Climbs 96
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Q & H on Mill Pond at high water © Gabe

Crag features

A combination of excellent quality solid rock on some of the routes contrasted with chemically eroded sharp and brittle rock on others. Is getting a little looser on the right towards the overhangs and also on the Mao Wall. Approx 4 hours climbing either side of low tide. An ok traverse when the tide is in. Dries quickly and is a lovely warm suntrap. Can be windy at top. Recommend using old shoes as rock is very sharp and destroys the soles.

Some bad landings beneath tricky starts are reflected in the generally thought of "generous" adjective grades. The harder routes, however, remain seldom climbed and should not be underestimated.

Approach notes

Enter Porthcawl (Postcode CF36) and follow signs for Restbay. Park up at the obvious carpark. Follow the beach East for 500-600m and the crag will appear on your left.

What a great crag, more jugs per square metre than anywhere else in the world, super solid rock with amazing friction, all in a lovely sunny seaside setting.
guy xavier percival - 03/Sep/13
What a great crag. More jugs per square meter than anywhere in the world, super solid, amazing friction, lovely setting.
guy xavier percival - 31/Aug/13
Crag should now be in order as the Gower & S.E. Wales guide book - working on locating and organising the miscellaneous ones
Matt88 - 12/Jun/13
Went climbing here today and notice that a rock fall has occured on the descent into little zawn area (where the routes of electrician and belayers folly are). the massive block used to hold onto while decending is loose and now wobbles very loosely , bringing this block down on you would cause serious injury or even death,please be careful if you do use this decent or ideally abseil in or use a different decent route.
Mattdixclimb - 02/Feb/13
this logbook isnt in any comprehendable order compared to the actual crag...
Matthew Edwards - 28/Feb/12
A good crag to learn to lead! the walls are sharp but full of holds and there are loads of placement points for gear.
c_s_hawkins - 29/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Mao Wall
2 Chairman Mao
-
HS 4a 28
3 Roy Sauce
-
E1 5b 6
4 Harrowed Ground
-
HVS 5a 11
5 No Spring Chicken E3 6a * 10
6 Porthcawl Beach Party
-
E5 6a * 1
7 A Quest For The Truth Of The Origin Of The Innards Of A Pancake
-
E4 5c * 2
  The Right Wall
9 Witches And Bitches
-
HS 4a 15
10 Limpet Slot
-
E1 6a 4
11 Barnacles Have No Soles
-
E2 6a 2
12 Pre-Placing Barnacles E6 6b * 3
13 Lemon Grass
-
E1 5c 8
14 Sir Psychosexy HVS 5b * 14
15 Wide Eyed And Glueless
-
E1 5b 10
16 Pie Eyed And Clueless
-
HVS 5b 10
17 Wide Legged And Crotchless
-
E1 5a 9
18 Lemon Chicken
-
VS 4c 13
19 Johnny And His Chinese Eye
-
HS 4b 13
20 Soy Sauce
-
HS 4b 10
21 Orange Duck
-
HS 4b 17
22 Palm Pain
-
VS 4c 31
23 Cato And the Hunchback Disguise
-
VS 4c * 33
24 Sunday Outing
-
VS 4c 27
25 Prowl In the Evening Sun's Rays HVS 5a 26
26 Bitches And Witches
-
HS 4a * 10
  Death Zawn
28 Sunbleached
-
HS 4b 57
29 SanctiMoanious
-
HVS 5b 16
30 Brittle Bone Syndrome
-
E1 5a 18
31 Chee Tor Girdle Traverse E2 5c * 14
32 Stone Washed
-
E1 5b * 35
33 Sustentaculum Tali
-
E1 5c * 9
34 Herpisimplex 10
-
E1 5b 9
35 In Sickness And In Health
-
HS 4a 19
  Bikinis Are Yum Zawn
37 The Pathetic Shark S 4a 10
38 The Gas Filled Dolphin Carcass
-
VD 185
39 Where's Me Spinach? VS 4c 107
40 Howard's Way
-
HVS 5a 28
41 Bikinis Are Yum
-
E3 6b 4
42 Plutonic Plankton
-
E2 5c 7
43 Don't Snog The Labrador
-
HS 4c 13
44 Can't Run, Can't Climb VD * 5
45 Can't Climb, Can't Run VD 2
46 Junk
-
VD 23
47 Rise Above The Water HS 4b * 80
48 Cow Eyed Arete
-
HS 4b 103
49 My Friend Shep
-
HVS 5a 61
  Main Face
51 Left Corner
-
VD 239
52 Aah-ck-ak-ak-ak
-
VD 149
53 Jellyfish Tickler
-
HS 4b 168
54 Peaceful Easy Feeling
-
S 301
55 Jack's Noisy Squealing
-
S 172
56 Valley Girls
-
S 121
57 Up And Down
-
D 167
58 Olive Oyle
-
S 114
59 Popeye
-
S 216
60 Sweet Pea Souper
-
VS 4b 184
61 Bluto
-
S 179
62 Estuary Scum On The Welsh Riviera
-
HVS 5b 111
63 Surf's Up HS 47
64 Slingshot
-
VD 126
65 Sir Hoddy of Gowertonshire HD 4a 4
66 Spectre Versus Rector VS 4c 4
67 Black Buttress
-
S 75
68 Mill Pond
-
S 65
  The Overhangs Area
70 Prickly Bulge
-
S 4b 95
71 Injector Chimney
-
D 96
72 Injector Corner VD 4b * 17
73 Injector Wall HS 4b 8
74 Strapadictome VS 5a 99
75 Strapadictome Variation VS 5a 15
76 The Overhangs E2 5c * 31
77 Right Rib HS 4b 9
78 Time waits for Nomad VD 4a 4
79 Oily Wall VD 4a 4
80 Smooth Crack VD 8
81 Oligenous Arete S 4a 4
82 Xenophilius Lovegood's Crappy Cup of Tea VS 4b * 4
  Little Zawn
84 The Drowned Rat S 4a 4
85 The Slab VD 26
86 Follow the Spiders VD 5a 6
87 No Belayer VS 4c 6
88 Belayers Folly VS 4c 61
89 Dead In The Water
-
VS 5a 36
90 The Electrician
-
E1 5b 48
91 The Drowning Man
-
D 51
92 It's Only Me D 21
93 Mother Mary's Mantle HS 4a * 12
94 The Quibbler HS 4b * 5
95 My head's full of Wrackspurts HS 4c 10
  ---
97 Sickle Cell Anaemia
-
E1 5b 4
98 The Geo Graduate
-
VB 4b 2
99 Alf Garnett Meets Myles Jordan
-
VS 5b 3
100 Spectre Versus Rector Direct
-
VS 4c 3
  Box Bay Bouldering
102 Problem No.1 f4 1
103 The Pathetic Arete f4 1
104 Problem No. 2 f5 1
105 The Jellyfish Squibler V0+ 5b * 1

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