Altitude 2417m a.s.l
Quiet granite crag in a pleasant, realatively sheltered mountain location. The crag benefits from being cool thanks to near-by glacier and altitude, but is a relative sun trap facing west/southwest.
The climbing is a mix of slabs, off-width cracks and some overhung aspects. Decent, well maintained (& relatively new for the most-part) bolts throughout. Chains with carabiners / maillons / pigs' tails at the top of each route. Some of the climbs are a decent length, but a 60m rope gets you back to the floor...just. The rock is good, but there are odd parts of the crag that seem to suffer from seepage.
The ground around the crag is a mix of moraine and grassy rakes. Fixed ropes have been put in place to help access to some of the routes: the ground around a couple of belays is decidedly iffy in climbing shoes if it's damp. There were bolts that you could belay at when needed.
Access is easy: there's a brilliant path (70b) up to the Albert-Heim-Hut from the Furka Pass. The crag is just below the hut from which it takes its name on the NE side of a bowl about 30m from the path.
To access the path (and a shorter walk to the crag) it is best to exit the main road of the pass near the Hotel Tiefenbach (aprox 200m past it going west & well signed) onto an unpaved road climibng the hillside. There is a ticket machine part of the way up the hill where you are expected to pay for access (7 Francs in change status 2018). The road climbs up to a carpark where you can leave your car and take the sign posted path towards the hut. The walk in is pretty easy from here.
It was quite strongly suggested by a local that if one was using the carpark then one should have a coffee in the hut as well (the hut is 150m height gain from the crag and is being rebuilt in 2018, opening in 2019).
This is an easy crag to get to, but definitely a mountain crag: the weather changes quickly and all that goes with these locations etc, etc...
No problems, but remember that if using the private road you need to pay and it's polite to have a coffee at the hut.
|In Sector B (kids area) a 60m rope will not reach the floor on a lower off for the majority of routes, be careful or use the intermediate anchors.|
Zoomer - 16/Aug/18
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