Climbs 27
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 40m a.s.l
Faces S

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Cornish winter climbing © jfletcher

Crag features

The description for Academia is exactly the same as?that of By Stealth. It starts in the same place and finishes in the same place. The old saying "If it walks like a duck..." seems to apply. There have been similar issues at Pellitras Point where routes have been claimed at much higher grades than the original first ascensionists gave them. Also the description of the first (non solo) ascent is exactly the same as By Stealth even down to stepping right on the tiny footledge to place a runner in Looking Glass War. I would hope the crag moderator will check this.


I do not feel qualified to comment on this! (I only took on the crag as it had no moderator when I wanted to log a few climbs.)


Approach notes

Shortest route is from Lamorna: walk W from the car park for about 1.25miles past the steps to Tater-Du lighthouse. Pass a distinctive house with pretty garden on R. Continue along the coast path for 0.5mi, rising over slabby rocks. Turn L off the coast path (overlooking St Loy Bay) and through a low stone wall. Take an intricate path down to an overgrown depression above a 50ft wall. Blocks are ideal for abseils.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 West Ridge VD * 1
2 The Lightning Process E1 5a * 2
3 Leuc Down HVS 5a 1
4 Leuc Left D 4
5 My Name is Luka D 3
6 Leucky Deucky VD 2
7 Leuc Right HS 6
8 Leucerator S 4a 2
9 Leuk Before You Leap VD 3
10 Luke No Hands D 3
Climb name Grade
11 Lucretia
VS 5a * 7
12 Lucylastic
HVS 5b 5
13 Lucy
VD 5
14 Lucozade
HS 4b 5
15 Academia E8 7a *** 3
16 By Stealth
E4 6b 7
17 Looking-Glass War
E1 5b * 22
18 Luke Lively
VS 5a * 22
19 Luke Back in Anger
HS 4c 11
20 Luke Skywalker
S 4a 15
Climb name Grade
21 Fluke
E1 5c 10
22 Lord Lucan
E2 6a * 15
23 Leucal Hero
S 4a 16
25 Pushguard f7C *** 2
  The Point
27 Superglue HS 4b 1
28 Loctite VS 4c * 2
29 Bostik VS 4b * 1

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