Climbs 52
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 221m a.s.l
Faces W

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It Seems So, F6a+ © caradoc

Crag features

The heavily worked but now abandoned Independence Quarry is tucked away on the hillside below the level of the major Trevor crags. The climbable sections of the quarry have been bolted and it now provides a good number of routes in the 6th grade. The quarry is a fairly pleasant spot with a fine outlook and a sunny and relatively sheltered aspect. The rock quality is variable and needs to be handled with care, especially around the horizontal band of shale that runs across all of the lines. 

Approach notes

From the main Trevor Quarry parking spots, continue for 750m to a large lay-by on the left just past a left-hand bend. Opposite the lay-by a track winds down hill to a gate. At the gate go right on a path next to a wall to another much smaller gate. Do not go through the gate. Continue on the path downhill until it reaches the floor of the quarry. DO NOT approach the quarry from the narrow single track lane that runs below the floor of the quarry.

Restricted Access

An agreed climbing restriction due to nesting birds at Independence Quarry runs (for all routes) from the 15th Feb - 15th July (inclusive) but may be lifted early. For up-to-date information check UKC or the BMC RAD. 

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
Had a great day at Independence on Sunday. The routes we did generally deserved more stars. Good routes on clean rock. We were the only team there, not sure why its not more popular.
Christheclimber - 22/Aug/17
Thought the climbing and routes here were very good and deserved more stars. Did six today all on good rock. Nobody else here but Trevor was busy, not sure why it isn't more popular.
Christheclimber - 20/Aug/17
Directions(as for Trevor Quarry): Follow the Eglwyseg Valley road from Llangollen until a turning, signposted 'Panorama' appears on the right. Follow this for a mile, ignoring a sire road dropping off to the right. Continue until a large layby is reached on the left. Facing out into the valley, Independence Quarry is reached on foot by crossing the road, bearing left and following a descent path down to lower ground for about 10 minutes. The large crag is on the left of the road, with the sport routes at the far end.
Joss - 17/Oct/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wall
2 Lipstick 6c 3
3 Lazarus 6b * 14
4 Autonomy 6b * 14
5 Home Rule 6a+ * 31
6 Promises 6b+ 4
7 Better Together 6b * 11
8 Rebus 6a+ 15
9 Top Rankin 6b 11
10 The Last Bastion 6c * 17
11 Eye to Eye Contact 6b+ 7
12 India 6b 10
13 High Stepper 6a+ * 34
14 The Eyes Have It 6b * 23
15 The Funnel 6b 17
16 The Shute 6a+ 16
17 The Tract 6b+ * 13
18 Conundrum 6c 8
Climb name Grade
19 Con Hum-Drum 6b 8
20 Technocrat 6a 32
21 Technobrat 6a 28
22 Golden Rabbit 6b 4
23 A Hare's Breath 6a+ 5
24 To Me, To You 6b+ 2
  Right Wall
26 Consider an Evil 6a+ 10
27 It Seems So 6a+ 4
28 Is This as Good as it Gets 6c+ * 2
29 No Regard 6b 2
30 Beauregarde 6a+ 9
31 Ump and Over 6a 26
32 Umpalumpa Groove 5a 19
33 Roald Dahling 6c * 4
34 Verruca Salt 6b * 14
35 Augustus Gloop 6a+ * 25
36 Into the Fire 7a * 4
Climb name Grade
37 Indiana Jones 6a+ 9
38 Indi Pops 6c 1
39 The Indi Mix 6c 1
40 Oh Calcutta 6a 35
41 Independence Day 6b+ * 23
42 I Don't Agree 6b+ * 29
43 Independence 6b * 20
44 The Last Crusade 6c+ 2
45 Lost in translation 6a 6
46 Celery Soup 6b 7
47 Mr. Potato Head 6b 5
48 Touching the Radish 6c+ 5
49 Groove Tomato 7a 3
50 Specsavers
-
6a+ 6
51 Mashed 5c 3
52 Groundhog Day 6a+ 6
53 Evil Kneevil 6b+ 3
54 Celeriac Groove 6c 3

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