Climbs 67
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 43m a.s.l
Faces SW

Joe Innes redpointing Bitter and Twisted, Avon. © JayLewin

Crag features

Small quarry. Protection poor to non-existing. Rock generally loose and unsound. Only for the bold.

Not a great crag, but there are quite a few solid well protected routes.

The ground is currently about 4 feet higher than it was when most of the routes were put up.

There have been new sport routes added recently (2014). Topo is available http://climbbristol.com/new-quarry-update-martin-crocker/

Approach notes

Park at Sea Walls and walk south along the A4.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Avon Gorge (2017)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Watch out for goats atop the crag - they occasionally knock a stone down
clams - 29/May/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Men Talking Goats 5c 36
2 For the Love of Ivy
-
VS 4c 2
3 Agua Colorado
-
E2 5b 10
4 Bitter and Twisted traverse R to L f7B 12
5 Bulking Agent 7b+ 25
6 Bitter and Twisted 7b 167
7 Dinosaur Beach 6b+ * 225
8 Jurassic Lark 6b+ 78
9 Brundle-fly Fusion
-
E2 5b 4
10 Fry Crispin Fry
-
E3 5b 1
11 Sand Sapphire
-
XS 5b  
12 Combined Tactics
-
E3 5c 2
13 Zildjan E4 6a * 2
14 Paiste 2002 7a * 120
15 Cymbeline 6c 67
16 Cymbal the Pun
-
E3 5c 3
17 The Echo
-
E2 5c 9
18 Full Metal Cymbal 6b+ 111
19 Brutal Dub 6c+ ** 156
20 Ready and Waiting 7a+ * 72
21 The Fury E5 6b 27
22 Product of an Unsound Mind
-
E5 6b 4
23 Exhumation E5 6a * 12
24 A Drop in the Ocean of Decay
-
E4 6a/b 33
25 Manoir de Kerlut E3 6a 21
26 Mensa
-
E5 5c 1
27 Shiva
-
XS 5a  
28 The Happy Trundlers
-
XS 5a 3
29 Bushmen Don't Surf 6b ** 209
30 Chepstow Zombie (Right-hand) Finish 6b+ ** 132
31 System Z
-
XS 5a 11
32 Motivated Thinking E2 5b 2
33 Just This Once E3 5b 1
34 Quit Talking and Start Chalking E3 5c 16
35 No Crag for Old Men 6b ** 189
36 En Trend 6b * 128
37 No Strange Delight E3 5c * 30
38 No CSC 6b 21
39 Stammheim 6b * 196
40 The Gobbler
-
E2 5b 16
41 Van Dieman's Land
-
E3 5b 7
42 Night of the Comic Dead E1 5a 69
43 Pastiche E1 5a 33
44 Fat, Tall and Small HVS 5a 24
45 Heartbeat City E2 5b * 38
46 Shale We Dance? E4 5b 1
47 Love and Affection
-
E2 5b 10
48 Sugar and Spice E2 5b 16
49 Puppydog Tails E2 5b * 9
50 End of the Line? E1 5a 15
51 Spleen Fury and the Rockheads
-
E2 5c 4
52 Private and Confidential E2 5b 11
53 The New Quarrymen XS  
54 God E3 6a 8
55 God (Sport) 6c 39
56 Act of Faith
-
E3 5b 1
57 Blasphemy
-
E1 5a 2
58 Urban Myth
-
E2 5a 4
59 Slugs and Snails
-
E2 5b 4
60 Pumping Station
-
VS 1
61 XK V8
-
VS  
62 Loony Tunes E4 6a  
63 The Cancerous Tropic
-
XS 5a 1
64 Made for Fashion E2 5c 1
65 The New New Quarry Traverse none 5c 83
66 The Fury (Sport) * 7a+ * 1
67 A Drop in the Ocean of Decay (Sport) * 6c+ * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Monk