Dan on Crimtyphon © sarahkaye
Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection and on unreliable rock) up to 110ft. Routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) a well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another good route (E1 5b). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) and Westerlation at S 4a which has limited protection at it's start but is a pleasant route. Crimtyphon is the route of the crag and is very much still worth doing after the rockfalls of 2013/14. Good solid rock and plentify belays if cams are used before topping out.
Following rockfalls in the winters of 2013 and 2014, all routes to the landward side of Crimptyphon, are very serious with poor rock, unreliable protection and loose finishes'.
Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.
Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Walk south along the coast path and then follow a path down to the pebble beach at the southern end of the bay and head back north to the crag. Descent by accessing the ridge of the crag from the Compass Tower is very dangerous following the collapse of the ridge. A low tide walk in from the beach to the north is another option: park as mentioned and walk down the cobbled ramp to the pebble beach and walk around the promontory.
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