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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.
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Altitude 43m a.s.l
Classic Portland © Mr Lopez
Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the best areas for quality mid to hard grade sport routes. Great for getting plenty of mileage since the routes are short and sharp rather than long, sustained and tiring.
Due to a landslip in early 2014, the ground level under routes right Master of the Rolls has dropped 30ft. These routes are currently unclimbable and will need extensive cleaning and extra bolts added. Some other routes at this crag have seen the ground level drop by approx. 6ft. The first bolt may be high and the start of the route may be dirty. New bolts may be added in the future.
Blacknor Central is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.
Use the Blacknor South approach through the cliff top quarry, down a fixed rope, then follow a path south under the cliff with fixed ropes in place to the crag.
See here for approach info.
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