Climbs 100
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

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Q & H on Mill Pond at high water © Gabe

Crag features

A combination of excellent quality solid rock on some of the routes contrasted with chemically eroded sharp and brittle rock on others. Is getting a little looser on the right towards the overhangs and also on the Mao Wall. Approx 4 hours climbing either side of low tide. An ok traverse when the tide is in. Dries quickly and is a lovely warm suntrap. Can be windy at top. Recommend using old shoes as rock is very sharp and destroys the soles.

Some bad landings beneath tricky starts are reflected in the generally thought of "generous" adjective grades. The harder routes, however, remain seldom climbed and should not be underestimated.

Approach notes

Enter Porthcawl (Postcode CF36) and follow signs for Restbay. Park up at the obvious carpark. Follow the beach East for 500-600m and the crag will appear on your left.

What a great crag, more jugs per square metre than anywhere else in the world, super solid rock with amazing friction, all in a lovely sunny seaside setting.
guy xavier percival - 03/Sep/13
What a great crag. More jugs per square meter than anywhere in the world, super solid, amazing friction, lovely setting.
guy xavier percival - 31/Aug/13
Crag should now be in order as the Gower & S.E. Wales guide book - working on locating and organising the miscellaneous ones
Matt88 - 12/Jun/13
Went climbing here today and notice that a rock fall has occured on the descent into little zawn area (where the routes of electrician and belayers folly are). the massive block used to hold onto while decending is loose and now wobbles very loosely , bringing this block down on you would cause serious injury or even death,please be careful if you do use this decent or ideally abseil in or use a different decent route.
Mattdixclimb - 02/Feb/13
this logbook isnt in any comprehendable order compared to the actual crag...
Matthew Edwards - 28/Feb/12
A good crag to learn to lead! the walls are sharp but full of holds and there are loads of placement points for gear.
c_s_hawkins - 29/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Mao Wall
2 Chairman Mao
-
HS 4a 28
3 Roy Sauce
-
E1 5b 5
4 Harrowed Ground
-
HVS 5a 10
5 No Spring Chicken E3 6a * 9
6 Porthcawl Beach Party
-
E5 6a * 1
7 A Quest For The Truth Of The Origin Of The Innards Of A Pancake
-
E4 5c * 2
  The Right Wall
9 Witches And Bitches
-
HS 4a 15
10 Limpet Slot
-
E1 6a 4
11 Barnacles Have No Soles
-
E2 6a 2
12 Pre-Placing Barnacles E6 6b * 2
13 Lemon Grass
-
E1 5c 8
14 Sir Psychosexy HVS 5b * 13
15 Wide Eyed And Glueless
-
E1 5b 9
16 Pie Eyed And Clueless
-
HVS 5b 9
17 Wide Legged And Crotchless
-
E1 5a 8
18 Lemon Chicken
-
VS 4c 13
19 Johnny And His Chinese Eye
-
HS 4b 12
20 Soy Sauce
-
HS 4b 9
21 Orange Duck
-
HS 4b 19
22 Palm Pain
-
VS 4c 30
23 Cato And the Hunchback Disguise
-
VS 4c * 33
24 Sunday Outing
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VS 4c 27
25 Prowl In the Evening Sun's Rays HVS 5a 25
26 Bitches And Witches
-
HS 4a * 10
  Death Zawn
28 Sunbleached
-
HS 4b 64
29 SanctiMoanious
-
HVS 5b 15
30 Brittle Bone Syndrome
-
E1 5a 19
31 Chee Tor Girdle Traverse E2 5c * 15
32 Stone Washed
-
E1 5b * 34
33 Sustentaculum Tali
-
E1 5c * 8
34 Herpisimplex 10
-
E1 5b 8
35 In Sickness And In Health
-
HS 4a 18
Climb name Grade
  Bikinis Are Yum Zawn
37 The Pathetic Shark S 4a 12
38 The Gas Filled Dolphin Carcass
-
VD 215
39 Where's Me Spinach? VS 4c 131
40 Howard's Way
-
HVS 5a 34
41 Bikinis Are Yum
-
E3 6b 3
42 Plutonic Plankton
-
E2 5c 7
43 Don't Snog The Labrador
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HS 4c 12
44 Can't Run, Can't Climb VD * 4
45 Can't Climb, Can't Run VD 1
46 Junk
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VD 22
47 Rise Above The Water HS 4b * 94
48 Cow Eyed Arete
-
HS 4b 120
49 My Friend Shep
-
HVS 5a 73
  Main Face
51 Left Corner
-
VD 284
52 Aah-ck-ak-ak-ak
-
VD 168
53 Jellyfish Tickler
-
HS 4b 182
54 Peaceful Easy Feeling
-
S 349
55 Jack's Noisy Squealing
-
S 190
56 Valley Girls
-
S 135
57 Up And Down
-
D 200
58 Olive Oyle
-
S 138
59 Popeye
-
S 255
60 Sweet Pea Souper
-
VS 4b 213
61 Bluto
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S 211
62 Estuary Scum On The Welsh Riviera
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HVS 5b 133
63 Surf's Up HS 70
64 Slingshot
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VD 146
65 Sir Hoddy of Gowertonshire HD 4a 9
66 Spectre Versus Rector VS 4c 8
67 Black Buttress
-
S 90
68 Mill Pond
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S 72
69 Too D... Hot D 4
  The Overhangs Area
71 Prickly Bulge
-
S 4b 108
Climb name Grade
72 Injector Chimney
-
D 112
73 Injector Corner VD 4b * 21
74 Injector Wall HS 4b 8
75 Strapadictome VS 5a 110
76 Strapadictome Variation VS 5a 14
77 The Overhangs E2 5c * 32
78 Right Rib HS 4b 11
79 Time waits for Nomad VD 4a 5
80 Oily Wall VD 4a 3
81 Smooth Crack VD 9
82 Oligenous Arete S 4a 4
83 Xenophilius Lovegood's Crappy Cup of Tea VS 4b * 3
  Little Zawn
85 The Drowned Rat S 4a 4
86 The Slab VD 26
87 Follow the Spiders VD 5a 5
88 No Belayer VS 4c 5
89 Belayers Folly VS 4c 73
90 Dead In The Water
-
VS 5a 39
91 The Electrician
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E1 5b 52
92 The Drowning Man
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D 53
93 It's Only Me D 22
94 Mother Mary's Mantle HS 4a * 17
95 The Quibbler HS 4b * 6
96 My head's full of Wrackspurts HS 4c 11
  ---
98 Sickle Cell Anaemia
-
E1 5b 3
99 The Geo Graduate
-
VB 4b 1
100 Alf Garnett Meets Myles Jordan
-
VS 5b 2
101 Spectre Versus Rector Direct
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VS 4c 2
  Box Bay Bouldering
103 Problem No.1 f4 1
104 The Pathetic Arete f4 1
105 Problem No. 2 f5 1
106 The Jellyfish Squibler V0+ 5b * 1

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