Crag features

The crag at Stav is probably one of the most obvious walls seen when driving from Trondheim on the E6 to Stjørdal and has almost certainly captured the attention of passing climbers. Set on the mountainside above the Stavsjøfjelltunnelen, this NW facing crag actually features several hard bolted sports routes, with the potential for many more on the main wall (that as of yet has not been properly cleaned or developed). Two distinct walls are present at Stav, Trekantveggen and Main Wall and these are nearly 40 m in length.

Cleaning and routing started in the early to mid 1990's (summer and autumn of 1993), however the crag was essentially abandoned when Hell was discovered and developed. This crag also never made it properly into Trønder Rock in 2010 and only briefly described in the introduction. Most of the routes were put up by Alf Borg after Terje Valentinsen dissmissed the crag as worthwile. Other routes by Torkel Røysli and Pål Næsje were also put up around the same time.

All the routes are bolted and equipped with anchors - although given their age and lack of attention they should be treated with caution.However, they are stainless steel and brief inspection of the lowermost bolts suggests they are still sound. Most of the anchors appear to be chains with carabiners that are also stainless steel with some surface rust. A few abandoned quickdraws are also hanging at various places and the project on main wall has the remains of a rope and several carabiners hanging from it. The rock is described as similar to Hell althogh not conglomeratic. It is mapped by NGU as being a metamorphosed grey-wacke sandstone probably similar to the steepest walls at the Hell crag or New Wave. However, the formations here are described as bigger and there is apparently quite a considerable amount of loose rock. In addition there is potential for new routes on the main wall that are easier than those at Trekantveggen. The 2004 guide also indicates some potential for bouldering beneath the crag.