UKC

Climbs 9
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 2082m a.s.l
Faces E

Crag features

A super clean porphyry crag, 250m high with easy access and great routes. Mostly deserted, it is an out of fashion destination, but the routes I have done are fantastic there with good bolting. There seems to be potential for more routes.

Approach notes

Preferred approach, avoiding tiresome talus field at base of crag: Arriving at Passo Rolle from San Martino, park at the first hotel reached on the left just as you enter the village. An obvious trail leads south past the hotel to quickly reach a small bolted crag. Continue past this, in a descending traverse, following a rough trail, which leads to the start of the routes (Approx 20 minutes. Allows quick return to car after topping out)

Alternative approach, with tough walking to ascend talus slope, and long walk back to car, but gives advantage of being able to scope out routes on the walk in, as starts are hard to identify:

 From Passo Rolle, descend towards San Martino in Castrozza for 1.5km until you see the obvious Malga Fosse, a tumble down farm on the left side of the road. Park here, cross the road and cross the meadow to a talus field. Climb up through this to the crag access path which runs below the cliff. Descent is either by abseil or by following the path from the top towards Passo Rolle.

I've written a blog description of Flower Power here with some general description of the climbing at Tognazza here: http://www.casa-alfredino.co.uk/alpine-climbing/flower-power-is-back-nearly-7-pitches-of-dream-6b/
beardy mike - 15/Aug/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Andrea Mancin 6c *** 2
2 Gran Diedro 7b+ ***  
3 Border Line 8a+ ***  
Climb name Grade
4 Danilo Busin VI+ **  
5 Flower Power 6b *** 1
6 Babj Jan 6c *** 1
Climb name Grade
7 Via del Vento VI ** 1
8 Via Resinata I proj  
9 La Storia di Sofia e l'Aquila 6c+ **  

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