Altitude 53m a.s.l
The Earl of Perth P1 © Mark Davis
Unquarried limestone, richly pocketed and mostly sound. The main face is regarded by many as the best face in the Avon Gorge, with splendid exposure and a very atmospheric situation right under the Clifton suspension bridge. Emphasis is on the HVS to E2 range, 1-4 pitches. A must for the visitor is the classic "Hell Gates (***HVS 5a 5a -)". Routes to 90m.
Despite recent rumours, access to this crag is UNCHANGED to normal. ie, not officially permitted, but tolerated. Rumours of banned access & security guards etc are untrue. (see here: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2507)
Usually, only access problem is crossing the busy road. Leave car somewhere in Clifton and walk down the switch-back path just by the Suspension Bridge lookout point, and then walk along the road (A4) (northwards) for about 400 metres. The base of the buttress is reached by a little scramble up right just after the tunnel. Note that the bridge trustees do NOT allow climbers to escape onto any part of the bridge structure. Abseil off the ring bolt at the top of the route "Suspension Bridge Arete" -- note that a 70m rope is required (or doubles) for this abseil.
|worth mentioning that parking in all of clifton is now pay and display|
cdpej - 21/Aug/15
|Had a minor problem on 01/04/2012 (not an April fool) with a guy on the bridge in a hi-vis jacket telling me I wasn't supposed to be there (and had to get down Immediately!)|
Nick Russell - 02/Apr/12
|One of the best in the Gorge. A must for the solid E1 leader. The routes are pretty well protected and very steep. From the left edge of the crag there are a few HVS all superb, some classic E1's and a few harder. Beleive me its some of the best|
Laubie - 16/Dec/04