Climbs 67
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

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Dan on Crimtyphon © sarahkaye

Crag features

Sunny and sheltered, with some very serious routes (involving little protection and on unreliable rock) up to 110ft. Routes of note are Sugar Magnolia (HVS 5a) a well protected route following a crack initially with a nice technical top out. Samantha just to the right is another good route (E1 5b). Other routes worth trying include Tydomin (HVS 4c) and Westerlation at S 4a which has limited protection at it's start but is a pleasant route. Crimtyphon is the route of the crag and is very much still worth doing after the rockfalls of 2013/14. Good solid rock and plentify belays if cams are used before topping out.

Following rockfalls in the winters of 2013 and 2014, all routes to the landward side of Crimptyphon, are very serious with poor rock, unreliable protection and loose finishes'.

Approach notes

Head for the southern arm of Bude Haven. Drive along the narrow lane on the S bank of the Bude canal: at the end there is limited parking by a turning circle.
Walk through the white gate, towards the Compass Tower 100m beyond. Walk south along the coast path and then follow a path down to the pebble beach at the southern end of the bay and head back north to the crag. Descent by accessing the ridge of the crag from the Compass Tower is very dangerous following the collapse of the ridge. A low tide walk in from the beach to the north is another option: park as mentioned and walk down the cobbled ramp to the pebble beach and walk around the promontory.

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West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)
North Devon and Cornwall (2000)

Out of print:
The whole of the top of the cliff right of the descent ramp (I.e. Snapping Bubblies and rightwards) is in a very dangerous condition. This section should be avoided.
Mark Kemball - 20/Apr/15
Path along the ridge falling down and treacherous. Belaying on crimptython is probably no longer possible. Won't be long until the whole cliff has fallen down!
Joel Perkin - 22/Mar/15
Crymtyphon pegs in good nick Summer 2008. Top route.
Owen W-G - 03/Mar/09
The routes are pleasant for the grade. Those on the seaward section are solid, those on the right section a little snappy. These routes have almost certainly all been climbed before. The area was used by a local activity centre 20 - 25 years ago who probably placed the bolts found at the top of both pieces of rock and the pegs who's rusted remains can be seen along the bottom of the seaward section.
Mark Kemball - 17/Feb/09
To Matt, Why not ask Leigh McGinley the next time you are in Joe Brown's as it is his route.
bob wightman - 29/Mar/04
Has any one any ideas of the state of the pegs on crymtyphon, i climbed it a few years ago, and they were in poor condition then. what is the situation with re pegging it?
Matt - 20/Aug/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Fin
2 boss VD 5
3 boss boss D 4
4 yes boss VD 7
5 big boss S 4a 8
6 ok boss D 5
7 last price S 4b 6
8 friend price D 4
9 Bossy VD 6
10 A Bit Pricey VD 7
11 Priceless VD 5
12 Bolt the Culm VD 8
13 To Bolt or Not to Bolt.
VD 8
14 A Nest of Bolts.
VD 8
15 Compass Arete f6C ** 2
16 The Grin S 4a * 1
17 Boj Wolb
S 4a 3
18 Wafty Crankers VS 4c * 2
19 Crutch upon Crutch
VS 4c 3
20 Yorkshire Pud
VS 4c 3
21 Inch In, Inch Out
E3 5b *  
22 Wreckin' and Divin' HVS 5a *** 1
23 Dark Attraction E1 5b *  
24 Goats
E8 6c **  
Climb name Grade
25 Full Tilt
E4 6a *  
26 North Ridge
VD 26
27 Emmet Brown VS 4c  
28 Westerlation S 4a * 116
29 Ernie HS 4a  
30 Western Man HVS 5a * 5
31 Cool Canute
VS 4c 4
32 Re-mergent, b
E2 5b * 1
33 Troy
VD 28
34 The South Ridge D * 39
35 Samantha
E1 5b 21
36 Miss Otis Regrets
E2 5c 1
37 Sugar Magnolia HVS 5a * 123
38 Dolly Dagger E3 5b  
39 Penelope Won't Leave the Pitstop E5 6b ** 5
40 Corinth E4 5c 2
41 Tydomin HVS 4c ** 190
42 Fruichon HS 4b 53
43 Wharf Rat E1 5a 2
44 Pipsqueak VS 4c 7
45 Artful Dodger E3 5b  
46 Artful Deviation E2 5b  
47 West South West
E1 5b 7
48 The Beast
E1 5b 1
Climb name Grade
  The top of the cliff in this area is collapsing, take care!
50 Snapping Bubblies E3 5b 35
51 Crimtyphon E2 5c 209
52 Every Rose has its Thorn E3 5c 6
53 Salt Lake City
E1 5b 6
54 Detroit E2 5b * 14
55 Chicago
E3 5b 1
  Beyond Here the routes have suffered rockfalls and are unstable
57 Caravanserai HVS 5a 172
58 Second Comings (Start) V4 6a * 1
59 Caravanserai Direct HVS 5b 25
60 Abraxas E3 5b  
61 Easter Risings
E3 5c ** 11
62 Dreadlock Holiday
E5 5c 7
  The climbs in this area are all loose - approach with care!
64 Compass-tures Green
E3 5b  
65 Frog Abuse
XS 5b 2
66 The Entertainer
E3 5b 4
67 Phantasmagoria E3 6a * 1
68 Father Christmas's Nightmare E3 5a 2
69 Fisting Groove HVS 4b 2
70 Compass Mentis
E3 5b 2
71 Loaded Dice E3 5b 1

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