The cliffs around the Lighthouse on the Great Orme are as big and intimidating as anywhere and they are often tricky to get to but the rewards are high. For the new router, Un-named Crag is the place to head for. A petrol drill and a very long ab-rope will give you a free choice of 20 or 30 top quality sport routes. For the sport climber check out Seal Point, Crescent Buttress and the Turdon Gorge. All have good well-bolted routes at amenable grades. The explorer will probably want to take a look at Craig Pen Gogarth but be prepared for a smelly time. The cragger should go to Observatory Buttress, Craig Arwahan, the St. Tudno’s Buttresses and Central Buttress, in that order. It is probably a good idea to leave Point Five Buttress well alone.
There are two main parking areas for the Lighthouse cliffs, both situated near the ‘cafe’ by the Lighthouse Hotel. Once on the Marine Drive you can’t really miss the hotel drive entrance as you continue on the main lower road from Pen Trwyn. The parking by the cafe is often closed, as is the cafe, however the road is very wide here and there is plenty of space for a car or two. For busier times there is another car park further along the Drive on the left. the crags are all situated on the slopes below and around this car park.
Choughs nest on Crescent Buttress and that section of the cliff only is subject to a seasonal restrction.
The cliffs also contain significant populations of the nationally scarce plant, the Wild cabbage and climbers are asked to be careful that climbing activities do not imact on this protected plant species. Many of the older traditonal routes follow natural crack and corner lines that have become heavily vegetated and are best avoided as they now provide a good refuge for these plants.
Dates: 1 March to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following on site meetings and negotiations only Crescent Buttress is subject to the seasonal restriction. The routes affected include Initition to Earthsong. Observatory Butress and Central Butress are not subject to any seasonal restrictions.. Please note for 2018, that the restriction period has been extended to July 15th.
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