Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 67
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 57m a.s.l
Faces W

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Somewhere to relax. © samparsons

Crag features

Blacknor South has some magnificent wall pitches on delicate flowstone, plus a number of well frequented lower-grade routes.

Some of Blacknor South faces southwest and is a good late-morning sun venues. There is a little seepage by The Oldest Profession on the Medusa Falls Area although it is usually dry in the summer. It is fairly exposed to the wind, but can offer shelter if the wind is blowing straight onto, or over, the cliff-line.

Approach notes

Blacknor South is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, walk to the cliff-top path and walk right for 80m. Scramble down into a quarry, walk through a large block wall and then down a narrow gully at the far end of the quarry (rope sometimes in place). This gully emerges below the Medusa Falls Area on Blacknor South.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here:
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sharbutts Quarry
2 Sunseeker 2c 236
3 Meatjam 6a+ 108
4 Sunset Sessions 6c+ 69
5 Sunny Side Up 5a 160
6 Don't Kill Me 4a 429
7 Vertically Challenged 3a 474
8 Sunny Delight 3c 361
9 Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun 3c 369
10 The Mighty Bush 4c 298
11 Casting at the Sun 5a 131
12 Memories of Blue 5a 109
13 Ohhh Kaya 6c 10
14 Evie's Constance 5c * 12
  Sacred Angel Area
16 Dirty Cow 7a * 43
17 Spontaneous Cattle Combustion 6c+ * 94
18 How Now Brown Cow 6c+ * 136
19 Talk 6a+ ** 1088
20 Toe the Line 6b ** 816
21 Reunion 6a+ 44
22 Sacred Angel 7a ** 500
23 String of Pearls HVS 4c 5
24 Pining for Glossop 7a ** 170
Climb name Grade
25 I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning 6c * 141
26 Love in the Mist 6a 489
27 The Devil HVS 5b 9
28 Draper's Henchmen 7a+ 22
29 Oblivion is Forever 6c * 168
30 All Things Being Equal 6b 35
31 Equinox E2 5c 9
32 Silent but Deadly 6c+ * 68
33 Hot Pants Explosion 6b+ * 356
34 Well Done Poppet 5a * 1124
35 Do Ixtlan 4c * 1182
36 Eating Bush 5a 210
37 Scoop HVS 4b 86
38 Princess Bolting 3c 205
39 Imperfect 3c * 1063
40 Jutland 4a 358
41 Lifeline 6a+ * 746
42 It's My Life 5a * 1198
43 Beware of the Rungis 5c 71
44 Pedagogy 6a 62
  Medusa Falls Area
46 There's Something To Bite On 6a * 28
47 The Lizard of Oz 6a+ ** 816
48 Snakes Alive 6b * 137
Climb name Grade
49 Slither 7a+ * 15
50 Medusa Falls 7a *** 506
51 To Wish the Impossible 7a *** 484
52 Psychosomatic Addict 7a+ ** 109
53 Crack My Bitch Up 6b * 177
54 Kamikaze Moped 7a * 54
55 The Oldest Profession 7a ** 86
56 Loose Cannon 7a ** 59
57 Turned to Stone 6c+ *** 336
58 Skids of Mark 7b * 23
59 Bum Droplets 6b+ ** 145
60 Cut Throat Jake 6b ** 209
61 Cute Ass 7a * 47
62 No Ifs, No Butts 6c * 27
63 Seaman Stains 6c * 17
64 Hello Sailor 6c * 8
65 Master Bates 6b+ * 54
66 Kite Marks 7a * 10
67 Captain Pugwash 6c+ * 25
68 Roger the Cabin Boy 6b+ * 44
69 The Black Pig 7b * 10
70 Still My Bleeding Heart 6a+ 40

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