Climbs 96
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Q & H on Mill Pond at high water © Gabe

Crag features

A combination of excellent quality solid rock on some of the routes contrasted with chemically eroded sharp and brittle rock on others. Is getting a little looser on the right towards the overhangs and also on the Mao Wall. Approx 4 hours climbing either side of low tide. An ok traverse when the tide is in. Dries quickly and is a lovely warm suntrap. Can be windy at top. Recommend using old shoes as rock is very sharp and destroys the soles.

Some bad landings beneath tricky starts are reflected in the generally thought of "generous" adjective grades. The harder routes, however, remain seldom climbed and should not be underestimated.

Approach notes

Enter Porthcawl (Postcode CF36) and follow signs for Restbay. Park up at the obvious carpark. Follow the beach East for 500-600m and the crag will appear on your left.

What a great crag, more jugs per square metre than anywhere else in the world, super solid rock with amazing friction, all in a lovely sunny seaside setting.
guy xavier percival - 03/Sep/13
What a great crag. More jugs per square meter than anywhere in the world, super solid, amazing friction, lovely setting.
guy xavier percival - 31/Aug/13
Crag should now be in order as the Gower & S.E. Wales guide book - working on locating and organising the miscellaneous ones
Matt88 - 12/Jun/13
Went climbing here today and notice that a rock fall has occured on the descent into little zawn area (where the routes of electrician and belayers folly are). the massive block used to hold onto while decending is loose and now wobbles very loosely , bringing this block down on you would cause serious injury or even death,please be careful if you do use this decent or ideally abseil in or use a different decent route.
Mattdixclimb - 02/Feb/13
this logbook isnt in any comprehendable order compared to the actual crag...
Matthew Edwards - 28/Feb/12
A good crag to learn to lead! the walls are sharp but full of holds and there are loads of placement points for gear.
c_s_hawkins - 29/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Mao Wall 
2Chairman Mao
-
HS 4a 28
3Roy Sauce
-
E1 5b 6
4Harrowed Ground
-
HVS 5a 11
5No Spring ChickenE3 6a *10
6Porthcawl Beach Party
-
E5 6a *1
7A Quest For The Truth Of The Origin Of The Innards Of A Pancake
-
E4 5c *2
 The Right Wall 
9Witches And Bitches
-
HS 4a 15
10Limpet Slot
-
E1 6a 4
11Barnacles Have No Soles
-
E2 6a 2
12Pre-Placing BarnaclesE6 6b *3
13Lemon Grass
-
E1 5c 8
14Sir PsychosexyHVS 5b *14
15Wide Eyed And Glueless
-
E1 5b 10
16Pie Eyed And Clueless
-
HVS 5b 10
17Wide Legged And Crotchless
-
E1 5a 9
18Lemon Chicken
-
VS 4c 13
19Johnny And His Chinese Eye
-
HS 4b 13
20Soy Sauce
-
HS 4b 10
21Orange Duck
-
HS 4b 16
22Palm Pain
-
VS 4c 31
23Cato And the Hunchback Disguise
-
VS 4c *33
24Sunday Outing
-
VS 4c 27
25Prowl In the Evening Sun's RaysHVS 5a 26
26Bitches And Witches
-
HS 4a *10
 Death Zawn 
28Sunbleached
-
HS 4b 54
29SanctiMoanious
-
HVS 5b 16
30Brittle Bone Syndrome
-
E1 5a 18
31Chee Tor Girdle TraverseE2 5c *14
32Stone Washed
-
E1 5b *34
33Sustentaculum Tali
-
E1 5c *9
34Herpisimplex 10
-
E1 5b 9
35In Sickness And In Health
-
HS 4a 19
 Bikinis Are Yum Zawn 
37The Pathetic SharkS 4a 9
38The Gas Filled Dolphin Carcass
-
VD 179
39Where's Me Spinach?VS 4c 102
40Howard's Way
-
HVS 5a 28
41Bikinis Are Yum
-
E3 6b 4
42Plutonic Plankton
-
E2 5c 7
43Don't Snog The Labrador
-
HS 4c 13
44Can't Run, Can't ClimbVD *5
45Can't Climb, Can't RunVD 2
46Junk
-
VD 23
47Rise Above The WaterHS 4b *78
48Cow Eyed Arete
-
HS 4b 101
49My Friend Shep
-
HVS 5a 60
 Main Face 
51Left Corner
-
VD 234
52Aah-ck-ak-ak-ak
-
VD 148
53Jellyfish Tickler
-
HS 4b 165
54Peaceful Easy Feeling
-
S 290
55Jack's Noisy Squealing
-
S 167
56Valley Girls
-
S 117
57Up And Down
-
D 162
58Olive Oyle
-
S 110
59Popeye
-
S 210
60Sweet Pea Souper
-
VS 4b 180
61Bluto
-
S 172
62Estuary Scum On The Welsh Riviera
-
HVS 5b 111
63Surf's UpHS 38
64Slingshot
-
VD 121
65Sir Hoddy of GowertonshireHD 4a 3
66Spectre Versus RectorVS 4c 4
67Black Buttress
-
S 70
68Mill Pond
-
S 67
 The Overhangs Area 
70Prickly Bulge
-
S 4b 91

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