Climbs 17
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces S

Crag features

This small bay has a few worthwhile routes although the rock is of variable quality and most routes require low tides. 

A big, rather interesting-looking hole found just 50m south-east of Initiation Slabs. You get a good preview by walking either side of the square bay, and looking in.

A rockfall in 2014 has affected a number of routes here. 


Approach notes

Abseil from a slightly wobbly stake in the obvious boulder, awkward nuts in the boulder, or there is a more substantial boulder 10m off to the Northeast. Easy to swim in and there is DWS potential on the West face. 



The famous Pembroke Rockfax has returned with this glorious full-colour version packed with classic routes and all the wonderful features that you have come to expect from Rockfax. It is now twice the size of the old 1995 book and has some of the biggest and clearest photo-topos that have ever been published in a UK guidebook.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Vol 1 - North Pembroke (2013)
The 4 routes around the big block all short but worthwhile. Not especially tidal from my experience 2-3 hours around looking tide maybe more
freemanTom - 13/Aug/17
It seems all of 'Rosary' (HS,4b) & the top of 'Foot and Mouth' (VS,4c) have suffered from storm damage - Square Bay, St Davids, Pembroke
ERU - 19/May/14
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Seaward Slabs
2 Nigel Likes to Sunbathe D 2
3 Barney Likes to Climb HS 4b 4
4 What am I Doing? S 1
5 Un VS 4c 4
6 Dau HS 4b 2
7 Tri HS 4b 4
Climb name Grade
  West Wall
9 Novitiate VD 9
10 Mayday S 6
11 Nonsense Wall VS 4b 3
12 Nonsense Crack VS 4b 1
13 Weird Wall HS 4a 4
Climb name Grade
  Back Wall
15 Loose ArĂȘte VD 1
16 Penitent's Corner VD  
17 If the Cap fits VS 4c 1
18 Rosary HS 4b * 113
19 Foot and Mouth HVS 4c 53
20 Galtieri Groove VD  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matt Smith