Climbs 138
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 9m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Tufa Beach Bouldering @ Penmon Rocks! © Sl@te Head

Crag features

A newly developed and documented Bouldering (and DWS!) area, in excess of 120 boulder problems at an amenable grade in a relatively compact area. A unique and attractive Tufa featured wall and  some impressive stand alone Highball Boulders with some striking Aretes and lines are perhaps the climbing highlights, the approach walk and location are also a draw and if you're lucky Dolphins, Porpoise and Seals can be seen nearby...

Approach notes

Approximately a 15 minute Approach. Park at Penmon Priory and walk along the Toll road for 100 metres or so to reach a Farm Gate and Stile on your left, cross the field to reach a 2nd field with a High Limestone wall, follow the wall to reach two much bigger fields (the 3rd and 4th Fields), the Bouldering area can be found directly below. The Fence dividing the two large fields is a good place to aim for as this is where the Boulders and DWS venue can be most easily accessed. The fields can be muddy so wellies recommended. Check Tides before you go, there's accesdible rock at most states of tide and various escape routes at High Water.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  BELOW PENMON QUARRY AREA
2 Roof of a baby brother f6A+ 1
3 JCB f6A 1
4 Digger f4+ 1
5 Rock Pool Boulder f6A 1
6 Something Fishy f5+ 1
7 Something Even Fishier f5+ 1
8 Wierd Fish f6A 1
9 Fat Face f6A+ 1
10 Fish 'n' Chips f3 1
11 Fish Paste f4+ 1
12 Rock Lobster f5+ *  
13 Moody 27 f5+ * 1
14 Feet Don't Fail Me Now! f6A+ **  
15 Tusy f6A+ *  
16 Tricky f6A  
17 Curvy Crack f4 1
18 Monkey up a Slab f4+  
19 Cracky Curve f3  
20 Flat Fish Slab f4  
  BOULDER CLUSTER AREA
  Stickman Boulder
23 Leaning Slab Arête f2+  
24 Leaning Slab Direct f4+  
25 Fossil Face Arête f4  
26 Dark Side Arête f5 * 1
27 Grovel Groove f6A * 1
28 Tetris Arete f5+ * 1
29 Stick it Stickman f5+ * 1
30 Stickman f6A * 1
31 Stickman's Sit Start f6B ** 1
32 Pictures of Matchstick Men f6A+ ** 1
33 Stickman's Slabby Arête f3  
34 Stickman's Slab f2+  
  Summiteering Boulder
36 Marlin Spike f6B ** 1
37 Like the Spike f4+ ** 1
38 Diagonaleering f4  
39 Summiteering f5 *  
40 Arête-eering f4+  
41 Slabeering f3+ ** 2
42 Crackeering f3 * 1
43 Crackeering low start.. f5 * 1
44 Slab Surfer f3 1
45 Lippy Kidz f5+ 1
46 Boogie boarding. f5+ 1
47 Ride the horn f4 * 1
48 Octoberlorone f6A+ 1
  Cobbled street boulders
50 Northern soles f6A 1
Climb name Grade
51 Northern lights f4+ 1
52 Coronation street f6A 1
53 Slabs ain't us f2 1
54 Vera duckworth f6A+ 1
  Shot Hole Boulders and Atlas Slab Area
56 Shotgun Arête f5+ 1
57 Pocket the 8 Ball f6C *  
58 9 Shot f5+ * 1
59 Equator Traverse f5+  
60 Pacific Slab f6A  
61 America Slab f6A 1
62 Africa Slab f6A 1
63 Ocean Slab f6A 1
64 Atlas Slab Arête f5  
  3 Buttress area
66 Triple Crown Traverse f5  
67 Regency Slab f3  
68 Coronation Arete f5 1
69 Coronation Tweet f5+ 1
70 Coronation Chicken f5+  
71 Traeacle Slab f3  
72 Crackling Crack f2  
73 Crimp f5+  
74 End Game f4+  
  TUFA BEACH
76 Slapatrocity f6C+ * 1
77 Changes f6A+ 1
78 Life on mars f6C 1
79 Violent snatch f6B+ * 1
80 Cracked Lip f5 1
81 Autumn Spring f4 1
82 Jam if you can f4 1
83 Rusty Spring f5 1
84 Zebedee Spring f4 1
85 Spring Slab Crack f3+ 1
86 Spring in your step traverse f5 1
87 Hands Free Ramp f4  
88 Hands Free Crack f5  
  Tufa wall
90 Tufa Porthole f4+ 2
91 Chimney Traverse f4+ 1
92 Tourette's Traverse f6C+ ** 1
93 Na Na Na Na Na Batman! f6A **  
94 Tufa King Easy f5+ * 2
95 Slightly Less Tufa King Easy - Sit Start f6A * 2
96 Knee-Bar Arête f6A+ *  
97 Echo Chamber f4+ * 2
98 Little Echo f5 2
99 Little echo righthand. f5 1
100 Narcissus stick. f6A 1
Climb name Grade
101 Tufa King Crazy f5+ *  
102 Pinches and cream f5 1
103 Tufantastic f6A+ ** 2
104 Tufantastic for words f7A ** 1
105 Tufa Groove f6A+ ** 2
106 Tufa Groove (Sit Start) f6C ** 1
107 Go with the flow f6A *  
108 Yellow Block Road f5 1
  LONE BOULDER AREA
110 Seaward Flake f5 1
111 Seaward Arête f5 1
112 Right here right now. f5 1
113 Roll Over Arête f6A  
114 Roll Over Arête (Sit Start) f6A+ *  
115 Rock Over Arête f6A  
116 Rock Over Arête (Sit Start) f6A+ *  
117 Shot Hole Flake f3+ 1
118 A Bulge 2 Far f5 1
119 Know your Anemone f4+ 1
120 Escaping Anemone f5+ 1
121 Anemone Lip Traverse f4 1
122 Parasite f5+ 1
  DOLPHIN WALL (DEEP WATER SOLOING)
124 Common 5b  
125 Striped 5b **  
126 Atlantic White Sided 5a *  
127 Risso's 5b **  
128 Orca 5a **  
129 White-Beaked 5a *  
130 Bottlenose 5a *  
131 Porpoise 4c  
  ANGLERS PLATFORM
133 Trad Crack f3  
134 Missing Block Arete f4  
135 Blocky Groove f3  
136 Black Crack f3 1
137 Black Slab f2+ 1
138 Escape Flake f2 1
139 High Tide Traverse f5 1
140 Low Tide Traverse f5+ 1
141 Platform 1 f4+ 1
142 Platform 2 f4+ 1
143 Platform 3 f4+ 1
144 Yellow Lichen Slab f2  
145 Two Tone Slab f2+  
146 Whaling Wall f5  
147 Whaling Wall Arete f5+  
148 Its a Wrap * f7A * 1
149 Pull the other one * f6C *  
150 Mental Bloc * f7A * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Sl@te Head