Climbs 113
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 36m a.s.l
Faces W

Somewhere to relax. © samparsons

Crag features

Blacknor South has had many good new additions with some particularly useful lower grade bolted routes. Below the main crag line are two very popular boulders with a great set of easier climbs.

Approach notes

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
Topo for the 4 new routes near Fallen Slab can be found here:
dannyboy83 - 03/Jun/14
All these climbs are also covered in the Blacknor Crag page. Surerly, we don't want them duplicated, either there or here?
David Walker - 01/Apr/12
The bolt factory should be listed between 'Vertical Thrill', and 'Last Suitecase Before the Holocaust', with 'Avoid The Crack' after this.
jamescronin - 23/Aug/11
Do not be tempted by the idea of nice, easy clips in a sunny setting, if the forecast involves rain when you are wanting to get back to the car. The paths will turn to a wonderful clay like consistency that will stick to your feet (and whatever else comes in contact with it) but not the actual ground. (Unless you wish to get some extra use from your crampons and axes, or like VERY exciting ways of getting to and from your chosen route). Having tried this at first hand yesterday, it is very scary indeed!
D Berry - 17/May/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sacred Angel Area
2 Blockhead HS 4b * 7
3 Dirty Cow 7a * 34
4 Spontaneous Cattle Combustion 6c+ * 78
5 How Now Brown Cow 6c+ * 106
6 Talk 6a+ ** 819
7 Toe the Line 6b ** 602
8 Reunion 6a+ 34
9 Sacred Angel 7a ** 347
10 String of Pearls HVS 4c 5
11 Pining for Glossop 7a ** 149
12 I Love the Smell of Resin in the Morning 6c * 87
13 Love in the Mist 6a 290
14 The Devil HVS 5b 9
15 Draper's Henchmen 7a+ 22
16 Oblivion is Forever 6c * 145
17 All Things Being Equal 6b 5
18 Equinox
E2 5c 2
19 Silent but Deadly 6c+ * 51
20 Hot Pants Explosion 6b+ * 261
21 Scoup 5a 43
22 Well Done Poppet 5a * 839
23 Do Ixtlan 4c * 886
24 Eating Bush 5a 128
25 Princess Bolting 3+ 137
26 Imperfect 3+ * 859
27 Jutland 4a 231
28 Lifeline 6a+ * 567
29 It's My Life 5a * 983
30 Beware of the Rungis 5c 41
31 Pedagogy 6a 36
  Medusa Falls Area
33 There's Something To Bite On 6a * 8
34 The Lizard of Oz 6a+ ** 686
35 Snakes Alive 6b * 101
36 Slither 7a+ * 10
37 Medusa Falls 7a *** 445
38 To Wish the Impossible 7a *** 401
39 Psychosomatic Addict 7a+ ** 84
40 Crack My Bitch Up 6b * 141
41 Kamikaze Moped 7a * 30
42 The Oldest Profession 7a ** 59
43 Loose Cannon 7a ** 49
44 Turned to Stone 6c+ *** 287
45 Skids of Mark 7b * 21
46 Bum Droplets 6b+ ** 98
47 Cut Throat Jake 6b ** 148
48 Cute Ass 7a * 34
49 No Ifs, No Butts 6c * 23
50 Seaman Stains 6c * 16
51 Hello Sailor 6c * 8
52 Master Bates 6b+ * 45
53 Kite Marks 7a * 8
54 Captain Pugwash 6c+ * 23
55 Roger the Cabin Boy 6b+ * 38
56 The Black Pig 7b * 8
57 Still My Bleeding Heart 6a+ 31
  Sharbutts Quarry
59 Sunseeker 2+ 180
60 Meatjam 6a+ 70
61 Sunset Sessions 6c+ 59
62 Sunny Side Up 5a 115
63 Don't Kill Me 4a 320
64 Vertically Challenged 3 352
65 Sunny Delight 3+ 278
66 Surf, Sun and Just Having Fun 3+ 285
67 The Mighty Bush 4c 224
68 Casting at the Sun 5a 104
69 Memories of Blue 5a 78
70 Ohhh Kaya 6c 4
71 Evie's Constance 5c * 9

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