Climbs 60
Rocktype Limestone

Faces NW

Crag features

The cliffs around the Lighthouse on the Great Orme are as big and intimidating as anywhere and they are often tricky to get to but the rewards are high. For the new router, Un-named Crag is the place to head for. A petrol drill and a very long ab-rope will give you a free choice of 20 or 30 top quality sport routes. For the sport climber check out Seal Point, Crescent Buttress and the Turdon Gorge. All have good well-bolted routes at amenable grades. The explorer will probably want to take a look at Craig Pen Gogarth but be prepared for a smelly time. The cragger should go to Observatory Buttress, Craig Arwahan, the St. Tudno’s Buttresses and Central Buttress, in that order. It is probably a good idea to leave Point Five Buttress well alone.

Approach notes

There are two main parking areas for the Lighthouse cliffs, both situated near the ‘cafe’ by the Lighthouse Hotel. Once on the Marine Drive you can’t really miss the hotel drive entrance as you continue on the main lower road from Pen Trwyn. The parking by the cafe is often closed, as is the cafe, however the road is very wide here and there is plenty of space for a car or two. For busier times there is another car park further along the Drive on the left. the crags are all situated on the slopes below and around this car park.

Access Advice

Choughs nest on Crescent Buttress and that section of the cliff only is subject to a seasonal restrction.

The cliffs also contain significant populations of the nationally scarce plant, the  Wild cabbage and climbers are asked to be careful that climbing activities do not imact on this protected plant species. Many of the older traditonal routes follow natural crack and corner lines that have become heavily vegetated and are best avoided as they now provide a good refuge for these plants.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following on site meetings and negotiations only  Crescent Buttress is subject to the seasonal restriction. The routes affected include Initition to Earthsong.  Observatory Butress and Central Butress are not subject to any seasonal restrictions.. Please note for 2018, that the restriction period has been extended to July 15th. 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Teal Wall
2 Silent Voices *
-
E2 5c 12
3 The Torch * E4 6a ** 14
4 Teal *
-
E2 5c 34
5 Opus Pistorum
-
7b ** 11
6 The Tern *
-
6c+ 14
  North West Face
8 The Unforgiven *
-
7a 3
9 Crying in the Shadows *
-
6a+ 1
10 A Nude Place to Creep 6b+ * 37
11 Watcher in the Woods 6c ** 43
12 When the Lion Feeds 6c+ ** 53
13 Life's a Joke
-
6c+ 6
14 Wind and Worrying 6b ** 74
  West Face
16 Insanitarium
-
6c+ * 8
17 Phasic
-
6b+ 4
18 Hom Day Wall 6b  
19 A Tale To Tell
-
6b 3
20 Fish no Chips
-
7a+ 3
21 Bad Sugar
-
6c+ * 12
22 Emus in the Zone
-
6c+ * 11
23 Alien Forces 6c+ 11
Climb name Grade
24 Old Skool
-
6b+ * 21
25 Klass Act
-
6b * 34
26 Dead Boss 6c 8
27 A Present from Dave 6a+ 17
28 Stiff End 6a+ 7
  Central Buttress
30 Afternoon delight
-
6a 16
  Sticky Mix Wall
32 Sundowner 6a * 150
33 Woo Woo 6a+ 124
34 Blue Lagoon * 6b * 5
35 Goliath E1 5b 1
36 Blue Moon 6b * 156
37 Neon Noon 6b ** 184
38 Sticky Mix 6b+ * 99
39 Rocky Road
-
7a ** 132
40 Rough Rider 6b+ ** 172
41 When the Lyon Sleeps 7c * 6
42 Old Guys Rule
-
7b * 29
43 Black Dahlia
-
6b+ ** 103
44 True Mix 6b 17
45 Black Iris 6b 41
46 Black Orchid 6a+ 43
Climb name Grade
  The Enemy Wall
48 Back on Track 7a * 10
49 Flash - Pumped! 7a * 9
50 The Hand is faster than the eye 7a+ 2
51 The Enemy * E3 5c ** 2
52 Mrs. Warren’s Profession * 6b+ * 2
53 Zero 1 * E3 5c * 1
  Crescent Buttress
55 Initiation HVS 5a * 1
56 Blade Runner 6c 3
57 Fetch My Pipe and Slippers 6c 3
58 Nobody's Fault but Mine 6b * 3
59 Flight of the Elf 6b 4
60 The Poet Prolapse 6b 6
61 The Chunky Chin Man 6b+ 4
62 The Sittaford Mystery 6a+ 1
  Need Descriptions / Location info
64 Loaded Gun
-
6b 2
65 Potato Famine *
-
6c 2
66 Pedigree Syzygy *
-
6b 2
67 Chicago *
-
6c 2
  Wrong Crag
69 Oceanside North E2 5c * 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens