Climbs 36
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces SE

Craignaw and Dungeon Hill from the Long Loch of the Dungeon, Galloway Hills © Stephen Reid - Needle Sports

Crag features

Excellent remote crags in a splendid situation, providing high quality crack and slab climbs. The rock is rough and and sound througout, with very little loose rock. Lack of taffic means moss is common on the climbs but it does not affect the climbing too much.

Approach notes

The Silver Flowe bog below the crags is an SSSI and climbers should skirt this to the north near the forest - this is drier anyway.

The 2005 version of Lowland Outcrops says the previous bird ban has been lifted, so access is all year round.

Guidebooks

What this crag needs is more tussock grass.
baileyswalk - 07/Apr/15
Turn left down the new forest road just before the bothy to its end then follow a feint path through the trees just to the right of the fire break. Cross the stream and head for the large boulder in the middle of the silver flowe then follow a goat track southwest for a bit to skirt round the bottom of the wettest part.
machars - 31/May/12
Mountain biking is recommended to Backhill of Bush bothy, from there you can skirt the trees that go around the north of the bog by a path that is clearly visible from the crag and should have bikeable sections so bikes can be taken closer.
jonnie3430 - 04/Jun/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Dungeon Buttress
2 Galloway Grooves VD * 4
3 Battle Axe
-
HS 4b 4
4 Carrick Corner
-
VS 4c ** 19
5 Bruce's Stone
-
E1 5b *  
6 Scots Wha Hae HVS 5b ** 13
7 Incy Wincy Spider
-
E2 5b *** 4
8 Parcel Of Rogues
-
E3 6a ***  
9 Parcel Of Rogues Direct
-
E3 6a **  
10 Free Land
-
E1 5b *  
11 Bannockburn
-
E1 5b ** 2
12 English Gold
-
E3 5c *  
13 Hammer Of The Scotts
-
E1 5b ** 2
14 Comyn Corner
-
S 4a 1
  Silver Slab
16 The Scrieve
-
VS 4c ** 7
17 The Wee Slanter
-
S 4b ** 4
18 Sprauchler's Groove
-
VS 4b ** 4
19 The Big Smirr
-
S 4a * 5
20 Pembroke Mist
-
S 4b * 2
21 Stairway To Heather
-
VS 4c * 1
  Cooran Buttress
23 Traitors Gait
-
VS 4c ** 29
24 Snakes And Ladders
-
E1 5b * 1
25 Cooran Buttress Direct
-
VS 5a * 3
26 Cooran Buttress
-
HS 4b * 2
27 Hell Freezes Over
-
IV 5 ***  
28 Bickerdike's Buttress
-
VS 4c * 1
29 Castles In The Air
-
HVS 5a * 1
30 Monkey Puzzle
-
VS 4c ** 8
31 The Highway Man
-
HVS 5a ** 5
32 Heir Apparent
-
HVS 5b ** 3
33 Heir Apparent Direct Finish E3 5b *** 4
34 The Colonel's Corner
-
HVS 5b *** 23
35 Cyclopath
-
E1 5b ** 5
36 Cooran Chimney
-
E1 5b *  
  Lion's Head
38 Horns of a Dilemna
-
HVS 5b **  
39 Saddle Tramp E2 5b ** 1
40 Aughty Star
-
E1 **  

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