Climbs 45
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 53m a.s.l
Faces W

The Earl of Perth P1 © Mark Davis

Crag features

Unquarried limestone, richly pocketed and mostly sound. The main face is regarded by many as the best face in the Avon Gorge, with splendid exposure and a very atmospheric situation right under the Clifton suspension bridge. Emphasis is on the HVS to E2 range, 1-4 pitches. A must for the visitor is the classic "Hell Gates (***HVS 5a 5a -)". Routes to 90m.

Approach notes

Despite recent rumours, access to this crag is UNCHANGED to normal. ie, not officially permitted, but tolerated. Rumours of banned access & security guards etc are untrue. (see here:

Usually, only access problem is crossing the busy road. Leave car somewhere in Clifton and walk down the switch-back path just by the Suspension Bridge lookout point, and then walk along the road (A4) (northwards) for about 400 metres. The base of the buttress is reached by a little scramble up right just after the tunnel. Note that the bridge trustees do NOT allow climbers to escape onto any part of the bridge structure. Abseil off the ring bolt at the top of the route "Suspension Bridge Arete" -- note that a 70m rope is required (or doubles) for this abseil.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
worth mentioning that parking in all of clifton is now pay and display
cdpej - 21/Aug/15
Had a minor problem on 01/04/2012 (not an April fool) with a guy on the bridge in a hi-vis jacket telling me I wasn't supposed to be there (and had to get down Immediately!)
Nick Russell - 02/Apr/12
One of the best in the Gorge. A must for the solid E1 leader. The routes are pretty well protected and very steep. From the left edge of the crag there are a few HVS all superb, some classic E1's and a few harder. Beleive me its some of the best
Laubie - 16/Dec/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Suspension Bridge AreteHVS 5a **768
2SuspenseHVS 5a ***641
3Baby DuckE1 5b **272
4BeginningsE2 5c *53
5LimboE1 5b ***483
6What's It Called?E3 5c *17
7GT SpecialE4 6a **60
8Nemo Me Impune LacessitE5 6a 12
9The Earl Of PerthE1 5b ***295
10OblivionE2 5c *33
11HowhardE1 5b **113
12Hell GatesHVS 5a ***635
13Mary Anne PetersE2 5c 4
14Another Roadside Attraction
E2 5c 7
15HieronymousHVS 5a *24
16Clan UnionE1 5b **53
17StrappadosHVS 4c 1
18Earl of Perth/Oblivion HybridE2 5c ***42
19Chateau Fitzwarren
E1 5b 52
20Roberts' Route
E1 5c 2
21The Snobbler
E2 5b 2
22Carlos J G
HVS 5b 2
23Builders of the New Age
E3 6a  
24The Rejected CapstoneE5 6b  
HVS 5a 2
26Jose' Dansack
VS 4c 3
27The Drain
S 4a 2
28Drypass VS 4b *1
S 4a  
30Purple Haze
HVS 4c 1
31Don Quixote
HVS 4c  
E5 6a  
33Dull Day
E3 6a  
34WormlandsVS 4b  
35Rock and No Veg
HVS 4c 2
36Lonely Are the Brave
E3 6a  
VS 4c 2
38Expect Carnage
E4 6b  
39Three Paranoid Couriers on the Dole
E3 5c  
40Devil Gate Drive
HVS 5a  
41The Return of the Fencing MasterHVS 4c * 
42The Industrious ImmigrantHS 4a  
43The Outlook is RosyHVD *4
44Limbic DystrophyHVS 4c,4c 1
45Suprising ConclusionS 4a * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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