Climbs 47
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NW

Crag features

The cliffs around the Lighthouse on the Great Orme are as big and intimidating as anywhere and they are often tricky to get to but the rewards are high. For the new router, Un-named Crag is the place to head for. A petrol drill and a very long ab-rope will give you a free choice of 20 or 30 top quality sport routes. For the sport climber check out Seal Point, Crescent Buttress and the Turdon Gorge. All have good well-bolted routes at amenable grades. The explorer will probably want to take a look at Craig Pen Gogarth but be prepared for a smelly time. The cragger should go to Observatory Buttress, Craig Arwahan, the St. Tudno’s Buttresses and Central Buttress, in that order. It is probably a good idea to leave Point Five Buttress well alone.

Approach notes

There are two main parking areas for the Lighthouse cliffs, both situated near the ‘cafe’ by the Lighthouse Hotel. Once on the Marine Drive you can’t really miss the hotel drive entrance as you continue on the main lower road from Pen Trwyn. The parking by the cafe is often closed, as is the cafe, however the road is very wide here and there is plenty of space for a car or two. For busier times there is another car park further along the Drive on the left. the crags are all situated on the slopes below and around this car park.

Restricted Access

Choughs nest on Crescent Buttress and that section of the cliff only is subject to a seasonal restrction.

The cliffs also contain significant populations of the nationally scarce plant, the  Wild cabbage and climbers are asked to be careful that climbing activities do not imact on this protected plant species. Many of the older traditonal routes follow natural crack and corner lines that have become heavily vegetated and are best avoided as they now provide a good refuge for these plants.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following on site meetings and negotiations only  Crescent Buttress is subject to the seasonal restriction. The routes affected include Initition to Earthsong.  Observatory Butress and Central Butress are not subject to any seasonal restrictions..

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 West Face 
2Bad Sugar
-
6c+ *7
3Emus in the Zone
-
6c+ *6
4Alien Forces6c+ 5
5Old Skool
-
6b+ *14
6Klass Act
-
6b *22
7Dead Bass6c 6
8A Present from Dave6a+ 15
9Stiff End6a+ 7
 Sticky Mix Wall 
11Sundowner6a *87
12Woo Woo6a+ 71
13Blue Moon6b *88
14Neon Noon6b **101
15Sticky Mix6b+ *51
16Rocky Road
-
7a **71
17Rough Rider6b+ **92
18Old Guys Rule
-
7b *18
19Black Dahlia
-
6b+ **56
20Black Iris6b 20
21Black Orchid6a+ 22
22True Mix6b 7
23Back on Track7a *10
24Flash - Pumped!7a *9
25The Hand is faster than the eye7a+ 2
26Afternoon delight
-
6a 10
27Oceanside NorthE2 5c *2
28When the Lyon Sleeps *7c *1
 Crescent Buttress 
30ItitiationHVS 5a *1
31Flight of the Elf6b 4
32The Poet Prolapse6b 4
33The Chunky Chin Man6b+ 4
34Blade Runner6c 3
35Fetch My Pipe and Slippers6c 2
36Nobody's Fault but Mine6b *3
37The Sittaford Mystery *6a+ 1
 OBSERVATORY Buttress central 
39Opus Pistorum
-
7b **6
40A Nude Place to Creep6b+ *23
41Watcher in the Woods6c **25
42When the Lion Feeds6c+ **35
43Life's a Joke
-
6c+ 4
44Wind and Worrying6b **43
45Insanitarium
-
6c+ *5
46Phasic
-
6b+ 3
47GoliathE1 5b 1
48A Tale To Tell
-
6b 3
49Fish no Chips
-
7a+ 2
50Loaded Gun
-
6b 2
51Hom Day Wall6b  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens