UKC

Climbs 90
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 780m a.s.l
Faces W

Lurcher's Crag © JamesRoddie

Crag features

What was recorded as just a handful of gullies & buttresses above the Northern Lairig Ghru has recently become a major winter crag with over 80 routes and some summer scrambles. The crag can boast fantastic ice build ups and Central Gully in good nick is a must! There are now many mixed routes giving a good early season alternative to busy Northern Corries. Recent routes have not been given stars but in the right conditions most will be good.

Two topos are available in the crag photos which cover some routes but there are many more, just use route descriptions in conjunction with topos.

 

Approach notes

Accessed via the Chalamein Gap, though lots of routes are best accessed by descending from the top of Lurchers and Lurchers Gully. The walk in time is similar to Coire an Lochain.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Far Northern End to 'North Gully'
2 Left Hand Icefall III 22
3 Right Hand Icefall III 45
4 Nan III * 3
5 The Shepherd III 4 5
6 The Baby Dragon VI 6 1
7 Nirvana Fallacy III  
8 North Gully III * 168
  'North Gully' to 'Central Gully'
10 Ultramontane IV 5 * 1
11 Akita VI 7 * 1
12 Far from the Madding Crowd III 4 1
13 Robodog IV 5  
14 Ermine V 4  
15 K9 IV 4 * 33
16 Window Gully V 5 26
17 Tetraidekaphobia V 6  
18 Impulse VI 7  
19 Overdraft V 5  
20 Credibility Crunch V 7 *  
21 Arctic Monkey III 4 ** 5
22 Arctic Monkey (summer) 2 2
23 Shangri-La IV 4 *  
24 Beyul III 4 *  
25 El Dorado III 5 *  
26 Central Gully III 4 ** 199
  'Central Gully' to 'Diamond Gully'
28 Dotterel Direct VII 7 * 1
29 Electric Brae VI 7 * 1
30 Dotterel V 5  
31 Snowbird VI 7 * 1
32 Strictly Come Swimming V 6 * 1
Climb name Grade
33 Beagle Has Landed V 4  
34 Reindeer ridge III 4 * 2
35 Je Suis Charlie III  
36 Have an Ice Day V 5 ** 1
37 The Force Awakens VI 6 * 1
38 St Bernard's Ridge IV 6  
39 101 Dalmations VII 7  
40 Blood Hound VII 6 ** 1
41 Summit Ridge II  
42 Summit Buttress (summer) 2 * 2
43 Wallydraigle III  
44 Dog Day Afternoon III 4  
45 Terrier III 4  
46 Dachshund IV 4 1
47 Diamond Gully IV 5  
  'Diamond Gully' to 'South Gully'
49 Sooty III  
50 Sweep III  
51 Sweep (summer)
-
3 * 1
52 Soo III 4  
53 Ptarmigan Ridge III * 4
54 Ptarmigan Ridge (summer) 3 ** 3
55 Eskimo Gully II * 13
56 Doorway Ridge IV 5 *  
57 Doorway Ridge, Left Start II  
58 Doorway Ridge Variation III 4  
59 Doorway Ridge (summer)
-
2 * 1
60 Perception Gully II 2
61 Piggie in the Middle III 6  
62 Husky III 4 * 3
63 Fang III 5  
Climb name Grade
  'South Gully' to 'Deerhound Ridge'
65 South Gully I 38
66 Pinnacle Ridge II 13
67 Pinnacle Ridge (summer) 3 1
68 Skittles III 1
69 Ten Pins III 2
70 The Alley I  
71 Punchdrunk III *  
72 Punchdrunk Direct III 4 2
73 Pug Face II  
74 Drystane Ridge III 4 * 1
75 Drystane Ridge (summer)
-
M ** 3
76 Pegleg III 4 1
77 Irish Wolfhound IV 6 4
78 Wolfstone Gully VI 7  
79 Collie's Route IV 5 1
80 Quinn III ** 9
81 Collie's Ridge II 6
82 Collie's Ridge (summer)
-
M 1
83 Black Shuck III 1
84 Hound of the Baskervilles IV 5 *  
85 Bonzo Dog II  
  'Deerhound Ridge' to the Southern Boulder Field
87 Deerhound Ridge III 6
88 American Werewolves III  
89 Desperate Measures IV 4 4
90 Lupus III 5 1
91 Sirius IV 6 * 1
92 Canis Minor IV 5 1
93 Theory of Relativity VII 9 ** 1
94 Canis Major IV 7  
95 Wolfpack VI 7 2
96 Pup II  

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