Please refrain from climbing outside

Due to the ongoing spread of Covid-19, please abstain from climbing outside.

At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

We have suspended the UKC Logbooks Top Ascents and Conditions pages and we will no longer accept ascents dated from 23rd March onwards. You can still upload your historic ascents.

UKClimbing Team

Climbs 30
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 900m a.s.l
Faces NE

View Stats

moving underneath the icicle fringe to the cave belay © MrRiley

Crag features

Summer,
This is the large mass of slabby cliff overlooking the north west end of Creag an Dubh loch. Gets all the sun going and dries very quickly, offers bold slabby climbing on superb granite.

Winter,
Higher than nearby Creag an Dubh Loch, Eagle rocks provide some good ice routes early season since they require no snow - just a hard frost.
Worth visiting if you've made the trek up to Creag an Dubh Loch and it looks out of condition.

Approach notes

Possible restrictions during stalking and shooting seasons.

Check at Glen Muick ranger station,

Guidebooks

A Likely Story slab is a brilliant piece of rock. Worth doing the other routes there too, HS (Prohibition) and S (Nameless) well worth doing as quick second routes. Rock quality up on plateau buttress us also fantastic and a bit more adventurous in nature as a way onto the plateau. Nb. Abseil retreat of A Likely Story slab should be on at least 60m ropes. Aim left (when looking up at cliff) immediately on abseil as even 60m will still not reach the base of the cliff.
AliBaxter - 19/Apr/15
Isn't this a duplicate of http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=280
filo - 15/Feb/10
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 A Likely Story HVS *** 58
2 Fraud Squad E2 ** 7
3 Fraud Squad Direct Start E4 5c ** 2
4 Ripping Yarn E1 * 3
5 Lethargy III 2
6 Spectrum III 1
7 THE WATERFALL II 2
Climb name Grade
8 Sliver III 2
9 The Drool V 5 *** 8
10 Nameless S 2
11 Flanker's Route VD 2
12 Diagonal * I 2
13 Green Gully *
-
II 2
14 Numbod * III 5  
Climb name Grade
15 Indolence III  
  Routes Added from Rockfax Book
17 Gibber IV 3  
18 Whisper IV 3  
  Eagles Rock Routes
20 Shiver III  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Russell Birkett