Climbs 61
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces W

Classic Portland © Mr Lopez

Crag features

Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the best areas for quality mid to hard grade sport routes. Great for getting plenty of mileage since the routes are short and sharp rather than long, sustained and tiring.

Due to a landslip in early 2014, the ground level under routes right Master of the Rolls has dropped 30ft. These routes are currently unclimbable and will need extensive cleaning and extra bolts added.
Some other routes at this crag have seen the ground level drop by approx. 6ft. The first bolt may be high and the start of the route may be dirty. New bolts may be added in the future.

Approach notes

All the Blacknor cliffs are approached from the parking area at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate especially not in Croft Road. If the car park is full then please park on the main street in Weston and walk down the path next to the Royal Exchange pub. Use the Blacknor South approach through the cliff top quarry, down a fixed rope, then follow a path south under the cliff with fixed ropes in place to the crag.

See http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=240210 for approach info.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
Dorset Route Database (2000)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Fear's Younger Brother Area
2 Where's My Washboard 6b+ * 18
3 Castle Anthrax 7a * 9
4 An Arse With a View 7a * 13
5 The Singing Bush 7a+ ** 44
6 Bushwhacked 7a+ ** 30
7 Chaos UK 7a+ ** 30
8 AKA UK OK 7b 3
9 UK Subs 7a+ * 28
10 The Unknown Soldier 6b+ ** 182
11 Read the Small Print 6b ** 159
12 Fear the Small Print 5c * 16
13 Fear's Younger Brother 6a ** 417
14 Ocean of Fear 5c ** 14
15 Ocean Drive 6b ** 336
16 Kendo Nagasaki 7a+ ** 61
17 Ryme Intrinseca 7b ** 62
18 The Strobolising Scyphostoma 7a+ ** 51
19 Invictus 7b ** 8
20 Kill a Gent's Tart 6c+ * 56
21 Rag 'n' Bone Man 6b * 119
22 Steptoe and Son 6c * 45
  Mechanoids Area
24 Sparkling Bone Chamber 7b * 30
25 Reality Bites 6b+ ** 102
26 Slumberland 6a+ * 27
27 Slumberland Direct 6b+ * 59
28 Nobody's Hero 6c ** 110
29 Great Barrier Reef 7a+ ** 53
30 Crown of Thorns 7a+ ** 25
31 Wax on Wheels 7a+ ** 30
32 Cerebellum 6c+ * 41
33 Hollow Ground 6b+ * 43
34 So Special 7b * 25
35 Mechanoids 7a ** 71
36 Cliché Upon Cliché 6c * 52
37 Senseless Thing 7b * 11
38 In on the Killtaker 7b+ ** 14
39 Think Black 7b ** 15
40 Paint a Black Picture 7c ** 8
41 Look on the Bright Side 7a+ * 4
42 Amber Vibe 7c+ * 1
43 Boom-Boom Boom Box 7a+ * 5
  Master of the Rolls Area
45 Carlos Fandango Belay 6b ** 129
46 Ghetto-Blaster Master 6b * 93
47 Paying It Forward 6a+ ** 241
48 Escape from the Dwaafee Room 6a ** 327
49 Punter's Way 6a+ ** 255
50 Blackthorn Winter 6c * 82
51 Mistress of the Baps 6c+ * 21
52 Master of the Rolls 7a+ ** 62
53 The Loneliness of the Long Distance Driller 6b ** 93
54 The Sponginess of the Wrong Mixture Filler 6b ** 47
55 If You Should Go Skating 6c * 31
56 Pulling Daisies 6a+ * 50
57 Skating on Thin Ice 5a * 27
58 Spare the Fern 4c * 208
59 Spare the Fern Right Hand 4c 33
60 Desireless 4a * 130
61 Good Lay 6b ** 38
62 Shoobedoobabadah 6c+ 22
63 Blood and Chocolate 6c 24
  Who Does Trad at Portland? Location Unknown
65 The Enema Within
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E4 6b 1

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