Climbs 33
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 278m a.s.l
Faces SE

Reuben concentrating © Sankey

Crag features

An awesome crag overlooking the Amber Valley. Home to one of the best E2's on Grit, a product of the late, great Tom Proctor. John 'The Boss' Allen has also visited this brilliant rock leaving one of the most photogenic lines in the valley, 'Jelly Ache' a well protected E3 arête.

Lately, the bouldering here has really taken off and there is at least a few hours worth here. Should you run out of challenges there are plenty more at Turning Stone Edge - just 2mins north, enjoy!!!

Approach notes

Park off the road directly opposite a distinctive round copse of trees. Follow the track to the copse, then around it to a wood. Follow the edge of the field to the right and continue into the woods until you reach the path that runs parallel to the edge.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cock End
2 Terry Got Fingered f6A 3
3 Cock Jockey f5 3
4 Cock End f6C * 1
5 Cock End Eliminate V6  
6 Split Tip f6A 8
  Cocking Tor
8 Circumcision E1 5b * 5
9 Paul's Small Wall E5 6b * 2
10 Both Sides Now E4 6a ** 3
11 Jelly Tot Left f6A+ * 14
12 Jelly Tot f6A+ ** 22
13 Jellyache E3 5c ** 12
14 Jelly Start f5 * 16
15 Cyclops' Eye E2 5c * 44
16 Short Corner
-
HVD 4a 9
17 Stridesque f6B 3
  The Prow
19 Crack 'n' Slope f5 * 12
20 Sun Worship f5+ * 9
21 Pagen Cross f6B *** 34
22 Wicker Man f7A * 22
  Monomantel
24 Rockbilly Rehab f6B+ * 11
25 Monomantel f7A * 10
26 Gravy Boatsmen f6B * 12
27 Gravy Boatsman Direct V5 1
28 The Radjy Man f6C+ 3
  Salad Fingers
30 Rusty Spoons V6 3
31 Salad Fingers f7B * 3
32 Hubert Cumberdale f6A+ * 2
33 Jeremy Fisher f6B+ 3
34 Margery Stewart Baxter V3+ 4
35 Barbara Logan-Price V3 3
36 Soot and Poo V4 1
37 Sunshine Dust f6A+ 2
38 Mr Branches f3+ 1

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