Climbs 96
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Q & H on Mill Pond at high water © Gabe

Crag features

A combination of excellent quality solid rock on some of the routes contrasted with chemically eroded sharp and brittle rock on others. Is getting a little looser on the right towards the overhangs and also on the Mao Wall. Approx 4 hours climbing either side of low tide. An ok traverse when the tide is in. Dries quickly and is a lovely warm suntrap. Can be windy at top. Recommend using old shoes as rock is very sharp and destroys the soles.

Some bad landings beneath tricky starts are reflected in the generally thought of "generous" adjective grades. The harder routes, however, remain seldom climbed and should not be underestimated.

Approach notes

Enter Porthcawl (Postcode CF36) and follow signs for Restbay. Park up at the obvious carpark. Follow the beach East for 500-600m and the crag will appear on your left.

What a great crag, more jugs per square metre than anywhere else in the world, super solid rock with amazing friction, all in a lovely sunny seaside setting.
guy xavier percival - 03/Sep/13
What a great crag. More jugs per square meter than anywhere in the world, super solid, amazing friction, lovely setting.
guy xavier percival - 31/Aug/13
Crag should now be in order as the Gower & S.E. Wales guide book - working on locating and organising the miscellaneous ones
Matt88 - 12/Jun/13
Went climbing here today and notice that a rock fall has occured on the descent into little zawn area (where the routes of electrician and belayers folly are). the massive block used to hold onto while decending is loose and now wobbles very loosely , bringing this block down on you would cause serious injury or even death,please be careful if you do use this decent or ideally abseil in or use a different decent route.
Mattdixclimb - 02/Feb/13
this logbook isnt in any comprehendable order compared to the actual crag...
Matthew Edwards - 28/Feb/12
A good crag to learn to lead! the walls are sharp but full of holds and there are loads of placement points for gear.
c_s_hawkins - 29/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Mao Wall 
2Chairman Mao
HS 4a 28
3Roy Sauce
E1 5b 6
4Harrowed Ground
HVS 5a 11
5No Spring ChickenE3 6a *10
6Porthcawl Beach Party
E5 6a *1
7A Quest For The Truth Of The Origin Of The Innards Of A Pancake
E4 5c *2
 The Right Wall 
9Witches And Bitches
HS 4a 15
10Limpet Slot
E1 6a 4
11Barnacles Have No Soles
E2 6a 2
12Pre-Placing BarnaclesE6 6b *3
13Lemon Grass
E1 5c 8
14Sir PsychosexyHVS 5b *14
15Wide Eyed And Glueless
E1 5b 10
16Pie Eyed And Clueless
HVS 5b 10
17Wide Legged And Crotchless
E1 5a 9
18Lemon Chicken
VS 4c 13
19Johnny And His Chinese Eye
HS 4b 13
20Soy Sauce
HS 4b 10
21Orange Duck
HS 4b 16
22Palm Pain
VS 4c 31
23Cato And the Hunchback Disguise
VS 4c *33
24Sunday Outing
VS 4c 27
25Prowl In the Evening Sun's RaysHVS 5a 26
26Bitches And Witches
HS 4a *10
 Death Zawn 
HS 4b 54
HVS 5b 16
30Brittle Bone Syndrome
E1 5a 18
31Chee Tor Girdle TraverseE2 5c *14
32Stone Washed
E1 5b *34
33Sustentaculum Tali
E1 5c *9
34Herpisimplex 10
E1 5b 9
35In Sickness And In Health
HS 4a 19
 Bikinis Are Yum Zawn 
37The Pathetic SharkS 4a 9
38The Gas Filled Dolphin Carcass
VD 179
39Where's Me Spinach?VS 4c 102
40Howard's Way
HVS 5a 28
41Bikinis Are Yum
E3 6b 4
42Plutonic Plankton
E2 5c 7
43Don't Snog The Labrador
HS 4c 13
44Can't Run, Can't ClimbVD *5
45Can't Climb, Can't RunVD 2
VD 23
47Rise Above The WaterHS 4b *78
48Cow Eyed Arete
HS 4b 101
49My Friend Shep
HVS 5a 60
 Main Face 
51Left Corner
VD 234
VD 148
53Jellyfish Tickler
HS 4b 165
54Peaceful Easy Feeling
S 290
55Jack's Noisy Squealing
S 167
56Valley Girls
S 117
57Up And Down
D 162
58Olive Oyle
S 110
S 210
60Sweet Pea Souper
VS 4b 180
S 172
62Estuary Scum On The Welsh Riviera
HVS 5b 111
63Surf's UpHS 38
VD 121
65Sir Hoddy of GowertonshireHD 4a 3
66Spectre Versus RectorVS 4c 4
67Black Buttress
S 70
68Mill Pond
S 67
 The Overhangs Area 
70Prickly Bulge
S 4b 91

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