c+ * 1
40 Araxas Project  
41 Sulle ali di Dedalo 7a+ * 1
42 Nordica 7a+ *  
43 Nordica Right 6c * 1
44 W lo spot 7a ** 1
45 Myriam V+ *** 171
46 Diretta Dimai VI+ *** 13
47 The Left-hand Line 6c+ *  
48 The Right-hand Line 6a+ * 1
49 Raponzole 6a+ * 1
50 Fessura Dimai VI- ** 25
51 Nuova Germana 7a **  
  Torre Grande - Cima Nord
53 Idefix 7a **  
54 Finlandia VI+ *** 79
55 Clarissa 7a ** 1
56 Columbus 7a *** 7
57 Farouk Left 7a+ **  
58 Farouk 7a+ ***  
59 Ro Ko Ko 6c  
60 Asterix 6c  
61 Olimpic games 6b  
62 Via Dimai V+ * 9
63 Via Dibona V * 5
64 Variante Dibona 5a 1
  Sasso Cubico
66 Swing 6a ** 8
67 La danza Left 6a+ 1
68 La danza di Pier 6a * 12
69 Spigolo 7a+ ** 2
70 Ha chiamato kubista 8b ***  
71 Telefono azzurro 8a *** 3
72 Cliffhanger 8a ***  
73 Cliffhanger Right 7c+ *** 1
74 Houi 7a+ *  
  Torre Seconda - South Faces
76 Via del camino III ** 11
77 Attenti al lupo 6a+ ** 7
78 Via Crupp 6a+ ** 4
79 Alba chiara 6b ** 4
80 Zandalee 7a  
81 Project One ?  
82 Fantasia 6c+ 1
83 Per Elisa 6b+ 1
84 Selezione Guide 2003 6c ** 3
85 Vague Arete 7b+ *  
86 Project Two ?  
  Torre Seconda - North Faces
88 Via Lusy Pompanin IV- *** 128
89 Via Ignazio Dibona IV+ *** 70
90 Via del Diedro - Torre del Barancio Summit
-
IV+ *** 41
91 Via del Diedro IV+ *** 46
92 Strani pensieri 6c *** 2
  Torre Terze/Latina
94 SoR One 6a+ * 1
95 Dau'delle nevi 7a * 2
96 SoR Three 6b *  
97 SoR Four 6a * 3
98 Via Normale IV- *** 31
99 School of Rock #1 4c ** 24
100 School of Rock #2 5a ** 23
101 School of Rock #3 4a ** 15
102 School of Rock #4 4a ** 18
103 School of Rock #5 4b ** 29
104 School of Rock #6 4a ** 28
105 School of Rock #7 4c ** 31
106 School of Rock #8 4c ** 19
107 School of Rock #9 5a * 26
108 School of Rock #10 4b * 25
109 School of Rock #11 4c ** 27
  Massi
111 Nirvana 7b ** 1
112 Blob 5c ** 14
113 Strip strip 5b * 13
114 Tetto Marcello 6b *** 18
115 Bibi e Bibo 5c *** 17
116 Match 3 6c+ 1
117 Fulminetor 8a+ ** 2
118 Senza nome (Massi Slab right) 6b 1
119 Senza nome (Massi Slab left)
-
6b 1
  Torre Trephor
121 Trephor Slab 6c+ *** 19
  Torre Quarta Alta and Bassa, South Faces
123 Love you 6a * 10
124 Le tette di Paola (left) 7a+ **  
125 Le tette di Paola (right) 6c ** 3
126 Via Normale Quarta Alta IV- ** 37
127 Via Normale Quarta Bassa III+ *** 79
128 Super coscia 7a ** 2
129 Lelo's 6a+ ** 7
130 Yu 6b ** 13
131 Indios 6a ** 19
132 Variante Indios 5a * 10
133 Coscia 6a * 4
134 Bassa Twelve 4c ** 8
135 Bassa Thirteen 4c *** 13
136 Bassa Fourteen 6a ** 5
137 Bassa Fifteen 5c ** 4
  Torre Quarta and Di Mezzo North Faces
139 Quarta Bassa One 6a+ **  
140 Apri e gusta 5c ** 2
141 Tinsemal 6a *  
142 Volo a vela 6b ** 1
143 Quattro spit di troppo 6a+ * 1
144 Quarta Alta Six 5c *  
145 Di Mezzo Seven 4b ** 3
146 Soglia acida 6c *** 2
147 All'inferno e ritorno 7a *** 5
  Torre Inglese/Torre Quinta
149 Torre Quinta One 6a * 4
150 Torre Quinta Two 5c * 9
151 Via Normale III+ * 85

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer James Rushforth