UKC

Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 375m a.s.l
Faces S

Tom Ireson reaching the anchor on the first ascent of "Viernes de Almeja" (35m - Las Encantadas). © patrickpearce.com

Crag features

The magnificent cliff of Las Encantadas - the Enchanted Crag - lives up to its name. It is set in a commanding position, overlooking the valley that runs down to Málaga, and has a set of routes that deserve the attention of all climbers who enjoy long, sustained and technical wall climbs; the harder routes especially are amongst the best in the area. If the crag has a fault then it is that it catches all the sun that is going and turns into an unbearable oven in warm conditions.

Approach notes

Las Encantadas is reached from El Chorro village by following the road past the Station Bar and carrying straight on up out of the village on the road to Valle de Abdalajis. After 0.5km the road levels out and the crag comes into view on the left just above the road. On the road directly below the crag are pull-offs on the right - park here and walk back down the road a few metres to below the far left end of the crag. From here pick up a path that heads right to the base of the crag. For the upper crag use the same approach and from the right end of the lower crag walk and scramble up rightwards to the upper crag. Do not approach the crag directly above the building below the crag.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left
2 Bolondro 6a+ 17
3 Nombre Propio 6a * 207
4 Playmobil 6a+ * 125
5 Bohem Destrell 6a+ * 249
6 Poum, poum, ram, ram 6a+ * 108
7 Tipo Poloki 6a+ * 64
8 Variente 6b  
9 Para Que Disfrute La Canalla 6b ** 374
10 Crisis De Identidad 6a+ * 304
11 Soldaito marinero 6c * 1
12 Guerrera 6a+ ** 383
13 Guerrera
-
6a+ **  
14 Right of the Rib 6a ** 82
15 La de Seba 6b ** 68
16 Atenea 4c * 223
17 Geisha 6a * 157
18 La encantada 6c+ * 14
19 Programa Genocida 6b+ ** 273
20 Programa Genocida - Alternative Start 6b ** 34
21 Trio de chapas 6c+ ** 7
Climb name Grade
22 Manon Tropo 7a+ ** 33
  Centre
24 Por el interes te quiero Andres 7b ** 7
25 Las mulas comen muchas cuerdas 8a+ *** 2
26 Un Lait Fraiche Pour Le Monsieur 7b ** 66
27 Generacion Limite 7b+ *** 73
28 Gharanata 8b **  
29 Mama Endika 8a+ *** 2
30 Deseo en Vida 8a *** 16
31 Sueno en vida / Last Minute / Kom Ombo 7a ** 98
32 Bueno, bonito y barato 6c+ ** 120
33 Chorro mundu 7a+ ** 79
34 La ley del Cateto 6c+ *** 200
35 Mataillos Lugarenos 6c ** 179
36 Artemisa 5c 69
37 Cancion de sordos 6b  
38 Counter Line to bueno, bonito ?  
  Upper
40 Tienes Almejas Bonitas 6c * 2
41 Viernes de Almeja 6c+ * 3
42 Tipo indio 7b+ ** 4
Climb name Grade
43 No me miras mal 8a 2
44 No puedo controlarme 6c+ * 20
45 Espoloa nombrada 7a+ * 29
46 Un poco vicioso 7a+ * 4
47 Mezcla explosiva 8a ** 2
48 Kit Grimpe 7c ** 15
49 Gros Rouge 7a+ ** 120
50 Gros rouge extention 7b ** 4
51 Redders 7a *** 226
52 Sara 7a+ *** 156
53 Bailando Con Osos 7b ** 14
54 Dura vide de la un frekee 7a *** 101
55 Fiebra de sur 7a ** 102
56 Pata chula 7a *** 24
57 Rib, Wall and Slab 6a * 1
58 Luna paseo 4c 1
59 Slab, Wall and Arete 7a ** 2
60 Orange Wall Left ? ***  
61 Right of Pata chula 7a **  
62 Right of Viernes de Almeja * 7b * 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor