UKC

Climbs 68
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 36m a.s.l
Faces W

Somewhere to relax. © samparsons

Crag features

Blacknor South has some magnificent wall pitches on delicate flowstone, plus a number of well frequented lower-grade routes.

Some of Blacknor South faces southwest and is a good late-morning sun venues. There is a little seepage by The Oldest Profession on the Medusa Falls Area although it is usually dry in the summer. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.

Approach notes

Blacknor South is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=229492&lgn=30289
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sharbutts Quarry
2 Sunseeker 2c 201
3 Meatjam 6a+ 87
4 Sunset Sessions 6c+ 62
5 Sunny Side Up 5a 137
6 Don't Kill Me 4a 372
7 Vertically Challenged 3a 412
8 Sunny Delight 3c 319
9 Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun 3c 321
10 The Mighty Bush 4c 254
11 Casting at the Sun 5a 110
12 Memories of Blue 5a 89
13 Ohhh Kaya 6c 8
14 Evie's Constance 5c * 11
  Sacred Angel Area
16 Dirty Cow 7a * 38
17 Spontaneous Cattle Combustion 6c+ * 87
18 How Now Brown Cow 6c+ * 111
19 Talk 6a+ ** 927
20 Toe the Line 6b ** 681
21 Reunion 6a+ 37
22 Sacred Angel 7a ** 388
23 String of Pearls HVS 4c 5
24 Pining for Glossop 7a ** 155
Climb name Grade
25 I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning 6c * 110
26 Love in the Mist 6a 389
27 The Devil HVS 5b 9
28 Draper's Henchmen 7a+ 22
29 Oblivion is Forever 6c * 156
30 All Things Being Equal 6b 18
31 Equinox
-
E2 5c 2
32 Silent but Deadly 6c+ * 61
33 Hot Pants Explosion 6b+ * 302
34 Well Done Poppet 5a * 952
35 Do Ixtlan 4c * 1010
36 Eating Bush 5a 164
37 Scoop HVS 4b 73
38 Princess Bolting 3c 168
39 The Extremely Fertile Unicorn 6a 1
40 Imperfect 3c * 949
41 Jutland 4a 289
42 Lifeline 6a+ * 658
43 It's My Life 5a * 1085
44 Beware of the Rungis 5c 53
45 Pedagogy 6a 48
  Medusa Falls Area
47 There's Something To Bite On 6a * 13
48 The Lizard of Oz 6a+ ** 726
Climb name Grade
49 Snakes Alive 6b * 114
50 Slither 7a+ * 13
51 Medusa Falls 7a *** 444
52 To Wish the Impossible 7a *** 410
53 Psychosomatic Addict 7a+ ** 90
54 Crack My Bitch Up 6b * 148
55 Kamikaze Moped 7a * 36
56 The Oldest Profession 7a ** 63
57 Loose Cannon 7a ** 53
58 Turned to Stone 6c+ *** 286
59 Skids of Mark 7b * 22
60 Bum Droplets 6b+ ** 122
61 Cut Throat Jake 6b ** 175
62 Cute Ass 7a * 44
63 No Ifs, No Butts 6c * 26
64 Seaman Stains 6c * 16
65 Hello Sailor 6c * 8
66 Master Bates 6b+ * 45
67 Kite Marks 7a * 8
68 Captain Pugwash 6c+ * 24
69 Roger the Cabin Boy 6b+ * 43
70 The Black Pig 7b * 8
71 Still My Bleeding Heart 6a+ 32

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