Climbs 133
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 259m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Richard Davies clipping the anchors on Murus Gallicus 7A+ © jeffmearns

Crag features

SW facing limestone quarry on the other side of the main road from Stanhope Dean. The routes tend to be longer and generally harder than the dene.

Be aware of occasional rockfall from above!

Approach notes

Please do not park anywhere along the dene road. Park in Stanhope and walk up Church Lane to the right of the church. Turn left at the top. There is a small public footpath to the left of the Methodist Chapel heading North and uphill. Follow this through the gate and continue to the 2 bridges. The quarry is off to the left.

All sectors are on the map.

Access Banned

In September 2019 the landowner informed the BMC that he does not allow access for climbing and unfortunately attempts to negotiate access to the quarry were unsucessful. If you do decide to visit and are asked to leave, please be polite and leave as quickly as is safely possible.

Beautiful day in the sunshine yesterday. Shield Wall is mostly dry, as is Bat Buttress. Other routes are drying out nicely.
RD - 04/Dec/19
A massive thunder storm has affected some routes. A lot are now much cleaner however a few need a clean to remove the debris on the holds.
RD - 29/Aug/19
The topo is now available at https://www.rock-topos.com/
RD - 04/May/19
Topo will shortly be ready. Check out www.rock-topos.com
RD - 28/Apr/19
Topo being prepared - check out www.rock-topos.com
RD - 28/Apr/19
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Dawn Wall
2 Dystopian Stanhopeian 6a * 1
3 Dragonfly Dream 6b 1
4 Supernova 6a+ * 1
5 Dawn of Time 6a+ * 2
6 Cloudbusting 7a ** 1
7 Opening Gambit 6c ** 2
8 Mind Over Matter 6a * 1
9 Storm Trooper 6a+ * 2
  The Secret Garden
11 Critical Mass 6a ** 4
12 Funland 6c+ ** 4
13 The Woods Are Dark 5c * 3
14 Trail of the Snail 6a+ * 6
15 Potty Potters 6a ** 5
16 The Fly Catcher 6a * 5
17 Robinet 5b * 5
  Shield Row Side Wall
19 Sinraptor 4c * 1
20 Troodon 6a+ * 1
21 Dilophosaurus 7b+ ** 1
  Shield Row Wall
23 Spotlight 6b * 4
24 Lost Endurance 6b ** 6
25 Game on the Edge of Black 6b ** 3
26 Fight It Out 7b ** 3
27 Special Feelings 7c *** 4
28 On the Beaches 6c ** 10
29 One for the Gods Project *** 4
30 Dunkirk Spirit 6c *** 2
31 D-Day 7b ** 7
32 Detonate on Impact 7c ** 2
33 Rommel's Asparagus 6a+ ** 4
34 Head Shot 6a+ ** 3
35 Panzer III 6b ** 3
36 Equinox 6a ** 6
37 Mud Demon 6b *** 6
  Bat Buttress
39 Unemployed Graduate 5b * 2
40 Catastrophic Event 5a * 2
41 Life of a Bat 6a * 8
42 Bat Box 5c * 12
43 Bakke 5a ** 16
44 Bat out of Hell 4c ** 20
45 Inglourious Bats 4c ** 14
46 Bats Akimbo 5a * 1
47 Eaten by Bats 5c ** 1
48 Final Warning 5b ** 3
Climb name Grade
49 De-Stress 6a * 2
50 Shotgun Hippy 6a ** 11
51 Four Rabbits at a Funeral 5c ** 7
52 Bat Heat 5c ** 8
  The Main Wall - Alpha Sector
54 Rapture of Hunting 6b+ ** 3
55 Principal Failing 6c ** 2
56 Down the Rabbit Hole 6a ** 3
57 Jabberwocky 4b * 5
58 The Pool of Tears 6c+ * 14
59 Who Stole the Tarts? 6c ** 13
60 Limit of Realisation 7a *** 14
61 C'est la Vie 6c *** 10
62 Taken a Tumble 6a+ * 2
63 Runaway Jury 6c ** 9
64 Counting the Lions 6a * 9
65 Roman Empress 6a ** 16
66 Boudica 6c *** 17
  The Main Wall - Bravo Sector.
68 White Strike 6a ** 31
69 Right of White 5c * 18
70 Who got the Bunny? 5b * 22
71 The Bunny Took the Bullet 6a ** 13
72 Conquering Hero 6a ** 21
73 Heading for White 6b ** 22
74 Go for the Head 7a * 2
75 Parable of the Snake 7a+ * 4
76 Bestiari 7b ** 8
77 Strabo's Plight 6a+ ** 22
78 Muddy Mary 5b ** 14
79 Longovicium 6c+ ** 9
80 Pyrrhic Victory 6b ** 17
81 Maximinus Thrax 6c+ ** 16
82 Caldarium 6c ** 11
83 Gladiatorial 7b ** 7
84 Tuscan Order 7a * 11
85 Suicide Bunny 5c ** 13
86 The Life of a Bunny 6a ** 10
87 Bunny Bloc 6a+ ** 3
88 Bunny Bloc RH 5b ** 4
89 Bunny from Hell 5c ** 3
  The Main Wall - Charlie Sector
91 Slave Labour 6a * 3
92 Get into the Groove 6a+ * 4
93 Style and Rhythm 6b+ ** 12
94 Titus 6a ** 13
95 Valum 7b ** 6
96 Runner in Trouble 6b 4
Climb name Grade
97 Capulus 6b+ 3
98 Tied in Chains 6a+ 2
99 Lorica Hamata 6c ** 10
100 Flushed Down the Pipe 6c 8
101 Ardoch 5c * 2
102 Murus Gallicus 7a+ ** 17
103 Ridley's Vein 6c+ ** 4
104 Marcus Atilius 7a ** 5
105 Trajan 6c ** 4
106 Barbarian Tribe 5c * 2
107 Knapping Bench 5c 10
108 Gunpowder Hut 6a * 1
109 Plebs 6a+ ** 10
110 The Subura 5a ** 11
111 Pandora 7a+ * 3
112 Kalon Kakon 7a *** 23
113 Kaa 7b ** 4
  The Main Wall - Retro Sector
115 Lola and Two Bones 5b * 2
116 Sabre-Tooth Dream 6a+ ** 4
117 Stumble into Town 6b+ ** 3
118 Dolly Blue 5c ** 7
119 Spangles 6a * 2
120 Alcove Crack 6a * 1
121 Black Bart 6b * 1
122 Ned Low 6a * 2
123 Metal Guru 7a *** 7
124 Electric Warrior 7a *** 8
125 Picture This 6b ** 2
126 One Way or Another 6a * 3
127 Atomic 6b ** 5
  Sunset Boulevard
129 Little Mushroom 5a * 6
130 Vera's Kettle 5c ** 7
131 Meep Meep 5b ** 6
132 Sheila 5a * 3
133 Grasshopper 5c ** 7
134 Woof! 5c ** 6
135 Old Coots 6a+ * 3
136 More Tea Vicar? 6a+ ** 3
137 The Buxton Bolt 5b *** 5
138 The Soup Dragon 6b ** 5
139 Bad JuJu 6b ** 4
140 Beech Bum 6b ** 4
141 Mein Oberführer 6c * 2
142 Talking Carp 5b * 1
143 Dubious Arête Project 1

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