Climbs 46
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 53m a.s.l
Faces W

The Earl of Perth P1 © Mark Davis

Crag features

Unquarried limestone, richly pocketed and mostly sound. The main face is regarded by many as the best face in the Avon Gorge, with splendid exposure and a very atmospheric situation right under the Clifton suspension bridge. Emphasis is on the HVS to E2 range, 1-4 pitches. A must for the visitor is the classic "Hell Gates (***HVS 5a 5a -)". Routes to 90m.

Approach notes

Despite recent rumours, access to this crag is UNCHANGED to normal. ie, not officially permitted, but tolerated. Rumours of banned access & security guards etc are untrue. (see here: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2507)

Usually, only access problem is crossing the busy road. Leave car somewhere in Clifton and walk down the switch-back path just by the Suspension Bridge lookout point, and then walk along the road (A4) (northwards) for about 400 metres. The base of the buttress is reached by a little scramble up right just after the tunnel. Note that the bridge trustees do NOT allow climbers to escape onto any part of the bridge structure. Abseil off the ring bolt at the top of the route "Suspension Bridge Arete" -- note that a 70m rope is required (or doubles) for this abseil.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Cleaned up Limbic Distrophy on 04/02/2017 - there is now a clear path through the brambles - a great route as is the other HVS (as described in the new guide) - please get on them as there is still more gardening needed!
evhall - 06/Feb/17
worth mentioning that parking in all of clifton is now pay and display
cdpej - 21/Aug/15
Had a minor problem on 01/04/2012 (not an April fool) with a guy on the bridge in a hi-vis jacket telling me I wasn't supposed to be there (and had to get down Immediately!)
Nick Russell - 02/Apr/12
One of the best in the Gorge. A must for the solid E1 leader. The routes are pretty well protected and very steep. From the left edge of the crag there are a few HVS all superb, some classic E1's and a few harder. Beleive me its some of the best
Laubie - 16/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The North Wall 
2Carlos J G
-
HVS 5b 3
3Builders of the New Age
-
E3 5c  
4The Rejected CapstoneE5 6b  
5StrappadosE1 5a **2
6Hideaway
-
E2 5b *3
7Jose' Dansack
-
HVS 4c *4
8Hot Dust
-
E2 5b * 
9The Drain
-
VS 4b 2
10Drypass HS 4b *1
11Green-un
-
S 4a 1
12Purple Haze
-
HVS 4c 1
13Rocket Arete
-
E3 6a  
14Silk Purse
-
E3 5c * 
15Don Quixote
-
E1 5a  
16Red Line
-
E3 5b/c * 
17The Snobbler
-
E3 5c 2
18Roberts' Route
-
E3 5c 2
 The Main Face 
20Chateau Fitzwarren
-
E1 5b 52
21Suspension Bridge AreteHVS 5a **798
22SuspenseHVS 5a ***660
23Baby DuckE1 5b **282
24BeginningsE2 5c *54
25LimboE1 5b ***497
26What's It Called?E3 5c *19
27GT SpecialE4 6a **60
28Nemo Me Impune LacessitE5 6a 12
29The Earl Of PerthE1 5b ***303
30Earl of Perth/Oblivion HybridE2 5c ***42
31OblivionE2 5c *33
32HowhardE1 5b **115
33Hell GatesHVS 5a ***656
34Mary Anne PetersE2 5c 4
35Another Roadside Attraction
-
E2 5c 7
36HieronymousHVS 5a *24
37Navigator
-
E5 6a  
38Dull Day
-
E3 6a  
39WormlandsVS 4b  
40Limbic DystrophyHVS 4c,4c 6
41Rock On Ruby *HVS 5b *1
42Suprising ConclusionS 4a * 
 Fallas Wing 
44The Return of the Fencing MasterHVS 4c * 
45The Industrious ImmigrantHS 4a  
46The Outlook is RosyHVD *5
 The Top Right Walls 
48Rock and No Veg
-
HVS 4c 2
49Lonely Are the Brave
-
E3 6a  
50Isambard
-
VS 4c 2
51Expect Carnage
-
E4 6b  
 Traverses 
53Three Paranoid Couriers on the Dole
-
E3 5c  
54Clan UnionE1 5b **54
55Devil Gate Drive
-
HVS 5a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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