UKC

Climbs 371
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 793m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Spanish girl trying Mi pequeño tal Ivan © Eduardo Martinez

Crag features

A huge abundance of climbs, of varying difficulties.  From beginner friendly IVs and Vs to quality routes in the 7s and 8s.  Expect a little polish on some of the popular easy routes near the bottom.  Crag may not match the guide book as it is subject to frequent addition of new routes. Some multi-pitches but with questionable quality above the first pitch.  Watch out for bees and loose rocks. There is continuous development. 

Sun hits the main sectors about 11. However middle sectors can be in shade until midday. All year round crag but really only possible to climb I  early morning until about 12 in summer. This is one of the hottest parts of Spain. Great winter venue as weather usually sunny a few often warm. It has become popular with many climbers visiting from other parts of Spain. It seems to be allowed to stay in van at parking before track. This is a popular thing for the Spanish climbers to do.

Good climbing shop called Alma Gaia near El Corte Ingles in the city. 

Approach notes

Nearest city: Jaén. Walk in time: 5-25 min. Walk in angle: Gentle. Great city.

No Access Issues

Allowed. Some issues with blocking track. Sign at the bottom indicates to be respectful of locals who use this road to get to and from their olives. Suggestion is to park at bottom where is ample space and walk up to sectors. When it's quiet there are ample spaces to pull over near each sector. Leave car at bottom on busy weekends and holidays (festivos). 

Amazing crag, really extensive and never too busy. Very little shade available on many of the sectors after 11ish. El Celador is pretty much the last sector to go into the sun, is more likely to catch a breeze than lower sectors, and there are some trees/boulders to hide from the sun. Shade reappears abruptly on the whole crag later (4:30 in Feb) and gives another couple of hours comfortable climbing.
PeteH - 21/Feb/24
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Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Eduardo Martinez

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