Climbs 47
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NW

Crag features

The cliffs around the Lighthouse on the Great Orme are as big and intimidating as anywhere and they are often tricky to get to but the rewards are high. For the new router, Un-named Crag is the place to head for. A petrol drill and a very long ab-rope will give you a free choice of 20 or 30 top quality sport routes. For the sport climber check out Seal Point, Crescent Buttress and the Turdon Gorge. All have good well-bolted routes at amenable grades. The explorer will probably want to take a look at Craig Pen Gogarth but be prepared for a smelly time. The cragger should go to Observatory Buttress, Craig Arwahan, the St. Tudno’s Buttresses and Central Buttress, in that order. It is probably a good idea to leave Point Five Buttress well alone.

Approach notes

There are two main parking areas for the Lighthouse cliffs, both situated near the ‘cafe’ by the Lighthouse Hotel. Once on the Marine Drive you can’t really miss the hotel drive entrance as you continue on the main lower road from Pen Trwyn. The parking by the cafe is often closed, as is the cafe, however the road is very wide here and there is plenty of space for a car or two. For busier times there is another car park further along the Drive on the left. the crags are all situated on the slopes below and around this car park.

Access Advice

Choughs nest on Crescent Buttress and that section of the cliff only is subject to a seasonal restrction.

The cliffs also contain significant populations of the nationally scarce plant, the  Wild cabbage and climbers are asked to be careful that climbing activities do not imact on this protected plant species. Many of the older traditonal routes follow natural crack and corner lines that have become heavily vegetated and are best avoided as they now provide a good refuge for these plants.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following on site meetings and negotiations only  Crescent Buttress is subject to the seasonal restriction. The routes affected include Initition to Earthsong.  Observatory Butress and Central Butress are not subject to any seasonal restrictions..

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Face
2 Bad Sugar
-
6c+ * 7
3 Emus in the Zone
-
6c+ * 7
4 Alien Forces 6c+ 5
5 Old Skool
-
6b+ * 14
6 Klass Act
-
6b * 23
7 Dead Bass 6c 6
8 A Present from Dave 6a+ 15
9 Stiff End 6a+ 7
  Sticky Mix Wall
11 Sundowner 6a * 102
12 Woo Woo 6a+ 81
13 Blue Moon 6b * 98
14 Neon Noon 6b ** 115
15 Sticky Mix 6b+ * 58
16 Rocky Road
-
7a ** 83
17 Rough Rider 6b+ ** 103
18 Old Guys Rule
-
7b * 22
19 Black Dahlia
-
6b+ ** 62
20 Black Iris 6b 21
21 Black Orchid 6a+ 26
22 True Mix 6b 10
23 Back on Track 7a * 10
24 Flash - Pumped! 7a * 9
25 The Hand is faster than the eye 7a+ 2
26 Afternoon delight
-
6a 10
27 Oceanside North E2 5c * 2
28 When the Lyon Sleeps 7c * 2
  Crescent Buttress
30 Ititiation HVS 5a * 1
31 Flight of the Elf 6b 4
32 The Poet Prolapse 6b 4
33 The Chunky Chin Man 6b+ 4
34 Blade Runner 6c 3
35 Fetch My Pipe and Slippers 6c 3
36 Nobody's Fault but Mine 6b * 3
37 The Sittaford Mystery 6a+ 1
  OBSERVATORY Buttress central
39 Opus Pistorum
-
7b ** 6
40 A Nude Place to Creep 6b+ * 25
41 Watcher in the Woods 6c ** 30
42 When the Lion Feeds 6c+ ** 41
43 Life's a Joke
-
6c+ 4
44 Wind and Worrying 6b ** 46
45 Insanitarium
-
6c+ * 5
46 Phasic
-
6b+ 3
47 Goliath E1 5b 1
48 A Tale To Tell
-
6b 3
49 Fish no Chips
-
7a+ 2
50 Loaded Gun
-
6b 2
51 Hom Day Wall 6b  

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