Climbs 67
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 57m a.s.l
Faces W

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Somewhere to relax. © samparsons

Crag features

Blacknor South has some magnificent wall pitches on delicate flowstone, plus a number of well frequented lower-grade routes.

Some of Blacknor South faces southwest and is a good late-morning sun venues. There is a little seepage by The Oldest Profession on the Medusa Falls Area although it is usually dry in the summer. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.

Approach notes

Blacknor South is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=229492&lgn=30289
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sharbutts Quarry
2 Sunseeker 2c 218
3 Meatjam 6a+ 100
4 Sunset Sessions 6c+ 66
5 Sunny Side Up 5a 153
6 Don't Kill Me 4a 404
7 Vertically Challenged 3a 448
8 Sunny Delight 3c 348
9 Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun 3c 349
10 The Mighty Bush 4c 279
11 Casting at the Sun 5a 124
12 Memories of Blue 5a 101
13 Ohhh Kaya 6c 10
14 Evie's Constance 5c * 12
  Sacred Angel Area
16 Dirty Cow 7a * 42
17 Spontaneous Cattle Combustion 6c+ * 92
18 How Now Brown Cow 6c+ * 125
19 Talk 6a+ ** 1012
20 Toe the Line 6b ** 747
21 Reunion 6a+ 44
22 Sacred Angel 7a ** 452
23 String of Pearls HVS 4c 5
24 Pining for Glossop 7a ** 162
Climb name Grade
25 I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning 6c * 116
26 Love in the Mist 6a 444
27 The Devil HVS 5b 9
28 Draper's Henchmen 7a+ 22
29 Oblivion is Forever 6c * 162
30 All Things Being Equal 6b 32
31 Equinox E2 5c 7
32 Silent but Deadly 6c+ * 66
33 Hot Pants Explosion 6b+ * 332
34 Well Done Poppet 5a * 1046
35 Do Ixtlan 4c * 1109
36 Eating Bush 5a 190
37 Scoop HVS 4b 79
38 Princess Bolting 3c 196
39 Imperfect 3c * 1017
40 Jutland 4a 331
41 Lifeline 6a+ * 709
42 It's My Life 5a * 1154
43 Beware of the Rungis 5c 69
44 Pedagogy 6a 59
  Medusa Falls Area
46 There's Something To Bite On 6a * 24
47 The Lizard of Oz 6a+ ** 755
48 Snakes Alive 6b * 125
Climb name Grade
49 Slither 7a+ * 13
50 Medusa Falls 7a *** 476
51 To Wish the Impossible 7a *** 445
52 Psychosomatic Addict 7a+ ** 101
53 Crack My Bitch Up 6b * 163
54 Kamikaze Moped 7a * 46
55 The Oldest Profession 7a ** 80
56 Loose Cannon 7a ** 57
57 Turned to Stone 6c+ *** 305
58 Skids of Mark 7b * 23
59 Bum Droplets 6b+ ** 131
60 Cut Throat Jake 6b ** 188
61 Cute Ass 7a * 45
62 No Ifs, No Butts 6c * 27
63 Seaman Stains 6c * 17
64 Hello Sailor 6c * 8
65 Master Bates 6b+ * 52
66 Kite Marks 7a * 10
67 Captain Pugwash 6c+ * 25
68 Roger the Cabin Boy 6b+ * 44
69 The Black Pig 7b * 9
70 Still My Bleeding Heart 6a+ 35

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