Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.
At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.
We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.
Altitude 57m a.s.l
Somewhere to relax. © samparsons
Blacknor South has some magnificent wall pitches on delicate flowstone, plus a number of well frequented lower-grade routes.
Some of Blacknor South faces southwest and is a good late-morning sun venues. There is a little seepage by The Oldest Profession on the Medusa Falls Area although it is usually dry in the summer. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.
Blacknor South is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.
From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South.
|Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here:
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
|All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?|
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
|The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.|
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
|Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!|
D Berry - 17/May/06