Climbs 20
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 36m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

An abseil descent is recommended due to the arduous nature of the walk in from the west. For routes near The School Teacher you should consider abseiling off two ropes or scrambling down a little, then aiming for the large boulder that sits at the foot of the area. There is no walk in from the east. 

The climbs at Pyla are quite long – varying from 20 to 50 metres in height. The rock is generally sound, though as this area is less visited than others the usual warnings about loose rock apply.

You should also note that the huge number of prickly gorse bushes in the gorge can make movement quite difficult.

Approach notes

The climbing at Cape Pyla is to be found in a deep gorge close to the seashore itself. These cliffs are reached through the village of Xylofagou and in order to reach them it is necessary to cross a British Army firing range and park up either in or above the far end of a large, disused quarry. From the central roundabout in Xylofagou, turn off towards the large church. Take a left, then right around the church and turn left at the boutique on the corner. Follow the road straight through the housing estate, under the motorway and then straight through onto the firing range. You will now pass a barrier; if red flags are flying the range is in use and you should turn back. Follow the long track through the firing range past several burnt out tanks. Keep going along the track to the mouth of the quarry and turn right. Go up past the right hand side of the quarry towards the sea, rising uphill. Park at the far corner of the quarry fence. The gorge is down the hill towards the sea. Be careful not to fall in it!

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Slipknot
-
VS 4c 3
2 Grand Design E2 5b  
3 Slipped Knot
-
HS 4b 1
4 False Teeth
-
S 4a 4
5 The Bitch
-
S 4a 15
6 Bolder Move
-
S 2
7 Thunder
-
VD 7
Climb name Grade
8 Lightning
-
S 4a 5
9 The Chimney
-
HVD 6
10 Gale Force Winds
-
HS 4b 5
11 Arnhem
-
S 4a ** 12
12 Pulse
-
E4 5c 4
13 Pitchfork Left
-
VD  
14 Pitchfork Right
-
VD  
Climb name Grade
15 Corner Crack
-
VD 2
16 Valentine
-
VD  
17 The Nose
-
VD 6
18 The School Teacher
-
VS 4c *** 6
19 School's Out
-
E5 6b  
20 Staring At The Sun
-
E3 5c  

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