Climbs 118
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 990m a.s.l
Faces SE

Alec Agnew, Cairngorms. © Rhoddy Stewart

Crag features

This high, remote cliff on Ben Macdui holds a lot
of snow until late in the season,
Gives the superb Crystal Ridge (Diff, III) Grey Slab (HS) and
Amethyst Pillar (HVS).
Remote. 

Approach notes

Access tip for summer (from Deeside) - bicycle to Bob Scotts from Linn of Dee, take path up Derry Cairngorm and from saddle south of the summit cone contour round west side of hill to floor of corrie - 2 hours. 

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Red Slabs
2 Rooibos
-
E5 6a  
3 Echinacea
-
E4 6c  
4 Ginseng
-
E4 6c  
5 Ginseng Alternative Start
-
E4 6b  
6 Rainmate (Summer)
-
S  
7 Rainmate (Winter)
-
III  
8 Sundance (Summer)
-
HVS 4c *  
9 Sundance (Winter)
-
III  
10 Umbrella
-
VS 5a  
11 Rain Shadow
-
VS 4b  
  Pinnacle Buttress
13 Pinacle Butress (Summer)
-
M 6
14 Pinnacle Buttress Direct Route (Summer)
-
S 1
15 Pinacle Butress (Winter)
-
II ** 1
16 The Smooth Groove
-
IV 6  
17 The Red Gully
-
I 3
  Grey Man's Crag
19 Grey Mans Crag Girdle
-
HS  
20 Crystal Ridge (Summer)
-
D *** 125
21 Crystal Ridge (Winter)
-
IV 4 ** 6
22 Slab Chimney, Right Branch (Winter)
-
III * 2
23 Slab Chimney, Left Branch (Summer)
-
D  
24 Slab Chimney, Left Branch (Winter)
-
II  
25 Little Gem
-
V 6 *  
26 Rough Diamond
-
V 7  
27 Sapphire
-
E1 5b  
28 The Plumb Line (Summer)
-
HS 1
29 The Plumb Line (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
30 Amethyst Wall (Summer)
-
HVS  
31 Amethyst Wall (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
32 Zircon
-
E2 5c 5
33 Amethyst Pillar
-
HVS 5b *** 51
34 Pilgrims Groove (Summer)
-
HS  
35 Pilgrim's Groove Variation Finish (Summer)
-
VS 4b  
36 Pilgrim's Groove (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
37 Spectre
-
E1 5b  
38 Lucifer Route (Summee)
-
S  
39 Lucifer Route (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
40 Grey Slab (Summer)
-
HS 4b *** 93
41 Grey Slab (Winter)
-
VII 7 ***  
42 Ferlas Mor (Summer)
-
HS ** 10
43 Ferlas Mor (Winter)
-
VII 8 *  
44 Grey Man's Crack
-
E1 5c *  
45 Hanging Dyke (Summer)
-
VD ** 25
46 Hanging Dyke (Winter)
-
V 5 *  
47 Ghost Crack
-
VS 5a * 1
48 Ardath Chimney (Summer)
-
D 2
49 Ardath Chimney (Winter)
-
III ** 9
50 Aurora (Summer)
-
HS 4b 2
51 Aurora (Winter)
-
IV 6 *  
52 Anchor Gully (Summer)
-
M  
53 Anchor Gully (Winter)
-
I 3
  Anchor Buttress
55 Anchor Route (Summer)
-
D  
56 Anchor Route (Winter)
-
III 1
57 Anchor Route Direct (Winter) III 4 * 1
58 Lanyard
-
III  
59 Unchained
-
I  
  Glissade Gully
61 Glissade Buttress
-
II 1
  Snake Ridge Area
63 Rootin' Dootin' Sputin'
-
III  
64 Hackingbush's Horror
-
VS 4b 1
65 Janus Chimney (Summer)
-
VD  
66 Janus Chimney (Winter)
-
III * 1
67 Janus (Summer)
-
D  
68 Janus (Winter)
-
III  
69 Snake Gully
-
II ** 3
70 Snake Ridge (Summer)
-
HS ** 13
71 Snake Ridge (Winter)
-
V 5 * 3
72 The Ladders
-
II * 4
73 Mousehole Gully
-
II 1
74 Narrow Buttress II  
75 Narrow Gully
-
I 7
  Central Buttress
77 Dark Horse
-
HVS 5a  
78 Cherub's Buttress (Summer)
-
VD  
79 Cherub's Buttress (Winter)
-
III  
80 Cherub's Depression
-
II  
81 Flying Ridge (Summer)
-
D  
82 Flying Ridge (Winter)
-
IV 5  
83 Flying Ridge Original (Winter)
-
II  
84 Left-Hand Icefall
-
IV 4 *  
85 The Black Tower (Summer)
-
S * 1
86 The Black Tower (Winter)
-
V 7 **  
87 The Black Tower Variation (Winter)
-
V 5 *  
88 Right-Hand Icefall
-
II **  
89 Flake Buttress (Summer)
-
M ** 7
90 Flake Buttress (Winter)
-
III 3 ***  
91 Flake Buttress Direct (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
92 Precocious Gully
-
III  
  Spider Buttress - Upper Tier
94 Joker's Buttress
-
HVS 5c *  
95 Arachnophobe
-
III 4  
96 Bolero
-
E5 6b * 1
97 The Skater
-
E4 6a * 2
98 The Chebec (Summer)
-
VS 4c *  
99 The Chebec (Winter)
-
VIII 8  
100 Boris
-
IV 6  
101 Flying Saucers
-
E4 5c * 3
102 The Fly (Summer)
-
VS 4c ** 11
103 The Fly (Winter)
-
V 7  
104 The Web (Summer)
-
S  
105 The Web (Winter)
-
IV 4 *  
  Spider Buttress - Lower Tier
107 Ataraxia
-
E6 6b **  
  Terminal Buttress
109 Next To Last
-
HVS 5a  
110 The Swing
-
VS 4b * 4
111 The Slide (Summer)
-
VS 4b 2
112 The Slide (Winter)
-
V 6  
113 Contra Flow
-
E1 5b *  
114 Remontado
-
E6 6a *  
115 The Chute (Summer)
-
HVS 5a * 3
116 The Chute (Winter)
-
VI 7 **  
117 Wee Heavy (Summer)
-
VS 5a  
118 Wee Heavy (Winter)
-
VI 7 **  
119 April Wall (Summer)
-
S 4
120 April Wall (Winter)
-
V 7  
121 Terminal Buttress (Summer)
-
VD * 13
122 Terminal Buttress (Winter)
-
IV 5 1
123 Terminal Wall (Summer)
-
HS 4b * 6
124 Terminal Wall (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
125 The Hin' Most
-
VS 4c *  
  Unconfirmed
127 To a Mouse I 2
128 Flake Buttress III *** 1
129 The Ramp
-
I  

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