Climbs 70
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 43m a.s.l
Faces W

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Classic Portland © Mr Lopez

Crag features

Blacknor Far South area has received a complete overhaul and is now one of the best areas for quality mid to hard grade sport routes. Great for getting plenty of mileage since the routes are short and sharp rather than long, sustained and tiring.

Due to a landslip in early 2014, the ground level under routes right Master of the Rolls has dropped 30ft. These routes are currently unclimbable and will need extensive cleaning and extra bolts added. Some other routes at this crag have seen the ground level drop by approx. 6ft. The first bolt may be high and the start of the route may be dirty. New bolts may be added in the future.

Approach notes

Blacknor Central is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

Use the Blacknor South approach through the cliff top quarry, down a fixed rope, then follow a path south under the cliff with fixed ropes in place to the crag.

See here for approach info.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Dorset

The latest edition of the Dorset Rockfax features the now widely acclaimed full-page colour topos, and includes all the new lines in the areas previously covered, as well as many entirely new sectors. The crags are illustrated using bigger topos and there is a complete new set of action photos. This new Rockfax guide will concentrate on Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, covering all the sport routes in these areas, and also the bulk of the quality trad climbing at Swanage and Lulworth. Coverage of bouldering and deep water soloing, along with all the routes in Devon have migrated from this book.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Approach Buttress
2 Battle Against Time 5c * 23
3 Six Go Mad in Sorrento 6a * 22
4 Wubba Lubba Dub Dub! 6a * 15
5 Year of the Cat 6a+ 1
6 Spanish Eyes 6a+ * 17
7 On the Edge of a Storm 5c * 28
8 In the Eye of a Storm 6c+ * 5
9 Bliss 4b 23
10 Not the Dark Side 3a 19
  Fear's Younger Brother Area
12 Where's My Washboard 6b+ * 19
13 Castle Anthrax 7a * 9
14 An Arse With a View 7a * 14
15 The Singing Bush 7a+ ** 46
16 Bushwhacked 7a+ ** 31
17 Chaos UK 7a+ ** 31
18 AKA UK OK 7b 3
19 UK Subs 7a+ * 28
20 The Unknown Soldier 6b+ ** 204
21 Read the Small Print 6b ** 203
22 Fear the Small Print 5c * 19
23 Fear's Younger Brother 6a ** 489
24 Ocean of Fear 5c ** 21
25 Ocean Drive 6b ** 384
Climb name Grade
26 Kendo Nagasaki 7a+ ** 75
27 Ryme Intrinseca 7b ** 68
28 The Strobolising Scyphostoma 7a+ ** 64
29 Invictus 7b ** 9
30 Kill a Gent's Tart 6c+ * 61
31 Rag 'n' Bone Man 6b * 133
32 Steptoe and Son 6c * 53
  Mechanoids Area
34 Sparkling Bone Chamber 7b * 32
35 Reality Bites 6b+ ** 115
36 Slumberland 6a+ * 28
37 Slumberland Direct 6b+ * 70
38 Nobody's Hero 6c ** 126
39 Great Barrier Reef 7a+ ** 62
40 Crown of Thorns 7a+ ** 29
41 Wax on Wheels 7a+ ** 35
42 Cerebellum 6c+ * 48
43 Hollow Ground 6b+ * 50
44 So Special 7b * 25
45 Mechanoids 7a ** 88
46 Cliché Upon Cliché 6c * 53
47 Senseless Thing 7b * 11
48 In on the Killtaker 7b+ ** 14
49 Think Black 7b ** 19
50 Paint a Black Picture 7c ** 8
Climb name Grade
51 Look on the Bright Side 7a+ * 4
52 Amber Vibe 7c+ * 1
53 Boom-Boom Boom Box 7a+ * 6
  Master of the Rolls Area
55 Carlos Fandango Belay 6b ** 142
56 Ghetto-Blaster Master 6b * 107
57 Paying It Forward 6a+ ** 275
58 Escape from the Dwaafee Room 6a ** 371
59 Punter's Way 6a+ ** 289
60 Blackthorn Winter 6c * 90
61 Mistress of the Baps 6c+ * 23
62 Master of the Rolls 7a+ ** 70
63 The Loneliness of the Long Distance Driller 6b ** 97
64 The Sponginess of the Wrong Mixture Filler 6b ** 50
65 If You Should Go Skating 6c * 31
66 Pulling Daisies 6a+ * 53
67 Skating on Thin Ice 5a * 27
68 Spare the Fern 4c * 213
69 Spare the Fern Right Hand 4c 33
70 Desireless 4a * 133
71 Good Lay 6b ** 38
72 The Enema Within
-
E4 6b 1
73 Shoobedoobabadah 6c+ 22
74 Blood and Chocolate 6c 24

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