Climbs 113
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 36m a.s.l
Faces W

Somewhere to relax. © samparsons

Crag features

Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.

Approach notes

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here:
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Sacred Angel Area 
2BlockheadHS 4b *6
3Dirty Cow7a *22
4Spontaneous Cattle Combustion6c+ *71
5How Now Brown Cow6c+ *101
6Talk6a+ **783
7Toe the Line6b **564
8Reunion6a+ 28
9Sacred Angel7a **326
10String of PearlsHVS 4c 5
11Pining for Glossop7a **150
12I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning6c *82
13Love in the Mist6a 257
14The DevilHVS 5b 9
15Draper's Henchmen7a+ 21
16Oblivion is Forever6c *144
E2 5c 2
18Silent but Deadly6c+ *52
19Hot Pants Explosion6b+ *250
20Scoup5a 30
21Well Done Poppet5a *807
22Do Ixtlan4c *863
23Eating Bush5a 115
24Princess Bolting3+ 115
25Imperfect3+ *828
26Jutland4a 214
27Lifeline6a+ *546
28It's My Life5a *954
29Beware of the Rungis5c 36
30Pedagogy6a 30
31All Things Being Equal *6b 2
 Medusa Falls Area 
33There's Something To Bite On6a *6
34The Lizard of Oz6a+ **670
35Snakes Alive6b *96
36Slither7a+ *10
37Medusa Falls7a ***419
38To Wish the Impossible7a ***377
39Psychosomatic Addict7a+ **78
40Crack My Bitch Up6b *138
41Kamikaze Moped7a *30
42The Oldest Profession7a **58
43Loose Cannon7a **52
44Turned to Stone6c+ ***273
45Skids of Mark7b *22
46Bum Droplets6b+ **98
47Cut Throat Jake6b **140
48Cute Ass7a *38
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers annak and Marti999