Climbs 23
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 109m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Trollveggen on Sotra © joeruckus

Crag features

Trollveggen or 'Troll Wall' (not the famous Big Wall in Romsdal) is one of the classic crags for trad climbing in the Bergen area, with first ascents from 1967 and a big period of development in the 1980s. The wall is over 100 m tall and consistently near-vertical. Many of the lines involve crack and groove climbing with overhangs and roofs around the midsections. The gneiss is solid but has many more cracks and splits than at other nearby fields, and loose material sometimes comes down. Established routes are graded between N5- (HS/VS) to 8- (E6), with plenty of room for more development. New routes are still being added to the 'new routes' page of the website for the Bergen Climbing Club, who are intending to release an updated trad-climbing guide book to the Bergen area soon (time of writing August 2016).

Approach notes

From the parking in the small bay on the right-hand-side of the Fv204, midway between Tellnes and Haganes, walk N to the bend in the road, and follow the footpath that leads down to the right. After 30 m, take the left fork (marked with posts with blue paint on top) NW. This path follows the left-handside of a marshy shallow valley. The Trollveggen will be in front of you. After about 600m turn off this path right and work your way over rocky islands in the marsh to the base of the wall itself. Most routes start from a slabby shelf, which can be gained from its left end (W).

Approach time: 20 mins

Descent from all routes can be made by walking on to the top and northwest to a rather steep, overgrown gully which separates Trollveggen from Veatåa, the next crag to the northwest. The gully is marked occasionally by small cairns; one section of the gully has some old fixed rope in place. An abseil descent can be made down 'Jens Lorentsens Minnerute'; there's a lower-off at the top and another half-way down (a pair of 50 m ropes is needed). Alternatively, walk north off the top to reach Liafjell.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Den gule veggen n6+ a2 *  
2 Randis Brudeatelier n6+  
3 Bla-Bla-Bla n6+ **  
4 Jubileumsruta n5+ ** 1
5 Katedralen n6- *  
6 Solid solution n7- *  
Climb name Grade
7 Vidotta n6-  
8 Ramaskrik n6+ **  
9 Hvit Februar n5+ a2  
10 Hvit Februar direkte n4+ a2  
11 Den til venstre for Eureka A2  
12 Sentralruta n6- *** 3
Climb name Grade
13 Eureka n6+ ***  
14 Jens Lorentsens minnerute n6 ***  
15 Flaggruten n6 *  
16 H√łyreruta n5+ *** 2

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