Climbs 67
Rocktype Culm

Faces S

Dan on Crimtyphon © sarahkaye

Crag features

Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection and on unreliable rock) up to 110ft. Routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) a well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another good route (E1 5b). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) and Westerlation at S 4a which has limited protection at it's start but is a pleasant route. Crimtyphon is the route of the crag and is very much still worth doing after the rockfalls of 2013/14. Good solid rock and plentify belays if cams are used before topping out.

Following rockfalls in the winters of 2013 and 2014, all routes to the landward side of Crimptyphon, are very serious with poor rock, unreliable protection and loose finishes'.

Approach notes

Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.
Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Walk south along the coast path and then follow a path down to the pebble beach at the southern end of the bay and head back north to the crag. Descent by accessing the ridge of the crag from the Compass Tower is very dangerous following the collapse of the ridge. A low tide walk in from the beach to the north is another option: park as mentioned and walk down the cobbled ramp to the pebble beach and walk around the promontory.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
The whole of the top of the cliff right of the descent ramp (I.e. Snapping Bubblies and rightwards) is in a very dangerous condition. This section should be avoided.
Mark Kemball - 20/Apr/15
Path along the ridge falling down and treacherous. Belaying on crimptython is probably no longer possible. Won't be long until the whole cliff has fallen down!
Joel Perkin - 22/Mar/15
Crymtyphon pegs in good nick Summer 2008. Top route.
Owen W-G - 03/Mar/09
The routes are pleasant for the grade. Those on the seaward section are solid, those on the right section a little snappy. These routes have almost certainly all been climbed before. The area was used by a local activity centre 20 - 25 years ago who probably placed the bolts found at the top of both pieces of rock and the pegs who's rusted remains can be seen along the bottom of the seaward section.
Mark Kemball - 17/Feb/09
To Matt, Why not ask Leigh McGinley the next time you are in Joe Brown's as it is his route.
bob wightman - 29/Mar/04
Has any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 North Fin 
2bossVD 5
3boss bossD 4
4yes bossVD 7
5big bossS 4a 8
6ok bossD 5
7last priceS 4b 6
8friend priceD 4
9BossyVD 6
10A Bit PriceyVD 6
11PricelessVD 5
12Bolt the CulmS 7
13To Bolt or Not to Bolt.
S 8
14A Nest of Bolts.
S 7
15Compass Aretef6C **2
16The GrinS 4a *1
17Boj Wolb
S 4a 3
18Wafty CrankersVS 4c *1
19Crutch upon Crutch
VS 4c 2
20Yorkshire Pud
VS 4c 2
21Wreckin' and Divin'HVS 5a ***1
22Dark AttractionE1 5b * 
23Inch In, Inch Out
E3 5b * 
24Full Tilt
E4 6a * 
E8 6c ** 
26North Ridge
VD 25
27Emmet BrownVS 4c  
28WesterlationS 4a *106
29ErnieHS 4a  
30Western ManHVS 5a *5
31Cool Canute
VS 4c 4
32Re-mergent, b
E2 5b *1
VD 28
34The South RidgeD *31
E1 5b 22
36Miss Otis Regrets
E2 5c 1
37Sugar MagnoliaHVS 5a *115
38Dolly DaggerE3 5b  
39Penelope Won't Leave the PitstopE5 6b **5
40CorinthE4 5c 2
41TydominHVS 4c **181
 Beyond Here the routes have suffered rockfalls and are unstable 
43 FruichonHS 4b 51
44 Wharf RatE1 5a 2
45 PipsqueakVS 4c 7
46 Artful DodgerE3 5b  
47 Artful DeviationE2 5b  
48 West South West
E1 5b 7
49 The Beast
E1 5b 1
50 Snapping BubbliesE3 5b 35
51CrimtyphonE2 5c 215
52 Every Rose has its ThornE3 5c 6
53 Salt Lake City
E1 5b 6
54 DetroitE2 5b *14
55 Chicago
E3 5b 1
56 CaravanseraiHVS 5a 169
57Second Comings (Start)V4 *1
58 Caravanserai DirectHVS 5b 25
59 AbraxasE3 5b  
60 Easter Risings
E3 5c **10
61 Dreadlock Holiday
E5 5c 5
62 Compass-tures Green
E3 5b  
63 Frog Abuse
XS 5b 2
64 The Entertainer
E3 5b 4
65 PhantasmagoriaE3 6a *1
66 Father Christmas's NightmareE3 5a 2
67 Fisting GrooveHVS 4b 2
68 Compass Mentis
E3 5b 2
69 Loaded DiceE3 5b 1

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