Climbs 61
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Classic Portland © Mr Lopez

Crag features

Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the best areas for quality mid to hard grade sport routes. Great for getting plenty of mileage since the routes are short and sharp rather than long, sustained and tiring.

Due to a landslip in early 2014, the ground level under routes right Master of the Rolls has dropped 30ft. These routes are currently unclimbable and will need extensive cleaning and extra bolts added.
Some other routes at this crag have seen the ground level drop by approx. 6ft. The first bolt may be high and the start of the route may be dirty. New bolts may be added in the future.

Approach notes

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub. Use the Blacknor South approach through the cliff top quarry, down a fixed rope, then follow a path south under the cliff with fixed ropes in place to the crag.

See for approach info.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).



The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Fear's Younger Brother Area 
2Where's My Washboard6b+ *18
3Castle Anthrax7a *9
4An Arse With a View7a *13
5The Singing Bush7a+ **44
6Bushwhacked7a+ **32
7Chaos UK7a+ **30
8AKA UK OK7b 3
9UK Subs7a+ *28
10The Unknown Soldier6b+ **179
11Read the Small Print6b **157
12Fear the Small Print5c *16
13Fear's Younger Brother6a **406
14Ocean of Fear5c **14
15Ocean Drive6b **331
16Kendo Nagasaki7a+ **66
17Ryme Intrinseca7b **62
18The Strobolising Scyphostoma7a+ **51
19Invictus7b **9
20Kill a Gent's Tart6c+ *57
21Rag 'n' Bone Man6b *120
22Steptoe and Son6c *45
 Mechanoids Area 
24Sparkling Bone Chamber7b *32
25Reality Bites6b+ **105
26Slumberland6a+ *27
27Slumberland Direct6b+ *58
28Nobody's Hero6c **108
29Great Barrier Reef7a+ **60
30Crown of Thorns7a+ **24
31Wax on Wheels7a+ **28
32Cerebellum6c+ *41
33Hollow Ground6b+ *43
34So Special7b *25
35Mechanoids7a **71
36Cliché Upon Cliché6c *52
37Senseless Thing7b *11
38In on the Killtaker7b+ **14
39Think Black7b **13
40Paint a Black Picture7c **8
41Look on the Bright Side7a+ *4
42Amber Vibe7c+ *1
43Boom-Boom Boom Box7a+ *5
 Master of the Rolls Area 
45Carlos Fandango Belay6b **123
46Ghetto-Blaster Master6b *88
47Paying It Forward6a+ **233
48Escape from the Dwaafee Room6a **317
49Punter's Way6a+ **248
50Blackthorn Winter6c *79
51Mistress of the Baps6c+ *19
52Master of the Rolls7a+ **61
53The Loneliness of the Long Distance Driller6b **86
54The Sponginess of the Wrong Mixture Filler6b **47
55If You Should Go Skating6c *31
56Pulling Daisies6a+ *50
57Skating on Thin Ice5a *27
58Spare the Fern4c *214
59Spare the Fern Right Hand4c 33
60Desireless4a *136
61Good Lay6b **38
62Shoobedoobabadah6c+ 22
63Blood and Chocolate6c 24
 Who Does Trad at Portland? Location Unknown 
65The Enema Within
E4 6b 1

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