Climbs 95
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Q & H on Mill Pond at high water © Gabe

Crag features

A combination of excellent quality solid rock on some of the routes contrasted with chemically eroded sharp and brittle rock on others. Is getting a little looser on the right towards the overhangs and also on the Mao Wall. Approx 4 hours climbing either side of low tide. An ok traverse when the tide is in. Dries quickly and is a lovely warm suntrap. Can be windy at top. Recommend using old shoes as rock is very sharp and destroys the soles.

Some bad landings beneath tricky starts are reflected in the generally thought of "generous" adjective grades. The harder routes, however, remain seldom climbed and should not be underestimated.

Approach notes

Enter Porthcawl (Postcode CF36) and follow signs for Restbay. Park up at the obvious carpark. Follow the beach East for 500-600m and the crag will appear on your left.

What a great crag, more jugs per square metre than anywhere else in the world, super solid rock with amazing friction, all in a lovely sunny seaside setting.
guy xavier percival - 03/Sep/13
What a great crag. More jugs per square meter than anywhere in the world, super solid, amazing friction, lovely setting.
guy xavier percival - 31/Aug/13
Crag should now be in order as the Gower & S.E. Wales guide book - working on locating and organising the miscellaneous ones
Matt88 - 12/Jun/13
Went climbing here today and notice that a rock fall has occured on the descent into little zawn area (where the routes of electrician and belayers folly are). the massive block used to hold onto while decending is loose and now wobbles very loosely , bringing this block down on you would cause serious injury or even death,please be careful if you do use this decent or ideally abseil in or use a different decent route.
Mattdixclimb - 02/Feb/13
this logbook isnt in any comprehendable order compared to the actual crag...
Matthew Edwards - 28/Feb/12
A good crag to learn to lead! the walls are sharp but full of holds and there are loads of placement points for gear.
c_s_hawkins - 29/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

 Bikinis Are Yum Zawn 
37The Pathetic SharkS 4a 6
38The Gas Filled Dolphin Carcass
VD 169
39Where's Me Spinach?VS 4c 95
40Howard's Way
HVS 5a 27
41Bikinis Are Yum
E3 6b 3
42Plutonic Plankton
E2 5c 6
43Don't Snog The Labrador
HS 4c 12
44Can't Run, Can't ClimbVD *4
45Can't Climb, Can't RunVD 1
VD 22
47Rise Above The WaterHS 4b *77
48Cow Eyed Arete
HS 4b 94
49My Friend Shep
HVS 5a 59
 Main Face 
51Left Corner
VD 223
VD 147
53Jellyfish Tickler
HS 4b 162
54Peaceful Easy Feeling
S 283
55Jack's Noisy Squealing
S 167
56Valley Girls
S 113
57Up And Down
D 158
58Olive Oyle
S 106
S 204
60Sweet Pea Souper
VS 4b 176
S 166
62Estuary Scum On The Welsh Riviera
HVS 5b 108
63Surf's UpHS 32
VD 114
65Mill Pond
S 63
66Black Buttress
S 67
 The Overhangs Area 
68Prickly Bulge
S 4b 84
69Injector Chimney
D 93
70Injector CornerVD 4b *11

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